How to Replace Rear Differential Mounts
This past week I took my car to a run of the mill brake chain because I was hearing a clunk in the front end. They told me I needed "rear end bushings" and they told me my rear differential was so loose they could move it up a half inch. Now they were not entirely correct. There was some play in my differential, but it was not that much. Also, the clunk was not coming from the mounts, it was coming from most likely, the sway bar end links in the front. I doubt they even test drove it.
At any rate, they quoted me 600 dollars for the job. I bought the 6 bushings at my Honda dealer for 136 dollars plus tax. The place was marking up the price and also ordering an extra mount that was still really good.
Essentially these mounts are part of a plate that fits right above the rear differential. They are like transmission mounts for your differential. They mount it to the body of the vehicle.
Over time, these mounts get worn and your differential will develop play. This affects the propeller shaft and U-joint wear.
I have a copy of the Factory Service Manual on my computer, it is very helpful and gives you pretty good directions on how to change the mounts. I would not use the haynes book for this project, it is woefully incomplete.
A few things that must be done to get to these mounts:
1. You must have a jack or two to support the differential when lowering it.
2. You have to make sure you dont damage the exaust pipe or EVAP sensor unit when pulling the unit down.
Also, it is important to note, that the Factory Service Manual tells you to remove the drive shafts. You do not need to remove the shafts to change the mounts, you only have to lower the differential enough to remove the mounting plate from the top of the differential. Then you can dissasemble the mounting unit and rubber cushions.
NOTE!!! This is very important! - The INSULATORS that are pressed in to the differential mounting plate (the plate that holds the differential to the body) These insulators are stuck really hard- You will have to pry them out using a screw driver and a hammer to raise the lip and a pry bar to pry the lip up until the insulators fall out. Once they fall out you can slip the new ones right in.
You can let the propeller shaft dangle when you disconnect it because honda put in a brace.
LET ME KNOW IF YOU LIKE THIS POST! I WILL INSERT DETAILED DIRECTIONS ON HOW TO DO THE REPAIR.
THANKS!
This past week I took my car to a run of the mill brake chain because I was hearing a clunk in the front end. They told me I needed "rear end bushings" and they told me my rear differential was so loose they could move it up a half inch. Now they were not entirely correct. There was some play in my differential, but it was not that much. Also, the clunk was not coming from the mounts, it was coming from most likely, the sway bar end links in the front. I doubt they even test drove it.
At any rate, they quoted me 600 dollars for the job. I bought the 6 bushings at my Honda dealer for 136 dollars plus tax. The place was marking up the price and also ordering an extra mount that was still really good.
Essentially these mounts are part of a plate that fits right above the rear differential. They are like transmission mounts for your differential. They mount it to the body of the vehicle.
Over time, these mounts get worn and your differential will develop play. This affects the propeller shaft and U-joint wear.
I have a copy of the Factory Service Manual on my computer, it is very helpful and gives you pretty good directions on how to change the mounts. I would not use the haynes book for this project, it is woefully incomplete.
A few things that must be done to get to these mounts:
1. You must have a jack or two to support the differential when lowering it.
2. You have to make sure you dont damage the exaust pipe or EVAP sensor unit when pulling the unit down.
Also, it is important to note, that the Factory Service Manual tells you to remove the drive shafts. You do not need to remove the shafts to change the mounts, you only have to lower the differential enough to remove the mounting plate from the top of the differential. Then you can dissasemble the mounting unit and rubber cushions.
NOTE!!! This is very important! - The INSULATORS that are pressed in to the differential mounting plate (the plate that holds the differential to the body) These insulators are stuck really hard- You will have to pry them out using a screw driver and a hammer to raise the lip and a pry bar to pry the lip up until the insulators fall out. Once they fall out you can slip the new ones right in.
You can let the propeller shaft dangle when you disconnect it because honda put in a brace.
LET ME KNOW IF YOU LIKE THIS POST! I WILL INSERT DETAILED DIRECTIONS ON HOW TO DO THE REPAIR.
THANKS!
