Good diag, but $600 for a door handle seems excessive. Plus the $180 for the diag itself.

Did you have to pay the full amount? Or did Hondacare help with costs? (Just out of curiosity)

 

Yes, I paid it all. I'm not happy with the amount but the problem was resolved. It took 6 weeks to get the handle and it looks new - it matches the color perfectly. I do not have Hondacare since overall, the Honda's that I've owned have been very reliable.

 

We are dealing with this issue now! We even got a new alternator because the mechanic thought that that was the problem. Nope. So now we are getting the door handle replaced as well. And the Honda dealership said that this problem is common. Sounds like it should be a recall. It it going to cost us almost $1,000 with diagnostics and service fees.

 

Same. New battery in February, new starter in May, now it’s the driver’s side door handle…. $795 + tax, etc. ☹ Certainly hope this takes care of the problem.

 

So I thought I would join the forum and chime in, I had the same exact issue in my 2016 EX-L. Mine seemed to get progressively worse in terms of the speed in which it would drain the battery. Ended up killing my battery, as I think the constant draining followed by rapid charging I was doing afterwards took a toll eventually, to where it would be dead after just a couple hours. I suspected the same issue with the passenger door handle, based on having read this post and subsequently noticing that when I was within 5-6 feet of passenger side door with fob in my pocket it was unlocking, though it's not supposed to do so until you touch the handle. So I guess that sensor firing all of the time is what does it. Got a new battery at Pep Boys (my dead one was still under warranty thankfully), dropped it at Dealer afterwards, and explained what was going on. They of course act as if they have never heard of such a thing, which I just don't buy...I think this issue is fairly common in this vintage and model. Anywho- diagnostic fee- $167; passenger door handle $493, Labor $320. I am just happy to not have to be dicking around with it anymore.

 

What if you removed the fuse that controls the driver side door? And just used the manual key???

 

I have a 2016 CRV and I am having the same problem. But, I didn't recognize the significance of my door unlocking just coming outside and being near my car. This is my 3rd battery in 5 months. Dealer couldn't find the problem. Thanks to this thread, I told my service advisor what was i thought was happening and that was it. $1000 to fix it for part and labor but at least that will be the end of it!

 

For at least 3 years I have been having the exact same problem with my 2016 Honda CRV. The root cause was finally diagnosed after replacing the battery twice in less than 2 years. I have chosen not to have the door handle replaced as the problem only occurs when the car has been left idle for more than 48 hours and it doesn't matter whether it is indoors or outside. I was told by the Honda dealer that the cost for door handle replacement would be about $775. For now I will not use my CRV when I take long trips and have to leave it in the airport parking lot. Instead, I will take my other car to the airport and leave the CRV at home after disconnecting the battery. I agree that Honda should issue a recall since this is obviously a common problem and likely some kind of manufacturing defect.

 

I have a 2015 exl. The drivers door smart entry handle displays inconsistent misbehavior. Most notably, it will sometimes unlock when walking away. This is also paired with battery drain in less than a week. It has a 51r battery and alternator that have tested ok.

If the connector inside the door with failing smart door handle is disconnected, does this potentially solve the drain issue until the door handle is replaced?

I have a Foxwell 510 elite Obd tester with the Honda module. Would this be able to test the door handle?

 

does this potentially solve the drain issue until the door handle is replaced?

Not sure about the Foxwell, but most parasitic drain test are performed with an Ampmeter, so if that is installed, and you unplug that handle, then you would notice your drop in readings.

 

The driver side door handle smart entry has been confirmed to be the cause of the parasitic drain on the battery. This appears to be a consistent problem with CRV's prior to 2020. I think it is a manufacturing defect. Therefore, Honda should issue a recall and offer to repair the problem especially since the costs range from $500 to $1,000. I doubt this will happen. In the meantime, my solution is to just disconnect the battery when leaving the vehicle untouched for more than 48 hours.

