Error code P0087 has been seen on many occasions as you will see if you do a search in the Diesel sub forum.

The cause of P0087 is low fuel rail pressure and can be caused by many items along the fuel train from the high-pressure pump, injectors failing or the common rail fuel regulator, or even a blocked fuel filter. I would start with an injector leak back test first because this is by far the easiest item to do first – If the injector leak back test proves okay, I would have a look at the fuel rail regulator because they have been know to stick in the open position sending all the fuel back to the tank.
Or items could be the high pressure pump failing due to swarf, or the actual drive dog spinning within the cam drive.

NOTE: If you garage try to state you need to purchase the complete fuel rail to fix the problem, kindly inform them that the fuel rail regulator and the fuel rail sensor can both be purchased direct from Bosch. See attached photo showing parts and part numbers.

 

So it's currently in the Honda garage in Cardiff. £105 an hour to diagnose, they've done the first hour and said they can smell diesel in the engine bay so think there's a leak. I've told them that my local garage had the fuel rail off etc. so likely to be spillage from that, so they've finally listened to what I've told them what has been done so far. They want to keep the car for 1 to 2 days to carry on diagnosing. I've told them no thanks at £105 and hour, so then they've said ok well we can still do it and then agree a price after the 2 days. Again, no thanks. I've pointed out the previous mechanic suggested maybe the fuel regulator so they are going to take another hour's fees and try and prove whether that's ok or not. Not a good experience so far with Honda Cardiff, from the very first conversation it's felt like a money spinner for them.




Hi Kev, sorry to be a pain again. I've been looking at those Bosch parts and they say they are compatible with Mark 3 CRV. Mine is Mark 4 120hp 1.6 idtec. Would they still be compatible?

 

Brilliant thank you Kev, any suggestions on where best to buy them? Struggling to find ASP online?

 

Before you going buying loads of parts you are best to diagnose and confirm what is causing the low pressure problem.

The parts can be purchased from any Bosch retailer, you might want to check online to find your nearest supplier.

 

Speak with you Bosch parts supplier to clarify compatibility, but as far as I am concerned they fit the 1.6 and 2.2 i-dtec engines with no problems.

 

Latest update, in case it helps anyone else. Had the diagnostic back from Honda who have said it is the fuel pressure regulator (so thank you Kev for the part above, £105 is a lot better than the £1300 they wanted to charge me for the fuel rail/sensor/regulator). They've also recommended that the injector pipes should be replaced as the rail was removed as they should be a 1 use part. I'm struggling to find them online but not sure if I'm searching for the right thing. It's the high pressure metal pipes that come off the fuel rail, if anyone has any ideas? Link?

 

Take a photo of the part you are looking for on the fuel rail and I will see if I can help because not sure what you are talking about.

Regarding Honda's comment on changing the injector pipes ask them why - Injector pipes should last the life-time of the engine.

 

Hi everybody
I have almost the same problem.
Abs, esp, Tyre pressure, engine check, brake assist, etc are ON and my car go to limp mode.
Codes are

• P0087 95-10
• 83-11
• 85-01
• C1870-00

The issue is that after errassing the codes the car runs perfectly againfore some more time,wears or months. So I can not diagnose it.
The values on freeze p0087 seems to be OK, do not have low pressure on common rail.
The gasoline filter is new as the battery.
Is it possible that en error engine implements errors on other circuits as the abs, esp, Tyre pressure etc?

Car
Honda crv 2.2 idtec awd 150 hp 2013.
Thanks in advance for your answer and forgive my english, not my native language.

 

@jivasasha
Error code C1870-00 relates to a problem with your emissions and fuel / EGR system – Suggest you get your O2 sensor checked first and then your EGR system.

P0087 has been discussed many times and relates to a low fuel rail pressure.
Normal fuel rail pressure should be approx. 30MPa/300bar at engine cranking and must reach a minimum of 20MPa/200bar for the injectors to be allowed to operated correctly by the ECU.
Your screen shots shows that your engine is only producing 54Mpa @ 1562 RPM, hence you have a low fuel pressure problem – This could be injector leaking, or fuel rail pressure relief valve issue, or a blocked fuel filter, or a high pressure fuel pump problem.

Error code 83-11 this fault code relates to a specific problems with your PCM (Powertrain Control Module) and I would suggest you consult a qualified auto electrician.

