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Honda CR-V 2012, 2013, 2014 projector headlight conversion

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23K views 23 replies 10 participants last post by  TheDarkKnight  
#1 · (Edited)
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To start off with you’ll need
(2015 touring projector headlight)
(2015 cr-v headlight brackets)
(18 gauge wire)
(soldering iron and shrink tubing)
(2 female 9005 HB3 head light harness)
(2 female H11 head light harness or Innovited HID XENON 55W Conversion Kit H11)
(Electrical tape)
(Floral wire)
(Zip ties)
(2015 Honda CR-V Front Grille)
(6189-0887 female connection (Blinker) or
7443 7440 turn signal socket harness)
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Optional: 6189-0968 female connection (DRL )
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Optional: 2015 Honda CR-V front bumper

Step 1) look up video on CR-V grille and bumper removal
2) You will not need that top plastic piece that sits on top of the radiator, it creates clearance issue for grille, next take off and cut at the line on side radiator plastic covers also clearance issue for headlights
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3) Take off electrical tape exposing wiring harness on headlights, cut and solder them. For my CR-V (black) is negative and will have to be shared,
(Brown and Green) (H11)low beam, (White and Yellow) (9005)high beam, Double check this by using multimeter if possible
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4) The blinker has 3 wires that need extending (Yellow) positive, (black) negative
(brown and green) flasher AKA Blinker
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Optional: DRL the 2 wires furthest away connected on the lightbulb can be used to run the DRL, they will only turn on if you have your lights on “not really DRL” I know it’s more like “NRL” still improves visibility and looks beautiful Optional: theoretically you could also add a spliced High beam wire to make them DRL when (auto) and (on) but I do not know if it will all work together just fine or if it will burn out if lights are on and you flash high beams I doubt it but still, didn’t figure this out until after I was done, if you just wanna be safe just wire them up exactly like in the picture it’s the same on both sides, besides it’s a lot easier and probably won’t burn them out as quickly since they’re on less you also you don’t need them if you have LED fog lights and LED high beams for improved visibility in low light situation they just look nice, if curious (Yellow) positive (Black)negative
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5) Run blinker wires up and re-wrap all the electric wires, wrap the wires first then continue wrapping on the wire loom, reuse two of the clips and use a zip tie on the middle, the end result looks OEM and well protected
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6) some custom work on bumper cut and smooth out flat tabs ( do not cut hole that screw on bottom of the grille) use floral wire on all holes to hug it to the bumper do not over tight, A lot easier considering the grille tabs are one time use this makes it difficult getting exact fit for the holes to be lined up before drilling, this is only to reduce the gap so it looks good the tabs secure it perfectly and because of the tight space it’s easier using floral wire then zip ties also it’s more forgiving, make sure it isn’t over tighten as that will create too much stress and might crack remember people just hug it in place!! not strangle it!! Also no picture this time it was difficult to get a good one
 
#5 ·
Yes the (2015 touring projector headlight) unit fit exactly the same as the old one, but you will need the slightly smaller (2015 grille) because the new headlights are slightly bigger to accommodate for the extra bulb it has, also you will need the new (2015 headlight bracket) because the old headlight unit with a smaller one only had one duel beam light meaning, it’s one lightbulb that function as two (High and low). BTW my car is also a 13
 
#4 · (Edited)
Oh I see you swapped the bumper. Nice.
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No, I said a full bumper swap is optional: (but not necessary) also I do not know how it would fit as I didn’t do it on my CV-R but I’m guessing I’ll fit considering the top part of the frame were the headlight sit was the same but I don’t know about the bottom front part of the bumper connecting to the plastic clips that holds it in place, pretty sure it’s the same other than that. Also you can tell what model year it is by the fog lights.
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#7 · (Edited)
Yes there were some bolt on options but when I looked they were all sold out and beside it was cheaper and looked better than the next option that I found witch was a few pairs for unreasonable price almost 1k or over that, I paid half that for everything including the LED high beams and HID
 
#19 ·
About that all you would have to do is fine a way to fasten the grill spot which is a few (CM) alway from hole and screw, it also makes it pop a little out because of it, originally I was going to fix it but the tabs on the grill are one-time use I just use floral wire to huge it better later, but it was annoying to do, if I knew that I would have thought of a better solution like use a heat gun so it wouldn’t protrude out so much, cut some plastic and a custom bracket.

Sorry on the late respond lad.

Woah that is some seriously nice work. The only thing I did was to upgrade to LEDs but this conversion is awesome. Kudos to you for trying out something this comprehensive ... completely upgraded the look of you ride!
Thank you I really appreciate that,
and sorry on the late response.

Has anyone that's done this have comparison pictures of the low and high beams at night between the '12-'14 H4 setup and the H11/9005 bulbs in the '15-'16?
( Ok ) if ur asking about a (Projector and HID) vs (Reflector and Halogen)
(Projector and HID) is super 10x better.
if you’re asking about the difference in (H4) vs (H11) it all comes down to what (Bulb) you use, H4 is one Bulb that works as both, IDK if this would make them less affective over two individual Bulbs, but I would assume no because they should have two filaments not one. (High beams) will be the same since they both use (Reflectors) it all comes down to the (Bulb), better quality (Halogen, LED, and HID). But the biggest difference is in the (Bulb-housing), (Reflectors) vs (Projector).
By the way you shouldn’t use LED and HID on Low-Beam unless it has a Projector housing, reason it blinds drivers and don’t improve much visibility, high quality bulbs will be better.
 
#17 ·
I checked eBay.co.uk and each side is about $400 usd or more once shipping is factored in. That's per side.


There was a post here for someone that did the 2015 touring front end upgrade. That is a better way to do IMHO.
 
#18 ·
I checked eBay.co.uk and each side is about $400 usd or more once shipping is factored in. That's per side.


There was a post here for someone that did the 2015 touring front end upgrade. That is a better way to do IMHO.
In my state at least, when you get the yearly state inspection, you will fail for not having the DOT markings in the lenses. UK market headlights wouldn't have these. You could do a lens swap if that is possible, and then obviously you would have the DOT markings. IMO, you would be better off doing the USDM '15/'16 Touring projectors and grille with an aftermarket HID or LED bulb system. Just some things to think about.
 
#23 ·
Thanks so much for creating this guide. I have all the parts but I have not bought the harness connections out of fear of buying the wrong ones, then cutting up my current lights, and screwing things up.

Is there any chance you would have recommended links to the harness connections so I buy the correct stuff?

Appreciate the help in advance!

Thanks,

Raul
 
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