 

In the meantime, my solution is to just disconnect the battery when leaving the vehicle untouched for more than 48 hours.

Same issue here. Dealer said it was battery. They put a new one in and charged $400+. They are idiots. My neighbor did a parasitic drain test with the multi-meter and saw > 1.0 amp draw when car is sitting in drive. Passenger door unlocks when you walk by with the key fob in pocket...even with a new battery.
Here is my problem (listening Honda?). Why can't the dealers be honest with the customer? They must know this model has this drain issue related to door handles. Why not come clean with the customer and be up-front? Tell them the door handle is bad and you need a new one for $600+. Honda...bunch of crooks.

 

Not sure about a defect, very limited from what I have heard on here.

Battery tender may help.

 

what is a "battery tender"? The problem is very, very common.

 

I see on HPN that the door handle is about $460 pretax MSRP. Looks like it has a short cord with a connector. I’ll ask if anyone gets their handle replaced, save the old one to open and dissect. Could be some capacitor or resistor or chip or even solder joint a circuit board that has gone bad.

Somehow I have this sense that future auto mechanics will have 50% of their work being small parts electronics repair wearing surgical loupes holding a soldering iron rather than safety glasses and an impact wrench.

 

Somehow I have this sense that future auto mechanics will have 50% of their work being small parts electronics repair wearing surgical loupes holding a soldering iron rather than safety glasses and an impact wrench.

Looking more like a jeweler than a mechanic.

 

My recent thread on this forum tells how to repair the door handles yourself. And my repair works very well. It's a little time consuming but saves you a lot of money.

https://www.crvownersclub.com/threads/how-to-fix-your-electronic-door-lock-on-your-crv-instead-of-replacing-them.244791/post-1862899

When these vehicles age out and the replacement parts are no longer available, my fix will still be usable to solve this common problem.

 

I've had the same issue with "phantom unlocks" when approaching the car for MONTHS, and this past week it got to the point where I now have to jump the car with a pack every time, so thank you for this post, very helpful.

In the meantime until I can get it replaced, will pulling the fuses for the driver's door lock (passenger compartment box, fuses 15 & 30) temporarily stop the battery drain?

 

I've had the same issue with "phantom unlocks" when approaching the car for MONTHS, and this past week it got to the point where I now have to jump the car with a pack every time, so thank you for this post, very helpful.

In the meantime until I can get it replaced, will pulling the fuses for the driver's door lock (passenger compartment box, fuses 15 & 30) temporarily stop the battery drain?

This is a great idea! But be very careful of not wearing out or making the contacts where the fuse sits. Or you can buy fuse tap. You can use the tap to temporarily install & uninstall the fuse that powers the driver's door lock.

 

Battery tender, aka: battery charger. That will not solve the problem if your handle is malfunctioning. It only keeps your battery charged up.

 

Just fixed this issue on my 2016 EX. If you're willing to spring for the cost of the parts, the replacement is really very easy. I considered @JimPghPA's technique, but opted for new parts because I did not want to have my doors pulled apart for the time it would take to complete both handles...I just wanted this fixed.

I got both driver and passenger side handle from HondaPartsNow, and they ran me around $630 for the pair, including shipping. Not cheap, but worth it for the time I saved trying to fix the existing handles, and the peace of mind of not worrying about the battery.

Used these two videos from the DIYHonda YT channel as guides for removing the door panel, and replacing the handle. The videos are short and to the point, and easy to follow.

Removing the Door Panel (YT video ID is PRI7IFqQBmM, you'll have to search, as I can't post links with a new account)
Removing the Door Handle (YT video ID is UhrWZW0fifE)

From start to finish, the whole process took me an hour or so.

