Welcome!

What country is this? May not be able to buy the same items here in America, but most jump packs work fine, not sure what amps are needed, but some are small and some are like this, more reserve I would think.

Amazon.com: Clore Automotive Jump-N-Carry JNC660 1700 Peak Amp 12 Volt Jump Starter , Blue : Automotive

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Welcome!

What country is this? May not be able to buy the same items here in America, but most jump packs work fine, not sure what amps are needed, but some are small and some are like this, more reserve I would think.

Hi! Been lurking for quite a long time so that's my first post. Poland / Europe, but I don't care about specific brand. Just been wondering if jump starters designed for normal engines will work for the hybrid system. I'd go for less ampers but longer time if there were such devices.
But maybe the 3 secinds is enough.

 

Jump started from another car, 12vdc system, simply buy a battery booster some you can do a turbo jump start

 

The short answer: 3 seconds should be enough because you need to start the 2.0L to run the inverter generator and that is where you will get the juice to charge the drive battery which will in turn charge your 12v battery.

Sooo, your starter is 1.4kW. The math equates that to 116.66~ Amps

Factoid: Both your Drive and Chassis batteries are 1.4kWh rated.

 

The short answer: 3 seconds should be enough because you need to start the 2.0L to run the inverter generator and that is where you will get the juice to charge the drive battery which will in turn charge your 12v battery.

Hi! Thanks but my understanding is if the drive battery is ok, the CPU won't even start the 2.0L and will stay in the EV mode.

That's what happened when I jump started from another car last time. Only pressing "Sport" forces the engine to be started.

So what I was wondering is how much time is needed to actually power on the electronics and let the converter (not the generator) start.

Are you sure the 12v battery is not being charged until the main engine is woring?

 

It’s the 12v battery which is depleted. Once you connect the battery booster the 12v system energises the control circuit and ancillaries to enable the car to start.

As far as I’m aware the engine isn’t started conventionally therefore there’s no high current surge required to start the engine. Once started the cars will be self sustaining so you can remove the booster.

 

OP is in Poland, although Farcăul is in Romania

Going forward....
Get a Lithium 12v starter battery as they last longer and tolerate being completely depleted.
Lead Acid becomes trash fast if below tolerance level voltage for too long, too many times.

 

OP is in Poland, although Farcăul is in Romania

That is a great catch

 

BTW, I don't tink the topic fully belongs to the Accesories.

It's not a question which product to buy, but how much current hybrid Honda actually uses when powering on from 12V.
Anybody able to point to some data on it please let me know!

 

BTW, I don't tink the topic fully belongs to the Accesories.

It's not a question which product to buy, but how much current hybrid Honda actually uses when powering on from 12V.
Anybody able to point to some data on it please let me know!

Yeah could be an offtopic as well, its an accessory, person is lookingfor a jump starter not a problem of a car.

 

I see where you are going however it is the PCU that determines when to start the ICE. The SOC of your drive battery is the prime factor when you are not moving.

You can force a cold engine start by turning the heat on as well.

It appears that you are focused on duration of power supply from a jump starter however I believe it is irrelevant as your intent is not to start the engine.

The portable jump starters are designed to start an ICE (peak power) which is part of your original question. Powering up the electronics is the function of the 12V battery. 12V is 12V regardless of the source so if your amperage demand is much lower than your starter draw you would logically have ample power to run your electronics.

Additionally, based on what you wrote, you have killed your 12V FLA battery 3X now. You might want to replace it before it fails which will be in your near future.

The earlier suggestion to go to a Lithium battery is not IMO, a good idea as your system does not have the proper charger for the higher voltage requirement. There are AGM batteries for EV’s available now.

Food for thought: Since I must disconnect the 12V battery to charge it or check the water, I use an external battery to save the computer memory. Since I have run the computer (and interior lights) on the battery in the photo, why would a portable jump start battery not provide the same function.

Also, your drive battery will not power the car very long even if was at 100% when you parked and charging a dead 12V will not happen in the time it takes to discharge the drive battery leading to an ICE start.

