[thisaznboi88]

What year is your CRV?

refer to post 132... You already asked me.. 2005

There is no plastic battery tray just the metal support. Battery is AGM so it can take a lot more abuse from the elements

 

[Maine]

I have a 2006 CR-V that I bought this past summer. I love it by the way! It has manual shift. It had 200K miles on it but was very clean and from NC which is a plus given what salt does to cars here in Maine.

Anyway, from the get go the starting has always sounded like it was "struggling" - kind of like the "uh oh" feeling you get when you think it won't start. Once when I was using a small air pump to fill a tire it would not start after - had to jump it. Then on a cold morning (20 degrees) it gave a couple of strained grinds and the battery was dead and I had to jump it. With winter approaching I was concerned and bought a new Deka 51 size with 425cca - that's what the battery place said to use (I had not read this forum at that point!). Same deal. Could not start the car when it was cold.

I have to do this mod out of necessity (really Honda?!) and will let you know how it goes.

Thanks for all the great advice here.

Will in Maine

 

[Maine]

So I went back to where I bought the battery and he put a meter on it. Although it says 450cca on the battery it tested at 665cca - he said Dekas are known for that. That is when it was warm though.

So I am thinking maybe starter now? How often do those fail/die? Can they die a slow death, drawing more starting amps as they go down?

Again the car has 208K and is a 2006.

thanks,

Will

 

[downloader]

check both cables, should have no frays and good solid connections. If you have access to an inductive amp meter you can test the draw from the starter. Sounds like your starter is on the way out, they don't last for ever. I suggest changing it, the cost of a tow is almost the cost of a starter

 

[Maine]

DL - I assume it would be best to test with this meter when the car is is cold? I can drop it off tonight and have him check tomorrow.

Not knowing much about it - what would a failing starter draw vs. a new one?

thanks

 

[downloader]

a good starter should draw 250-300 amps when cranking.

 

[FLCRV]

Thanks for the pics and your comments. One question, you said you flattened the metal battery support. It appears in pics that was the lip that doesn't have the j-bolt attaching to it and did you take that piece out of the vehicle to do that?

 

[FLCRV]

I installed a 24F Battery in our 06 CRV today. I flattened the metal battery mounting bracket as thisaznboi88 did with his. I removed the metal bracket for this, more on this when I post a picture or two. I did use the Odyssey Battery tray and cover. I positioned the tray to the metal bracket so the end of the tray was in the same position to the metal bracket as the original battery tray. To my pleasant surprise this also positioned the the two pieces so the J bolt notches in the plastic and it's hole in the metal bracket lined up perfect. I used a c-clamp vise grip to clamp the parts and drilled 1/4" hole in the tray using holes in the metal bracket as guides and used some plastic retainers to secure the tray in place on the Bracket.

 

[FLCRV]

Nearly complete, I say nearly as I need to adjust the fit a little bit. But the picture shows close enough on the left to right fit puts the cross battery strap right in the middle of the battery. The battery tray is secured to the metal bracket.

 

[HerrKaLeun]

I just installed my 24F battery in my 2013 CRV and confirm everything works as described here.

I ordered the base and cover bottom tray. I ordered them from hondaprtsnow since that was cheaper than amazon ($22 inc. shipping), but took almost a week to arrive. So keep that in mind in case you are in a time crunch. One could jury-rig the original base if desperate. I assume the cover protects from heat, so it was worth the $7 or what it added to me.
Base part#: 31521-TK8-A00
Cover part# 31531-TK8-A00

I bought a 24F battery from Walmart for $48 (their value type with 1 year warranty). The same Walmart battery with 5 year (3 year full) warranty is $93. the original 51R only exist in the "better" brand and would have been $107 at W-mart. So I already saved quite some money and got a larger battery. My take is much of the cost of the more expensive Walmart brand is the added warranty. Either brand are from Johnson Control.

