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2012 CR-V EXL Audio/Subwoofer

215K views 183 replies 53 participants last post by  groberts  
#1 ·
Hi Everyone. I picked up my 2012 EX-L in Urban Titanium this week. I've had other Hondas with the factory subwoofer (Element and Ridgeline) and it was really great and provided a lot of extra bass response. My new CR-V is definitely lacking this. When I adjust the subwoofer control it makes almost no difference between miniumum and maximum.
Just wondered if others have noticed. If that's just the way it is, are there any suggestions for upgrading the audio system without changing the head unit?
Thanks!
 
#3 ·
I have a new EX-L as well, and the sound system sounds very good. BUT, like CRVHouston, I don't find much difference between the subwoofer level at min vs max all the time. There have been a few times that I've played a song with extended bass tones and definitely noticed a difference, but when listening to the radio in general I can turn it all the way down and all the way up and not notice a difference at all. A little frustrating, let me know what you find, and I'll keep you posted if I get to the bottom of it as well!
 
#6 · (Edited)
I noticed the same thing... No discernible difference from the low to high setting and found myself here looking for answers. In fact I was curious if it was even functioning, and here's what I found...

If you reach your hand under the passenger seat from the front, you will feel the sub box. If you the reach under the front edge of the sub you can stick you fingers into the bass tube. With your fingers in the tube you can reach up with your other hand to adjust the bass level (while playing music) and you should find that the air coming out of the tube changes dramatically from the low to high end of the scale even though your (and mine) ears don't perceive a bass level change.

Oh well. Maybe there is an aftermarket upgrade I can add later.
 
#8 ·
From my last experience, the factory speakers from honda (premium sounds) are poor quality, you have to open the inside to look at the material used.. compared to the aftermarket product like alpine the difference is huge, if you are an audiophile and you like high-fidelity sound your next purchase (now that you bought already the car :) ) should be a dash kit with a good aftermarket double din radio (pioneer, kenwood...) completed with brand new speakers (alpine, boston...) You wont believe your ears after that!
 
#12 ·
CRVHouston -> I just picked up the same model (with satellite nav) same color. I really love it but as a techhead I was curious about the sub straight away. I figured it was in the dash somewhere since I didn't locate it in the rear (Element had it in the dash in previous years). Anyways, I cranked the bass on the sub to it's max level to see what it was capable of. I could hardly discern a difference. However, in some songs and formats I did notice more. I wonder if it has something to do with the road noise settings? Just a thought. I'll play with the settings and see if there is anything that can get a richer bass.

Speaking of, did the service department give you any joy on the sub (problem, adjustment, advice etc.)?

I'll post back with what I find. I'm planning on doing a lengthy test of file formats, bit rates, connection (CD, USB, Radio).

Cheers!
 
#13 ·
I don't understand why everyone thinks there is some magic adjustment to get more bass out of the subwoofer. It simply boils down to physics. It's a 6" speaker. It's technically too small to be considered a "subwoofer", but is at best, a midwoofer. It's physically incapable of reproducing low frequencies. That's it. Crank the bass setting as high as it will go, and do the same with the subwoofer level. That's all you're going to get. There's nothing more this system can give. Yes, some music will have more noticeable bass than others. It's nothing more than the bass notes being at an optimal frequency that the woofer can reproduce. If you want more bass from this system, add an aftermarket subwoofer. The manufacturer and dealer will not be able to do anything to improve the performance of what's currently there.
 
#17 ·
Cigarguy,

Actually, some 6" are very good. however, the one used in our V sucks.

www.parts-express.com <-- lots of 6" with a good sub profile.



About the sub I notice the level is too low. For FM, forget about the quality. At least, testing with regular CD or higher bit rate MP3 (192 kbp and up) will yield better quality. The sub didn't punch like bazooka or others but it adds the warm tone to the system. I listen to jazz a lots and I am ok with the setting but I agree since I used to install aftermarket audio in my previous car. This OEM is just alright.

Maybe, I'll slip the component speakers into mine : ) IMO, only front speakers upgrade should be good enough.
 
#14 ·
Not a magic adjustment but rather looking to do what we can with what we got is all. I understand your POV, what I've thrown at it trying to get more bass out of the system and paying attention in certain scenarios it appears to me that it's very possible there is something else going on with it. I won't cite anything specific at the moment but I prefer to remain optimistic and see if I can add something positive to this.
 
#15 ·
Well technically speaking.... there is more that can be done. You just need to be willing to replaced the cheap paper cone speakers for Some Quality ones. I am seriously thinking about tearing out the stock speakers (sub included) and replacing with some Polk's I'll grant you a 6" sub woofer is NOT a true sub woofer as they are too small to reproduce the lower end frequencies. However; you certainly can make them drive a bit harder with an actual Magnet and A composite or Mica speaker in lieu of cheap dried up paper. The bass is never going to bounce a person or the car around from a 6" but, it will certainly clean up the response and make it sound a whole lot better.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Well technically speaking.... there is more that can be done. You just need to be willing to replaced the cheap paper cone speakers for Some Quality ones.
The discussion here hasn't been about making the system better through replacing speakers. That's an obvious answer. The discussion has been about improving the bass using the factory subwoofer.
 
#16 ·
So what I've found on the sub-woofer just from some sampling of my own is a little bit surprising. I used the same three songs on both CD and digital formats all at 128kbps formats. I chose a classical piece, rock and a electronica track. The classical piece brought the most bass out of all three but also had the least amount of bass. The rock was more of the even or just right amount of bass while the electronica track was far removed from it's typical bass heavy grooves.

