Check the fuses to the locks

 

Under-hood fuse 16 (20A) shows it is for door locks.

 

Yes, I was already planning to check the fuse. I did so this afternoon.

The fuse was blown. To test, I swapped in one of the adjacent 20A headlight fuses. The (sort of) good news is that when I pressed the unlock button on the fob, the driver's door unlocked. The not so good news is that the fuse blew immediately when I did that.

That indicates there is a short somewhere in the circuits. I expect it will not be fun to track down the short with my multimeter.

I am familiar with tracing and testing circuits on my '99 Land Rover, but I have a wiring diagram for it. Is a (free) wiring diagram available for download for the 2005 CR-V? Thanks.

 

I have a service manual for the 2002, should be very similar if not identical. I cannot remember where I downloaded it from. I think it was from carmanualsclub.com but I don't even see it there anymore. Either way, here is the page for power door locks. A good starting point may be disconnect the drive door lock actuator, then see if another fuse blows. Could also be some damaged wires in the driver door harness, right where they bend every time the door is opened. Haven't personally seen it on a CRV but have on some other models.

 

There is a link to a service manual in the GEN 2 forum somewhere in a stickie thread.
I think the quickest way to find the issue would be to disconnect the door lock actuator one at a time. While using a test light (home made out of a headlight bulb and some wires) as the fuse. It should not burn out every time you activate the lock. And the when it does work right the light will not be as bright.

My nephew's 2007 CRV had issues with the door lock actuator. So he replaced it with an Amazon special. Turned out the system would blow the fuse when used. I used the home made test light. It turned out the new replacement was faulty. Replaced it again. He did not keep the receipt otherwise he could have gotten the new one with a swap. Live and learn.