[sirwired]

Just curious, you are trained and have the skills to do so, which do you use,
Crimp butt connectors with weatherproof shrink insulation?
Or, solder with heat shrink?
Or, is there some other way of doing repair(other than replace harness)?

Butt crimp connectors are okay when wiring a stereo, but given the size of the wires (and the fact that a fat wad of butt splices looks terrible, and it's surprisingly hard to get a solid connection with crimps), solder plus heatshrink is totally the way to go. If one didn't have the soldering skills, my second choice would be low-melt solder butt splices (maybe dab the wires with flux before sliding on the connectors); still ugly, but takes zero skill to make the connections.

That said, I've soldered wires way skinner than the rearview mirror wires with a cheap-ass 15W pencil, so anybody with any soldering skill it all would be able to pull off this repair.

 

[fishycomics]

Look at the photo. and you see it is a soft rubber tube you had to have missed the actual arm in order to cut the tubing as well the wire sheathing, it leans more to the Pass side and below the arm.

you want to try and wire it, solder it, Good luck

 

[Grpass]

SOLUTION...
Black-Out Instrument Panel - Dealer called today and said they found a short in the wires running to the Rear-View Mirror. Seems that when we park, we were hanging our hard plastic Handicap Parking Placard from the mirror. This sharp edged piece of plastic had cut into the thin wiring harness running to to Mirror which is tied into the Rear View Camera in the rear Cargo/Liftgate. When we shifted the car into reverse, the Rear Camera shorted which caused the blown fuse (not every time of course) -- which caused the instrument panel to go black.
So waiting for a new wiring harness and a $700 parts & labor repair bill to fix.

Have you looked to see if the damage is visible?

 

[williamsji]

Look at the photo. and you see it is a soft rubber tube you had to have missed the actual arm in order to cut the tubing as well the wire sheathing, it leans more to the Pass side and below the arm.

you want to try and wire it, solder it, Good luck

View attachment 145007

The owner stated that they hang the handicap placard when they park.. so I assume that to mean they take off and on often. Some small percentage of those cycles causing a sharp edge to rub against that exposed harness is all it would take.

If I recall correctly (from when my front glass was replaced after a crack) ... you can, at a minimum, detach the mirror from the front glass (it clips in place on the metal tab on the glass).. and that would give you plenty of room to repair that cable in place. Just don't lay your soldering iron on your dash It may be that there is also a connector up there somewhere such that you can disconnect the mirror assembly, which means you could repair it on a bench if that is the case.

 

[fishycomics]

IMO:

I see it hooking from the driver point they put their right hand towards the pass side and in an upward diagonal hook scored the harness slapping it each time. if they took it off, they should do the same to put on, they did not.

Cold heat solder Cold Heat | Soldering Tool

A safer approach something you can write a Story here on the next time you see a post hehehe @williamsji

If hot soldering is your forte, I go with these expensive solderless parts https://www.newark.com/raychem-te-c...902757978439|&CMP=KNC-GUSA-GEN-Shopping-NewStructure-Cable-Wire-CableAssemblies

Why? because not about the solder dripping,about the person melting away the sleeve and causing more damage to the cable.

we are guilty as charge with our Hc pass. we never leave it on 24/7 one less thing to get ripped off, but I do not underhook mine I overhook it, nothing to catch, why the photo was shown.

 

[PMKnight]

We hung both this and a handicap card from the mirror. I don't have a photo of other tag but it's much the same small sharp plastic opening --- this parking pass (Wife's a HS Math Teacher) we left on the mirror, but the State of Florida requires we take down the bigger Handicap tag when driving.

Dealer said that we cut & frayed the wires at the connector going into the mirror.
The replacement wiring harness -- the plastic tubing does not go completely into the mirror. I'd say it leaves a 1/4" to 3/8" gap between the end of the Wiring Tube and the Mirror. I could see where one of these tags could snag or pull on a wire if it got into that small gap.

Also last June 2020 we had to replace our Windshield . Virgin Trains High Speed rail construction has a 6 mile construction zone along Hwy 528 between US1 and I-95 that we drive down almost every day - over several months we collected more than our share of rock chips in the Windshield.

 

[williamsji]

We hung both this and a handicap card from the mirror. I don't have a photo of other tag but it's much the same small sharp plastic opening --- this parking pass (Wife's a HS Math Teacher) we left on the mirror, but the State of Florida requires we take down the bigger Handicap tag when driving.
View attachment 145092
Dealer said that we cut & frayed the wires at the connector going into the mirror.
The replacement wiring harness -- the plastic tubing does not go completely into the mirror. I'd say it leaves a 1/4" to 3/8" gap between the end of the Wiring Tube and the Mirror. I could see where one of these tags could snag or pull on a wire if it got into that small gap.

