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Torque converter or.....What else.

1.9K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  funkyfingrz  
#1 · (Edited)
I recently bought a 2010 CRV LX. 4wd Auto trans with 150k on it.

Is my vibration a torque converter or what else could it be?

It has a vibration that sounds like a deep growl. It starts when I'm at 45mph and stops about 50-52mph. It doesn't occur at any other speed. It happens when I'm cruising in that speed range so the transmission has downshifted to 4th gear I believe. This drops the Rpm to about 1,500. If I'm speeding up through the speed range, it will be at a higher rpm and a be at 3rd gear or higher if I'm speed up fast.

I can make the rumble go away by pressing my D3 button while cruising in the 45-50mph speed range. Obviously, this makes the RPM higher.

The rumble is only when my foot is on the gas pedal to maintain speed. It stops with my foot off of the gas.

I think it feels like a torque converter. at least that's what I assume it is. I tried doing a drain/fill procedure with Honda ATF and replace the external atf filter in the line that goes to the atf cooler. I did 3 drain/fills. It drained about 4 quarts each time (Luckily, I had bought extra since the owner's manual says it'll only drain 2.6qts). The old fluid was still red. It was dark but not super dark. While it shifts smoother, it didn't affect the rumble at all. I left just enough room to add some Lube guard Instant Shudder Fixx. This also did nothing.

Normally I wouldn't expect that changing the fluid and adding an additive would help a torque converter that's already acting up, but I've read so many stories on here about this stuff working with these CRV's, I thought I'd give it a shot.


So my question is, is there anything else I should look at that can give these symptoms? Anything else that can be confused as a torque converter that only vibrates at specific speed/rpm range? I'm just trying to see if I can look into everything before I commit to taking it to a transmission shop and pay the $1000ish to replace the converter.

I haven't done much else to it yet. I've changed a super dirty air filter, clean the maf sensor, changed the spark plugs and rotated the Tires. I have a fairly capable scanner (Youcanic) and it has no codes. I have some fluid to change the rear dif fluid as well. I'm not chasing anything else. Just doing a little maintenance because I don't know it's complete history.

Other than the rumble, it drives great, shifts smooth, and I'm quite happy with it.

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
DIY and you won't need to pay the transmission shop to change the torque converter.

The normal item in a torque converter that goes bad is the clutch, sometimes the stator and its clutch.

There are CV shafts that can vibrate, tires imbalanced, rear drive line, yes many other things that can be worn and vibrate.

Even bad wheel bearings can make noise.
 
#3 ·
Yes, but will those items show only at specific speed/rpm ranges? In my experience, driveshafts feel the worst at acceleration and wheel bearings are all the time.

I'd have to do a little research before I took the torque convertor off myself. Seems like a bigger job then I'm normally used to, thought I good with a clutch in a manual.

I'd prefer to know it's the issue for sure before taking on that job though.
 
#4 ·
Yes, but will those items show only at specific speed/rpm ranges? In my experience, driveshafts feel the worst at acceleration and wheel bearings are all the time.

I'd have to do a little research before I took the torque convertor off myself. Seems like a bigger job then I'm normally used to, thought I good with a clutch in a manual.

I'd prefer to know it's the issue for sure before taking on that job though.
Hello. Any update or luck fixing this issue please. I seem to have the exact same issue and the only CEL code I have is P0011 arising from VTC. I have replaced the solenoid but it seems I need to replace the VTC actuator.

Pending that fix, I'm trying to resolve this exact same issue which occurs the same way, same speed, same RPM drop and same rumble when foot is on the throttle at that speed and RPM. I'll test the D3 and see if it also corrects it at the moment. I usually have to lift my foot from the throttle and depress it a bit harder to break the 1500 RPM and break past the shudder.
 
#5 ·
I recently decided to try to upgrade my tranny on my 07 CRV 2.4 I have a cold air intake and a skunk 2 manifold and a cat back exhaust and of course I put e85 covert with fuel pump and injector’s and I bought a used Ktuner v2 and it actually runs really well. I al added a 3 row radiator and transmission cooler oh yeah and egr delete. My friend did a ecu flash and a tune and as was well until I was feeling weird shift’s I got a rebuilt transmission and I put a level 10 converter and valve body upgrade and I can not believe the difference that transmmission bolt on’s made. Made my CRV that much more fun! I have had it since 2012 and my grandfather had it before that and it’s beter today than it was yesterear and it has only had 91 octane it’s whole life and synthetic oil every 4k miles, I love this baby more today than ever! To all my CRV family members, remember that we have it all in our CRV platforms! Best of all the world’s