How old is your battery?

Often, weak batteries cause this issue.

 

Thank you for this, I believe it’s still on the original battery so in its 4th year and probably good to replace before it fails entirely anyway. Dealer had checked the battery as OK in the multipoint inspection (though I haven’t seen the details) and I’m a bit surprised the warnings issue would show up while driving rather than at start up if a battery issue. However apparently, as you say, this is a cause known in this forum. Many thanks.

 

Thank you for this, I believe it’s still on the original battery so in its 4th year and probably good to replace before it fails entirely anyway. Dealer had checked the battery as OK in the multipoint inspection (though I haven’t seen the details) and I’m a bit surprised the warnings issue would show up while driving rather than at start up if a battery issue. However apparently, as you say, this is a cause known in this forum. Many thanks.

Definitely replace the battery then. If you got 4 years from the original battery you beat the normal odds as to life expectancy.

What happens in newer CRVs (really all modern highly electronic motor vehicles) is with a weak battery you can experience larger than normal voltage dip to the 12V battery voltage during an engine start. That can and will cause power up system glitches in different electronics systems, and it would not surprise me at all if the camera is one of the more sensitive systems for power up issues on a weak battery. Sure, the battery can still start the vehicle (does not take much to start a modern Honda engine really), but that does not mean all systems are receiving stable and consistent minimum voltage. Typically if the battery voltage drops below 7vdc during an engine start you can expect to have issues with one or more electronic systems in a modern motor vehicle.

One other easy thing to check and verify is the connectors to the camera itself. The plastic cover plate over the camera clips into place and can be gently unclipped and removed so you can inspect and insure the wiring harness to the camera is in fact snug and nothing loose. Also check to insure the camera is clipped into it's mount properly on the front glass, as if it were not clipped correctly, road vibrations might make for some glitching of connections as well. It's probably fine, but worth inspecting if you get repeat events after you replace your battery.

 

Definitely replace the battery then. If you got 4 years from the original battery you beat the normal odds as to life expectancy.

What happens in newer CRVs (really all modern highly electronic motor vehicles) is with a weak battery you can experience larger than normal voltage dip to the 12V battery voltage during an engine start. That can and will cause power up system glitches in different electronics systems, and it would not surprise me at all if the camera is one of the more sensitive systems for power up issues on a weak battery. Sure, the battery can still start the vehicle (does not take much to start a modern Honda engine really), but that does not mean all systems are receiving stable and consistent minimum voltage. Typically if the battery voltage drops below 7vdc during an engine start you can expect to have issues with one or more electronic systems in a modern motor vehicle.

One other easy thing to check and verify is the connectors to the camera itself. The plastic cover plate over the camera clips into place and can be gently unclipped and removed so you can inspect and insure the wiring harness to the camera is in fact snug and nothing loose. Also check to insure the camera is clipped into it's mount properly on the front glass, as if it were not clipped correctly, road vibrations might make for some glitching of connections as well. It's probably fine, but worth inspecting if you get repeat events after you replace your battery.

Many thanks for this additional information and context, makes a lot of sense.
I suppose Honda might know of this issue, but apparently the HDS doesn't check battery performance in this regard.

 

I am so glad I found this post my car (Brad Pitt) was working just fine until all of a sudden the electronic emergency parking brake would not release and my dash board lit up like a Christmas tree for no reason. I had to get it towed and took it to Howdy Honda in Austin Texas. They made me replace the parking break switch for 400dlls and said the only way the lights would turn off would be to replace the multipurpose camera with a cost of 1,650dlls. Has anyone made a claim against Honda for this? I am assuming this is a manufacturing issue. Any help or suggestion with this issue would be greatly appreciated.

 

What kind of claim would you make? The multi function camera broke out of warranty and now I have to pay for it, and that ain't right? Electronic equipment will fail, it's not a matter of "if" but when it will fail. Today's cars are more electronic than mechanical. Honda did provide an extended warranty when you purchased the car if you wanted it.

 

My 2019 CRV EX battery failed a little over two and a half years old….luckily dealer replaced and said it was covered in the warranty…..

 

A load test is the key.

 

Yes indeed. And I have no idea what kind of test the dealership would have done for their "multipoint inspection" but as @williamsji explains above there are complexities in the way a battery delivers simultaneously to multiple electronic systems that make it more than a simple matter of whether there's enough juice to get the engine started. Replacing a battery is an obvious starting point because we know they die anyway.



