Do you have any codes that indicate a faulty ignition coil? If no codes, why go through all that expense just because "someone said so" or "I read it somewhere".

Have owned 4 Honda vehicles; replaced all the plugs myself. I have never replaced any of the ignition coils. Save your $$$$.

 

Do you have any codes that indicate a faulty ignition coil?

<<Rant Mode ON>>

Ignition coil issues (weak spark) will cause the same codes as spark plugs: misfires.

Some cars were fitted with coils that would fail early. (Thinking of the kid's Gen1 Fit...replaced them all at 120K miles) Wide plug gaps result in stress to the coils (takes more 'lectricity to spark). BUT the Iridium plugs that Hondas specifies work so well that gaps don't appreciably widen even after 100,000 miles.

The coils on the CR-Vs K Series engines seem to be robust..that is, until cheap aftermarket coils are installed.

+++++++++

I 'm guessing that many shops want to replace coils just to assure that a return visit doesn't happen. After all, the coils need to be removed to replace plugs. And, the owner is paying. (Sort of like many shops' practice of ALWAYS replacing brake rotors along with new pads, instead of measuring rotor thickness to determine if they are within spec) <<SIGH>>

<<Rant mode OFF>>

 

Coils should be good for the lifetime of the car in normal conditions.

 

On high mileage V-6 transverse mount vehicles; it does make sense to consider replacing at least the rear coils-the labor just to get to the plugs is enough to justify this. HOWEVER; since this is a CRV forum and Honda doesn't offer a v-6 option, the coils and spark plugs are very accessible. IF & when your known good/working coils are replaced; I advise keeping them-if you get a misfire later it's very DIY friendly to swap out the defective one.

 

IF & when your known good/working coils are replaced; I advise keeping them-if you get a misfire later it's very DIY friendly to swap out the defective one.

Just curious, if there is a misfire, how do one diagnose whether it's a coil problem or something else? Thanks!

 

I read somewhere that usually it's a good idea to change Spark Plugs and Ignition Coils at the same time. Is this true? Did you change your Spark Plugs and Ignition Coils at the same time? Why or why not?

Q1: No.
Q2: There is nothing wrong with them.

I see from your posts that you seem to be compiling a database of things that can go sideways and things that should be checked regularly - a great idea.
Like you, I am on this forum mainly to learn from other's experiences (and disasters)
Cheers!

 

I have an RD1 so distributor with cap and rotor. Cap and rotor is a maintenance item, not the whole distributor. I heard from a guy who works at the wrecker (lol) who has an RD1 that the distributor can fail so I picked up a spare on on half-price day. My cap, rotor and wires seem in good condition so I left them be. I did change the spark plugs.

My other car is a 2006 Camry. I also picked up a spare set of OEM coils from the wrecker but I’m not changing my until a problem develops. Chances are the car I took them from has double the mileage of mine anyways. I figure at least they will be good for trouble-shooting if my car ever develops a problem. It’s only 16 years old so may have to wait a decade (knock on wood). I also grabbed spare fuel injectors, starter, alternator. Maybe I’m nuts even at half-price. I’m sure I could invest the $$ in the stock market and instead come out ahead after five years, but hey, it’s peanuts and makes me happy. When I still have the car 20 years from now I will have parts for it lol. My spark plugs aren’t at the service interval yet, but I will replace them before they reach it.

If it ain’t broke, don’t “fix” it. Especially not with non-OEM parts.

 

I would not change the coils unless there was a problem. I especially would stay away from aftermarket coils, small variations in coil QC in aftermarket coils can make you to chase ghost problems.

 

Misfire codes are P030x, where x refers to the cylinder number.

The problem with the misfire code is that it can be caused by plugs, coils, injectors, valves out of adjustment, poor cylinder compression etc.

 

If you think the ignition coil is bad, switch it with a good one to see if the same code exists. Last number of the code is the problem cylinder.

Conversely if the same code number keep appearing, the plug is the culprit.

 

This is only true if you left the spark plugs in longer than they should have been or if any of them look bad. A damaged or worn spark plug will cause a longer duty cycle on the coil and wear it out

 

Why? You just want to spend money unnecessarily? I have 382,000 Mi on my 2014 CRV I've changed spark plugs three times and I've never replaced the ignition coil. If you want to spend your money then spend it on adjusting the backlash out of the valves because that needs to be done every 100,000 miles also.

