On a Gen3, it is behind the L Front wheel, easy to find but unusual for it to cause no crank/no start. What year is your V?
Have you tried starting in Neutral, as you turn the key do you hear the cut relay click, have you tested the starter by connecting it directly to the battery (by-passing relays and interlocks)?

 

It is a 2003, so Gen2 I think. I have tried starting it in neutral, no go. I do however hear the cut relay click. I started by replacing the starter and learned how to test the starter afterwards. The older starter works after all I didn't test the new one but am assuming it is fine. I didn't really feel like putting the old one back in. I currently have the manifold off again and just picked up a test light to see if I am getting power to the starter. I have a multimeter but it sounded easier to use a test light. It was suggested that if I dont have power at that point it is likely the neutral safety. I looked under the wheel as you suggested and I believe that is the access I need. Thanks for responding so quickly.

 

On my 2004 CRV, I had the same symptoms and suspected the neutral switch also ..... however towing it to a respected repair shop they determined it was the keyed ignition switch assembly causing the issue and replaced it.
They were right. $$$

 

If you suspect the transmission range switch aka neutral safety switch, there is a detailed test and setup procedure in the Gen3 service manual, probably the same for yours, or download the Gen2 manual.
Cheers!

 

Thank you Wes for the good advice.

 

Hopefully these photos could help, but I gotta admit, its somewhat vague to me,lol

 

Those are from my 2005-2006 service manual

 

@crashcramer your first pic is showing that it is on the drivers side of the transmission, behind the plastic wheel liner. Second pic is showing you that it is under a cover, take off those 3 bolts to access it.

 

Thanks, if I find I need to find mine, now I know 🤣

 

@E Huckstead

FWIW, It’s not clearly stated what you found with your test light. I am assuming that you are not getting power at the starter S terminal (vs not getting power at the starter B terminal).

If you are missing power at the S terminal when you turn the ignition switch, see if this thread helps you in sorting out if it is the neutral safety switch, ignition switch, relay, or a broken wire:

https://www.crvownersclub.com/threads/second-generation-crv-starter-diagnosis-the-solenoid-part-of-the-circuit.246916/?post_id=1874702#post-1874702

 

Thanks for all the tips, you are all amazing. I don't have time to get into it for a few days but will post an update as I go.

 

The simplest thing to do is to pull out the starter cut relay and insert a jumper wire between pin 1 & 2 of the relay box. If you look at the relay, it may have numbers next to the pins; typically the ones you would want to jumper is pin 30 and 87 (85 and 86 are for the relay coil) which corresponds to source power and load respectively. If the starter cranks now, it's either a faulty relay or your neutral switch is faulty as you suspected (or a broken/open wire in that circuit).

 

It's on the side of the transmission. And near the driver side front wheel. It's called the range selector switch. You can help troubleshoot it by trying to start it in neutral sometime when it won't start in park.

 

I tested things and as far as I could tell the range selector switch had poor continuity at all connections. I cleaned it up a bit and reconnected it to the body. Low and behold she started up. I ordered a new one and hopefully that will be the end of my starting issues. Thank you all for your sage advice.