Idling engines really seems to do little these days to warm up a car. Putting the engine on load, ie driving them, is the way to warm the car up.

 

I hear you, even with that it took too long to warm up. Like I said before if this had been my RAV4, Saab or my Honda RL I would have change the thermostat in a heartbeat. Driving away to warm up is fine, but when you have snow and ice on your windshield its nice to have some heat to help remove them.

 

I sit Idle in a car, for hours on End. I get heat within the first 12 minutes of my Remote start up if I have the heater on. or ac on for coolness.

My car like any other needs like said should be driven, allowing the Engine bay to get Hot, that transfers Heat to the cabin bays body and frame. And al lthe Interior plastics, seats you name it warmed up as well. After how long you driven, once you parked and sit Idle you then feel the heat and have to lower the thermostat down. I agail sit for hours on end in my car at times

The book called the Owner's manual used to say, maybe my old 2002 that i still have may say how to warm up.

You get in turn the Key well today push start. and 30 seconds Go. You waste fuel warming up.

We're old school and that was the ways we did it. warmed up cars.

Yep you can Modify a switch to close those louvers like a choke and she'll warm up, all the oils and parts. WHy I geld off buying a 5th gen but Sis has hers and people want new technology stuff not me.

 

What switch do you modify?

 

don't let the car idle to warm up. Don't let the car idle, period. It is bad for your engine to idle.

Start the car, wait 30 seconds to 1 minute for the initial RPMs to drop and then drive gently for the first few miles until the temperature reaches final temperature and then drive normally.

 

Uh. No.

At least not when your windshield is covered with ice and snow...

Honestly, My CR-V warms up very well.

6" of snow on the car, 17F and within 15 minutes I have pushed off the (now melting) snow/ice and the windshield is frost free.

The 'temperature gauge' may not be up all the way but heat is being generated and I am comfortable (I live high up overlooking a valley -- it's a three mile drive downhill so I really do not put that much of a load on the engine).

 

Our new CR-V warms up faster than our old 2005 Odyssey, but not by much. When I say "warm-up" I mean that the temp gauge moves off the low peg and the heat comes on. Overall, I'd say that it's "normal". We don't let it sit and idle to warm it up...just get in a go. Now, we're at 38N latitude so Nome it ain't. Might be different if you live in the Great White North.

 

I'm fairly sure that if the HVAC is set to automatic, the compressor is engaged, which means the shutters are open, which means the e-fans are running. The fastest way to warm up the motor is to have the 3 previous items off and closed. Either push the fan on/off button or push the climate button, then from the touch screen, select A/C "OFF". In order for auto HVAC to be "off" during remote start the HVAC must be turned off prior to using remote start (as in turning auto HVAC off the night before using remote start the next morning).

The fastest way to warm a car up is to start it, let it idle for 30 seconds (to get oil up to the top) and drive it.

 

I'm fairly sure that if the HVAC is set to automatic, the compressor is engaged, which means the shutters are open, which means the e-fans are running. The fastest way to warm up the motor is to have the 3 previous items off and closed. Either push the fan on/off button or push the climate button, then from the touch screen, select A/C "OFF". In order for auto HVAC to be "off" during remote start the HVAC must be turned off prior to using remote start (as in turning auto HVAC off the night before using remote start the next morning).



The fastest way to warm a car up is to start it, let it idle for 30 seconds (to get oil up to the top) and drive it.

Thanks, yes auto HVAC always off and AC was off last night

 

I can say that this is not the only modern car that will essentially never warm up in cold weather at idle. A modern small-displacement low-friction engine just doesn't take that much gasoline to run at idle, and your heater core is more than capable of bleeding it off. Combine that with the fact that the coolant needs to be quite toasty before the needle will budge, (over 100 degrees, IIRC) and that adds up you can let the engine run all day and never see that needle settle at "normal".

 

I agree for the most part, lets's face it, the CR-V heater core is about the same size as the heater core found a Chevy p/u with a 454 C.I. V8 big block motor. The approximately same size heater core will most likely pull more heat (proportionately) from the CR-V's tiny 91 C.I. displacement motor compared to a 454 C.I. displacement V8 motor.

I see the factory temp gauge starts to move at about 100*F, as stated above, but my observance (ScanGauge) is the factory gauge continues to quickly rise to about 160*F actual coolant temp and stops moving up. From what I have read, the CR-V factory t-stat is rated at 172*F. That sounds about right because I observe actual coolant temp generally "floats" 177*F - 183*F. Again, my observance is that coolant temp inside the motor rises quickly, even in upper teens ambient this past January.

What puzzles me is those crazy grill shutters. 50*F this A.M. so I wanted a little heat in the cab. Compressor is off, motor is cold, set temp control to 68*F, shutters are wide open.:headscratch: 30 minutes later, motor is fully warmed up, compressor is still off, temp control set to LO, and those crazy shutters are now fully closed. :headscratch: again.