L
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Discussion Starter · #1 · Apr 29, 2023 (Edited)

Following a routine service at the dealership (coincidence perhaps?) 2019 AWD EX started intermittently showing dashboard warning lights/messages and audible dinging indicating "problem with: ACC, LKAS, CMS, brake system etc". Not every trip, usually while driving, not start-up. Sometimes remedied by stopping and restarting but not always.
So, I went back to the dealer who then ran a diagnostic test with HDS (cost me $200+). The resulting report states "INTERMITTENT DTC U129C AND NOW PERMANENT DTC B2A60 - 49. APPEARS TO BE INTERNAL FAILURE OF MULTI-PURPOSE CAMERA. RECOMMEND REPLACING FRONT MULTI PURPOSE CAMERA, RE-AIM AND RECHECK." This will cost approx. $1800.
I'm not convinced that this is a correct diagnosis of the problem. Not least because for 2 days following this diagnosis I have driven the car on 4x10 mile trips without any problem indicators at all, all dashboard indicators normal.
I know some others have had this experience and might have some ideas about much less expensive ways to resolve this puzzle or solve the problem.
Thank you for sharing any ideas!

P.S. (After the expensive diagnosis I cleaned the windscreen extra-thoroughly around the center-mounted camera and cleaned the radar unit on the grille. Since then I have not had the problem, but am not confident that the issue is solved).


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#2 · Apr 29, 2023

How old is your battery?

Often, weak batteries cause this issue.


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Discussion Starter · #3 · Apr 30, 2023 (Edited by Moderator)

TheDarkKnight said:
How old is your battery?

Often, weak batteries cause this issue.

Thank you for this, I believe it’s still on the original battery so in its 4th year and probably good to replace before it fails entirely anyway. Dealer had checked the battery as OK in the multipoint inspection (though I haven’t seen the details) and I’m a bit surprised the warnings issue would show up while driving rather than at start up if a battery issue. However apparently, as you say, this is a cause known in this forum. Many thanks.

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Joined Apr 1, 2019
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#4 · Apr 30, 2023

Lifter said:
Thank you for this, I believe it’s still on the original battery so in its 4th year and probably good to replace before it fails entirely anyway. Dealer had checked the battery as OK in the multipoint inspection (though I haven’t seen the details) and I’m a bit surprised the warnings issue would show up while driving rather than at start up if a battery issue. However apparently, as you say, this is a cause known in this forum. Many thanks.

Definitely replace the battery then. If you got 4 years from the original battery you beat the normal odds as to life expectancy.

What happens in newer CRVs (really all modern highly electronic motor vehicles) is with a weak battery you can experience larger than normal voltage dip to the 12V battery voltage during an engine start. That can and will cause power up system glitches in different electronics systems, and it would not surprise me at all if the camera is one of the more sensitive systems for power up issues on a weak battery. Sure, the battery can still start the vehicle (does not take much to start a modern Honda engine really), but that does not mean all systems are receiving stable and consistent minimum voltage. Typically if the battery voltage drops below 7vdc during an engine start you can expect to have issues with one or more electronic systems in a modern motor vehicle.

One other easy thing to check and verify is the connectors to the camera itself. The plastic cover plate over the camera clips into place and can be gently unclipped and removed so you can inspect and insure the wiring harness to the camera is in fact snug and nothing loose. Also check to insure the camera is clipped into it's mount properly on the front glass, as if it were not clipped correctly, road vibrations might make for some glitching of connections as well. It's probably fine, but worth inspecting if you get repeat events after you replace your battery.

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Discussion Starter · #5 · Apr 30, 2023

williamsji said:
Definitely replace the battery then. If you got 4 years from the original battery you beat the normal odds as to life expectancy.

What happens in newer CRVs (really all modern highly electronic motor vehicles) is with a weak battery you can experience larger than normal voltage dip to the 12V battery voltage during an engine start. That can and will cause power up system glitches in different electronics systems, and it would not surprise me at all if the camera is one of the more sensitive systems for power up issues on a weak battery. Sure, the battery can still start the vehicle (does not take much to start a modern Honda engine really), but that does not mean all systems are receiving stable and consistent minimum voltage. Typically if the battery voltage drops below 7vdc during an engine start you can expect to have issues with one or more electronic systems in a modern motor vehicle.

One other easy thing to check and verify is the connectors to the camera itself. The plastic cover plate over the camera clips into place and can be gently unclipped and removed so you can inspect and insure the wiring harness to the camera is in fact snug and nothing loose. Also check to insure the camera is clipped into it's mount properly on the front glass, as if it were not clipped correctly, road vibrations might make for some glitching of connections as well. It's probably fine, but worth inspecting if you get repeat events after you replace your battery.
Click to expand...

Many thanks for this additional information and context, makes a lot of sense.
I suppose Honda might know of this issue, but apparently the HDS doesn't check battery performance in this regard.