Some tips:

• Make sure you have a non-marring (i.e. - plastic) pry tool for prying off the various panels as needed, so you don't scratch them up. You might be able to get away with a screwdriver for some of them, but you risk scratching the plastic.
• It's easier to get the door panel off with the window down, but you'll need to put it back up to reach the door handle on the inside and disconnect some of the cables.
• The bolt in the end of the door can fall into the door panel if you aren't careful. I used some masking tape on the inside of the socket to make it a tighter fit, but a magnetic socket or bit would also help. H/T to JimPghPA for that one.
• When pulling back the plastic that is under the door panel, the tar-like adhesive can get all over the place and is very messy. One of JimPghPA's tip's suggested covering both sides of the exposed adhesive with wax paper, and that worked very well.

Since the replacement, the doors locks work exactly as they should. If I lock the car and walk away, it stays locked. If I walk up to the locked car and touch the front driver or passenger door and pull, the doors unlock. Likewise with the tailgate.

If you're handy and have plenty of time on your hands, may well be worth having a go with JimPghPA's method. But you can still avoid the trip to the dealer, and at least the labor cost, by just buying the parts yourself and replacing them. One of the easier jobs I've done on my cars over the years.

 

Just fixed it on my 2016 EX-L. Devhammer's steps are great. The helpful videos are here:

Removing the Door Panel (YT video ID is PRI7IFqQBmM)
Removing the Door Handle (YT video ID is UhrWZW0fifE)

A single handle runs between $300-400 on the various OEM Honda parts websites. Get the paint code from the sticker on the inside door then match it to the correct one on the parts site. You'll be surprised that some colors cost more than others.

How to find your Honda paint color
Honda CR-V Color code names

NOTE ABOUT THE X IN COLOR CODE:
Some Honda paint tags have been released with an “X” at the end of the color code. The “X” is to be ignored; it has nothing to do with plant designation or the color code itself. I have found this answer on the internet so I hope it helps as I'm searching for the same answer.

Took me less than an hour, including fumbling in Youtube because I got confused removing the handle harness. Good note: the harness has two tabs - one on the top that aligns it to a rail and one on the bottom that connects it to the handle. If it's too hard to remove, you're missing something. The wax paper tip is flawless and highly recommended, you WILL get some on your hands if you don't handle it in some way. Be careful removing the vapor barrier from the top button, I tore it and ended up putting a piece of electrical tape on it when I reassembled. That part does not bear weight so I'm hoping I'm ok.

As was mentioned earlier, I did not disconnect the window/lock controls, I removed all the screws from the latch and controls, popped the door panel, knocked the latch in, and then let the panel rest on a small stool I had (I was nervous to let it just hang, though the wires are probably tough enough). The door rotates nicely to leave you plenty of room to work. If you have a wide plastic panel remover tool, you can fit it in the bottom center-ish of the door and pop nearly the whole thing out at once. I did not break a single tab this way. The rubber insert in the inner door handle can rotate and cause confusion. Again, if it's not working right, you're doing something wrong, just flip it over. Be careful getting out the plastic backing of the door latch. I broke a tab on my other CR-V doing that. Parts are cheap, but shipping isn't.

I got an inexpensive magnetic metric nut driver set from harbor freight to tackle the bolt in the door. Same thing with the panel tools. If you use a screwdriver, you'll probably scratch something or ding the rubber/plastic.

Removing the handle is easy. there's some grease in there so watch your hands. If your car has a key lock, when you remove that part, a long metal bar with a four-way 'clover-like' bit will be on the end. If you look inside the hole with a light you'll see the corresponding mount for it. It will slot back in when you reassemble.

You don't need to disconnect the battery to do the fix.

Don't pay the dealer! You can do this yourself!

 

Just fixed it on my 2016 EX-L. Devhammer's steps are great. The helpful videos are here:



A single handle runs between $300-400 on the various OEM Honda parts websites. Get the paint code from the sticker on the inside door then match it to the correct one on the parts site. You'll be surprised that some colors cost more than others.

