Has anyone noticed clunking noises in the rear of your crv? Mine has about 2000 miles and I noticed a clunking on the right side rear the last couple of days. It's most noticeable when driving on the freeway and hitting a hole (easy to do in hawaii). Also happens on rough even roads. The last condition is least noticeable driving over speed bumps with only the passenger side. Made an appointment at the dealership but hate when they say I don't hear anything.
windjunkie
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I tightened the nut on the anti-sway bar end-link mounting bolt 3/4 turn and the clunking (more like two 2x4 boards clapping) went away. For two days I ran over every pot hole and bump I could and did not hear the sound. The nut on the driver's side was snug. Question for owners who experienced this noise: Where was your car assembled? Mine was in East Liberty, Ohio.
Mine was built in East Liberty as well, and I too have noticed the clunking in the last few weeks. So I got under the car and found the same: the nut on the driver's side was pretty snug, but the one on the passenger side was not. It was pretty hard to get to with my sockets/wrenches and I wasn't able to get the right side tight after 10 minutes of 1/8th turns. I test drove it, and it's still there. It does sound like lumber clapping, so freaking annoying.
I'm probably going to take mine to the dealer.
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Roostalee. are you holding the bolt with the hex key? If not it will spin all day long. You can also turn the hex key instead of the wrench. The fit is tight and annoying. My crv is from canada and also loose passenger side. Interesting that all reports are on the passenger side. The only reason I didn't take it to the dealer is having to spend half a day there when I fixed it myself in less than 10 minutes. If you don't have the tools or capability, certainly, take it to the dealer.
No, I didn't use a hex key and I was wondering if I was making any progress because the nut didn't seem to be getting tighter. So I was probably just spinning the whole thing
I also need to see if I have a swivel adapter so I can also use a socket to get to that bolt.
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It's a tight fit. Not sure if a universal would fit. I used the box end of a combination wrench and an L shaped hex key. It's been a little while now but I'm pretty sure I turned the hex while holding the combination wrench. The sway bar end link is a ball joint so it can free spin if not held.
I haven't heard any noise from the rear of my 2017 CR-V Touring, but I have another similar issue. When visiting family this past weekend, I had 2 adults sitting in my backseat for the first time. While driving I noticed that the rear end of the vehicle seemed to "slip" a few inches anytime I was above 35 mph. It would slip both directions, and my brother also noticed it as he was sitting in the right rear of the back seat. I stopped the vehicle and checked the lug nuts on all four wheels. They were tight, so I resumed driving and again experienced that swaying "slip" feel. When I dropped everyone off, my wife and I drove home (a 120 mile drive). I did not feel the slip at all on the drive home as the back seat was empty. I am concerned about the possibility of a sway bar or stabilizer bar being loose and possibly leading to losing control of the vehicle. After arriving home, I got a couple of friends to ride in the rear seat while I drove down the highway, and I again felt the "slip" and both of my friends noticed it as well. I am taking it to the Honda Service shop tomorrow. I bought the vehicle in March, and this is the first problem that I have had with the vehicle. Any ideas????
Hi Windjunkie,
You're right, it wasn't much easier with the universal for the socket wrench--but I did get to where I could turn the nut. The only thing is, I didn't see any place to insert a hex key. I was thinking it would be on the other side of the nut, but that area was just flat...no place to insert the hex.
***Edit: Never mind, after Googling it, the whole thing makes sense to me now. The hex goes in the same side and as you said the other side is a ball joint. So it makes more sense to use a box wrench since a socket would cover that hole where you would insert the hex key.
It's making less noise than before, so I think I made some progress with my clumsy wrenching. I might darken my dealer's door though. Hopefully they won't try to blame it on my U-Haul hitch (the noise was there before it was installed anyway).
Were you in a straight line or a turn when you felt it?
It was noticed when I was in straight stretches of highway. I didn't notice it in curves, but the back and forth sideways "slip" was noted on straight road.
For giggles, push on the back quarter panel around the fuel door, find a firm place on the panel to push on and get the car moving laterally. You should be able to get the car oscillating sideways. Most of movement should be from the side walls of the tires. You shouldn't hear or feel any looseness. If you have another car to compare to that would be good. This is kind of like bouncing a corner of the car checking for a bad shock absorber.
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definitely can be done without the hex key if it is tight enough to begin with. Ratcheting wrench would be better for sure if I had one.
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Add me to the list of us who have had the clunking noise. It was a subtle noise, but was audible when backing out of my steep driveway and over speedbumps.
The nut on the rear, passenger-side sway bar ball joint end was not tighted down, and a gap was visible between the nut and the sway bar. I was not able to tighten the nut with a ratcheting combo wrench alone, so had to use a hex key with the wrench to get it snug. I checked the driver's side too, but no tightening was necessary there. So far it appears to be quiet again.
Thanks to whoever figured this out above, as it saved me a morning at the dealership!
The nut on the rear, passenger-side sway bar ball joint end was not tighted down, and a gap was visible between the nut and the sway bar. I was not able to tighten the nut with a ratcheting combo wrench alone, so had to use a hex key with the wrench to get it snug. I checked the driver's side too, but no tightening was necessary there. So far it appears to be quiet again.
Thanks to whoever figured this out above, as it saved me a morning at the dealership!
To those of you who have reported this issue... Can you list where your CR-V was manufactured?
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Did your June appointment remedy the noise problem? If so, what was the fix? Thanks
Yes. Tightened the sway bar nut.
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