 

Thank you all for the idea about the battery. I've had similar symptoms as the OP, although in my 2018 Accord (we also have a CRV). The Accord is still on its original batter and didn't even thing this might be an issue. Dealership wanted to charge me ~$2500 for parts/labor/calibration. Also, was trying to push me to replace my after-market windshield (at a cost of $1500) because they couldn't guarantee that they could calibrate the new camera (of course the company that replaced my windshield didn't seem to have a problem with calibration). So, now I'm off to replace the battery, which I likely need to do anyway... if that does it, I'm only out the $180 diagnostic fee from the dealer. I'll report back after battery replacement.

 

Go

Good luck! Let us know. I must admit I haven’t yet replaced mine, though plan to. I’ve bee quite happy driving without functional camera now the warning sounds seem to have stopped. You know, driving with eyes on the road like we used to!!

 

what was the end result - did you replace the camera or did you just proceed without it? any idea if there is a generic camera that an independent garage could install?

 

As for a generic camera the answer is no, It's a Bosch matched set with the radar unit. They interface and work together. Yes a mechanic/technician can troubleshoot and calibrate the camera if they have the equipment to performer this. But it's very expensive and few independent shops would have the resources to purchase this equipment.

 

Thanks for the update! Glad it’s fixed now.

 

Hello all... in case you were wondering what it looked like inside one of these units, I took my old/dead one apart (second pic is just the back of the board). Didn't see anything obviously wrong with it.

 

Thanks for posting this picture. I know this is an old post and you may have resolved this, but for people who may wander onto this (like me), here are a few possible causes and resolutions which doesn't cost you much to resolve and doesn't involve many tools besides a multimeter. First, things that may cause all the driving assistance lights to appear could be the following. 1. Corrosion at the negative and positive battery contacts. Clean them out with emory cloth or sand paper. 2. You may have a blown fuse. Make sure your car is off and check for continuity with your multimeter. Check all of them because it only takes a few seconds. Check all the fuses for both the fuse box under the hood and in the car's cabin. Replace any that may have been blown out. 3. Check the output of your car battery. It should be above 12.5 with everything turned off. Start the car and in ready mode, you should read 14.5 or so which tells you that your alternator or DC to DC converter if you have a hybrid is working okay. If it is less than ~13.6, then there is a likelihood that this needs replacing. Don't replace the DC to DC converter yet. It is very expensive and rarely goes bad. Go to the next step. 4. With the car turned on, turn on your AC, Radio, and Headlights. You should still see a voltage above 13.5, which is enough to recharge the battery. 5. Check that you don't have corrosion on your body ground cable. If you do, sand it off so you have good contact. 6. If all these fail, next try replacing the negative battery monitor. This costs $180 at the time of this posting to buy an OEM from the dealer. 7. Lastly, if all these things have been checked, it may be the camera. I save this as close to last resort because it is one of the most expensive items to replace. Now, before replacing the camera, let's understand why the camera has to do with the lane assist, braking, ABS. It's because the camera is used to make all these things work. Now, let's discuss the cause of camera malfunctioning. It is likely due to heat from exposure to the sun due to being mounted on top of the window. The cold and hot cycles are not ideal for circuit boards. This is because different materials have different thermal expansion and contraction properties. Namely, the metal solder expands and contracts at a different amount than the silicone board it is attached to. Heat makes things expand and cold makes it contract. Years of these cycles causes cracks in solder joints, leading to poor (or non-constant) contact giving intermittent signals. You can test this theory to see if your camera acts up and causes the dash lights to light up on hot days or running the car for a while. Now, a couple things I see that could be with the board for the camera. 1. Check for cracks or dullness at the 12 legs sticking up. Check for continuity from these pins to the corresponding connector pins. If you notice non-consistent continuity, remelt the solder with a solder gun. 2. Next, I see that the yellow thermal paste likely is dried out on those two chips on the bottom right. The purpose of this paste is to transfer the heat from the chip to the heatsink, which in this case is the metal casing. This may be leading to overheating. Scrape off the yellow thermal paste and reapply some fresh, high quality thermal paste. You can use the gray kind used for processors on computer motherboards. 3. Check for any looseness in the connector. Bend the male pins (a little) or close up the female part of the connector to make the connections tighter. 4. If there is any corosion in the connector, clean with alcohol and let dry. Reconnect and see if these things solved your problems. Last resort is to go see the dealer, but be prepared to pay $200-300 for a diagnostic. Good luck everyone!

 

You just grasping for straws. All the things you suggest are useless. A weak battery will never give a Multipurpose camera: internal failure code. If anyone doing this suggested procedures stop. Changing the alternator,battery,battery sensor. Removing the camera just to check the board will ruin the aiming.