Here we go again. There’s everything and everyone in this spectrum.

Some change every 3000 miles and swear by it. I have been changing my fully synthetics every 9600 to 12.5K miles for the past two decades (cold and dry climate, I manage about 8-10 cars on average at all times) and never had an issue with oil burning on having to add any between changes. The highest mileages have been 190K, still tight with no rattles or oil burning.

 

Your 2007 CR-V has a Maintenance Minder feature which reminds you when service is due.
One of those function is an Engine Oil Life Display, that includes the ability to display the Engine Oil Life % remaining.

You really should read that section, as the idea of changing the oil every 3,000 miles is very outdated.
While my first CR-V, which was a 1999 model, didn't have the Maintenance Minder function, there was a section in the Owners Manual that described Normal and Severe driving conditions, and then had a Normal and Severe maintenance schedule. Even under the Severe schedule the oil change interval was 3,750 miles, while "Normal" was 7,500 miles.

The Owners Manual has a section on oil viscosity and type. The 2008 Owners Manual that I'm looking at says to use 5w-20, and also says:

Synthetic Oil
You may use a synthetic motor oil if
it meets the same requirements
given for a conventional motor oil: it
displays the API certification seal,
and it is the proper weight. You must
follow the oil and filter change
intervals shown on the information
display.

So even if you use synthetic oil, Honda says you still have to follow the Maintenance Minder.

 

Your 2007 CR-V has a Maintenance Minder feature which reminds you when service is due.
One of those function is an Engine Oil Life Display, that includes the ability to display the Engine Oil Life % remaining.

You really should read that section, as the idea of changing the oil every 3,000 miles is very outdated.
While my first CR-V, which was a 1999 model, didn't have the Maintenance Minder function, there was a section in the Owners Manual that described Normal and Severe driving conditions, and then had a Normal and Severe maintenance schedule. Even under the Severe schedule the oil change interval was 3,750 miles, while "Normal" was 7,500 miles.

The Owners Manual has a section on oil viscosity and type. The 2008 Owners Manual that I'm looking at says to use 5w-20, and also says:



So even if you use synthetic oil, Honda says you still have to follow the Maintenance Minder.

Thank you for your comment.

I no longer take my my car to the dealership. My main mechanic told me it was best to change the motor oil every 3,000 miles. My mechanic isn't trying to sell an oil job to me. I have now used 2 other garages and they say the same thing because of the intense heat.

I have read the manual section on oil viscosity. I was just curious if switching over to synthetic would be a good idea.

Thank you for your help!

 

I understand that you trust your mechanic, but do you also trust Honda?
They designed and built your engine, and they designed the Maintenance Minder system to help you take good care of it.

And I will tell you that almost every time I take my CR-V into the local Honda dealer for a service visit, usually an oil and filter change, but also transmission and rear differential fluid, the service writer always tries to sell me services I don't need. And remember that the shop you go to, whether an independent shop or a the service department at a Honda dealer, makes their money by selling you more services.

And I'm curious about the "intense heat" comment. Yes, I know that Texas is going to be a bit warmer than it is here in Tennessee, but the air temperature really has nothing to do with the engine operating temperature. Whether it's over 100 F in the shade, or there''s snow and ice on the ground, once you're driving down the road and your engine has warmed up, the engine temperature is going to be around 200 F. And if the "intense heat" comment is about the engine operating temperature we're back to Honda knows your engine better than your mechanic.

 

2006 CR-V 229,778 miles. 4 quarts in. 4 quarts out. I changed to synthetic within 500 miles of buying the car new. I changed my oil every 10,000. However I changed my filter each 5000 miles. I have always used Castrol Synthetic. I have always done my own periodic maintenance. A shop I trust did my clutch and rear wheel bearings. As a side note. I never want to have to change the starter again.

