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The Part that Honda Forgot

3.8K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  rednichols  
#1 ·
In addition to my cold air intake (home made) I've added a heat shield (also home made) between the air intake crossover and the turbocharger. The results are far better than expected.

My effort began when I used my heat sensor gun to check over the underhood temps of the engine parts after an extended freeway-speed run. Inlet temp on the intake duct to the crossover delta was HUGE: on a 14C ambient day the duct showed 24C or so while that crossover showed 90C! Falling to 60C at the end of it that connects to the compressor inlet.

So I set about trialing a simple heat deflector between the crossover and the turbo: the temps all across the inlet tract settled into the 30C range. Incredible.

And the seat-of-the-pants meter, and my right foot, said I was needing far less throttle opening to accelerate. CONFIRMED now by my vacuum gauge (which is OBD2 and is its only readout): cruise control at 100kph (actual) without the heat shield was 6-7 in/Hg, WITH the shield the vacuum reading increased to nearly idle vacuum -- which is 22in/Hg!! Which is consistent with the 'gas' pedal feeling as if I've only the barest of contact with it on the freeway (tho the test was ratified using cruise control.

Incredible. Pics FYI. The shield is made of what I had on hand, which is a stainless steel reflector sheet intended for greenhouse use: mirror polished side facing down towards the turbo, the visible upper side being spray painted with exhaust manifold paint. A notch left for a mechanic's access to the air/fuel sensor in the exhaust manifold was covered with a pivoting square of the same metal, in this case with the mirrored side 'up'.



Petrol mileage (measured here as litres per 100km vs mpg) yet to be measured because the car apparently shows only history as opposed to realtime; so it will take some time before that can show a different reading.

Did I say "incredible?".
 
#11 ·
Well lookey that there, a Honda L15BG Thailand FFV motor -- with a heat shield beneath the intake crossover. From this very site. Great minds worked alike at one point in time:

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Many visible differences otherwise, to my Honda L15BG motor. Same idea for the floating heat shield as additional to the shields bolted 'round the turbocharger itself, though.
 
#9 ·
I've heard if you delete the noise attention box on top of the motor as well charge temps drop. My last vehicle I had a device embedded so I could see obd info on the dash screen. I too modded and changed the stock "hot air" intake and made it draw outside air only. Got it to drop 30-50F in some cases. I did it thru a string of 95-100f days and I went from 40-50 over ambient to just above ambient. But the problem ibran into was I could see HP and TQ demand numbers. Even the rig felt like it was struggling a bit more.

I eventually went to an aftermarket setup with a closed box that had a K&N barrel filter and they extended the intake like you did to get it closer to hood edge. And the temps stayed down and the struggling went away. Come to find out I had inadvertently with the stock box choked the airndown below necessary limits at higher rpm.

Why I looked at the 1.5s open inlet and went wow better design but again it's a hot air intake. I understand the reason to increase cold temp charge temps to prevent intercooler icing but in the summer it would be nice to have a bypass flap setup to only pull outside air in unless it's below X temp.

If you had a mate with a 3D printer y9uncould make your design intergrated into the lid of the filter so it looked factory, and should you get a period of below freezing a quick swap is all that is needed.


Thanks for the water ingesting clear up, good to know the box is designed to seperate it. If I ran y9ur design in my parts it would suck in plenty of rain water.

But again I'd delete the top box or put some heat shielding under it to see if it drops charge temp more. I bought a Ultra Gauge to see Charge temps, boost etc but sadly the Honda uses a complex protocol to decode that most generc scanners lack. My Honda specific code reader actually shows everything I want to see but not designed to stay plugged in outside of diagnosis.

All and all great design. Lower charge temps are definitely better andofe beneficial. I'd love to see your petrol consumption increase after it settles in and remaps the ecu to compensate.
 
#7 ·
Clever approach, but I am not sure if you are fixing an actual issue in design, or simply expressing your creativity. :)

I personally would not make this modification as I have no idea what the long term repercussions might be for the engine in general. Plus, depending on the state you live in, this might blow a vehicle inspection if it includes any engine modifications that alter engine parameters in any way.

One thing about Honda engineers, they are fastidious about engine designs, tuning, and most of all reliability. They always leave margin on the table in favor of dependability and reliability. So I find it hard to second guess them on anything engine design related. Body panels and cabin interior though .... I would second guess them on some elements on some CRV generations.
 
#8 ·
Clever approach, but I am not sure if you are fixing an actual issue in design, or simply expressing your creativity. :)

I personally would not make this modification as I have no idea what the long term repercussions might be for the engine in general. Plus, depending on the state you live in, this might blow a vehicle inspection if it includes any engine modifications that alter engine parameters in any way.

One thing about Honda engineers, they are fastidious about engine designs, tuning, and most of all reliability. They always leave margin on the table in favor of dependability and reliability. So I find it hard to second guess them on anything engine design related. Body panels and cabin interior though .... I would second guess them on some elements on some CRV generations.
Of course your viewpoint is valid to me.

Lowering the intake charge temperature is a standard ideal for turbocharged cars (I've been playing with them and driving them since the 1970s and so before intercoolers and fuel injection) and there are NO changes to the engine or its computer at all.

The temperature of the charge air fell 60 degrees C! And as a reward for my 'whimsy', the car cruises on the freeway (up to 110 kph) at near idle vacuum (15 in/Hg vs 7 in/Hg) and on flat ground, as high as 20 in/Hg.

Fuel economy was steadily improving on a single tank to 8.5; as soon as I removed the setup my fuel economy began to drop and is at 9.0 presently and rising (it's how economy is measured here, the reverse of how it's done USA).

Even the wife has noticed the fresh 'spark' in the car's acceleration! And we all know that to impress one's wife with one's tinkering is unheard of :).

Will I put it all back on? Dunno, though I did like the Mercedes-like responsiveness and smoothness. But with a new car warranty I would hate for the dealer to take your attitude so the setup may stay off anyway.

As for Honda engineers knowing better than I, who could argue -- except to say that they design for many countries but I didn't have to. My addition of the snorkel was in view of having none of the airborn contaminants like Fall leaves or locust swarms or sand storms to consider. Mighty clean air quality in Queensland! In removing my setup I also removed my K&N air filter and reinstalled the factor paper one. Despite the direct flow of air from the bonnet into the snorkel, the air box and filter surface on the underside of the K&N was completely clean! Honda designed its 'upside down' airbox to capture water, for example, and has a large holding tank for that: and the water is too heavy to rise up through the filter even under vacuum.

That's a win/win/win except for warranty concerns. And no passersby to impress: it's all completely concealed under the bonnet. No external clues to the mods.
 
#6 ·
Sure. Bear in mind that most of this is arbitrary, including the material I used 'just because I have it'. An ordinary sheet metal of steel or aluminium w/b OK too; mine is 'silvered' on one side because I bought a batch of strips at 6" wide to use with my rooftop solar system. What that does or doesn't do, facing downwards towards the turbocharger, I can only guess at.

Mounting: note I've attached it with two bent angles. If I had it to do again I'd instead use stiff brackets to the two existing screws at the cylinder head cover, and airbox mount.

That it's bent along each long side is so that it will slide under the intake pipe at the 6" width I am using. You can make your own choices. I've removed all my improvements to see if I've been imagining a driveability improvement. Will post up my humble opinion on that.

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