Error code 85-01 relates to a problem with the VSA control module and may be related to the PCM problem.

Error code 95-10 Sorry I have no data relating to this error code and may be related to your PCM issue.

 

@UK-Kev
Thanks for the answer.
I will check the o2 sensor and the high pressure items listed.
Do you have some informations about the pressure needed on the common rail for the crv idtec?
I did not find enithing on the forum.
Is it possible that the engine lowe pressure puts the limp mode ON and so the others ones are activated?
I find very odd that all problems Comme at the samme time. I mean if I have a problem with abs it should Comme all alone, isn't it?

Thanks

 

@UK-Kev
thank you for your answer, i am just trying to understnd how it works.
I have done the injectors test (back flow) and it is ok, all 4 of them are equal, so i think its not that that is causing my problems.
Also the AUTEL tester is showing correction for the injectors betwen -0.2 and 0.1
1Mpa equal 10bar, right?
The AUTEL tester is showing the required pression needed in the rail and it sems that the real presure is folowing it. Is this right?

Can you tel me if the ISV informations are right?
whend i change RPM (700 => 3400) all the informations does not change, is it ok or i have a problem here?
Can the airflow bring an error on the rail pressure with the P0087?

Thank you in advance
Merry Chrismas.

 

@jivasasha

Sorry, you are supplying all your data / information in French, and I have no way of translating this information.

Désolé, vous fournissez toutes vos données/informations en français, et je n'ai aucun moyen de traduire ces informations.

Merci Mon Ami

 

@UK-Kev
Hi, sory,
here are some scren shots en english with the same questions.
Thank you.

 

Like I said in my first message you have low fuel rail pressure, hence you have the low-pressure error code P0087.


The low-pressure fuel problem could be anywhere along the fuel train – You need to get the fuel pump checked, the fuel rail pressure and limiter valves checked, and by far the easiest thing to check first is to conduct a fuel injector leak back test.

Also, from your error codes it would seem you have an ECM problem; hence this will need to be checked by a skilled person.

I would strongly suggest that you get a qualified mechanic to do this work for you.

How to do a injector leak-back test.
Regarding the injectors leaking back – You can’t assume anything until you have completed the required tests and you can tell by the test results whether the injector needs servicing or replacing. I also suggest you check your fuel rail pressure to help diagnose low fuel rail pressure. I do not have the exact technical data for your engine, but we used to work on less than <40 mL over half a minute test. If you need the precise data, I suggest you contact your local Bosch distributor, who will be able to provide you with this information for your engine. How to do a leak-back test Good injectors should not leak more than 25ml in this test from the original factory fitted injector. ======================================================= ==
The Test The test that I used starts with 2 minutes running at idle followed by: 30 seconds with the accelerator held at 3000 rpm followed by: 30 seconds at idle followed by: 30 seconds with the accelerator held at 3800 rpm followed by: 30 seconds at idle followed by: 30 seconds with the accelerator held at 3800 rpm followed by: 30 seconds at idle. Manufacture states that the fuel temperature should be no less than 50C so hot engine for this test.

 

View attachment 167755

Like I said in my first message you have low fuel rail pressure, hence you have the low-pressure error code P0087.


The low-pressure fuel problem could be anywhere along the fuel train – You need to get the fuel pump checked, the fuel rail pressure and limiter valves checked, and by far the easiest thing to check first is to conduct a fuel injector leak back test.

Also, from your error codes it would seem you have an ECM problem; hence this will need to be checked by a skilled person.

I would strongly suggest that you get a qualified mechanic to do this work for you.

How to do a injector leak-back test.
Regarding the injectors leaking back – You can’t assume anything until you have completed the required tests and you can tell by the test results whether the injector needs servicing or replacing. I also suggest you check your fuel rail pressure to help diagnose low fuel rail pressure. I do not have the exact technical data for your engine, but we used to work on less than <40 mL over half a minute test. If you need the precise data, I suggest you contact your local Bosch distributor, who will be able to provide you with this information for your engine. How to do a leak-back test Good injectors should not leak more than 25ml in this test from the original factory fitted injector. ======================================================= ==
The Test The test that I used starts with 2 minutes running at idle followed by: 30 seconds with the accelerator held at 3000 rpm followed by: 30 seconds at idle followed by: 30 seconds with the accelerator held at 3800 rpm followed by: 30 seconds at idle followed by: 30 seconds with the accelerator held at 3800 rpm followed by: 30 seconds at idle. Manufacture states that the fuel temperature should be no less than 50C so hot engine for this test.