Installation was easy, the base is just laying in there (no screws). You want to test out that you install it the right way so the J-hook and the metal bracket that gets screwed on line up. I also didn't need to re-program my radio (even bluetooth still recognized my phone).
Something to consider:
- the Honda cables are very tight. For the "black-" I had to disconnect one of them to make room to lift the old battery out, and the new one in. For the "red+" I didn't see an easy way to disconnect, so I had to rig it around to get the new larger batter and the new cover in. I have to tilt the new batter a bit, but no acid ran out.
- With the old battery I had felt-spacers under the connectors. With the spacers I couldn't get the " black-" tight on, so I removed them. Also the cover seemed a bit in the way and push the "-" cable up. But all good once the spacers are removed.
- the cables are very tight with new battery. You want to route them properly before you fasten anything. Some people here talked about installing an even larger battery, i think then you stretch the cables too much or have to install longer cables. Not sure if that is worth.
- with the too-small 51R battery i couldn't open the battery acid covers to check fluid-levels and cell charge (yes i do that) because the bracket was concealing at least one of the covers. This 24F battery keeps the two covers free and i will be able to check fluid levels easily.

Something on batteries: I see in this country it is about cold-crank amps (CCA), but not capacity (Ah or Wh as it is in Europe). Two same batteries with different CCA actually have the same capacity (Ah). The difference is the higher CCA battery has thinner, larger lead plates for higher surface to create more Amps. the problem with that is, thinner plates ear out more. So there is a trae-off, the higehr CCA doesn't let you crank more times or lets you use the radio linger when motor is off. The one i bought had 585 CCA. OEM had 410 CCA (i read here, wasn't written on), and the 51R from Walmart had 500 CCA. teh 24F Everstart from Walmart had over 700 CCA. bu ti figured i went from 410 CCA that didn't give me problems for 3.5 years to 585, that ought to be enough.

something to Honda: normally my batteries last 6-7 years from new OEM. This one needs replacement after 3.5 years. When I bought the car new I saw the battery is a bit small. I also know the Honda Fit we have at work are on a charger all the time because their "motorcycle battery" doesn't last. Overall a good car. But next time I go car-shopping, I watch our for that. I also see the wire gauge you are using, I would not use that small wire, but am too lazy and stinchy to replace the wiring. Seriously under-engineered. Especially a car with AWD, that you advertise to be better in winter... but only if the battery can start the darn thing.

 

[20CRVEX13]

We're about to join the upgrade club. I've got the parts (thanks for posting the part numbers) and all I need is a new battery to put in. I'm thinking it might pay to do it sooner rather than wait for it to become a problem of 'Honey, the car won't start.'

 

[20CRVEX13]

We joined the club today.
I'd suggest re-routing the negative cable so it follows the air intake. You can do this by removing the chassis lug bolt and routing it around the battery box mount. The other end of the cable, which attaches to the battery post, won't fit between the air intake and mount, hence the removal of the other end of the cable.

 

[kw_da]

Has anyone gotten this 24F upgrade to work on a gen3 CRV? I just went thru the 16 page discussion and didn't see any. I'd hate to order the parts & new battery and have it not work. Might need to replace an old battery. Our CRV is 2009.

thanks

 

[downunder47]

I did that and discovered...

Has anyone gotten this 24F upgrade to work on a gen3 CRV? I just went thru the 16 page discussion and didn't see any. I'd hate to order the parts & new battery and have it not work. Might need to replace an old battery. Our CRV is 2009. thanks

For a 2010 EXL, I bought the box, cover, cross strap, and a 24F Exide super battery from Home Depot. Will fit EXCEPT the large radiator hose is in the way!

To get the battery in it will shove a dent more than 1/2" deep into the radiator hose which I am not willing to risk.

Returned the battery and gave up.

BTW, the old battery is about 6 1/2 years old and still going strong. While it was out I noticed it says "Manufactured for American Honda by Johnson Controls, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 410 CCA! I checked the water a few months ago and added very little. I decided to let it run 'till it dies just to see how long it will last, then replace it with one from Walmart.

 

[FLCRV]

For a 2010 EXL, I bought the box, cover, cross strap, and a 24F Exide super battery from Home Depot. Will fit EXCEPT the large radiator hose is in the way!

To get the battery in it will shove a dent more than 1/2" deep into the radiator hose which I am not willing to risk.

Was that the upper radiator or the air intake?

