Fuel injector cleaning and intake valve cleaning won’t do anything for oil burning. Sounds like you’re going through a lot of oil. Are you sure you don’t have an oil leak? I’d try mystery marvel oil…it apparently cleans up the piston rings which is why you’d be burning oil.

 

Would you use the Mystery Marvel Oil with synthetic oil or regular oil?

Mechanic has not seen any apparent leaks.

 

You should check the oil level and not wait for a rattle
How much oil exactly is used per 1000 miles?


3000 mile oil changes is excessive. But at 3000 miles you shouldn't have to add oil.

What your mechanic suggested had nothing to do with oil consumption. Is his boat payment due?

 

Don’t use “regular“, use at least a synthetic blend. You could try one of the “high mileage” oil versions and perhaps go up a grade to a xxW-30. Depending on how the car has been maintained, piston rings can get clogged. Ask you mechanic if he’s ever done a “piston soak”, which is basically pouring a cleaning agent into the cylinder and letting it sit overnight. This would be followed by a fresh oil change, of course.

 

If it is burning oil- you should see smoke in the exhaust.
If oil is leaking out- someone should be able to see where it is leaking when they get under it to change the oil.
The heavier oil will not help in this situation- I would switch back to what the manufacturer recommends- I think it is ow-20 or 30 when you change it.
Do you see any oil spots on your driveway?

 

Outside North America Honda actually recommends 0W20 and 5W30 for the 2014 CRV. Attached is a page from the 2014 CRV's owner's manual in Japan. I won't get into details why only 0W20 is displayed in the North American owner's manual but it's a EPA regulation concerning C02 credits.

A 5W30 oil will help reduce consumption of oil but only a little bit. Honda has stated that a quart of oil every 1k miles is within a normal range... I'm not sure I agree with that, maybe for a vehicle with twice your mileage.

The best thing you can do right now is check you oil level frequently and keep it topped up to the full mark. Never ever allow the oil level to get to the point that the engine rattles or the oil light goes off. At this point the oil pump is sucking air and not providing adequate oil to the engine resulting in accelerated wear and/or damage to the engine.

 

I have ran 0-20 Mobile1 synth in my bought new 2014 and have no oil burning at 117500 miles. I change oil and NAPA Gold filter or start collecting the materials whenever she shown 20% or less. PS Still running 0-20 at 117500 miles.

 

There is new (chemistry) technology to clean the piston ring-lands. Carboned-up black rings is the usual cause of sudden oil consumption. The rings aren't moving properly in their grooves. The new chemistry is "Valvoline Restore and Protect" motor oil (use 5w-30 in the summer, and 0w-20 if you live in a cold climate in the winter), from Amazon or AutoZone or mail-order from Walmart or Advance Auto Parts too.

Note it is a relatively new thing to be able to clean carbon off pistons to reduce oil consumption. In the past, oils could only hope to keep the plaque accumulation down, not remove it. Note "sludge" is a different animal, not the same as the crap sticking to ring-lands on pistons, and all oils deal with 'sludge' just fine, just to avoid confusion.

Background: Valvoline successfully solved bad oil consumption on big-rigs using the Cummins ISX15 engine with their previous 'special' diesel motor oil meant for that fleet diesel crowd, and now, years later, they seem to have gotten the piston cleaning tech to passenger gasoline vehicles. It's real intellectual property.

BTW: I agree with those above that said the mechanic's advice was bogus.

If you don't want to try the "Valvoline Restore & Protect" motor oil, then another interesting and proven way to clean pistons comes from HPL (pricey, shipped-only). Links below.

0W20 Synthetic Motor Oil Quart | hpl-lubricants

Superior aniti-wear formula reduces damaging wear and increased engine life. Protection at startup and low oil temperatures. Film strength that maintains stability at high temperatures and with fuel dilution. Low friction coefficients reduce parasitic loss and increase performance. Increased...

www.hploil.com

Premium Passenger Car Engine Oil

High Performance Lubricants’ premium passenger car engine oil is a multi-synthetic high performance motor oil made with the best choices of additive chemistry. When compared with our standard PCMO Premium product line this series takes advantage of an advanced VI Improver that has a superior...

www.advlubrication.com

... or just put in their chemical cleaner: HPL EC 30 Engine Cleaner
and add that to any motor oil, like SuperTech oil from walmart is fine.

Valvoline Restore and Protect, easier to get at Amazon or Autozone or Walmart online mail-order or Advance Auto Parts.

 

Without determining the oil consumption in liters per 1000 miles, all the advice is really just guess work. Who knows, maybe that oil consumption is perfectly normal.

If oil consumption is noticeable, first have someone qualified look for leaks. Once that is excluded or fixed, you have to decide if the oil consumption is acceptable compared to the cost of rebuilding/cleaning parts of the engine. If it cost you 1 quart of oil per 3000 miles for example, that is really cheap compared to repairs.

