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Déjà vu all over again - this Friday evening >> a repeat happened. My wife was at a local mall, and while backing out of a parking spot, the Instrument Cluster went all BLACK. A Text in YELLOW told her to put the car in Park.
This time she could not turn off the car and also could not shift out of park - after she put the car in park.
I was 25 minutes away. I was able to use a small screw driver and press the Break Release button and put the car into gear. straightaway I drove to Ron Norris Honda in Titusville FL which was just 2 miles away.
There the same Mechanic who worked this issue a week ago came out and showed me that when the car will not power down -- Press the START Button (3) times real quick to power off the car.

Dealer will be looking into why - Monday.
 
Hello Thedarknight
I took the CRV to the Honda Dealer this morning looking forward to a very hefty bill. They just called and said the problem was a blown fuse under the dash. Thumbs up to Coggin Honda of St. Augustine Fl. Have heard several good reports on this Honda dealer lately but was still concerned. They are 10 miles farther away from our local dealer but they now have a lifetime customer. Thanks again to Coggin Honda for being such an honest dealer. And thanks for your reply to post.
I posted a week ago about the FUSE.

Well i got Déjà vu
all over again - Friday evening >> we had a repeat failure.
My wife was at a local mall, and while backing out of a parking spot, the Instrument Cluster went all BLACK - AGAIN. A Text in YELLOW told her to put the car in Park.
This time she could not POWER OFF the car or shift out of park.
I was 25 minutes away. I was able to use a small screw driver and press the Break Release button and put the car into gear. Straightaway I drove to our local Ron Norris Honda in Titusville FL which was just 2 miles away.
There the same Mechanic who worked this issue a week ago came out and showed me that when the car will not power down -- Press the START Button (3) times real quick to power off the car.

Dealer is looking into why - Monday.
 
Hopefully they don't try to charge you another $130 B.S. trouble shooting fee. Anytime a fuse blows its usually an indication that something caused it and it will keep happening until they find the root cause. Good luck this could be painful.
 
SOLUTION...
Black-Out Instrument Panel - Dealer called today and said they found a short in the wires running to the Rear-View Mirror. Seems that when we park, we were hanging our hard plastic Handicap Parking Placard from the mirror. This sharp edged piece of plastic had cut into the thin wiring harness running to to Mirror which is tied into the Rear View Camera in the rear Cargo/Liftgate. When we shifted the car into reverse, the Rear Camera shorted which caused the blown fuse (not every time of course) -- which caused the instrument panel to go black.
So waiting for a new wiring harness and a $700 parts & labor repair bill to fix.
 
Gotta love dealer repairs! A mere mortal would cut out the bad portion of the harness, solder in some replacement wires and coat the whole mess with heat-shrink tubing and electrical tape (tubing for the wires, tape for the harness as a whole.) But the dealer's gotta replace the whole harness as a unit, because god-forbid a tech be trusted with a soldering iron and heat gun!

If I were in your place, I'd thank (and pay) the dealer for their diagnosis (I'm sure it wasn't an easy one!), and take it to a shop that will perform the daring feat of "basic wiring harness repairs".
 
Since the car is out of warranty, find an auto shop that does wiring and see if they can repair the damaged section as Sirwired suggested . Probably a lot cheaper..
 
Gotta love dealer repairs! A mere mortal would cut out the bad portion of the harness, solder in some replacement wires and coat the whole mess with heat-shrink tubing and electrical tape (tubing for the wires, tape for the harness as a whole.) But the dealer's gotta replace the whole harness as a unit, because god-forbid a tech be trusted with a soldering iron and heat gun!

If I were in your place, I'd thank (and pay) the dealer for their diagnosis (I'm sure it wasn't an easy one!), and take it to a shop that will perform the daring feat of "basic wiring harness repairs".
I don't fault Honda for requiring dealer service staff replace the entire wiring assembly. It is the best move, though it may or may not actually be the needed move. Understand that it is Honda, not the dealers, that specify how service and repairs are made to their vehicles. Hondas main concern is reliability (not cost) of any repairs performed, and like most motor vehicle manufacturers.... they go more and more with field replaceable units.. which would include wiring harnesses in the FRU list. This brings consistency to service and repairs under the brand... rather than free for all repair procedures by random techs at dealerships.

