Wow, that is a weird situation. Have you scanned your car for codes? In particular transmission codes.

It sounds like you did all this, but maybe watching this video will give you some ideas on how to tackle this problem

 

Wow, that is a weird situation. Have you scanned your car for codes? In particular transmission codes.

Hello. Thank you for reading my post, for replying and for the video. Although my car is an older generation I did put a new Park Pin Switch in and made sure it was opening and closing properly (mine is buried in the shift mechanism)

I did put a scanner on it. It has ZERO problem codes.

 

Can you remove the key when in N (neutral)?

 

Hello. Thanks for responding. I just checked. The key CANNOT be removed when the car is in Neutral.

You are very close to solving your problem. The key is your observation that the instrument panel doesn't indicate that you are in park. This indicator comes from the PCM when the range switch on the transmission is in park. See attached schematic. The PCM/MICU is involved in both the shift lock solenoid and the key interlock solenoid. In both cases the PCM/MICU must see the transmission range switch in the park position, along with other conditions of course. Now whether it's the range switch or wiring from the range switch to the PCM/MICU you will still have to troubleshoot.
Note that the transmission range switch actually has two separate park contacts in it. One goes to the PCM and the other to the starter circuit which is why you can start the car in park when the PCM doesn't know or care if it is in park to start the car.

Hi. Thank you for reading my post. I downloaded the service manual and with your schematic I will now have to take time to go through the circuit and check for continuity.

 

I agree with @Traylaw .
The transmission range switch, aka neutral safety switch, is the first thing I would check. It may be out of adjustment, broken or just a bad connection.
I replaced ours when I fired the parts cannon at a 'no start' issue, not a big deal to change out.

 

I agree with @Traylaw .
The transmission range switch, aka neutral safety switch, is the first thing I would check. It may be out of adjustment, broken or just a bad connection.
I replaced ours when I fired the parts cannon at a 'no start' issue, not a big deal to change out.

Hi. Thanks for reading. I did put a new range switch on it. It made no difference. The service manual does give some specs on the range switch tolerences which I haven't spent much time looking at yet. I do have a nice digital vernier caliper to measure if I have to get to that step to fix it. I noticed some continuity tests in the service manual that should help me check various segments of the circuit.

 

I was curious, took a look at the repair manual from the Stickies. There is actually quite a bit of stuff to check.

 

Hi. Thank you! Yes there are. Right now I am working through interior circuits.

 

When did this all happen? Just out of the blue one day? What kind of weather? Does the car sit outside or in a garage? Did you drive through water or rain storm?
Did you check running battery voltage? Terminals and grounds are all nice and clean? Is there any thing else that is also not working right?
One other parts cannon deal I would suspect and I maybe way off on it, but I would also question the key switch too. Or wiring to it.
Some of these goofy things can end up being something as simple as corrosion in a connector or just one wire at a connector. Not a fun deal, please let us know what the fix is when you find it.

 

I guess the questions were too difficult?