 

Hi there fellow CRV neighbors,

Well, here is another post asking which is best to use: motor oil or synthetic oil. I have read the many posts and there are different opinions about this topic. I just had my oil changed and I have only used motor oil so far as well as the previous owner. I have my oil changed every 3,000 miles. Living in a very hot climate this has been advised and I follow it. My conversation with the mechanic was such that he felt for the next oil change and thereafter to be synthetic. It will be better for the longevity of the car. Then I was told I would only have to change out the oil every 5,000 miles. I have a 2007 with approximately 123,000 miles.

My question is: Since I have more miles now would it indeed be better to switch over to synthetic oil? By the way, I intend to keep this car for as long as possible. I may go before it does.

I am sure this is a never ending topic. Thank you for all replies.

When you have some time, the link below will help you to better understand motor oil facts, myths and provide you with way more valid info than opinions. One of the most important facts you can take from Dr. A. E. Haas's article is "better oil flow equals better lubrication" and the lower the 1st number (0WXX vs 5WXX), the better the oil flow at less than operating temp. Happy reading.

Motor Oil

Trying to understand motor oil

www.positivespin.us

 

Do NOT TRUST MAINTENANCE REMINDERS.

They are there for those that are too lazy and incompetent to properly care for their vehicle. So they create those simply to make sure the vehicle survives till warranty expires.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

Hi there fellow CRV neighbors,

Well, here is another post asking which is best to use: motor oil or synthetic oil. I have read the many posts and there are different opinions about this topic. I just had my oil changed and I have only used motor oil so far as well as the previous owner. I have my oil changed every 3,000 miles. Living in a very hot climate this has been advised and I follow it. My conversation with the mechanic was such that he felt for the next oil change and thereafter to be synthetic. It will be better for the longevity of the car. Then I was told I would only have to change out the oil every 5,000 miles. I have a 2007 with approximately 123,000 miles.

My question is: Since I have more miles now would it indeed be better to switch over to synthetic oil? By the way, I intend to keep this car for as long as possible. I may go before it does.

I am sure this is a never ending topic. Thank you for all replies.

I thought long and hard on this, too, and in the end, I decided to stick with conventional organic (liquid dinosaur) oil and not synthetic. First, my engine has about 93k on it, all on conventional oil. Second, synthetic oil tends to leak through gaskets and seals more easily, and I don't like oil leaks. Third, synthetic is more expensive. Fourth, I prefer fresh oil every 3k miles, as it has always worked well for me, and I wouldn't trust synthetic to last longer between changes. There is no definitive proof that it does last longer or is better. Fifth, yes, living in a high-heat climate is different, and warrants extra consideration in all things maintenance-related.

And, no, Honda is not more trustworthy than your ace mechanic. Also, never go by the maintenance minder or owner's manual. Honda wants to sell more cars, and they will always point you in a direction that leads to that point, using any and every trick possible. They also want to smoke every dime possible out of your pocket at any and every opportunity in between, in maintenance and repairs. There is no profit or future for them in advising you the best ways to take the best care of your car.

I'm perfectly okay with those who choose synthetic, but I think it's a choice better made when a car is new. So I'm sticking with conventional, and I would advise the same for you. It's less expensive, better proven, and is what your car is already used to.

 

I thought long and hard on this, too, and in the end, I decided to stick with conventional organic (liquid dinosaur) oil and not synthetic. First, my engine has about 93k on it, all on conventional oil. Second, synthetic oil tends to leak through gaskets and seals more easily, and I don't like oil leaks. Third, synthetic is more expensive. Fourth, I prefer fresh oil every 3k miles, as it has always worked well for me, and I wouldn't trust synthetic to last longer between changes. There is no definitive proof that it does last longer or is better. Fifth, yes, living in a high-heat climate is different, and warrants extra consideration in all things maintenance-related.

And, no, Honda is not more trustworthy than your ace mechanic. Also, never go by the maintenance minder or owner's manual. Honda wants to sell more cars, and they will always point you in a direction that leads to that point, using any and every trick possible. They also want to smoke every dime possible out of your pocket at any and every opportunity in between, in maintenance and repairs. There is no profit or future for them in advising you the best ways to take the best care of your car.