There are several reasons for harness replacement over repair, the most important of which is A) harness integrity is clearly compromised if there is a shorted wire, and there is no easy way to tell if that is the only thing where integrity of the harness is lost. B) Auto service techs are NOT electronics technicians, so as a whole are not qualified to repair anything electrical other than via part number replacement. They may actually create more issues than they fix if they tried.

I too would repair rather then replace if my vehicle was out of warranty, but I would either do it myself as an experienced electrical engineer, or I would find a shop that specializes in electrical wiring repairs in motor vehicles as that is the only people I would trust other than myself to make actual repairs to a damaged harness. Beyond that, harness replacement is the best move.
 
I am a little surprised that the plastic handicapped placard is sharp enough to cut the wiring...
 
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I am a little surprised that the plastic handicapped placard is sharp enough to cut the wiring...
Heh... ever had a paper cut? Same principle. :)

And yes.. plastic sheets like a placard do tend to have "crisp" edges and given enough time.. could indeed cut through something through normal vibration, bumps, turns, etc.

Granted.... this particular harness is NOT expected to see bad weather, manhandling, cuts and scrapes, etc... because of where it is located.. so I bet that insulation is much less than say in the engine compartment or interior panels where there are metal edges, pass through grommets and possible weather or temperature effects.
 
Wife just got home with our 2020 Touring. Funny thing, the wiring to the mirror is covered in a rubber like tubing, and...get this, it hangs BELOW the shaft that holds the mirror. Hard to see how it could be cut by the placard, at least the placards I am familiar with in AZ but what do I know? I haven't seen the car is question.
 
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Wife just got home with our 2020 Touring. Funny thing, the wiring to the mirror is covered in a rubber like tubing, and...get this, it hangs BELOW the shaft that holds the mirror. Hard to see how it could be cut by the placard, at least the placards I am familiar with in AZ but what do I know? I haven't seen the car is question.
Time for a real experiment then? You know.. put up a plastic placard on your Mirror and see what happens over time? :p
 
Time for a real experiment then? You know.. put up a plastic placard on your Mirror and see what happens over time? :p
Maybe I have one and I am speaking from personal experience over several years??? :unsure:

Maybe I am not! :unsure:

Of course the poster mentioned over 76,000 miles on their 2017 CR-V. It will take us a long time to get that many miles to complete the experiment!
 
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I don't fault Honda for requiring dealer service staff replace the entire wiring assembly. It is the best move, though it may or may not actually be the needed move. Understand that it is Honda, not the dealers, that specify how service and repairs are made to their vehicles. Hondas main concern is reliability (not cost) of any repairs performed, and like most motor vehicle manufacturers.... they go more and more with field replaceable units.. which would include wiring harnesses in the FRU list. This brings consistency to service and repairs under the brand... rather than free for all repair procedures by random techs at dealerships.

There are several reasons for harness replacement over repair, the most important of which is A) harness integrity is clearly compromised if there is a shorted wire, and there is no easy way to tell if that is the only thing where integrity of the harness is lost. B) Auto service techs are NOT electronics technicians, so as a whole are not qualified to repair anything electrical other than via part number replacement. They may actually create more issues than they fix if they tried.

I too would repair rather then replace if my vehicle was out of warranty, but I would either do it myself as an experienced electrical engineer, or I would find a shop that specializes in electrical wiring repairs in motor vehicles as that is the only people I would trust other than myself to make actual repairs to a damaged harness. Beyond that, harness replacement is the best move.
I dunno, for the premium rates you pay for dealer labor vs. an independent garage, I'd expect the techs to have basic auto repair skills, which totally includes basic automotive wiring; it's not a difficult skill. Finding the fault is most of the work, repairing wires and connectors is relatively trivial in comparison... we aren't talking SMT PCB-level stuff here.

Whole-harness-only certainly isn't the standard with all automakers... I had a harness patched up as part of a warranty repair for my VW. (It was a nasty intermittent misfire; turned out to be a short in the wires to the cyl. 2 coil pack.) VW even routinely mentioned an Official VW Electrical Repair Kit throughout their service manual.
 
