Check your spare tire or the wheel removing tools jack to see if its loose. Turn or tighten the plastic turn knob on the spare tire. And make sure the tools are not flying around. If that does not fix it go to the dealership and have them reproduce the noise.

 

Thanks for the response. You jarred my memory that I've had to tighten my spare on previous Honda's I've owned. I'll post my findings.

 

i live in hawaii, don't have that issue with my touring, but i've brought my car in for the buzzing sound coming from the dash. As long as you leave a detailed information and exact steps to reproduce the clanking noise they will confirm your findings. I too felt the same that the dealership would say they don't hear anything, but the one I went to confirmed it with me and attempted to fix.

 

I have the same noise. It sounds like it's coming from under the car, not inside. Tools and spare seem to be secure.

 

First, I have had my CR-V since the first of the year. No unusual noises anywhere. Well, almost. There is always a chance there is something amiss. One thing you might want to do is check your tail lights. Yes, the tail lights. As much as I love Honda I have to point out that some of the new CR-Vs have loose tail lights and they could make a noise. Not saying that is what you are hearing but just pointing this out. I might pull mine out and put a small rubber pad under them if I notice them again. Its a very minor thing but a sensitive person can sometimes hear them.

 

Krazeazn, I had a honda odyssey before and it made some noise in the front end I took it there numerous times and the service guys kept sending it back saying they could not reproduce it. I finally did a drive with the service rep and he heard it and got the problem fixed.

I checked my spare and tools and they were tight. The sound kept happening when the left and right of the rear end was not going up simultaneously. The way it was happening and the kind of sound reminded me of the sound my element was making when the sway bar end links were worn. I checked the tightness of the end link on the passenger side and it was almost hand tight. I tightened it somewhere between a 1/2 and full turn and went for a test drive and the sound wasn't there. I'll keep an eye on it for the next couple of days.

If you want to try it yourself, it will take a 14 mm box end and I believe a 4mm hex wrench to keep the bolt from spinning.

 

sorry i'm not sure what you're telling me to do. only know how do basic oil change lol.

 

I drove around quite a bit over some bad roads and never heard the noise again. Cancelled the service appointment so I'm confident tightening the sway bar end links resolved it. I'll post pictures if there is any interest.

 

Yes, please do - pictures are very helpful.

 

I have exact same issue. Mine happens when I drove over 75-80 mph. Will get the dealer to look into it and let you guys know.

 

RE : clunking noise from the rear. Here's a quote from dealer

" When pounding on the rear tires, heard rotor backing plates rattling. Removed rear wheels and repositioned and tightened backing plates"

I test drove after they fixed it and the noise disappeared.
I have no idea where the rotor backing plate is. The tech guy told me it is part of braking system( metal sheet that cover braking system from what I understand ). If any of you guys know what it is, please elaborate.

 

I hd the same thing with the front rotors after the were replaced on my wife's 2004 Pilot. Drove straight back to the Honda dealers shop and it was fixed n 10 minutes.

 

Here is a picture of the nut I tightened.

 

Here is a picture of the nut I tightened.

View attachment 86570

Sure looks like a sway bar mount.
No machine is perfect. Some faults get by, that is why you have a warranty. I worked Lemon Law for a few years. The legal version is simple: The car maker does not warrant that nothing will go wrong with you car, only that should something go wrong that is due to workmanship or materials then they will repair it.

In this case the problem was a simple loose bolt. Maybe a good looking lady walked by and the worker looked away just as he was suppose to be tightening this bolt. Who knows?

 

Thanks, windjunkie!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

That was the thing I was thinking about, by fixing it myself, it never got reported back as a defect.

 

I tightened the nut on the anti-sway bar end-link mounting bolt 3/4 turn and the clunking (more like two 2x4 boards clapping) went away. For two days I ran over every pot hole and bump I could and did not hear the sound. The nut on the driver's side was snug. Question for owners who experienced this noise: Where was your car assembled? Mine was in East Liberty, Ohio.

 

Mine was built in East Liberty as well, and I too have noticed the clunking in the last few weeks. So I got under the car and found the same: the nut on the driver's side was pretty snug, but the one on the passenger side was not. It was pretty hard to get to with my sockets/wrenches and I wasn't able to get the right side tight after 10 minutes of 1/8th turns. I test drove it, and it's still there. It does sound like lumber clapping, so freaking annoying.

I'm probably going to take mine to the dealer.

 

Any such problem should be under warranty... Take it to your dealer

 

I should have mentioned that the nut is a small challenge to get a tool on. I used a swivel-head ratcheting box-end wrench, 14 mm. Worked well.

 

Roostalee. are you holding the bolt with the hex key? If not it will spin all day long. You can also turn the hex key instead of the wrench. The fit is tight and annoying. My crv is from canada and also loose passenger side. Interesting that all reports are on the passenger side. The only reason I didn't take it to the dealer is having to spend half a day there when I fixed it myself in less than 10 minutes. If you don't have the tools or capability, certainly, take it to the dealer.