I'm perfectly okay with those who choose synthetic, but I think it's a choice better made when a car is new. So I'm sticking with conventional, and I would advise the same for you. It's less expensive, better proven, and is what your car is already used to.

To each his own but FYI there is A LOT OF definitive proof synthetic is better. Reason why almost all new vehicles require it now. As well as any mechanic worth their paycheck are all in agreement with synthetic. There are alot of later model vehicles using conventional voids the warranty. The last few years most manufacturers have started requiring synthetic.

Now no way in hell I would run it to 10k miles between changes (that's just ignorant and pray for the poor sole who buys it used) but the cost of synthetic is balanced by the time it lasts compared to conventional.

So if it works for you running conventional (and your vehicle allows for it as I believe all but the new Vs do) and changing more often, go for it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

conventional ... better proven.

lol

 

Guys, I am not dissing synthetic, and in fact I have had quite positive results with synthetic in my motorcycles, such as my FZ1. I also know it is required in some vehicles, though I think much of that is hype and not necessarily scientifically proven need. However, in this thread we are talking specifically about Gen3 CR-Vs with around or over 100k miles on them, which have used conventional oil up to now. So comments related to later models have no bearing here. Get it? Bearing? Sorry, I had to do that.

If I was running a new model, I would use the synthetic oil specified. But I'm not and never will be, so no need to go into that arena. If I total my '07 tomorrow, I will go look again for an '06 with a 5-speed, or barring that, another Gen3. Whatever, I'll stick with conventional oil. You may choose to advocate for synthetic in these cars if you like, but I will stand by my decision, and I think it will work out just fine, thanks. Does that make me old school? To me it's just common sense.

 

Guys, I am not dissing synthetic, and in fact I have had quite positive results with synthetic in my motorcycles, such as my FZ1. I also know it is required in some vehicles, though I think much of that is hype and not necessarily scientifically proven need. However, in this thread we are talking specifically about Gen3 CR-Vs with around or over 100k miles on them, which have used conventional oil up to now. So comments related to later models have no bearing here. Get it? Bearing? Sorry, I had to do that.

If I was running a new model, I would use the synthetic oil specified. But I'm not and never will be, so no need to go into that arena. If I total my '07 tomorrow, I will go look again for an '06 with a 5-speed, or barring that, another Gen3. Whatever, I'll stick with conventional oil. You may choose to advocate for synthetic in these cars if you like, but I will stand by my decision, and I think it will work out just fine, thanks. Does that make me old school? To me it's just common sense.

All fair points and expressed well in the context different generation CRVs.

 

The USA Gen V manual says synthetic oil may ALSO be used.......as if 0W20 is even offered in conventional. It's not, but who's to say 0W20 conventional oil will never be offered.

Other countries show 5W30 in the Gen V manual and we all know 5W30 is offered in both conventional and synthetic. I do not see anywhere in the USA manual that synthetic oil MUST be used in the Gen V CRV. Maybe I missed it.

I am not familiar with the 2007 CRV manual.......I suspect it does not say synthetic oil MUST be used, as the 2017 manual says.

 

The USA Gen V manual says synthetic oil may ALSO be used.......as if 0W20 is even offered in conventional. It's not, but who's to say 0W20 conventional oil will never be offered.

I am not familiar with the 2007 CRV manual.......I suspect it does not say synthetic oil MUST be used, as the 2017 manual says.

I think with Honda, it's always more about the industry specifications for the oil to be used, rather then synth vs non-synth. Of course for engines where they specify 0W20.... it is by default synthetic, or perhaps a blend. I doubt any oil producer is going to bother making a non-synth 0W20 oil so the debate will likely never take place for 0W20.