Also last June 2020 we had to replace our Windshield . Virgin Trains High Speed rail construction has a 6 mile construction zone along Hwy 528 between US1 and I-95 that we drive down almost every day - over several months we collected more than our share of rock chips in the Windshield.

Suggestion to resolve this issue, both for you, and for other owners:

If it were me, I would take a small section of well insulated 18 gauge wire and fashion a loop that will hang on the mirror where you used to put these placards, and then hang the placards just below the mirror (an inch or two of free loop is all that is need for this wire loop. The wire loop will take all the wear and tear and if it does eventually fray (doubtful).. easy to replace. You could also achieve this with a short nylon strap that already has mating clips on it as well (short version of the kind commonly used for waist straps on small hip pouches.

The reason I would use a closed loop of wire rather than a nylon strap and clip is that you can easily twist and modify the wire so that the placards hand down facing forward rather then at an angle.

That way.. you never hang directly on the mirror, yet can hang it in that general location so that it looks like it was hanging on the mirror.

Also easier with a wire loop or strap to hang and to remove the placards.

 

[fishycomics]

We can talk about the fix, but I show the actual part two wires. . what can I do to not make this happen? really nothing, if your card is catching the Module- Heck I got to run will return wit the continued finish

 

[fishycomics]

Am Back thank you for waiting: Okay we all do not have a Perfect aim: I see this as simply putting the pass on and thinking we got the Arm when we actually hit the wire, and as the pass slid down to the bare wiring 2 leads.

To prevent this from the next time happening. you do not want to do anything that will make it look ugly. So it may be best to simply buy a Command hook and place on the radar area. also bay look ugly

I tried placing tape, Lol, I tried slide a piece over the module Lol I even tried around the arm.



What honda could've,would've, should've, is already done.

 

[Grpass]

Suggestion to resolve this issue, both for you, and for other owners:

If it were me, I would take a small section of well insulated 18 gauge wire and fashion a loop that will hang on the mirror where you used to put these placards, and then hang the placards just below the mirror (an inch or two of free loop is all that is need for this wire loop. The wire loop will take all the wear and tear and if it does eventually fray (doubtful).. easy to replace. You could also achieve this with a short nylon strap that already has mating clips on it as well (short version of the kind commonly used for waist straps on small hip pouches.

The reason I would use a closed loop of wire rather than a nylon strap and clip is that you can easily twist and modify the wire so that the placards hand down facing forward rather then at an angle.

That way.. you never hang directly on the mirror, yet can hang it in that general location so that it looks like it was hanging on the mirror.

Also easier with a wire loop or strap to hang and to remove the placards.

A zip tie would also work.

 

[williamsji]

A zip tie would also work.

Yeah, that was my first thought, but a zip tie also has sharp edges on it so it too could dig into the mirror harness, unless you found a way to attach it and not touch the harness.

 

[fishycomics]

Yeah, that was my first thought, but a zip tie also has sharp edges on it so it too could dig into the mirror harness, unless you found a way to attach it and not touch the harness.

Zip tie will work the cut edge is on the outside, not inside, you use a pair of flush cutters to smooth the cut, to take it a step further you can use "Velcro ties" since i showed the solutions

 

[pick1e]

Personally I would enlarge the hole on the placards so they are hanging freely from the mirror support and not squeezing and cutting the wires below.

 

[JB in AZ]

Personally I would enlarge the hole on the placards so they are hanging freely from the mirror support and not squeezing and cutting the wires below.

Yes, but with due respect for the OP, they didn't even think of it being a problem. What's that saying about hindsight?

 

[fishycomics]

Wire edge guard

I suggest want a clean look and you are not paying attention this will be the Fix

Boy how hard is this, sounds like I am just talking to myself here

 

[fishycomics]

problem solved

 

[pick1e]

Yes, but with due respect for the OP, they didn't even think of it being a problem. What's that saying about hindsight?

It's not hindsight, I was making a simple suggestion to prevent future damage that had not been previously mentioned and did not require some mickey mouse fix with gooey electrical tape. I will be happy to reduce my level of contribution to the forum going forward.

 

[fishycomics]

its the eye of the Beholder, your car, not mine and ideas are tossed out, its your choice. I am about to put the hammer down on @williamsnj (joking) in the video a Zip tie. ask me how many I used in my time. 3 million-plus.

UV rated William is the best zip tie to use if one correctly goes that route, still not a good look. This is where Honda needs a tubular, hallow arm, and wire correctly!

 

[fishycomics]

Zip tie how its works here you go WIlliamnj and all

 

[williamsji]

UV rated William is the best zip tie to use if one correctly goes that route, still not a good look. This is where Honda needs a tubular, hallow arm, and wire correctly!

Yeah, anyone that goes the zip tie route, or even the wire edge guards you showed above... need to be UV rated.