[Cyberbid]

Item 21 on this link >>> CYLINDER BLOCK/OIL PAN(DI ESEL)('09) for Honda CR-V DIESEL 2.2 ES 5 Doors 6 speed manual 2009 # HONDA CARS - Genuine Spare Parts Catalogue

This is spot on! Thanks for the link!

 

[Cyberbid]

@Cyberbid wow! I've just clocked how many miles your Vee has done! 😳 Nice! 😎

Yes she has done quite a few miles, getting a little rusty underneath now though

 

[Cyberbid]

I thought it was on the front of the block just above the sump, but I could be wrong on that. 🤔

Looks like you were right after all. I will have to try and look again today

 

[Cyberbid]

I would like to ask for advice on changing this sensor before I do it. I have not long changed the oil and wish I had given it more thought prior to this.
if I take this sensor out will I need to drain all the oil out of the sump before I remove it and then put it back in again once its changed? Because, if the oil is at 3/4 full then surly given the angle of that sensor on the front lower part of the engine I will get oil pouring out of there and it could be very messy indeed.
Hope this doesn’t seem like a stupid question, I am just new to sensor/switch related issues.

 

[Cyberbid]

I would think you would be OK. Yes, there will be residual oil spilling out from the oil gallery, but other than that, the main oil level should be lower in the sump. 🤷‍♂️

Ok. I will see how it goes. Thanks for taking the time to respond 👍🏻

 

[Cyberbid]

You will be okay no need to drain the sump, but you will have a little dribble from the oil gallery.

Ok, good to know, thanks.

 

[Cyberbid]

I did an experiment yesterday, I unplugged the sensor and went out for a few hours. Odd thing was it behaved exactly the same as if it was still plugged in. The oil light was not on when I started the car which is normal and after about 15/20 minutes the oil light came on as per usual.
Question is do I bother changing the sensor? I probably will just so I know its been replaced, but even with it unplugged it behaves exactly the same.
Not sure what else I would try to fix this oil light?

 

[Cyberbid]

Good question 🤔 I wonder if the PCM is not always receiving a signal from the oil pressure sender, and that's why it flags up a yellow oil warning??

By that logic, changing the pressure sender should fix the issue. Only other thing I could think it being is a broken wire/bad earth 🤷‍♂️

I have changed the sensor but sadly the oil light still comes on. How do I check for a bad earth etc?
Not sure what else to try.

 

[Cyberbid]

With the oil pressure sensor unplugged you should not be seeing any oil warning lights on your dashboard, which leads me to believe the oil sensor is okay and you may have a problem with the dashboard cluster ballast resistor.

Now I don’t know of hand if your engine has a oil temperature sensor, and your ECM may be picking up signals from this sensor.

I would be inclined to use a handheld oil pressure gauge and check the actual oil pressure at the gallery point first were you unplug the oil sensor and confirm you have a good oil pressure.

If the oil pressure is good then you might want to get your dashboard cluster checked, but I am sure you should be seeing some OBB error codes on any of these items.

Have you checked for any active or logged error fault codes?

Hi Kev, thanks for your reply.
I have never heard of a dashboard cluster ballast resistor! Hope its easy to get to or test?
I have looked at the exploded view of my engine and I don’t think it has an oil temperature sensor.
I have changed the oil pressure sensor and it was a sod to do. I will have to buy a long reach socket to get it back off again to check the oil pressure as I had to break the plastic off of the old one just to get a socket on it to turn it due to lack of space down there.
I do have an oil pressure testing kit here but I have never used it but providing I can get the sensor off again I should be fine using it.
I do have an Autel Maxi Link ML629 OBD II Scanner and I am sure I have erased codes in the past for other sensors etc so I am not sure if it would show up or not on my scanner?
How do I go about getting the dashboard cluster checked?

 

[Cyberbid]

There are quite a few videos relating to this subject and a I recall a post in the Mk3 forum also showing how to test.

Having done a quick search, myself watch this video and proceed at your own discretion >>> LINK

The above will show any problems or errors with the cluster.

If you have a good diagnostic tool, sorry not familiar with your particular diagnostic tool, but a good quality tool should be capable of seeing the oil pressure be transmitted to the ECU.

If your diagnostic tool is not capable of viewing this data, it may be worth getting it checked at your local garage / Honda dealer and obtain a diagnostic report.

Thanks Kev, I will have a look at the dash cluster test first and I see how that goes. As for seeing the oil pressure data to the ecu I will see what I can get done. Thank you for this.

 

[Cyberbid]

There are quite a few videos relating to this subject and a I recall a post in the Mk3 forum also showing how to test.

Having done a quick search, myself watch this video and proceed at your own discretion >>> LINK

The above will show any problems or errors with the cluster.

If you have a good diagnostic tool, sorry not familiar with your particular diagnostic tool, but a good quality tool should be capable of seeing the oil pressure be transmitted to the ECU.

If your diagnostic tool is not capable of viewing this data, it may be worth getting it checked at your local garage / Honda dealer and obtain a diagnostic report.

I have just performed the cluster check and it all went well. All lights lit up and no faults are visible.
So, onto the oil pressure test I guess. I will write down what it reads and post it here.