Other countries show 5W30 in the Gen V manual and we all know 5W30 is offered in both conventional and synthetic. I do not see anywhere in the USA manual that synthetic oil MUST be used in the Gen V CRV. Maybe I missed it.

Interesting. This may be just be different engine configurations in different countries.. or it could be something to do with mpg and emissions standards be more relaxed in some countries.

 

My Gen4 manual says 0W-20 for European models. Others can put pretty much anything there.

 

there we go. short and sweet. keep that up and you'll be a Mod soon. several people think so!

 

I was being generous saying 5W30........10W40 IS acceptable in some manuals.

 

Since this thread was started about and concerns Gen3s, warranty is not an issue. Also, any legal action concerning warranty requirements would have to be able to prove a violation in court, which could easily be quite difficult considering the often vague and frequently conflicting information provided in owner's manuals.

I never change my own oil - I have it changed at a shop, where they properly recycle it. It's not a task that can save you enough money to make it worth doing yourself, unless you have your own shop. I pay materials plus about ten bucks and tax.

 

My local auto shop changes my non-warranty vehicle's engine oil/filter as well. For oil numbers, they use the same oil number on its oil filler cap. And for deep cold 3 months, they switch to winter climate numbers. They change around 6,000 kms or near 3,800 miles - mostly do to my cold climate and/or sometimes Hauling / Towing conditions as well. And, they use normal oil (not synthetic) as well. Been doing this for the last 40 years and never had engine oil related problems. Actually, our vehicle's rust out, have too expensive steering/suspension parts replacement and/or transmission problems before any engine oil related problems. This works for my non-warranty vehicles. If it works this long (re: 40 year positive history), we don't fuss with it. For my warranty vehicle, my local dealer changes its oil/filter. Thus, we point any oil related problem "finger" back to them. And yes, we did have a problem and they could NOT point the break/fix "not under warranty" finger at a different auto shop. Ya. Got them with NO out. L0L! So, they had to fix a $900 "fix it" bill under their own dime. re: The Auto Dealer's Shop over tightened its screw on oil cap and broke its lower filler base. It needed immediate upper engine strip down / rebuild with new parts and gaskets / seals to stop its top side engine oil leak. L0L!

 

I got so many good and viable replies. Both are synthetic and conventional are recommended here.

Thank you all for taking the time to express your views.

 

I got so many good and viable replies. Both are synthetic and conventional are recommended here.

Thank you all for taking the time to express your views.

You did read the "Motor oil" article/link in post #6, right?

 

When the link to that article was first posted, it was broken, so I was unable to read it. But I checked again and it works now, so I was able to read it. Fascinating stuff. One thing I wonder about afterwards is that he says that increased oil pressure leads to increased flow (at operating temp). Back in my racing days, with American V8 engines, I quickly learned the difference between volume and pressure, because high performance oil pumps came in two types - high pressure, and high volume. High pressure pumps gave your typical pushrod valve trains a better survival rate, but at the cost of horsepower, as they used more of it to be driven. High volume pumps gave you more flow and thus a similar result and required less hp to drive. All else depended on your oil galleys - their size, shape, and proper machining. This became even more critical in engines with water cooling removed (for racing). Today's engines have no pushrods, and cam and follower wear is even more critical, but most engines are now mostly aluminum and require better engineered and machined oil galleys. Clearances and tolerances are also more critical in the average consumer vehicle, and are influenced more by use of different materials. With all these things to consider, thinner oils make sense. But it seems to me that comes with its own set of issues. So, I wonder how the tuners of these engines deal with thinner oils in racing, like in F1 and Indy cars, drifting, and drag/street racing, which are going to have similar problems to older ones. Things that were solved in those days with deeper oil pans, baffling, and even dry sump systems, as well as cross-drilling and other galley mods. I would think that thinner oils would have more issues with slosh due to acceleration, hard turning forces, etc., and now, oil dilution and fuel contamination. It would be interesting to hear this guy's take on those things.