Thank you UK-Kev for your answer.
Extremelly helpful.
I wil come back afther the injector leak back test.
I am alredy searching for the fuel rail regulator and the fuel rail sensor.

Merci.

 

Hi everybody,
injection leak was done and it is ok, all four of them are équal after 7 minutes.
Now that I order the fuel rail régulator and the rail sensor can, can someone tell me if I have to take out the rail for the remplacement or can it be done on the engine directly?
Does anyone have workshop information about the procedure?
thanks.

 

@jivasasha

The design of the fuel rails on the 1.6 and 2.2 allows you to remove the pressure sensor and regulator actually on the engine – However it is best if you remove the complete fuel rail from the engine to change the pressure sensor and regulator on the workbench and you can also ensure that the fuel rail is thoroughly cleaned of any contamination.

NOTE: If you decide to remove the fuel rail, please ensure that you use little bungs on the injector fuel feed pipes or injectors themselves to prevent fuel draining back the injectors and the injector drying out, otherwise you will have a whole heap of problems.

 

Hi,
I have same issue on 2012 CR-V (4gen) 2.2 i-dtec.
P0087 and a lightshow of other things on the dash at random.
This random is not completely random but usually when I drive not to fast, not pressing hard on a gas pedal and then want to speed up just a bit more and there it is - lightshow and limp home mode.
Pull over, turn it off, turn it back on and it works great again.

I was advised at Honda dealer it is usually caused by non OEM fuel filter.
I replaced this to the OEM one (expensive) and problem was gone for about 6 months.
Now it returns again.

I think that 54MPa at 1562RPM doesn't necessarily mean it is low pressure. It depends at what moment in time this measurement was taken.
This pressure changes constantly, and it depends on engine load.
If I let off the gas pedal it can go down to 30'sh MPa and as soon as I pressed it back it goes back up, depends how much I press it it can go just a little up or up to 160 / 170 MPa.
For example here, between 13:08 and 13:12 (top chart is RPM); I did not get any error during this drive cycle.

@jivasasha please post any update, hopefully a solution ass soon as you have it.
My next steps will be to try diesel system cleaner (I never tried any of those before so I do not know if this is just snake oil or can do anything good).
Next step would be going to Honda dealer and asking if my car is eligible for ECU update.

I am aware about Honda bulletin for this issue and my year and VIN fit in to it, just I do not know if my car was previously updated or not.
Can someone possibly tell me if my ECU calibration is before or after this update? My calibration ID is: 37805-R7C-G660
I just hate waste time and money at the dealer and they can tell me there is no update for me anyway.

 

Please see the attached Honda TSB which is self-explanatory.

 

Hi, I have had very similar problems with my CRV 2013 idtec 2.2. It throws up many lights and goes into limp mode. If I switch the car off then on again it comes out of limp mode. After a few off and on's the lights will all go out. The fault code is p0087. The fuel filter has been changed. The car is going to well otherwise I don't think it's injectors. Is it worth trying to change the fuel pressure sensor? Is there a sensor and a fuel pressure regulator on this car? Which is it most likely to be?

 

@Ger2279
The best advice I can give you at present is to go and get your engine diagnosed by a good diesel technician to establish the actual problem with your engine.

 

What I will write below sounds silly, I know, but it actually works for me.
I had P0087 error and light show on dash many times. After I changed fuel filter to OEM one this issue was gone for half year and than it returned.
What helped in my case is that now to start my car I'm turning on ignition, waiting for 15 seconds and than I start it.
No more issue for over a year now and I did not do anything else related to fuel supply.
Is it loosing prime for whatever reason? Not sure. Do I need to do this every time? I do not know, I just do it and I have no problem after. So I just continue to start it like that.
I think it's worth to try as it cost nothing.

 

Hi, thanks for the advice. It is definitely worth trying. I am in no way mechanically minded but I feel my problem is electrical as the car is going to well for it to feel like a fuel supply problem. I was wondering would replacing my earth strap help? The last time I had work done my mechanic told me the one on the car was badly corroded. It's just a thought as I akso have an on/off problem of the auto stop start light coming on. Doesn't happen very often but when it does it says check system. After a few on/offs it goes away again.