From the 2012 CR-V owner's manual:

Your vehicle can be towed behind a motorhome.

Perform the following procedure before towing your vehicle.
1. Check the transmission fluid level.
2. Start the engine.
3. Depress the brake pedal. Move the shift lever through all its positions.
4. Shift to D and hold for five seconds, then to N. Let the engine run for three minutes then turn it off.
5. Release the parking brake.
6. Leave the ignition switch in ACCESSORY. Make sure the steering wheel does not lock.
7. Turn off all the electric devices. Do not use any accessory power sockets. This can prevent the battery from running down.

Additional notes:

Do not exceed 65 mph
(For AWD models): To avoid damage to the AWD system, your vehicle must be towed with all four wheels on the ground.
Severe transmission damage will occur if the vehicle is shifted from R to N and then towed with the drive wheels on the ground.
Extended towing: If you tow more than 8 hours in one day, you should repeat the 'before towing you vehicle procedure' at least every 8 hours. You also need to perform the following procedure to prevent the batter from running down: Remove the 7.5 A accessory radio fuse. Make sure to reinstall the fuse before you start driving your vehicle.

 

Thanks for this info. I had just managed to get an owner's manual from the Honda site to verify this. Looking forward to get our 4th Gen CR-V in a couple of weeks.

 

I have a Blue Ox Aventa II towbar on my MH and towed a 2000 Jeep Cherokee. Traded the Jeep on a 2012 CRV EXL AWD and having a Blue Ox Adapter Plate installed, hopefully next week (end of March). Tonepome is correct, right out of Owners Manual.

One glitch: I use a Brake Buddy supplemental braking system (required over 3000 lbs in most states), which requires 12V DC power ("cig liter"). If you pull the Rad ACC 7.5A fuse, neither of the two 12V DC adapters is operable. So I plan on leaving the fuse In, plug in my Brake Buddy, and stop to smell the roses while I start the CRV engine & run thru the gears. Besides, I'm too old to drive more than 8 hours.

Alternative is to use another supplemental braking system that does not require 12V DC pwr, such as a self-contained battery operated system.

 

Update: Talked w/the installer about the Blue Ox adapter, etc. He said he will NOT violate the CRV wiring, & adds a parallel wiring harness with separate brake lights/turn signal lights. And he's going to add a hot wire from the MH to the CRV battery (round 6 pin) so the Brake Buddy will not be an issue.

 

On my 2014 interior fuse box I have two ACC 7.5A fuses. Number 19 and 20, does anyone know which is to be removed for towing with ignition switch set to Accessory. Or if both must be removed. I note that the Roadmaster Fusemaster for the 2014 CR-V is for only one fuse but is this correct because they also sell a two fuse switch.

 

This is gonna be long. For those that do NOT tow their CRV behind a motorhome, you can disregard this post.

Just (2/27/14) took my 2012 EX-L CRV (w/AWD and Nav) to Coggin Honda/JAX for oil change, Xmsn Fld/Fltr chng, AWD Diff oil chng, etc. Have 16.500 mi. Also have a Hotwire (Charging Wire) from the MH to the CRV Batt, but it never charged the CRV batt, 'cuz the CRV Nav and MID CRTs were drawing down faster than the MH was charging. I had to stop after 3 to 5 hours and run the CRV engine to charge up the battery, which discharged to about 11 Volts, or below. I learned the hard way. Initially towed the CRV too long and the Batt went dead twice. Eventually bought a new Batt, after having the flash mod (SB 12-041) done to the Alternator.

A savvy Master Tech at Coggin Honda went thru the elec diagram, and said Fuze 29 (Fuze Box UNDER THE HOOD) needs to be pulled. Fuze 29 (10A) disables the Nav and MID displays, yet leaves the two DC Outlets (for my Brake Buddy) operable. The fuze also makes the elec door lock inop, so you have to manually lock the doors. The Steering Wheel still unlocks, as well as the Lights work (DRLs, Turn Signals, etc.). I say again, this is for my 2012 EX-L CRV AWD (w/Nav & MID). OTHER YEAR MODELS AND VINs MAY DIFFER. But it's a hell of lot easier pulling Fuze 29 Under the Hood, than thrashing around upside down in front of the drivers seat, trying to pull Fuze 19 in the Interior Fuze Box. I did that Twice, only to find out that Fuze 19 disables both DC Outlets, which I need for my Brake Buddy. And Fuze 19 does NOT disable the MID; only the Nav Display.

The Fuze Box UNDER THE HOOD is labeled with fuze nrs. The labeling of Fuzes 29 (10A) and 28 (7.5A) has a square white border around the fuzes, and is marked "Backup". If you're standing in front of the car, Fuze 29 is the first fuze on the bottom. In other words, it's the most forward fuze to the front of the car. Fuze 28 disables some lights, but I didn't mess with that.

G'Luck, Will Snell

 

Further to my 2/28/14 post, I found out today (when I re-inserted Fuze 29) that I had the flwg msg on my NAV display "Anti Theft System----The nav system has lost power. Push and hold the power button for more than two seconds to enable the system......Enter Code" . Seems simple enough but my problem was I could not find the power button. Called the dealer & found out the NAV power button is also the Radio Power button (didn't know that). Pressed for 2 sec's & the NAV display worked ! Did not have to enter any code. Also the gas mileage on the MID was reset.

Will Snell