How to find your Honda paint color
Honda CR-V Color code names


Took me less than an hour, including fumbling in Youtube because I got confused removing the handle harness. Good note: the harness has two tabs - one on the top that aligns it to a rail and one on the bottom that connects it to the handle. If it's too hard to remove, you're missing something. The wax paper tip is flawless and highly recommended, you WILL get some on your hands if you don't handle it in some way. Be careful removing the vapor barrier from the top button, I tore it and ended up putting a piece of electrical tape on it when I reassembled. That part does not bear weight so I'm hoping I'm ok.

As was mentioned earlier, I did not disconnect the window/lock controls, I removed all the screws from the latch and controls, popped the door panel, knocked the latch in, and then let the panel rest on a small stool I had (I was nervous to let it just hang, though the wires are probably tough enough). The door rotates nicely to leave you plenty of room to ...

thanks for the post.
Will try.

 

Which model years have had the door handle issues?
Can this affect vehicles that use a metal key in the ignition switch?

 

Which model years have had the door handle issues?
Can this affect vehicles that use a metal key in the ignition switch?

My 2015 EXL has had this going on for a few years now. I just make sure to drive it every few days or plug in the battery tender. I have the push-button ignition.

 

I had the exact same problem last spring on my 2015 Touring. The battery would die over night...even a brand new batter. It turned out be the passenger side handle. The dealer described it as the module was continually trying to lock and unlock. It cost me a little over $700. I got the impression from the tech that this is known problem. ¯\(ツ)/¯

 

Is it necessary to pair the new door lock with the key fob after replacing the door handles?

 

No. The handle is dumb. It's just mechanical handle combined with a sensor with a connector that plugs into the wiring in the door. Easier to replace than a stereo, to make one comparison, since I've recently done both.

 

I've read thru this whole post thread and have a question for those in the know.
How do the new handles differ from the old, other than the fact they haven't been exposed to the elements from being installed on a car?
If there isn't some significant difference between old and new, why would you expect the problem not to reappear?

 

For me, at least, I park my CR-V in my garage at home. So less exposure to the elements, perhaps, than the original owner. The car is nearly 10 years old, so if it ends up coming back after a few years, it's not that big a deal to me.

My time is limited, so a couple of hours replacing the handles with new vs. attempting to repair the existing ones is a significant difference. And I kept the old ones, so if I want to, I can attempt the epoxy repair/seal approach with those, in case the issue arises with the new handles.

 

What if I unplug the door handle? I use the fob to lock and unlock the car. Will the unplugged door handle throw a code and cause the CEL to come on?

 

No it will not.

 

FWIW, in September 2023 hondapartsnow charged me $293, plus tax and shipping = 331.65 (my next to last purchase from that outfit ... story for another thread).

Don't remember exactly what a local dealer wanted (something like $400). Just now dreamshop.honda.com lists MSRP at $547.72 (2015, white diamond pearl). My local independent (who owns several Hondas) charged $125 for half an hour to R&R (SF Bay Area).

 

I think the wire on affects the hands free function, not the actual lock/unlock functions.

 

For a 2016 Honda CR-V a PARASITIC DRAW IS NORMAL AT 0.008 AMPS or 8 mA

Is there anyone who can recommend a type or brand of Low Current Ammeter to test for parasitic draw?

 

UT210e https://a.co/d/8s5SDbx?

Haven't used but bought it based on my research/budget.

 

UT210e Amazon.com

Haven't used but bought it based on my research/budget.

Thanks for your reply! ... I will check if it will display as low as the 8mA to 26mA or 0.008 to 0.026 amps I need. Looks like it will at first glance.

 

Most multimeters should do the job.

Klein Tools MM325 Multimeter, Digital Manual-Ranging 600V AC/DC Voltage Tester, Tests Batteries, Current, Resistance, Diodes, and Continuity - Amazon.com

Klein Tools MM325 Multimeter, Digital Manual-Ranging 600V AC/DC Voltage Tester, Tests Batteries, Current, Resistance, Diodes, and Continuity - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

 

One with a clamp is more safe/convenient imho.