I dunno, for the premium rates you pay for dealer labor vs. an independent garage, I'd expect the techs to have basic auto repair skills, which totally includes basic automotive wiring; it's not a difficult skill. Finding the fault is most of the work, repairing wires and connectors is relatively trivial in comparison... we aren't talking SMT PCB-level stuff here.
I understand your point. But there is some real nuance to this from a manufacturer perspective.

As I noted earlier... it's a quality control thing for Honda Corporate, as it is for many companies, especially Japanese companies. One thing Honda is pretty well known for is process consistency. If they let mechanics simply repair wiring harnesses "old school" style... then they lose a lot of control over part quality... and a poor job of repair of a harness could in fact cause more issues than it solves. Honda requiring the harness be replaced assures that after the repair.. it is back to factory OEM.. which is what Honda strives for (just read their warranty documents on how they approach warranty repairs... particularly under a HondaCare plan.

I agree that repairing a wiring harness is not rocket science.... but it does require some finesse and skills to do it correctly and consistently and I doubt many service techs are really up to the task.. at least to Honda quality standards.

Honda could issue manual repair instructions, but that breaks a key part of Honda TQA... closed loop quality control. When they require a harness replacement by a trained and certified technician.. Honda knows that the vehicle is OEM compliant when it leaves the shop, because an OEM harness was used to replace the bad harness, and it is a Honda specified and certified replacement component. Manual repairs of wires or insulation..... no way for Honda to know what was done and to what quality standards as there is no easy method for Honda to verify the repair.

FACT: even back in my days in engineering design of communications and computer equipment.... the general practice on bad wiring or bad mechanical issues was to always replace the assembly. We actually had to design for that, or for total replaceable unit. The assumption was.. once compromised, quality can no longer be easily audited and controlled. Used to be that applied only to commercial and military spec equipment... but those quality levels and processes have actually migrated over time down into many consumer products, including motor vehicles.

Some of this is also cultural. Example ... Japanese TQA programs and process tend to go the Field Replaceable Unit approach to maintenance and repair, with pulled units (which can also be things like wiring harnesses, are then retrieved and processed for QA opportunity in improvement of design, etc. If it is a repairable unit.. they more often R&R them at a central depot as this serves Japanese TQA goals and requirements. Whereas, I can totally see German manufacturers specify repairs-in-place more often, especially since technicians in most professions in Germany are highly trained and are more like a typical engineer in the US professional community than a tech.

I personally would repair a damaged harness... but I also have the training and skills to do so. Many people do not.. so they might go to an independent shop that does electrical repairs. If the vehicle is still under warranty (factory or extended) this could void said warranty though.
 
We have that card and it goes on and off I want to see the photo of the actual cutting, you must be slapping that sucker on from the pass side to you. not offending anyone but Honda is smart enough to tube wiring, and when it 28awg no less. can we say lesson learned , COmmando hook next time
 
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I personally would repair a damaged harness... but I also have the training and skills to do so. Many people do not.. so they might go to an independent shop that does electrical repairs. If the vehicle is still under warranty (factory or extended) this could void said warranty though.
Just curious, you are trained and have the skills to do so, which do you use,
Crimp butt connectors with weatherproof shrink insulation?
Or, solder with heat shrink?
Or, is there some other way of doing repair(other than replace harness)?
 
Just curious, you are trained and have the skills to do so, which do you use,
Crimp butt connectors with weatherproof shrink insulation?
Or, solder with heat shrink?
Or, is there some other way of doing repair(other than replace harness)?
Personally, I always prefer solder and good quality heat-shrink over the wiring for a permanent repair. A proper solder connection is always the best approach. But if you are not skilled in solder and use of thermal heat shrink.. I don't recommend it.

This particular repair appears to be one that would be served best with a small micro-tip soldering iron with controlled temperature, and a high quality rosined solder. It is not something for a soldering gun, or a big tip solder iron.

Yeah, you could cut and splice wires with crimp connectors, but these will make the repair result bulkier and it is at the end of the day a mechanical connection which I personally would avoid in a motor vehicle.
 
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