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Time to throw a monkey wrench in.

For 25 years now I've worked in the Engine Engineering department for a large multi-team NASCAR racing company. We have built R&D race engines from new components with the purpose of testing maximum power under different conditions and we always achieve the highest torque and horsepower with a cold engine that has never been run before. Test parameters are: new engine with pre-heated oil in the system, cold coolant, and oil pressure established; start the engine and immediately to 9000 RPM at full load.

Sitting within the Engineering department doesn't mean you're an Engineer. Let's be clear about that.

But I will for once agree with you regarding the test mentioned, because every OEM does the very same test.

Ford even had a Ecoboost torture test campaign video series out there, bragging that it survives this crazy test and then the same abused engine can go out and races the Baja. Kinda cool to watch.
 
This was a piece of horrible advice given by Robbyg in another thread.

He suggested revving the engine to 4000 RPM as soon as you start up the car and drive.
Nope!
The OP in that thread said that he keeps his RPM below 2300 while driving in order to Baby the engine. I said that he should be driving at 3000-4000 RPM. I assumed that he understood the engine needs to warm up slowly over a 10 minute period before he starts driving. Of course everyone who wants to find a fault with my posts assumed I meant get in the car and just Rev her up and go. So yes my mistake for not mentioning the obvious thing that even a novice driver already knows.

I think the OP of this post is stating the same thing but he should not be saying to not to give the car time to warm up the oil and cylinder walls, that is a bad idea.

Putting it into Low after the engine has warmed up, allows you to maintain Revs, generate extra heat and not be going too fast in the snow, that is a good idea.

BTW Bluegrass can you please show me where I said:

He suggested revving the engine to 4000 RPM as soon as you start up the car and drive

If not it's another deliberate misquote.
 
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OK fellow CRV ers..I need help....been testing for a week now and same thing every time

COLD START
....remote start the CRV and louvers close and with in 5 seconds they open and fan comes on.....leave it running full 10 minutes and no heat

...manual start it and louvers slowly close and fan dose not come on at all....2 to 3 minutes and warmer air....runs 10 minutes and its great inside

why to the louvers close and then open and fan comes on only in remote start?......does this seem right?
 
Sitting within the Engineering department doesn't mean you're an Engineer. Let's be clear about that.

But I will for once agree with you regarding the test mentioned, because every OEM does the very same test.

Ford even had a Ecoboost torture test campaign video series out there, bragging that it survives this crazy test and then the same abused engine can go out and races the Baja. Kinda cool to watch.
It's hard to earn a compliment from you but it is nice to have a civil exchange.
 
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OK fellow CRV ers..I need help....been testing for a week now and same thing every time

COLD START
....remote start the CRV and louvers close and with in 5 seconds they open and fan comes on.....leave it running full 10 minutes and no heat

...manual start it and louvers slowly close and fan dose not come on at all....2 to 3 minutes and warmer air....runs 10 minutes and its great inside

why to the louvers close and then open and fan comes on only in remote start?......does this seem right?
I don't think anyone has answered why the shutters don't stay closed and the fans stay off until a set temperature is reached. We need a direct line to Honda's engineers to answer that.
 
Time to throw a monkey wrench in.

For 25 years now I've worked in the Engine Engineering department for a large multi-team NASCAR racing company. We have built R&D race engines from new components with the purpose of testing maximum power under different conditions and we always achieve the highest torque and horsepower with a cold engine that has never been run before. Test parameters are: new engine with pre-heated oil in the system, cold coolant, and oil pressure established; start the engine and immediately to 9000 RPM at full load.
Yes I have heard the same thing. I guess you get more HP because the cylinders are tighter and the compression is higher. The Key thing that might Zip by the casual reader is that as you state the "Oil is Preheated" and "oil pressure established". That is a major factor in preventing engine damage in this test.
 