 

[Cyberbid]

There are quite a few videos relating to this subject and a I recall a post in the Mk3 forum also showing how to test.

Having done a quick search, myself watch this video and proceed at your own discretion >>> LINK

The above will show any problems or errors with the cluster.

If you have a good diagnostic tool, sorry not familiar with your particular diagnostic tool, but a good quality tool should be capable of seeing the oil pressure be transmitted to the ECU.

If your diagnostic tool is not capable of viewing this data, it may be worth getting it checked at your local garage / Honda dealer and obtain a diagnostic report.

Heh Kev I am doing the oil pressure check atm with a manual gauge. The manual mentions checking the oil pressure with the engine running at normal operating temperature at the specified engine speed but it does not tell you what that speed actually is which isn't helpful. I don’t suppose you have a rough idea do you?

 

[Cyberbid]

There are quite a few videos relating to this subject and a I recall a post in the Mk3 forum also showing how to test.

Having done a quick search, myself watch this video and proceed at your own discretion >>> LINK

The above will show any problems or errors with the cluster.

If you have a good diagnostic tool, sorry not familiar with your particular diagnostic tool, but a good quality tool should be capable of seeing the oil pressure be transmitted to the ECU.

If your diagnostic tool is not capable of viewing this data, it may be worth getting it checked at your local garage / Honda dealer and obtain a diagnostic report.

This was the pressure after 20 minutes running on idle.

This was the pressure when revved at 3000rpm

 

[Cyberbid]

There are quite a few videos relating to this subject and a I recall a post in the Mk3 forum also showing how to test.

Having done a quick search, myself watch this video and proceed at your own discretion >>> LINK

The above will show any problems or errors with the cluster.

If you have a good diagnostic tool, sorry not familiar with your particular diagnostic tool, but a good quality tool should be capable of seeing the oil pressure be transmitted to the ECU.

If your diagnostic tool is not capable of viewing this data, it may be worth getting it checked at your local garage / Honda dealer and obtain a diagnostic report.

This was the oil pressure on idle for 20 mins to get her up to normal temperature

And this was the oil pressure at normal operating temperature revved at 3000rpm

 

[Cyberbid]

For some reason I cannot post my pics of the oil pressure readings which is annoying.
When the engine was running on idle for 20 mins the reading was 50 psi.
When the engine was up to temperature and revved at 3000rpm the reading was 60 psi.

 

[Cyberbid]

Looks like it was delayed with my posts so apologies for posting the pics twice, it wasn’t showing at my end

 

[Cyberbid]

YOUR POST delay was probably due to the size of your photos and duplication of post.

oil pressure varies depending on the car brand and model and engine health, but generally ideal oil pressure of between 25-65 PSI is considered good, hence your oil pressure is absolutely spot on.

While you were testing the oil pressure did you notice any momentary fluctuations in the readings? The reason why I ask this question is to note that the oil pump relief valve is working okay.

You have eliminated the dash cluster and the oil sensor as being the problem – At this point can I ask you to confirm whether you still have the flashing amber oil flashing light?

I will await your answer.

Hello Kev, when I took the readings I didn't get any fluctuations at all on the gauge, only when the wife accelerated up to 3000rpm.
Should it have had fluctuations then to show the oil pump relief valve is working?
Also, the amber oil light has always been static, I failed to add that minor detail from the start so sorry about that. It has never flashed or been red.
It just comes on solid amber after 20 minutes of driving and doesn't go out until you turn the engine off. The time is slightly earlier when it comes on with a warm engine.
Hope this helps Kev

 

[Cyberbid]

You may have not noticed the gauge fluctuations if you weren’t looking for them, so I would ignore this because your oil pressure is okay.

Having taken your new comment into account (amber light on solid after 20 minutes) I think your problem is either interference along the wiring to the ECM, or you may have an issue with the ECM itself, hence I would advise you to seek professional assistance from a good auto electrician, or Honda themselves.
It could also be your engine oil level sensor and you will need Honda to check this for you - But see / watch this vid >>>

Before you go paying above try disconnecting your battery for say one hour to reset your ECM and see how you go.

One last thing are you 100 percent sure you do not have any active or historical error fault codes?

Heh Kev, I have unplugged the battery so we can see how that goes shortly.
I spent some time with my plug in computer yesterday and I cannot see any old historical error fault codes. In the past I have erased codes so its possible due to my lack of knowledge I have deleted them if they were on there.
I will take it for a drive today and see how it goes. If the light comes on I will order the oil level sensor and try that next.
Just a little off topic, I used 0w 30 oil when I did my oil change only around 4 weeks ago and its already jet black. Due to the high mileage should I use a thicker oil if I change that oil level sensor? As I will have to drain it again as per the video.

 

[Cyberbid]

You could try unplugging the oil level sensor when you go on a road test.

Regarding your oil – I would suggest you stick with your 0w 30 fully synthetic oil and yes, I know the 5w 30 is cheaper, but your engine will obtain a better fuel economy with the 0w 30 oil.
See attached pdf Honda TSB relating to oil type.

I have got back from being out today and I have unplugged the oil level sensor so I will test that out tomorrow first thing.
Regarding the oil I will stick to what you said and use 0w 30.
Thanks again for your time Kev it is appreciated 👍🏻