 

What are the operating parameters of the shutters?

 

So what do you do when the temps are at 110 degrees do you simply turn the engine and go? Lol. Importance here I am sure is the Oil lubricating, the AF keeping the trans fluid and Oils at operating temps. The Heater core get s the heat from the AF and the fan from the heater (am I right or I know I am wrong) (lol)?

I think out loud on this one, Engine warm up to green light to tell you to go. Maybe in 25 more years we'll see a computer saying Go.

 

Anything above basically actual cold is run 30 seconds to an minute and drive gently but go. Above freezing (i use above 40F as a reference point) its get in and go. Wait just a few seconds for fluid to build up pressure through the transmission.

I am curious where warming up amd engine is involved with HOT outside temps???? Kind of an oxymoron isnt it?

AF I assume your referring to air flow. That air flow isnt doing what you think. When its cold out it dissipates heat the engine needs to warm up. Only once the engine is warmed up or warmer outside temps is full airflow needed.

Air flow is also why turning the heater on keeps the engine from warming up. Because people do not turn on recirculation on so heater is warming outside air. Then when they turn defrost on its a double problem. Defrost engages the AC system. The STUPIDEST DESIGN IN THE HISTORY OF THE AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRY. It does ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. And I do mean NOTHING unless its summer time and you have the AC turned on so air flow is directed through the evaporator core. So the only thing it does is turn the cooling fan on for the radiator too, making it almost impossible to warm up.

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Actually its extremely far from "every expert in the industry" its a few engineers that work for car companies that are paid to say anything that ends up selling more cars. Then there is one or 2 mechanics that went along with it for their 15 minutes of fame (and what mechanic wouldnt say that, means more work for them) but if you watch, they ALL that live where a real winter happens you watch when its time to leave and their cars are all out there warming up.

The ONLY PROBLEM that happens from idling is carbon build is increased. If cylinders are getting we washed down and such, that means there are SERIOUS problems with the engine. Check engine light on and so on. Or the new 1.5T that seems to be having issues, but thats limited to one engine.

But again, you live where there is no such thing as winter (never drops below freezing) so it doesnt matter one bit for you. Its better not to idle much because it just wastes fuel. But telling everyone to do that having no idea the details behind doing it just damages peoples vehicles. I dont let my stuff warm up at all if its above freezing. About 30 seconds max to make sure all fluid is where it needs to be and go. Below 20F I give in a minute or 2. Below zero is 5-10 minutes if I forget to plug my block heater in.

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Tigrie99 would something like this help you?

https://www.amazon.com/Windshield-Protector-GoldFox-Sunshade-Anti-UV/dp/B077ZSVRT6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1523324056&sr=8-13&keywords=windscreen+snow+cover

Seems like it would at least eliminate the need for cleaning off the snow and therefore get you moving faster.

Rob

 

Oh and something that no one has pointed out yet:

IF YOUR ENGINE WONT WARM UP ITS BECAUSE YOU CAN DEFROST BLASTING. MEANS ENGINE COOLING FAN IS RUNNING. TURN OFF DEFROST, TRULY TURN OFF THE CLIMATE CONTROL ALL TOGETHER.

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One of the things the AC does is remove moisture from the air, which aids in defrosting the windows.
And the air you are breathing out while sitting there in the car is very moist.

 

Had the CR-V for almost two week and this morning was the coldest day. 30f when I left for work. It took a good 5-6 miles to finally warm up, this after remote starting the car for 10 minutes. I think its absurd how long it took. The grill vent / louver thing was open. At what temp is this suppose to close? If this were any of my other vehicles I would swear the thermostat was stuck open

Do you mean warm up inside or the engine temp gauge registering? If the gauge, that's weird as it was colder than that here yesterday (-4C so 25F) with a windchill making it more like -8 and I drove my '18 Touring and my gauge line was showing after what would be about a mile and was at its regular halfway point after maybe 2 miles.

Can't comment on the temp inside the cabin as I haven't had a need to use that yet though I'm not the main driver and haven't driven it when it was super cold here, only during days when it was around this -4C temp. I have a pretty thick winter jacket and here in Canada we have heated steering wheels (at least on the Touring) and I use that. That thing seems to warm up within about 30-60 seconds and warm hands make me feel warm.

 

So what does the owners manual actually state about warming up the vehicle?
This is what my manual says.........

A cold engine uses more fuel than a
warm engine. It is not necessary to
"warm-up" a cold engine by letting it
idle for a long time. You can drive
away in about a minute, no matter
how cold it is outside. The engine
will warm up faster, and you get
better fuel economy. To cut down on
the number of "cold starts," try to
combine several short trips into one.

 

Seems like most owners manuals have been saying something similar to that for the past 25-30 years.

 

Since fuel injection, I start the engine, hook the seat belt and go. Before fuel injection, I drove off as soon as the engine would keep running with the automatic choke. It has worked for me for the last 55 years.

