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Dura-don't last water pump. PSA.

8.9K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  agentl074  
#1 · (Edited)
I installed a duralast water pump at 199,631 miles 9/22/19 and at 228,713 miles, there's leakage from the weep hole. I've heard the joke dura-don't last, but the name lives up to its expectations. I got to monkey around on another weekend afternoon and install a new water pump.

Should I go AISIN or just spend the money and buy it from Honda? I'm also going to replace the thermostat.

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edit:typos
 
#6 ·
As far as I know, AISIN is the one that supplies OEM. Well at least for the older ones I've had.

Make sure you get an OEM thermostat, don't cheap out on that. I've seen many aftermarket ones crap out waaaaaaay earlier than genuine one would

When you say OEM gasket, you mean, don't use the one that comes with the AISIN water pump?
 
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#3 ·
I bought an Aisin from Rock Auto for my '09 and only replaced it since I was going on a long road trip and had some noise from that general area, and wanted to address it. Aisin is one of Honda's suppliers, so that would be the best choice.

Duralast for the most part is crap. I've had to buy one of their spark plug coils go bad in a matter of minutes. Brake pads are terrible quality and don't fit the calipers. Just trash.
 
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#5 ·
It's hard to tell--it may or may not be the same. Rock Auto's listing only shows two products where they specify if it's a Japan vehicle or not.

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Yet when I go to a Honda parts site, it only shows one water pump for a 2009 CR-V. (I've seen instances where some parts listings show two parts, but this isn't one of them.)

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When I look up the CR-V, it doesn't specify a US or Japan build. My gut instinct says it's probably the same water pump, but I've also been known to be wrong before.
 
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#7 ·
For those that have replaced their water pump, did you use medium strength thread locker on your bolts?

I did not when I installed this dura-don't last water pump, instead, I used a water pump gasket in addition to the rubber gasket(I know it's over kill), but I feel like the RTV did it's job on holding as seal. When I took the above photo, a few of the bolts were loose( I used anti-seize on the threads). I know I tightened a little more than 8ft lbs because I was using a longer 3/8" drive ratchet.

Any advice is much appreciated it.

Thanks
 
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#8 ·
As I've mentioned it elsewhere, I'll paste in the factory service manual pages here. The manual does not specify using thread locker or anti-seize on the bolts (in fact, anti-seize will change the torque spec and make it easier to strip the threads), and shows only using the o-ring to seal the pump to the block. The o-ring is a soft material, so it does not take much torque to flatten it out to make it seal properly. And due to the aluminum engine block, the torque spec for the bolts is only 8.8 lbf/ft. I have found that tightening them down until they are snug is sufficient.


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#9 ·
Some parts are very hard to find -- even dealerships have to order aftermarket -- for some parts (which are actually produced by the same company [in some cases]). NAPA and a few other retailers stock OE spec parts -- but you have to make sure that it lines up with your VIN. I wouldn't trust a part that is not certified to meet/exceed OE specifications.
 
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