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Update:
Rear right wheel bearing was replaced(not speed sensor as I was told at first). So far one week later no lights.
Just checking to see if all is still good. Everything lit up on me tonight when I left an appointment. I was a nervous wreck driving home. AWD, Hill assist, brake, emission, everything that could light up did. Was trying to find out what to have checked. Sorry you had to go thru so many things, but thank you for sharing all of your ups and downs to help us.
 
Just checking to see if all is still good. Everything lit up on me tonight when I left an appointment. I was a nervous wreck driving home. AWD, Hill assist, brake, emission, everything that could light up did. Was trying to find out what to have checked. Sorry you had to go thru so many things, but thank you for sharing all of your ups and downs to help us.
Start with your battery. It may or may not be the cause (it quite often is), but it is the easiest thing to check and confirm/eliminate.
 
Start with your battery. It may or may not be the cause (it quite often is), but it is the easiest thing to check and confirm/eliminate.
Thank you. Battery was ok. Disconnected negative cable to see if it would reset. No luck. Trip to dealership. Right at $600. They said wave radar and brake co2 sensors were out. Got back today. We shall see if that works. Sure hope so. Thank you for replying
 
Has anyone had any luck with these lights long term without having anything expensive done? Mine started in August of 2020. Replaced the battery, all fine until January. On for a few days, then off, this continued for about 3 weeks. Had it diagnosed at Honda, they said fuel injectors, $1,600! Seriously, 2017 and 55,000 miles, that's ridiculous! A mechanic friend of mine suggested fuel injector cleaner with next two gas fills. Put first one in, lights came on briefly for about 1 hour then lights turned off. It's been almost a week now with no lights. I did use premium gas this last time and turned off the Econ mode, seems I've had that set for the last few months. Shouldn't have anything to do with it, but thought I'd give it a shot. Any updates from those with the same issue?
 
Has anyone had any luck with these lights long term without having anything expensive done? Mine started in August of 2020. Replaced the battery, all fine until January. On for a few days, then off, this continued for about 3 weeks. Had it diagnosed at Honda, they said fuel injectors, $1,600! Seriously, 2017 and 55,000 miles, that's ridiculous! A mechanic friend of mine suggested fuel injector cleaner with next two gas fills. Put first one in, lights came on briefly for about 1 hour then lights turned off. It's been almost a week now with no lights. I did use premium gas this last time and turned off the Econ mode, seems I've had that set for the last few months. Shouldn't have anything to do with it, but thought I'd give it a shot. Any updates from those with the same issue?
Some have reported success with the injector cleaner, others have not had the success.

Some have reported it worked for a short time. It is likely worth trying.

Others have asked Honda for assistance and have been given varying amounts of financial help. Also worth trying.

By the way, WELCOME!!!
 
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Thanks for the welcome! Love my CRV, but so frustrated with this! Runs absolutely fine regardless of the lights. Hope I'm not harming anything by continuing to drive it. When asking "Honda" for assistance, who was asked. My dealership said they tried under the warranty and only a small amount part was covered under the power train warranty. Thanks!
 
Same issue happened to me with all dash lights going on twice now, car only has 10k on it so I figured there shouldn’t be any major problems. First time it was during the stay at home orders where I only moved the car once a week. I guess the battery voltage got low from letting it sit but the car was able to start with no problem so I didn’t think it was the battery. With all the lights on it looked like a serious problem and I was afraid to drive the car so I decided I wanted to bring it to the dealer but the messed up part was dealer claimed to be backed up due to Covid and wouldn’t see me for 2 months ridicules! Am I not supposed to drive for 2 months? So I had to figure out the problem myself. After driving the car for a few long trips I figured the battery charged back up and the lights went away. 1 year later problem is back. This time I replaced the battery with a top of the line optima yellow top and problem went away right away. Hope it stays that way. In conclusion I concur check the battery first. This needs to be a recall, it makes no sense all lights should come on for a low battery. They need to fix the firmware to display proper errors. The computer tech should be getting better with better more precise error messages but instead things are getting worse.
 
This needs to be a recall, it makes no sense all lights should come on for a low battery. They need to fix the firmware to display proper errors. The computer tech should be getting better with better more precise error messages but instead things are getting worse.
The problem is simple to understand, and no recall effort or design change can address this: A failing or low battery will mean not enough voltage and current are supplied to all the various electronic systems when you first enter your vehicle and power it up.

Your vehicle is as much a container of different computers, all required to work together in harmony, as it is a motor vehicle. And when there is disharmony between systems.. error alerts cascade across systems because they are all interdependent with each other. And while I agree with you that computer tech should get better over time, and does, modern motor vehicles are on very aggressive innovation curves now days, with much of it being electronics.. lots and lots of electronics. Further... the electronics is not just one or two computers... but a whole collection of distributed electronic systems each with their own specific purpose and function. Happily, most glitches or issues that escape to the field these days in modern motor vehicles can also be addressed with a software update rather than a need to change physical parts.

There are over 200 different sensors in a gen5 CRV, and dozens of different electronic systems as well. These all perform a power-on self test when your vehicle comes out of sleep mode when you open your drivers side door, sit and then push the start button. They need proper battery power in order to do so. Deny them proper power and they will behave and appear as though they have gone insane.