Heck, I don't even know what the stock operating oil pressure is on my CR-V. It's hard to tell when all you have to go on is idiot lights.

 

............One thing I wonder about afterwards is that he says that increased oil pressure leads to increased flow..............

Help the dummy (me) out.......where did Dr. Haas make the statement "increased oil pressure leads to increased flow"? It is a rather long article with multiple parts, I must have missed it.

 

Hi there fellow CRV neighbors,

Well, here is another post asking which is best to use: motor oil or synthetic oil. I have read the many posts and there are different opinions about this topic. I just had my oil changed and I have only used motor oil so far as well as the previous owner. I have my oil changed every 3,000 miles. Living in a very hot climate this has been advised and I follow it. My conversation with the mechanic was such that he felt for the next oil change and thereafter to be synthetic. It will be better for the longevity of the car. Then I was told I would only have to change out the oil every 5,000 miles. I have a 2007 with approximately 123,000 miles.

My question is: Since I have more miles now would it indeed be better to switch over to synthetic oil? By the way, I intend to keep this car for as long as possible. I may go before it does.

I am sure this is a never ending topic. Thank you for all replies.

 

Hi there fellow CRV neighbors,

Well, here is another post asking which is best to use: motor oil or synthetic oil. I have read the many posts and there are different opinions about this topic. I just had my oil changed and I have only used motor oil so far as well as the previous owner. I have my oil changed every 3,000 miles. Living in a very hot climate this has been advised and I follow it. My conversation with the mechanic was such that he felt for the next oil change and thereafter to be synthetic. It will be better for the longevity of the car. Then I was told I would only have to change out the oil every 5,000 miles. I have a 2007 with approximately 123,000 miles.

My question is: Since I have more miles now would it indeed be better to switch over to synthetic oil? By the way, I intend to keep this car for as long as possible. I may go before it does.

I am sure this is a never ending topic. Thank you for all replies.

I recommend full synthetic. Synthetic engine oil is superior to standard motor oil. If you intend to keep your vehicle synthetic oil "may" add to longevity depending upon a few unknown factors. Since the vehicle has operated for 123k miles on standard motor oil, all else being equal, the engine has worn a bit more then if full synthetic had been used the whole time. Move to synth oil and use OE oil filter.

I have used full synthetics in my Honda's and Acura since 1982. Kept my 1981 Accord running for 25 years and that engine still had plenty of life remaining.

I spend $25 for synth oil for my 2014 CRV, Mobil 1. Cheap. Change the oil every 5000k. I think the manufacturer change period, 7500k is too lengthy. Synth oil is inexpensive.

 

I recommend full synthetic. Synthetic engine oil is superior to standard motor oil. If you intend to keep your vehicle synthetic oil "may" add to longevity depending upon a few unknown factors. Since the vehicle has operated for 123k miles on standard motor oil, all else being equal, the engine has worn a bit more then if full synthetic had been used the whole time. Move to synth oil and use OE oil filter.

I have used full synthetics in my Honda's and Acura since 1982. Kept my 1981 Accord running for 25 years and that engine still had plenty of life remaining.

I spend $25 for synth oil for my 2014 CRV, Mobil 1. Cheap. Change the oil every 5000k. I think the manufacturer change period, 7500k is too lengthy. Synth oil is inexpensive.

 

Our local Honda dealer recommends the use of the minder, which comes on a 7500 miles on my CRV. They use conventional oils. My last CRV ran perfectly with. 5000 mile change interval for three years until a stupid kid on a cellphone totaled it -i blamed the oil, of course. I think 3000 is too short and the oil gets dirty beyond 5000. have used synthetic and conventional oils on my 2002 Odyssey and the car still runs great after 17 years. There is a little seepage at the main seal but Honda says don’t worry about fixing it as it would be a big chunk of the car value.

