wow I just read that on oil guy forum,I bought my CRV with a recently rebuilt trans.and rebuilt torque converter that the stator in the converter failed 2 weeks after I bought it so I put an OE Honda converter in it , I guess thats why my 100% maxlife and 1 red bottle of lubegaurd started a little shudder after 5.000 miles at 40MPH only , then I put shudder Fixx little 2oz tube in and its gone but I wonder if the black bottle lube gaurd would have been a better choice than the red because of the friction modifier,the modifier was too low and caused a shudder at 40-42 MPH when the converter is partially locked and just went into 5th gear,I think the next change will be DW1 only after reading that ,I am really shocked that the Idemitsu type H was that far off, I was convinced that they made it for Honda and was thinking of using it in the future

 

This is something I've known for a bit now. Maxlife is not to be used in Honda transmissions because it's not the same. Get the shudder around 35-40mph (torque converter shudder) and it it goes too long you break the converter and/or damage the pump.

I was one that that maxlife would be ok till my V started the shudder so it did a full 3x drain and fill and gone after the second drain and fill. Switched the odyssey back to dw1 and trans operation is much better.

Maxlife even says for Z1 which everyone by now should know was shit and caused Honda transmissions to burn up.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

dammn, just buy Honda fluids and no worries

 

If you DIY, its a no-brainer to buy OEM ATF and be 'sure".

But the discussion will fend off those shops that say "what we use is just as good as" the factory stuff.

 

Interesting thread you linked here. So.. the conclusions are that all the tested fluids would lubricate fine, but it is the difference in the friction modifiers that is the key and why you should go with genuine Honda fluid.

 

^^^ Yes, the Topic linked seems to tell why OEM fluid performs longer. There are Topics here that extol alternate fluids but some of the follow-ups indicates that the performance doesn't last.

 

I didn't see the link to that 'seems' to tell why OEM fluid performs longer. Perhaps you could add to that.
Many here have had great luck with the Valvoline product and adding some Lubegard Red to it.
Then again, 'seems, is not a term that 'seems' to make things more factual. ??

Tigris99 also said "Maxlife even says for Z1 which everyone by now should know was shit and caused Honda transmissions to burn up." Course, they also say it is OK for Honda's spec'd for DW-1, BUT he neglected to say that.
He forgot to add that Z-1 worked just fine on the 2nd gen CRVs'
Tigris99 comes up with a lot of strange stuff , usually, just to be different, IMHO.
Buffalo4

 

For you DIYers that don't want to spend a couple extra dollars on Genuine Honda DW-1:

Comparison of DW-1, Valvoline MaxLife, and Idemitsu Type H-Plus.

Three ATF's Analyzed

Originally Posted by The CriticFrom the analysis performed and from the data you are willing to disclosed, it is evident that Idemitsu and Valvoline are using a very different additive system than the Genuine Honda ATF-DW1 fluid. Yes, the disparity is evident. Originally Posted by The...

www.bobistheoilguy.com

My takeaway:

there is enough difference to pay a few extra $$ for Genuine Honda for long term reliability. The additive packages (and hence, the wear factors) are NOT the same.

That must be why the Honda Odysseys had such a high AT failure rate with the Honda Z-1 compared to the Valvoline Max Life Dex/Merc or the Amszoil etc. ???
The failure rate dropped a lot when DW-1 or Amsoil or Valvoline were used.
Still, the DW-1 seems to be working great on the 2nd gen Odys and later models. Thanks to Honda getting rid of the Z-1.
Does Honda always know best??? Not really, but they are very good, overall.

Buffalo4

 

That must be why the Honda Odysseys had such a high AT failure rate with the Honda Z-1 compared to the Valvoline Max Life Dex/Merc or the Amszoil etc. ???

It coudl be that they were just crap transmissions. Any V6 transmission prior to 2006 or 2007 was not at all reliable. Just look at an Acura forum and read about the multiple failures of the 5-speed automatic in the TL from 2000 onward (some owners were on their third transmission in warranty), and check the Accord forums in both the 6th and 7th generation (2003-2005) V6 transmissions and they have a similarly dismal record. The B7XA in my daughter's 2002 has been acting up since we bought it. In fact, one of the cures for a bad tranny in a 2000-2003 TL is to swap in an Accord tranny from a 2006 or later model, vs. getting the old one rebuilt and having it fail again. I still occasionally see those older TLs on our local Craigslist which run perfectly, except the transmission is shot.

My old '92 Civic used Z1 and never had a single issue in its 140,000k lifetime. ?

 

PENNZOIL says their PLATINUM LV synthetic is a direct drop in for Honda ATF. Except 9 speed transmissions (Honda or Acura ATF 3.0 or ATF 3.1)
I have the Platinum LV in my 2013 CRV AWD with no issues.

 

That is pretty much it--they used the technology suitable for 4-cylinder engines which could not handle the output of the V6, especially once they got heavier vehicles out like the Oddy, the MDX and the Pilot. It took them until about 2006 to finally get it sorted. The nice part is that they all use basically the same J-series engines (J30, J32, J35) so the newer transmissions can bolt right on and a few parts swapped over to get it back on the road.