 

Just curious, what's the brand/model# of the original Ignition Coil that came with the 3rd Gen V (USA version)? Is it Denso? Does it matter that you mix brands (Denso vs NGK) between Coils and Plugs??

Also, what's the recommended intervals of changing Spark Plugs? I assume it's not like the coolant where you first change it at 100,000 miles, then after that 1st change, you change it every 30,000 miles? I guess for Plugs, the reasonable intervals is probably every 100,000 miles? Correct? Thanks!

 

Yeah, 100 to 110K miles is is the recommended replacement interval on the K Series engine.

 

I see a lot of comments on the maintenance of the coils and is fare to say, regular maintenance items are good to do and perform at the recommended intervals to ensure good service from your vehicles. The coil is not a recommended change part at the recommended intervals. If you take a look at the Honda schedule maintenance chart you will find all the required items that everyone should follow to get the most of you Honda vehicle.

 

Dear all, just want to call out that the sticky "Gen3 Service Manual" (which does not allow to reply) may have a mistake. In the service manual, it says that the Spark Plug should be either NGK IZFR6K11 or DENSO: SKJ20DR-M11. However, based on my research and confirmed with NGK website as well as NGK's online support technician, the right NGK plus should be NGK ILZKR7B-11S. Note that "izfr6k11 thread diameter is 14mm, whil ilzkr7b-11s thread diameter is 12mm". Not sure what the thread diameter is for, and whether it matters or not. But it does seem that the ILZKR7B-11S is the right one. Any one know if the ILZKR7B-11S is a replacement or new model of the IZFR6K11? Should we update the "Gen3 Service Manual" sticky to avoid any confusion? Thanks!

 

Thanks, I updated that Service Manual topic to include the information you reported.

 

I just wanted to point out that I ordered and installed NGK IZFR6K11 a few months back and they are 100% the correct ones, just like the manual indicates, so the update in the sticky is not correct.
Edit: I checked with the parts finder on the NGK website. It seems that up to the 2009 CRV (which I have) they recommend the IZFR6K11 and after 2010 they recommend the ones ohman posted (ILZKR7B-11S).
2007-2009 need the 14mm diameter and 2010+ 12mm?

 

By the way, is the Honda Part# 12290-R48-H01 for the 3rd Gen V, if you buy the plugs directly from Honda dealers? Does it look like this?

In this case, it's actually NGK ILZKR7B-11S 5787 but packaged as Honda brand (Honda Part#: 12290-R48-H01). I thought that the OEM plug should be Denso SXU22HCR11S? Is the Denso plugs packaged in Honda branded box and sold as Honda part# 12290-R40-A02 at the US dealer? Can anyone please confirm? Thanks!

 

Dear all,

I noticed that under the Q&A section of OreillyAuto.com, it says that Denso SXU22HCR11S Spark Plugs the country of origin is China. Does this sound right? Is your Denso SXU22HCR11S Spark Plugs made in Japan or China? Thanks!

 

^^ If someone verifies this I will update the sticky topic.


Could the difference be between the 2.4L engines and the 2.0L?

 

My 2009 owners manual specifies NGK IZFR6K11. Same number is listed on Hondapartsconnection website under the Honda p/n.

 

Canadian 11 V 👊 325,000 km/ 201,000 m used rockauto.com since 2011 best $ site for large selection of parts including OE parts the Denso is 58.50 cdn/ 42 US that part here at honda hahaha you dont want to know $ 115 each search net rockauto.com always have a 5% discount code active........ help on some delivery $ if any for USA 2007 V - video below shows bad vibrations youtube.com/watch?v=snlWZmzUFRs (2007 honda crv bad vibrations) he measured and change plugs n coils 4 bad Coils had avg 1st resistance 1.1 2nd resistance 50.5 on auto ohm setting brand new coils same settings 1st resistance 1.1 2nd resistance 8.54 big difference on 2nd resistance vehicle ran fine after swap youtube.com/watch?v=snlWZmzUFRs

unfortunately at your point it could a few
things don't forget regular valve adjustments if you hear a ticking good luck