Here are some things I have “learned” along the way that could be folklore or facts....
Older car engines needed a run-in period, so they used conventional oil until the first change to let the engine components wear a bit. Then you could switch to synthetic. There was also a recommendation to vary driving quite a bit in that period. New cars don’t seem to have such limitations as the tolerances are super tight.
If an engine has been run for over 100,000 miles with conventional oil, it would not be wise to run synthetic, as it would tend to leak more.

Mobil 1 was tested on cabs in NYC by just running them for over 100000 without changing the oil, tearing down the engines and checking wear (negligible). Synthetic is a better oil against temperature breakdown. It is a lot more expensive, but a great product.

It would be difficult for customers to evaluate any oil ideas scientifically, so I just do the changes at the dealer and don’t worry about these issues. Our dealer is excellent and checks the car without too much upselling. Now I have more time to worry about sailing or climate change.

 

O


An engine would never make it to 100,000 miles by never changing the oil, synthetic or otherwise. The sludge build up would be incedible by 15,000 and the engine would probably seize by 30,000, if oil was even being added. The original 'taxi test' was testing different conventional and synthetic motor oils in new york taxis and changing it every 5000 miles. the engines were then torn down and checked for wear. No difference was found in wear for conventional vs synthetic at 5000 mile intervals. In summary, the testers suggested not to go over 5000 miles for an oil change interval for either conventinal or synthetic.

 

Hi there fellow CRV neighbors,

Well, here is another post asking which is best to use: motor oil or synthetic oil. I have read the many posts and there are different opinions about this topic. I just had my oil changed and I have only used motor oil so far as well as the previous owner. I have my oil changed every 3,000 miles. Living in a very hot climate this has been advised and I follow it. My conversation with the mechanic was such that he felt for the next oil change and thereafter to be synthetic. It will be better for the longevity of the car. Then I was told I would only have to change out the oil every 5,000 miles. I have a 2007 with approximately 123,000 miles.

My question is: Since I have more miles now would it indeed be better to switch over to synthetic oil? By the way, I intend to keep this car for as long as possible. I may go before it does.

I am sure this is a never ending topic. Thank you for all replies.

In my '01 Cr-v, which I bought new and now has 296k miles on it, I started out with conventional "dino", but later switched to a synthetic blend. I used Castrol Magnatec, but then they changed the formula to an all synthetic, so I switched to Castrol High Mileage synthetic blend, and I change it every 5k miles. At 296k miles, it doesn't burn any oil, and the engine is still strong as ever. Best car I've ever owned! (Hoping my 2016 CR-V will be as trouble free & long lasting.) So, if you're concerned about seals leaking due to how synthetic oil may not make the seals & gaskets swell the way conventional oil does, you might want to try a synth blend like Castrol High Mileage, and as an added advantage, you wouldn't have to change the oil for 5,000-7,500 miles.

 

I use the fully synthetic since new, I average 10k between oil changed and 275k miles later still running strong.

 

Redirect Notice

Synthetic oil sludge (this example is in a lexus). This is what happens when oil is not changed often enough.

 

Synthetic oil sludge (this example is in a lexus). This is what happens when oil is not changed often enough.

That’s “never”, not “often enough”. As this thread has displayed, most think over 3000 miles is not often enough. Some think over 5000 is not often enough. There’s a sensible minority following the MM.

In my CR-V the oil has been changed every 8K per MM (mostly shorter trips). My Ecoboost MM comes on at 11+K usually. Both are mirror-clean inside (5 and 3 years in, respectively) and the oil levels are still on the top mark at service time. As was in my previous work van at 10 years, 190K miles, changed every 9600 miles.

Haven’t touched dino oil since mid-1990.

 

It was a TV commercial. It was a number of years ago, and it ran frequently during Prime Time hours. And that's what it stated. 100,000 miles without change. I just did a quick search and couldn't get a hit on it. Cabs were Ford Crown Victorias.

 

Does the sun really rise in the East? True East. Let's examine this......blah blah blah

 

Wonder why he hasn’t post in the “oil level on the dipstick” thread?