If one or more systems does not receive sufficient power.. it will begin to push error alerts across the CANbus (the electronic information highway all the systems use to talk to each other and interact). This will often cause a cascade of errors in the vehicle... because... garbage in = garbage out and there are a lot of systems all paying attention and seeing garbage. So.. alert lights go on for each system.. with the main goal of convincing the owner there is an issue that needs attention and should not be ignored.

Keep in mind... alert lights on your dash are NOT meant to be specific diagnostic indicators. That is what the OBDII port is for, as you can attach a reader to it and readout a wide range of actual specific error codes and system status that way. OBDII does not capture every error in a vehicle though.. but any serious errors should pop one or more codes.
 
Just a follow up here. After replacing my battery, the warning lights were off for a few weeks and returned, so I guess that wasn’t the issue. I finally caved and bought it to the dealer. They said it was the fuel injectors(sounds like a common issue and diagnosis from reading other threads here) and they replaced that under warranty. My car only has 14k miles on it, hard to believe those are bad or gunked up already, but I do drive very little and the car is 4.5 yrs old. Of course the dealer also swindled me on a throttle body and fuel injector service charging me $230 for that and saying it wasn’t covered under warranty. I couldn’t say no since I didn’t want them to tell me the dash light problem wasn’t fixed because that stuff was dirty and they promised me things would be fixed and I could bring it back if any more issues. Time will tell if it’s really fixed. This all might have been avoided if I tried a few bottles of fuel injector cleaner first. I’ve been putting regular 87 mobil gas, my MPG hasn’t been great since owning the car new, get around 16-19mpg in heavy city driving. I think I’m going to switch to premium gas going forward to avoid any of these issues and maybe my MPG will probably improve a bit too. It probably won’t cost me that much more since I drive very little.
 
Just a follow up here. After replacing my battery, the warning lights were off for a few weeks and returned, so I guess that wasn’t the issue. I finally caved and bought it to the dealer. They said it was the fuel injectors(sounds like a common issue and diagnosis from reading other threads here) and they replaced that under warranty. My car only has 14k miles on it, hard to believe those are bad or gunked up already, but I do drive very little and the car is 4.5 yrs old. Of course the dealer also swindled me on a throttle body and fuel injector service charging me $230 for that and saying it wasn’t covered under warranty. I couldn’t say no since I didn’t want them to tell me the dash light problem wasn’t fixed because that stuff was dirty and they promised me things would be fixed and I could bring it back if any more issues. Time will tell if it’s really fixed. This all might have been avoided if I tried a few bottles of fuel injector cleaner first. I’ve been putting regular 87 mobil gas, my MPG hasn’t been great since owning the car new, get around 16-19mpg in heavy city driving. I think I’m going to switch to premium gas going forward to avoid any of these issues and maybe my MPG will probably improve a bit too. It probably won’t cost me that much more since I drive very little.
I'm in Brooklyn also but getting 25 to 27 mpg going to and from Manhattan. Using regular 87
 
Now I’m feeling a bit like I got a lemon. To be fair though a drive from Brooklyn to Manhattan does consist of half highway so usually my mileage is a bit higher with mixed driving. I’m mostly doing short trips locally, a lot of stop lights and some time spent looking for parking. Still I feel like the mileage I’ve been getting should be a bit better considering my car is like new with low miles. I hope I will see some improvements with the new fuel injectors.
 
This is so frustrating. All of my warning lights are coming on. I can’t reset them. I took it to the Honda dealership I bought it from. They said nothing was wrong. There were no stores codes, lights went off. Next day, I started my car and lights come on.
I bought a code reader yesterday and plugged in, it came back it was a cam shaft sensor? Ive contacted Honda corporate and they say they are trying to resolve the issue. Still no answers. I spoke with a law firm that may be filing a class action because he said he gets so many calls every day regarding this issue.
anybody have any info or suggestions or a fix?
thank you
Same problem from Puerto Rico. I took my Honda to the dealer and they scanned it and told me that it could be the engine gas injectors. But this is no covered by the 5 years engine and transmission warranty. They first try to fix the recalls but after a couple of days all the sensors came back on. Very frustrating that Honda will not cover this problem with the warranty!
 
Thanks for the welcome! Love my CRV, but so frustrated with this! Runs absolutely fine regardless of the lights. Hope I'm not harming anything by continuing to drive it. When asking "Honda" for assistance, who was asked. My dealership said they tried under the warranty and only a small amount part was covered under the power train warranty. Thanks!
The injectors will very likely get worse. Best to have them replaced. They are NOT covered under the powertrain warranty, they are covered by the emissions warranty. 13 states in the US actually follow Californias emission laws and warranty requirements, and they could have the injectors replaced for free. Same for anyone with a HondaCare extended service policy.

Note: a number of owners who have faced this same issue, were successful in getting Honda Corporate to cover the parts (which is the biggest expense) and the owner paid dealer labor (which was around $550 on average if I recall correctly). So I would encourage you to at least pursue this as it may save you close to a thousand dollars.
 
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