This thread is written for using a 24F battery Some info on batteries I recently found out. I have found that a 34R is 1" shorter in height, with the same length and width as a 24F. In most cases a 34R carries the same power rateings as a 24F. The Duracell AGM battery at Sams is labeled as 24F/34RAGM. It cames with a 1" plastic spacer to clip on the bottom of the battery to achieve the 24F height. This might help in some installs. Wish I could send pictures, but can't get then to transfer from phone to computer.

 

[downunder47]

Good info here.

Was that the upper radiator or the air intake?

This thread is written for using a 24F battery Some info on batteries I recently found out. I have found that a 34R is 1" shorter in height, with the same length and width as a 24F. In most cases a 34R carries the same power rateings as a 24F. The Duracell AGM battery at Sams is labeled as 24F/34RAGM. It cames with a 1" plastic spacer to clip on the bottom of the battery to achieve the 24F height. This might help in some installs. Wish I could send pictures, but can't get then to transfer from phone to computer.

Definitely the Upper Radiator Hose. Once in place there is no contact with the air intake.

Another issue of concern is the bottom plate has sharp turned up edges that cradle the 51R, but the larger battery will sit on - I fear they will eventually damage the bottom of the 24F. This 34R with 1" spacer may well alleviate this issue?

 

[kw_da]

For a 2010 EXL, I bought the box, cover, cross strap, and a 24F Exide super battery from Home Depot. Will fit EXCEPT the large radiator hose is in the way!

To get the battery in it will shove a dent more than 1/2" deep into the radiator hose which I am not willing to risk.

Returned the battery and gave up.

BTW, the old battery is about 6 1/2 years old and still going strong. While it was out I noticed it says "Manufactured for American Honda by Johnson Controls, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 410 CCA! I checked the water a few months ago and added very little. I decided to let it run 'till it dies just to see how long it will last, then replace it with one from Walmart.

Thanks for the reply - saved us a lot of trouble. I guess it's the 51R then.

 

[schreibers]

New Gen3 owner here. I purchased everything for this mod a couple months ago and went to install a 24F battery today as this latest cold snap did a number on the OEM battery.

I think if you cut the Odyssey tray where it starts to flare and cut/bend the one hook mounting flange by the air box, the bigger tray will work as well as the 24F battery. As it is there is no way the tray "just fits" in on our 2010 LX due to the duct and air box support bracket bar. I even tried the X2 Power 24F w/out any tray just on the metal base and couldn't get it to sit flat (due to the tie down flange). Another member did make it work but there were some valid points regarding balancing the plastic tray on top of the hold down J hook flanges. As previously mentioned you may have to remove the battery for air filter replacements. If it wasn't winter i'd make it fit, but for now I just got an Exide AGM 51R. Thanks everyone for your contributions!

 

[Maine]

Replacing the starter fixed my issue. My 'regular' sized new battery, Deka, was measured at 660cca and was not the issue. Local garage did it for $320. I will post back if I have more issues. thanks

 

[Longone1]

New CRV owner here. Purchased a 2014 EXL 10-25-16 and had the battery go dead last week. Put the charger on it for an hour and it started right away. I put a volt meter on it and watched the voltage climb slowly to 14 volts. After 3 calls to the dealership that morning ( no return calls) I finally got to speak to a service advisor who told me to bring it in. Dealer replaced the battery with the 500 CCA battery, I thought to myself that is not something the dealers would not normally do, ( put a optional battery in place of a std. one) their normal thinking is if you want an upgrade you will pay for it.

So that set my suspicious mind going and found this thread, great read, unfortunate, but great read. I ordered the battery tray and cover today in preparation of things to come.

One thing I did do was to check the battery voltage after sitting outside overnight in freezing weather before starting, it was 12 volts, should have been a bit higher, around 12.5-12.6. But the interesting thing happened after it started, it has an aftermarket remote start so I was able to watch the volt meter (analog) needle go to about 10 volts as it was cranking and then when it started the needle dropped like a rock to about 6 volts and went right back up just as quickly.

To me, something put a huge load on the system for a millisecond and if this happens with any regularity that will cause damage to the battery. This is most likely not being picked up with a digital meter, curious if anyone else has seen this happen?