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Electric Problem

4.6K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  Navy03  
#1 ·
Recently driving my 2003 CRV LX 2WD down the road. Headlights started becoming weak, tape player stopped working, windshield wipers moved slow on the highest setting, speedometer/rpm and gas gauge dropped to zero. Seemingly the power was dying in my car. However it still kept moving. I pulled over. Turned off the car. 5 minutes later. Started it up and kept driving with just headlights. Everything went fine. Check engine light has been on for a-few days. Battery light seems to come on and off randomly. I checked the battery with a multi-meter. 12.6v cold. 11.6v approximately while running with headlights and radio/ heat blowing. I think its the alternator. The alternator looks pretty rough. But I am not sure. Any input would be appreciated.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Do you want test the alternator first or just replace it?
I can say that not much is easy to do on this vehicle
The alternator on my 2007 is under the power steering pump
The refrigerant lines and other things might be in the way.
And, just getting the serpentine loose is tough.
And getting it back on was near impossible without help.
Note: Disconnect the battery before doing electrical work

Look on youtube search "2003 CRV alternator replacement"
 
#3 ·
After you first start the car immediately check voltage at battery. These damn things have a "smart" charging system, that most vehicles have now that load and unload the alt. based on demand. It's called a dual mode charging system. There is a load detector that is part of the system that could be the problem, or it could be the alternator, or as was my case, a broken signal wire for the field rotor. At 11.6, the alternator is not charging anything and eventually your battery will die. I highly suggest a serpentine belt removal tool. you can rent one or just buy one, they are like $15. I took the 14mm socket and cut it down a bit to fit between the strut tower and the tensioner. PS pump has two bolts to remove and swing out of the way. Might be a good time to replace the VVT screen/gasket too and the serpentine belt.
 
#4 ·
I have some of the same problems, it seems easy to do the testing, but when you realize you have to dismantle the entire engine bay just to get a look at the alternator, it becomes a different kind of job...

Have you charged the battery with a battery charger, or does it just "keep running"? It will eventually stop if the charging circuit is broken, only diesel cars can run completely without power. Also running with very low power could damage a lot of things in newer cars.

Does the battery light turn on at low rpm and off at high rpm? This is the case with my car, it seems strange to me that it would turn off at high rpm unless there were some power coming from the alternator, which is why I am curious.
 
#5 ·
Does the battery light turn on at low rpm and off at high rpm? This is the case with my car, it seems strange to me that it would turn off at high rpm unless there were some power coming from the alternator, which is why I am curious.
how is your serpentine belt? that sounds indicative of an alternator that is failing and at low rpm cannot produce enough current. I agree, the alternator plug is a PITA to get to to test control wires. I traced those wires back to the plug at the center radiator support and tested there. I suggest getting the meter and seeing your battery voltage at idle, and again at like 2500rpm to compare. make sure you do this with headlights and blower on high.
 
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