 

No, I didn't use a hex key and I was wondering if I was making any progress because the nut didn't seem to be getting tighter. So I was probably just spinning the whole thing

I also need to see if I have a swivel adapter so I can also use a socket to get to that bolt.

 

It's a tight fit. Not sure if a universal would fit. I used the box end of a combination wrench and an L shaped hex key. It's been a little while now but I'm pretty sure I turned the hex while holding the combination wrench. The sway bar end link is a ball joint so it can free spin if not held.

 

Hi Windjunkie,

You're right, it wasn't much easier with the universal for the socket wrench--but I did get to where I could turn the nut. The only thing is, I didn't see any place to insert a hex key. I was thinking it would be on the other side of the nut, but that area was just flat...no place to insert the hex.

***Edit: Never mind, after Googling it, the whole thing makes sense to me now. The hex goes in the same side and as you said the other side is a ball joint. So it makes more sense to use a box wrench since a socket would cover that hole where you would insert the hex key.

It's making less noise than before, so I think I made some progress with my clumsy wrenching. I might darken my dealer's door though. Hopefully they won't try to blame it on my U-Haul hitch (the noise was there before it was installed anyway).

 

I didn't have to use anything on the bolt end. Just tighten the nut. A combination wrench will work, but a ratcheting one is better.

 

definitely can be done without the hex key if it is tight enough to begin with. Ratcheting wrench would be better for sure if I had one.

 

I haven't heard any noise from the rear of my 2017 CR-V Touring, but I have another similar issue. When visiting family this past weekend, I had 2 adults sitting in my backseat for the first time. While driving I noticed that the rear end of the vehicle seemed to "slip" a few inches anytime I was above 35 mph. It would slip both directions, and my brother also noticed it as he was sitting in the right rear of the back seat. I stopped the vehicle and checked the lug nuts on all four wheels. They were tight, so I resumed driving and again experienced that swaying "slip" feel. When I dropped everyone off, my wife and I drove home (a 120 mile drive). I did not feel the slip at all on the drive home as the back seat was empty. I am concerned about the possibility of a sway bar or stabilizer bar being loose and possibly leading to losing control of the vehicle. After arriving home, I got a couple of friends to ride in the rear seat while I drove down the highway, and I again felt the "slip" and both of my friends noticed it as well. I am taking it to the Honda Service shop tomorrow. I bought the vehicle in March, and this is the first problem that I have had with the vehicle. Any ideas????

 

Were you in a straight line or a turn when you felt it?

 

For giggles, push on the back quarter panel around the fuel door, find a firm place on the panel to push on and get the car moving laterally. You should be able to get the car oscillating sideways. Most of movement should be from the side walls of the tires. You shouldn't hear or feel any looseness. If you have another car to compare to that would be good. This is kind of like bouncing a corner of the car checking for a bad shock absorber.

 

Add me to the list of us who have had the clunking noise. It was a subtle noise, but was audible when backing out of my steep driveway and over speedbumps.

The nut on the rear, passenger-side sway bar ball joint end was not tighted down, and a gap was visible between the nut and the sway bar. I was not able to tighten the nut with a ratcheting combo wrench alone, so had to use a hex key with the wrench to get it snug. I checked the driver's side too, but no tightening was necessary there. So far it appears to be quiet again.

Thanks to whoever figured this out above, as it saved me a morning at the dealership!

 

Has anyone noticed clunking noises in the rear of your crv?

I have the same noise. It sounds like it's coming from under the car, not inside. Tools and spare seem to be secure.

I have exact same issue. Mine happens when I drove over 75-80 mph. Will get the dealer to look into it and let you guys know.

Had my 2017 in for its first oil change today, and asked them to check mine. Clunking in the rear over speedbumps and the like. It was a loose sway bar linkage in my case as well. The service writer told me it was a full two turns too loose. I hope these sorts of issues get fed back to the factory.

Add me to the list of us who have had the clunking noise. It was a subtle noise, but was audible when backing out of my steep driveway and over speedbumps.

To those of you who have reported this issue... Can you list where your CR-V was manufactured?

 

Mine is canadian.

Slowspark you're welcome

 

I have heard the same thing when I was riding in the rear passenger seat. The noise canceling may mask it from the drivers seat. Appointment tomorrow.

 

Did your June appointment remedy the noise problem? If so, what was the fix? Thanks

 

In the factory's defense, I have replaced sway bar links myself, and had them need tightening a few months later. So, even if the factory double-checked them as I do, "Stuff Happens".

PS, those who DIY, should inject a synthetic grease into those boots (and the steering links and ball joints). Use a needle attachment on your grease gun. That way, these points will be tight & quiet forever!