 

Use of recirculation or not is vehicle dependent. Some vehicles have that tied into the AC system just like defrost, depends on the design.

The one thay asked how we came to the conclusion jumping in and going in cold temps can lead to failures, being a automotive tech in the upper midwest my entire life. Literally the majority of transmission and internal engine work or replacement happens like clock work, busiest for those reason is during the coldest months. Hard parts in transmission break, timing chain failures, engines developing rod knocks, major increase in bearing failures and engine leaks. And the colder the winter, the worse it is and I end up working 6-7 days a week like this year and still fall behind.

But as I can tell here many cant comprehend difference between idle for a couple minutes or so versus long idle times. Like the comment of "idling is classified severe duty". Warming up for a few minutes after it sits outside all night is NOT SEVERE USE, thats just a face palm moment. That pertains to fleet usage. Police vehicles for instance. Big difference.

Hey people can fall into it, be my guest, just be sure to keep trading in cars every few years, dont expect to get 200k+ out of one without major repairs. Ill keep enjoying my 2003 with 212k and sounds runs and drives like new with nothing more than a valve cover gasket, front seal and a timing chain (which chain was done for peace of mind).

But stop telling people they can do the same thing so they turn around and blame the vehicle instead of the bad advise.

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Mr. Tigris, you seem like an unhappy person......always critical toward folks that see/do something differently from the way you see/do something. If you disagree with the owners manual, then just do it the way you want to do it, keep it to yourself and don't be critical of folks that want to follow the owner's manual.:doublethumb:

 

This guy's Volvo is over 300k miles and he really does not let it idle to warm up:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=K9jdpxbLkOc

 

Go through his other videos. And Im curious what city he lives in. But the other videos says it all. One was rebuilding the head.....

Sums it up right there. Those of us that do short warm ups (few minutes if its cold enough) have 200-300k miles and nothing more than routine maintenance. His channel literally proves my point. Not to mention how can anyone take that guy even remotely seriously. Some stuff in his videos makes sense as to why he thinks things are the way they are though its so far from the truth.

Some dude in his back yard or techs that deal with the stuff day in and day out for a living, amusing people listen to guys that know next to nothing that can BS well versus those that know what their doing. But hey, to each their own. Car companies will continue to make billions because people dont learn. And shops like where I am will get to enjoy big repair bills because of people ignorance. Only people loosing are the ones that dont get it.

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There will always be exceptions to both/either side.

 

Finally got my Scangauge hooked up with the correct code for engine temp. Left the house today and it was 32f. My drive to work is 18 miles one way. The first half is suburban streets and about 35-40mph max. The temps hung in the 130's for a few miles, then slowly made their way to 140f and 150f at 8 miles in. When I finally got on the highway doing 45-55mph the temps went from 150's to a normal operating temp of 182f. Only during these speed did the temp stay that high. As soon as I got off and dropped to lower speeds the engine temp was back in the 150's -160's. Yes this weird little motor takes a long time to heat up

All driving was done in Econ mode, not that it should make a difference. What made a huge difference was having the recycling option on. Much more heat into the cabin very quickly

FYI, I let it warm up for about 30 seconds

 

...........FYI, I let it warm up for about 30 seconds

There's where you blew it.......should have let it warm up 31, maybe 32 seconds.:Happy:

 

Since apparently i have a cold sensitive wife & a toddler following in her footsteps lol
I warmmours every morning more for cabin temp than engine temp. I drive them a very small way to train and pre k and it JUST warms up engine temp wise when i get back home but dont go over 30mph since its all local roads.

If i had a highway commute or something longer if wait till im up to temp before jumping on that

 

This really is a strange beast. Driving home from work (45f) engine temp when to 140-150f within two miles. Yet it stayed there for another 6 miles driving 45-55mph. Then in about one minute it went to 183f and stayed between 183-186f for remaining 10 miles home.

 

Process of elimination......the easiest item to rule out is a malfunctioning ScanGauge. I'd suggest sending it to/contacting Linear Logic with a detailed description of what you are observing so they can check the unit itself.unno:

Do you have another vehicle you can plug your ScanGauge into for a comparison?

 

Any chance you had your cabin heat on?

If you were trying to heat any air, whether on recirculate or from outside, some engine heat was being used to warm that air.
Once the cabin reached a desired temperature less heat from engine was needed to maintain comfort and thus was stored in the engine and dissipated through the engine cooling system.

Just a theory - -

 

No cabin heat until I got to the 180's, I purposely left it off to keep that out of the loop

Process of elimination......the easiest item to rule out is a malfunctioning ScanGauge. I'd suggest sending it to/contacting Linear Logic with a detailed description of what you are observing so they can check the unit itself.unno:

Do you have another vehicle you can plug your ScanGauge into for a comparison?

Scangauge is fine, tested on two other cars. The cars temp gauge basically showed what the SG did. Up about 1/3, then just sat that there then moving up again when it got to 180f