[banjaxed]

As for a generic camera the answer is no, It's a Bosch matched set with the radar unit. They interface and work together. Yes a mechanic/technician can troubleshoot and calibrate the camera if they have the equipment to performer this. But it's very expensive and few independent shops would have the resources to purchase this equipment.

Thanks for the quick response, guess I'll bite the bullet and get it done....argghhhh so frustrating when you get your car properly serviced and on time and only by Honda dealership and then this crap happens....such is life I guess!

 

[Traylaw]

Thanks for the quick response, guess I'll bite the bullet and get it done....argghhhh so frustrating when you get your car properly serviced and on time and only by Honda dealership and then this crap happens....such is life I guess!

All those wonder bells and whistles on modern cars are truly a major cost when they go wrong. Make you miss the olden days when a VW Beatle technology was an AM radio. 🙂

 

[scuttlefield]

what was the end result - did you replace the camera or did you just proceed without it? any idea if there is a generic camera that an independent garage could install?

As for my situation, I took my car to my trusted mechanic. They replaced the 5yo battery. Unfortunately, it didn't make a difference (but at least that was needed anyway). I took it back next week and they did a thorough test of the electrics to make sure that it was the camera unit itself that was the problem. And unfortunately... yes, it's the camera. The (somewhat) good news, is that they are able to get the part and do the install, and they reached out to a body show that can do the calibration. The (somewhat) good news is that they can do it for about $300 cheaper than the dealership. The bad news is that it's still about $2200. The camera unit alone is over $1300. So, I've decided to go ahead and do it. The part is on order and should be able to get it done in the next week or two. I'll update when it's done.

 

[scuttlefield]

As for my situation, I took my car to my trusted mechanic. They replaced the 5yo battery. Unfortunately, it didn't make a difference (but at least that was needed anyway). I took it back next week and they did a thorough test of the electrics to make sure that it was the camera unit itself that was the problem. And unfortunately... yes, it's the camera. The (somewhat) good news, is that they are able to get the part and do the install, and they reached out to a body show that can do the calibration. The (somewhat) good news is that they can do it for about $300 cheaper than the dealership. The bad news is that it's still about $2200. The camera unit alone is over $1300. So, I've decided to go ahead and do it. The part is on order and should be able to get it done in the next week or two. I'll update when it's done.

Camera has been replaced and everything is working fine now. I had them save the old part so I could tinker with it. Turns out, it's not the "camera" per se, but the computer that controls the camera. The lens itself is fine. Crazy that such a relatively small part costs so much. Anyway, happy to have everything in working order again, and glad my regular mechanic to take care of it.

 

[Coastie05]

Thanks for the update! Glad it’s fixed now.

 

[scuttlefield]

Hello all... in case you were wondering what it looked like inside one of these units, I took my old/dead one apart (second pic is just the back of the board). Didn't see anything obviously wrong with it.

 

[breaknrn]

Thanks for posting this picture. I know this is an old post and you may have resolved this, but for people who may wander onto this (like me), here are a few possible causes and resolutions which doesn't cost you much to resolve and doesn't involve many tools besides a multimeter. First, things that may cause all the driving assistance lights to appear could be the following. 1. Corrosion at the negative and positive battery contacts. Clean them out with emory cloth or sand paper. 2. You may have a blown fuse. Make sure your car is off and check for continuity with your multimeter. Check all of them because it only takes a few seconds. Check all the fuses for both the fuse box under the hood and in the car's cabin. Replace any that may have been blown out. 3. Check the output of your car battery. It should be above 12.5 with everything turned off. Start the car and in ready mode, you should read 14.5 or so which tells you that your alternator or DC to DC converter if you have a hybrid is working okay. If it is less than ~13.6, then there is a likelihood that this needs replacing. Don't replace the DC to DC converter yet. It is very expensive and rarely goes bad. Go to the next step. 4. With the car turned on, turn on your AC, Radio, and Headlights. You should still see a voltage above 13.5, which is enough to recharge the battery. 5. Check that you don't have corrosion on your body ground cable. If you do, sand it off so you have good contact. 6. If all these fail, next try replacing the negative battery monitor. This costs $180 at the time of this posting to buy an OEM from the dealer. 7. Lastly, if all these things have been checked, it may be the camera. I save this as close to last resort because it is one of the most expensive items to replace. Now, before replacing the camera, let's understand why the camera has to do with the lane assist, braking, ABS. It's because the camera is used to make all these things work. Now, let's discuss the cause of camera malfunctioning. It is likely due to heat from exposure to the sun due to being mounted on top of the window. The cold and hot cycles are not ideal for circuit boards. This is because different materials have different thermal expansion and contraction properties. Namely, the metal solder expands and contracts at a different amount than the silicone board it is attached to. Heat makes things expand and cold makes it contract. Years of these cycles causes cracks in solder joints, leading to poor (or non-constant) contact giving intermittent signals. You can test this theory to see if your camera acts up and causes the dash lights to light up on hot days or running the car for a while. Now, a couple things I see that could be with the board for the camera. 1. Check for cracks or dullness at the 12 legs sticking up. Check for continuity from these pins to the corresponding connector pins. If you notice non-consistent continuity, remelt the solder with a solder gun. 2. Next, I see that the yellow thermal paste likely is dried out on those two chips on the bottom right. The purpose of this paste is to transfer the heat from the chip to the heatsink, which in this case is the metal casing. This may be leading to overheating. Scrape off the yellow thermal paste and reapply some fresh, high quality thermal paste. You can use the gray kind used for processors on computer motherboards. 3. Check for any looseness in the connector. Bend the male pins (a little) or close up the female part of the connector to make the connections tighter. 4. If there is any corosion in the connector, clean with alcohol and let dry. Reconnect and see if these things solved your problems. Last resort is to go see the dealer, but be prepared to pay $200-300 for a diagnostic. Good luck everyone!

 

[crvtouring]

You just grasping for straws. All the things you suggest are useless. A weak battery will never give a Multipurpose camera: internal failure code. If anyone doing this suggested procedures stop. Changing the alternator,battery,battery sensor. Removing the camera just to check the board will ruin the aiming.