I’m thinking a pre departure checklist for turning the lights off and a new battery would be a good strategy.

 

It appears that you are focused on duration of power supply from a jump starter however I believe it is irrelevant as your intent is not to start the engine.

Hi, thank for the reply!

This is coming from I actually don't know how much time the full power-on process lasts (self checks, starting the components etc).
With normal engine it's just pretty clear, engine is workking = success. AGM battery is a good idea, but I was thinking about something smaller, which could double as phone charger etc. All the NOCO and similar devices tend to have relatively small Li capacity to have maximum Amp ratio as a selling point (how BIG engines you can start).

As to checklist - yes, but tell that to my wife
BTW is still think this is a design flaw. E.g. when you are parking and the radio is playing, if that takes too long against the current state, each modern car will switch off eventually. Position lights are thought to be left on even when car is closed, but there should be the same logic here: if the 12v battery is drained too much, they should be switched off. I had older cars that did this and never ever experienced such a problem before.

BTW that also makes me worried when using electric tailgate in winter. Let's say you're packing from a lodge on your own, it's like -10 C (14 F) and you don't want to keep the tailgate open so to not freeze the car inside. So you're doing this 1-2-3-4-5-6 times (ah - that last forgotten bag) and starting to pray if there's enough left to start the car

 

As the engine is started by the HV battery, the underhood battery only needs enough charge to allow communication, right? That is, even a very minimally charged battery will allow an engine start.

 

Yes and No. It is the 2nd motor in the motor/generator that starts the gas engine. The 2nd motor gets its juice from the HV battery.

If the 12V battery is toast you could power up the computer(s) from as small battery as I do but to go through the deado battery methinks you might encounter a low voltage issue.

If you have to jumpstart to get going, it would be a good idea to remove the battery terminal connectors and, after checking the battery, charge it to full capacity before returning it to service.

It is also my understanding that the dc2dc charging strategy only charges the 12v battery to about 80%. If true, I fail to follow the logic used to determine that to be optimum. It would make more sense if we were talking about LiFePo4 cells.

 

Regarding tha battery, it was check edafter 1st and 2nd depletion and was said that's still ok. Have the printout from the dealer.

But I'm going to exchange it for stronger one that fits if that's finished.

 

When a hybrid Honda vehicle powers on, it does not draw a large amount of current from the 12V battery. The 12V battery in a Honda hybrid primarily serves as a buffer and initial power source for the vehicle's electronics and control systems, rather than providing the main power for starting the engine. Here's a breakdown of how the 12V system functions in a Honda hybrid:

Initial power-up: The 12V battery provides the initial power to "wake up" the vehicle's computers and control systems

. This requires relatively little current compared to starting a traditional combustion engine.
Buffer function: The 12V battery acts as a buffer for the vehicle's low-voltage electrical systems
. It helps maintain stable voltage for various electronic components.
DC-DC converter: After the initial start-up, a DC-DC converter takes power from the high-voltage hybrid (IMA) battery and converts it to 12V to power the vehicle's electrical systems and recharge the 12V battery as needed
.
Minimal drain during normal operation: Under normal circumstances, the 12V battery experiences minimal drain during vehicle operation, as the DC-DC converter supplies most of the power for the 12V systems
.
Cold weather considerations: In very cold conditions, the 12V battery may need to provide power for starting the gasoline engine using a traditional starter motor, which would require more current

. However, this is not the typical operating mode for hybrid Hondas.

It's important to note that the 12V battery in a Honda hybrid is not responsible for powering the main hybrid drive system or starting the engine under normal conditions. The high-voltage hybrid battery handles those tasks. The 12V battery's role is primarily to support the vehicle's electronics and serve as a backup power source when needed.

 

As stated before, the 12V battery does not start the engine. It just turns on the computers, then the hybrid battery is connected and it is used from there on.

So if your 12V battery dies, you don't need a huge amount of power to get the vehicle started. Pretty much any small 12V starter should do the job without any issues.