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Yes I have heard the same thing. I guess you get more HP because the cylinders are tighter and the compression is higher. The Key thing that might Zip by the casual reader is that as you state the "Oil is Preheated" and "oil pressure established". That is a major factor in preventing engine damage in this test.
The primary mechanism for higher power is the cooler denser inlet charge. It's not absorbing heat from hot engine parts. The math for that shows a 1% power increase per 10°F drop in inlet charge temperature.

Correct, the oil supply has to be primed and hot.
 
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OK fellow CRV ers..I need help....been testing for a week now and same thing every time

COLD START
....remote start the CRV and louvers close and with in 5 seconds they open and fan comes on.....leave it running full 10 minutes and no heat

...manual start it and louvers slowly close and fan dose not come on at all....2 to 3 minutes and warmer air....runs 10 minutes and its great inside

why to the louvers close and then open and fan comes on only in remote start?......does this seem right?

Does “remote start” set the HVAC in “AUTO” mode? If it does, that may be why those crazy shutters open, the compressor engages and the efans run. Keep starting with push button and setting the HVAC to manual.
 
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We hit below freezing, this morning, for the first time, since I bought my 2018. I was about 5 minutes into my morning commute, when I heard the fan kick up and felt warm air coming at me (HVAC was in Auto). All in all, I'm happy with that.
 
I said that he should be driving at 3000-4000 RPM. I assumed that he understood the engine needs to warm up slowly over a 10 minute period before he starts driving...
If not it's another deliberate misquote.
I didn't quote you. If I had, you would have seen your comments italicized or in quotes.

Here is a QUOTE of what you said...
"...you really want to have this engine revving up to at least 3000-4000 RPM for as much of the drive as possible..."

I'll let others decide whether this is sound advice for the long term health and overall efficiency (MPG) of your engine.

Not to mention the cabin noise/drone of an engine constantly turning at 4,000+ RPM.

And you certainly gave no indication you felt the engine "needs to warm up slowly over 10 minutes."
 
Does “remote start” set the HVAC in “AUTO” mode? If it does, that may be why those crazy shutters open, the compressor engages and the efans run. Keep starting with push button and setting the HVAC to manual.

no its not set to auto mode....it was set to seat and floor? and that seemed to be where it was blowing?....dealer doesn't know how the system works,so i guess I have to go out and start it in manual mode...thanks for your input......Rick
 
I didn't quote you. If I had, you would have seen your comments italicized or in quotes.

Here is a QUOTE of what you said...
"...you really want to have this engine revving up to at least 3000-4000 RPM for as much of the drive as possible..."

I'll let others decide whether this is sound advice for the long term health and overall efficiency (MPG) of your engine.

Not to mention the cabin noise/drone of an engine constantly turning at 4,000+ RPM.

And you certainly gave no indication you felt the engine "needs to warm up slowly over 10 minutes."
So the answer is "No" I never said it. I really don't expect to come to a car forum and tell people basic stuff like warm up your engine before moving off. I think most people are smart enough to know that.

As for running your engine at 3000-4000 RPM during most of your drive, what is it that you think will happen? Before I got this vehicle with CVT my engine was almost always over 3000+ RPM for 90% of my driving time. None of my engines have ever blown up! As for cabin noise etc it's certainly a trade off, do you want heat in the vehicle on a sub zero day or would you prefer to be freezing in silence? Ill let others decide which one they prefer.
 
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As for running your engine at 3000-4000 RPM during most of your drive, what is it that you think will happen? Before I got this vehicle with CVT my engine was almost always over 3000+ RPM for 90% of my driving time. None of my engines have ever blown up! As for cabin noise etc it's certainly a trade off.
What vehicle did you own prior to the CRV?

You will find very little support for your notion that "you really want to have this engine revving up to at least 3000-4000 RPM for as much of the drive as possible."
- Mainstream modern vehicles like the CRV should not need to be driven "as much as possible" at 4,000+ RPM.
- The fuel mileage penalty for doing so will be enormous. You won't get anywhere near the EPA mileage.
- The amount of cabin noise when constantly driving around at 4,000+ RPM would be unacceptable.

do you want heat in the vehicle on a sub zero day or would you prefer to be freezing in silence? Ill let others decide which one they prefer.
Interesting acknowledgement.

