Here is a good video on how to find parasitic current drains.

I especially like the tool that the Car Wizard describes at 6:30. But as he demonstrates, you don't need one.

 

I recently experienced a parasitic battery drain (followed diagnosis in your thread so thanks!). Finally replaced battery and all good for a couple of days before the drain reappeared. Turned out I have a faulty courtesy light switch (the one on the driver side uk). When I thought it was off, it wasn’t, it just wasn’t lit when I looked, and then one day it was lit.. doh. Mine turned out to be an easy fix. I hope the same for you.

 

To find a parasitic load obviously you first have to isolate which circuit the load is on. With only a DVM you can determine the current passing thru each fused circuit by back stabing the fuses and observing the voltage across the fuse. For the CRV you need to make the vehicle think all doors and hood are closed. Place a C clamp or something to close the driver side door switch. For the hood you can unplug the hood latch switch located at the bottom of the latch. Once you have the door and hood switches taken care of you can leave the hood and door open and lock the doors to enable the security system. Wait 20 mins. for the car's computer systems to go to sleep and start hunting for the parasitic load.
Once you find which circuit is the problem a schematic is very useful to determine what devices are on that circuit.

 

Just a follow up for those inquiring minds.


I pulled the battery and took it in for a load test. My 500CCA battery was putting out 560CCA, so the battery is better than good.

Symptoms have me believing that the starter has gone bad. When the key is engaged, there is a slow, pathetic, "I think I can..." starting effort just for a moment. A few of the things I've read and watched stated that this is how the Honda starter acts when it has failed.

A few questions. What's a good test to verify my suspicions.

As for repair, my local Firestone, who is my most trusted wrench, wants $800 to do the job, over half of which is a rebuilt starter.

I believe I can do the job myself if I have enough tequila shots...

The videos I've watched show approaching it from above (removing a lot of stuff but easier access- eventually) or from below (less peripheral disassembly but a bit of a contortion act to reach things) I'm inclined to go from below, as it bypasses the disconnection of a dozen or so old, brittle electrical connectors, with which I have a poor track record.

I'm grateful for opinions on both methods.

Finally, the starter itself. Amazon has a $90 no name rebuild with a sketchy reputation from the reviews.I think I'll pass. Still, I think we can do better than the $400+ Firestone unidentified rebuild.

O'Reilly shows an Ultima starter new for $270 and rebuilt for $232.

Advance shows a variety, CarQuest, Bosch, Denso, and a few others from $200-400.

AutoZone has the Duralast new and remanufactured, $220-260, and I'm sure the list goes on....

So, which direction of approach on the job and which piece of hardware to install?

Help me Obi Wan Kenobe. You're my only hope....

Thanks!
Jay

 

.

 

I'll keep that in mind, ajchien...

 

So, any recommendations on which starter?

 

A Denso new or rebuilt by Denso.