In my experience dealing with exhaust system issues, by the time I've bought the clamp on flanges, donuts, clamps, hangers, pipe pieces, and adapters, I'd spent more than getting a shop to do it. It's the only auto work I'll generally farm out because it's often cheaper, and always faster. If I have to do a cat back system I'll price out the parts, but for repairs, nah. I hate exhausts!

 

Good call, I think I’ll just leave it as is because it’s much quieter than before. Also if I start touching more fasteners I don’t want them to break. At idle it sounds like a normal car but when pressing the gas the leak becomes more apparent.

 

I bought a flux core welder from Harbor Freight along with a welding mask and gloves.
The exhaust pipe that goes over the right rear axle rusted out.
So got pipe coupler and tack welded the pipe in place.
Then used clamps to seal the deal. Could not get the welder to go all the way around the pipe.
But, when sanding down the pipe to insure the welder would work, I saw solid pipe (not just rust)
So the clamps should work. It really is hard to work under the car when only using floor jacks.

 

I bought a flux core welder from Harbor Freight along with a welding mask and gloves.
The exhaust pipe that goes over the right rear axle rusted out.
So got pipe coupler and tack welded the pipe in place.
Then used clamps to seal the deal. Could not get the welder to go all the way around the pipe.
But, when sanding down the pipe to insure the welder would work, I saw solid pipe (not just rust)
So the clamps should work. It really is hard to work under the car when only using floor jacks.

Good idea but it’s not going to work for me right now. You said it perfectly, it’s hard working on the floor. Can’t imagine welding like that. Thanks

They do make split-flange repair and hardware kits so you can add a new flanges. I also agree with DerrickT.

I was going to use those but the front cat is very hard to access. With the 4WD models there’s almost no working room. If I could do your option I would. Thanks

Thanks for the tips everyone. I’m just going to leave it as is. Don’t wanna pay too much to get it fixed and don’t have the equipment to do it myself. The car is much quieter now that I’ve fixed the major exhaust leak at the rear cat. You can only hear it a bit now when pressing the gas, otherwise at idle it sounds like nothing is wrong.

 

They do make split-flange repair and hardware kits so you can add a new flanges. I also agree with DerrickT.

 

You can get a threaded stud out by drilling and a stud extractor.The extractor is harden steel with a tapered left hand worm to
a point.This is screwed into the hole in the stud an thus screws the stud out of the hole.WD-40 and brake fluid having been
applied.Heat can aiso be applied as long as well away from fuel tank or fuel lines.Use a centre punch to mark centre of stud
before drilling.Extractor should be small enough to follow stud through threaded hole.

 

Jumping on this with the same issue. My girlfriends 2011 crv ex-l awd model has a similar issue. The front cat flange has one spring bolt holding it together, throwing some cat efficiency codes once in a while. I ordered new spring bolts and the donut, but when I looked at it a second time, the only way to get to drill out the broken spring bolt is through the access hole in the casting. Is there a way to use a split flange to repair without drilling out the old fastener? Am I better off removing the converter off the back of the engine and drilling the fasteners out on the bench? Has anyone successfully drilled out that spring bolt through the access hole? This is going to be a driveway job so any advice is welcome.

 

Did you try penetrating oil and a ratchet wrench to un-bolt it?
My advice is to wear eye protection while working under the vehicle
Did you inspect it? Are the bolts threaded into nuts behind the flange?
Or are they threaded into the flange? If threaded into nuts then cut the bolts
And the rest of it should come out with little taps with a hammer??
If threaded into flange then cut it and see if your split flange will go around the old flange??
Or cut off the old flange and weld new flange on??

 

Just incase anyone else comes across the issue i'm having from before, I did my repair today.
I drilled out the remaining portion of the spring bolt through the access hole in the subframe portion. It was difficult to line up but once I applied any pressure, it popped right out. Unfortunately it was because the weld nut let go. I spent way more time than I'm willing to admit to try to thread a nut onto the new spring bolt, but it was futile. After looking at the old spring bolt and the remains of the broken one, one was clearly much newer than the other. So whoever fixed it last, just replaced the donut and the one spring bolt that was accessible and called it a day. So... it's back on the road, with one bolt and a dream. Here's hoping I get a couple of years out of it before I have to do it again