And short of fixing obvious leaks, it is nearly impossible to reduce oil consumption short of replacing a lot of parts.

And hire someone qualified to check for leaks, not someone selling injector cleaner.

PCV valve is something cheap you can do yourself. Do that as well just to exclude it as a cause.

 

""""I haven't even gone 2,000 miles since 2 quarts were added and it is starting to rattle which has been the telltale sign of needing oil.""""
Always make sure the oil is between the upper and lower lines on the dipstick. If you see the oil pressure warning light on the dashboard, that is trouble. Best to check the dipstick once a week, add a quart when you see it on the bottom line or slightly below, check it on level ground, after the engine has been off for more than 5 minutes.

And, get Valvoline Restore and Protect motor oil (5w-30 since it's almost summer, 0w20 in winter). Cleans piston ringlands as I explained above. Best chance moving forward.
You may want to change the oil and oil filter out every 3,000 miles or 6 months (whichever occurs first) since it could liberate extra carbon bits. Do that twice. Then go with oil changes every 9 months or 8,000 miles with the same kind of oil.

 

Plugs getting fouled?

 

Though I'd weigh in here with some personal experience. Picked up a 2016 EX-L with 90k about 1.5 years ago. Records indicated regular oil changes however once we got it I started to notice oil consumption issues. Figured it was the rings being stuck as it was not aggressively burning oil or leaking out. Tried a can or two of fuel system cleaner to loosen up the rings (this + muzzlng the VCM + aggressive driving for a day worked on our 2008 Odyssey that had developed oil consumption issues due to the VCM system), tried switching to a Castrol synthetic blend that was recommended here.

What ultimately seems to have worked (zero oil level change since May 2024/3000 miles when I did this work) was to pull the spark plugs and fill the cylinders with Berryman B12. I would let it sit for 6 hours, rotate the engine a few times via the crank pulley, refill any cylinders where the B12 had drained past the rings and let it sit another 6 hours. Did this over 24 or so hours. Probably used 3 cans of B12 total. Just turning it over with a wrench sent lots of the B12 out through the spark plug holes due to compression and my goodness was it full of carbon. The rags I'd laid over the top of the holes were covered with thick gobs of it. An absolute mess.

Drained/refilled the oil, ran the starter without plugs to blast out the remaining B12, replaced the plugs and attempted to start it. It was not happy...ran the battery down in fact. Eventually got it started and hit the road, giving it the full throttle treatment on highway on-ramps and hills to try to get those rings unstuck. 3000 miles later, it appears to have worked.

YMMV.

 

Thought maybe I would comment. I have a 2016 CR-V. 210,000 kms on it. Been changing oil every 5,000 km instead of the normal every 10,000 km. Have just been recently told to keep checking/topping it up regularly (by that checking weekly I am told) to avoid that dredded noise. Told it is the piston rings needing rto be replace. My Question is - how long can I go like this (checking the oil that frequently, topping it up that frequently) or should I just get piston rings replaced? I am told by me Honda dealer $2500 - $3,000 to do this.

 

I’d switch to Valvoline Restore and Protect engine oil.

 

Probably can go for awhile.

 

I think a lot of good advice has been said here.

If you park in the same place all the time and there aren’t already a lot of oil patches you’d notice if you were leaking very much oil. I had an oil seep from the valve cover and there were all these annoying drops on my driveway.

I would just add that after watching a lot of car care nut videos where he had several that had oil consumption due to the low tension rings snd bore scoring, and DYI Dave where he tried everything under the sun, I would get an inspection of the cylinder bores using a boroscope before doing anything else. If the cross hatching is worn away then nothing will fix it apart from a short block or an engine swap or full rebuild.

If keeping the car and no bore scoring I would buy a big pail of diesel oil on sale because I do my own service. Cheaper and has tons of detergents. First I’d try the berry man’s soak and a few rounds of retire and protect.

 

I was going thru oil too. 2013 CRV. About 1 quart or so every 1k. Tried many oils and grades. Changed PCV and absolutely no change. I just put this stuff in. liqui-moly Motor oil saver. I had to add 1 quart at 2500 miles and I am at 4000 and the oil is mid way on the dip stick. So I am thrilled at this point. I plan to change in the next 200 miles. It states it takes about 500 miles to start working.

 

We are having the same issue with our 2014! Changed the pcv valve but the rattle came back and sure enough it was already 2 qts low again!

 

I am using Valvoline restore and protect. I went from using 1 quart per 1000 miles to about 1 quart per 5000. I just changed the oil and this will be my second time using the oil.

 

Whatever the secret sauce is it certainly seems to work well for a lot of engines with high oil consumption.