You are best-off looking in the two areas below, or Google performance mods on the K Series engines.
Not that many owners here have wanted Turbos.

Do-It-Yourself / Mods

Custom built, user-handmade & constructed mods, & adapting accessories not made for the CR-V.

www.crvownersclub.com

Performance Modifications

Aftermarket performance mods & tuning.

www.crvownersclub.com

+++++++++++++++++

An easy handling mod is to bolt-on the larger sway bars from an Element.

 

I first read you were building a sleeper and thought, why do you need a turbo? Surely just a platform and a roof net would be more appropriate...

And then I realised you mean a different kind of sleeper than I had in mind...

 

Hi guys 👋🏾,
I have 2004 k24a1 CR-V and want to build it to be a proper sleeper.
Any of you guys know any bolt-on turbo kits for the CR-V ?
Please do reply if you have any other ideas?

Might also check any Honda Element site. That generation of CRV & Element, once the outer skin is removed, are almost identical.

 

Hi guys 👋🏾,
I have 2004 k24a1 CR-V and want to build it to be a proper sleeper.
Any of you guys know any bolt-on turbo kits for the CR-V ?
Please do reply if you have any other ideas?

I have a 2004 EX and I am going down the same road as you friend. I have not done anything yet, only collected some parts and information. Let me tell you what I've gathered.

The K24A1 is actually a great starting platform for a turbo K series build. It's closest relative is the k24a2 from the TSX. You can basically go down 3 paths here, they are all good and plenty.

Option 1: Bone stock internals with turbo manifold, intercooler, exhaust, tune. You can get around 400HP MAX this way. That's what someone did here. NO exhaust VTEC, but the head can be ported/polished. apparently the A1 head flows very well already. CR is 9.6:1 (good for boost)

Option 2: OEM+ Honda ONLY. k20a2 oil pump, k24a2 head/k20a2 head, Stock or TSX pistons, RBB/RBC manifold. Powerband depends on what parts you use. I am going this route. I have a k24a2 RBB-3 Head and i am going to slap it on my stock block. I won't be going past 8,000 (ever lol), and the k24a1 has enough torque at the low end anyways. The k20a2 oil pump allows you to rev higher without the balancing shafts (extra moving parts). Every other k24 block besides the A1 requires trimming of the oil pump (not that hard but a pain nonetheless). Higher boost/RPM builds will lean towards you using k20 parts for the head. RBC manifold gives more power at the high end, but the RBB has move torque at the low end. in basic terms k20 for high end, k24 for low (in respect to each other). CR varies on the pistons/head you use. For a car like the CR-V, the lower spec rotating assembly is just fine.

Option 3: Fully built internals. Here you are only reusing your bare block. The bore and stroke is the same, the block is almost identical except that the A1 is missing oil squirters below the pistons. They are used to provide lubrication at high RPMs, but create can turbulence at higher RPMS (above 8,000). They won't benefit a turbo build using forged pistons anyways, and some high HP builds will intentionally block them off. They will intentionally choose A1 blocks for this (also for the oil pump fitment).

Like i said i haven't done anything yet but I'll post when I do.

 

I have a 2004 EX and I am going down the same road as you friend. I have not done anything yet, only collected some parts and information. Let me tell you what I've gathered.

The K24A1 is actually a great starting platform for a turbo K series build. It's closest relative is the k24a2 from the TSX. You can basically go down 3 paths here, they are all good and plenty.

Option 1: Bone stock internals with turbo manifold, intercooler, exhaust, tune. You can get around 400HP MAX this way. That's what someone did here. NO exhaust VTEC, but the head can be ported/polished. apparently the A1 head flows very well already. CR is 9.6:1 (good for boost)

Option 2: OEM+ Honda ONLY. k20a2 oil pump, k24a2 head/k20a2 head, Stock or TSX pistons, RBB/RBC manifold. Powerband depends on what parts you use. I am going this route. I have a k24a2 RBB-3 Head and i am going to slap it on my stock block. I won't be going past 8,000 (ever lol), and the k24a1 has enough torque at the low end anyways. The k20a2 oil pump allows you to rev higher without the balancing shafts (extra moving parts). Every other k24 block besides the A1 requires trimming of the oil pump (not that hard but a pain nonetheless). Higher boost/RPM builds will lean towards you using k20 parts for the head. RBC manifold gives more power at the high end, but the RBB has move torque at the low end. in basic terms k20 for high end, k24 for low (in respect to each other). CR varies on the pistons/head you use. For a car like the CR-V, the lower spec rotating assembly is just fine.

Option 3: Fully built internals. Here you are only reusing your bare block. The bore and stroke is the same, the block is almost identical except that the A1 is missing oil squirters below the pistons. They are used to provide lubrication at high RPMs, but create can turbulence at higher RPMS (above 8,000). They won't benefit a turbo build using forged pistons anyways, and some high HP builds will intentionally block them off. They will intentionally choose A1 blocks for this (also for the oil pump fitment).

Like i said i haven't done anything yet but I'll post when I do.

Thanks brother , Please do notify when you start the build.!

 

Check out the drifting communities too, loads of power mods going on over there on the K. Drifted.com to start off with etc.