You SHOULD NOT have to decide between these two options in a modern vehicle. It is only a decision for those with the flawed CRV engine.
Any other modern vehicle can have BOTH heat AND be driven normally (without the engine constantly turning at 4,000 RPM).
 
What vehicle did you own prior to the CRV?
2014 RAV 4 and if you don't know already, I like to drive fast.

You will find very little support for your notion that "you really want to have this engine revving up to at least 3000-4000 RPM for as much of the drive as possible."
Read the threads title again. In this context yes.

- Mainstream modern vehicles like the CRV should not need to be driven "as much as possible" at 4,000+ RPM.
It has nothing to do with Modern vehicles. It all depends on the operating band the engine has been designed to operate in.
In this case No it's not ideal but then again freezing to death IMHO is not a better option.

- The fuel mileage penalty for doing so will be enormous. You won't get anywhere near the EPA mileage.
- The amount of cabin noise when constantly driving around at 4,000+ RPM would be unacceptable.
The fuel economy will of course suck if your in Low gear revving the engine in the snow but the OP is making a suggestion for getting more heat and this will do the trick. Money and Noise is that what your going to be thinking about if your freezing your butt off in stop and go traffic? If so then just stay cold and save some money and enjoy the silence.

Interesting acknowledgement.

You SHOULD NOT have to decide between these two options in a modern vehicle. It is only a decision for those with the flawed CRV engine.
Any other modern vehicle can have BOTH heat AND be driven normally (without the engine constantly turning at 4,000 RPM).
Whats interesting about it? Long before you joined the forum I already acknowledging in several threads that the CRV has a cabin heating problem. I have never wavered from that view point.
 
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I said that he should be driving at 3000-4000 RPM. I assumed that he understood the engine needs to warm up slowly over a 10 minute period before he starts driving.

Anyone with at least 2 brain cells can see you make up so much that you can’t even keep your point of view consistent, nevermind simply your lack of logic.

You meant you should warm it up for 10 minutes before you start driving? Really Robby, is that your story of the moment you want us to believe??? Really? Never mind the point of the conversation being that it doesn’t warm up, and how can one warm it up and you saying to rev it to warm it, but now you meant rev it after it’s already warmed up. Is that right robby? Is that your story change this minute?

I said a long time ago I’d ignore your all too numerous fictional posts. I need to stick to that promise.
Good grief
 
Anyone with at least 2 brain cells can see you make up so much that you can’t even keep your point of view consistent, nevermind simply your lack of logic.

You meant you should warm it up for 10 minutes before you start driving? Really Robby, is that your story of the moment you want us to believe??? Really? Never mind the point of the conversation being that it doesn’t warm up, and how can one warm it up and you saying to rev it to warm it, but now you meant rev it after it’s already warmed up. Is that right robby? Is that your story change this minute?

I said a long time ago I’d ignore your all too numerous fictional posts. I need to stick to that promise.
Good grief

I really think you got a few screws lose or some major issue in your life.
Most people are pressing the remote start in the winter which runs for 10 minutes before they get into the car. If you don't understand what I mean by warm up then say so because I already spelled it out in another thread. I mean getting the oil up to a reasonable temperature and the cylinder walls are hot. That does not mean the engine will be blowing hot air out of the HVAC unit. To get the Hot air out the HVAC you need much more heat and that would be the reason for running at a higher RPM in low gear. I notice you like to follow me around and comment on every post I make. If they annoy you why do you keep reading them? Don't you have something better to do with your life.
 
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Bobby, you’re not worth my time with your little insignificant insults , never mind your fictional posts. There’s no ignore button here but fear not, I will certainly skip over your posts. I only hope you don’t lift your leg on every thread, so I don’t have to do so much scrolling past your stuff.
 
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