Draw what you will from the above but I think the sub can't handle higher loads because of power, the speaker itself or perhaps a combination of both (I'm thinking the later). Either which way, it depends on what music you listen to as to what kind of response you'll get. I'm all over the spectrum as to what I listen to so its fine for casual everyday music since this CRV is for the family. However, if it were my own personal vehicle, an aftermarket bass system would be needed.
 
#23 ·
Cigarguy,

I am an home audio person. I do not like the overpowered bass. My philosophy to the sound system is the sound reproduction.
Teenager style super sub won't impress me at all. Our Sub in CR-V's quality is just poor. It might be the driver's quality, the box design or an overrated amplifier itself. The output of the sub is just too low.

Could you give me what are the criteria when it comes to the auto audio? what are to look for ? Thanks.

I am trying to tell Tuktanuk that there are a lots of factors that contributes to the quality of sound such as a voice coils, a magnet, a cone and a box design: bass reflex (ported) and acoustic suspension subwoofer. Paper is not a bad material based on a testing. Bass production from paper cone is great. However, I won't be able to provide an article to support at this time. I read it long time ago.

I am an anti-kevlar :p lol
 
#25 ·
Kbook, you are correct that there are many factor that go into choosing the right sub. Probably the biggest misconception is that having a good quality speaker and amplifier is all that's needed. Honestly, the biggest part of good sound in a car is knowing how to properly use the equipment you're installing. I've heard mulit-thousand dollar systems sound terrible because the installer didn't understand how to get the most out of the components, and I've heard average equipment sound fantastic because the installer understood what needed to be done. For sound quality, I always prefer a sealed enclosure. Typically, the sound is smoother, the low end extension is better, and it doesn't produce the boominess that a vented, isobaric, or 7th order enclosure will. I like the sound of a poly cone, and they usually hold up better to the extreme heat and cold it's exposed to in a car environment. Unlike home audio, don't get too hung up on power ratings, magnet size, etc. I usually look for frequency response of 20hz or lower, and the highest sensitivity I can find. Being in a car automatically gives you a 3 db boost over using the sub in a home environment, so going super large is just overkill. I always use a single 10" in my personal cars and feel that it's just right in being able to reproduce the low frequencies without being too overpowering. Remember, the goal isn't to FEEL the low end, it's to hear it. Without a properly tuned sub in a car audio system, people are missing SO much of their favorite recordings, regardless of what type of music it is.
 
#26 ·
save the filling rattling bass for the kids..... I've got plenty of years experience with Audio systems and components behind me and I know what it takes to design and install a system for clarity. I was thinking of just replacing the 6" sub woofer with something a bit better quality but I may end up just replacing it all together. Honda has got a lot of work to do before they are even on par with other auto makers as far as sound volume and quality/clarity. I honestly never expected something beautiful sounding but what I have now is just horrid. Changes are abound as soon as time/money allow for it. Sad really; Just as I thought I was getting a bit on in age to be crawling around in cars replacing components.... here we go again.
 
#28 ·
Has anybody considered taking out the stock sub and replacing the whole thing with something like this?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?PartNumber=267-7178

There's also a BOSS 8" and 10" models on the site too. I was looking at the stock sub the other day and it looks like it would be pretty easy to take out and replace. My only concern is it looks just like 2 wires coming to the stock, so that means it is getting an amplified signal already. So I'm not sure how good one of these would sound using the high level input from an amplified signal. Any thoughts on if it would be worth it or if it would just make it sound like crap?
 
#29 ·
That's pretty cool. Do you think it will fit where the stock one goes? Not sure how it will sound since the stock is already amplified but may be worth some more research. I was thinking of just replacing the speaker with this one:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-831

I know its a 5.25 and the stock is a 6" but a spacer would work. Still deciding though and will upload picks no matter what route I go. I just can't seem to find a 6" sub anywhere.
 
#30 ·
You would need to install an LOC like the one in this thread: http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums...-electronics/14057-installed-jl-audio-compact-sub-tiny-amp-active-loc-pics.html
Having said that; If I were going to go the powered sub route; it would certainly not be a Pyle or Boss system. Boss and Pyle are really inferior products and are cheap for a reason. I was thinking of a 6" sub myself but in the end; at least an 8" is needed for the low end Frequency reproduction with a 10" being optimal. In the 8" size; it may still be possible to install under the seat but; the factory sub measurements should still be taken to be sure they'll fit. The problem then becomes; the Passenger is going to have one hell of a ride with an actual sub right under their rear end. I'm still flopping around with what I should do for my own system but, I'm thinking I might end up with a sub in the rear of the CR-V.

Try looking into these:
Kicker 11SH8
Sound Ordnance B-8PT
 
#33 · (Edited)
Technically, there isn't a 6" driver on the market that should be classified as a "subwoofer" even though many companies claim to have them.

It seems like people don't want to accept this information as fact, and that's fine. Honestly, I could be making all of this up. I could just be some chump that can become whoever he wants to from behind a keyboard. The fact of the matter is, my family camps. We need all of the precious cargo space we can get in the back of the CRV. I had intended to build a custom enclosure for an 8" sub to put under the passenger's seat and just live with it, even if the performance wasn't want I wanted. After taking the seat out and inspecting the factory sub location, there's no way, short of extensive fiberglass work, to build an enclosure that will fit properly (there are heater ducts and other things that snake their way through the factory enclosure. Doing the fiberglass work wasn't a problem for me, but by the time I created enough depth in the enclosure to house a sub that would actually make a difference, it would be interfering with the function of the seat. I tried every possible way I could to make this work. Want to know what my solution was? An enclosure in the cargo area with a 10" sub.
 
#38 ·
I'm all in here. Bought my 2012 CR-V a couple weeks ago, and I love everything about it with the exception of the pathetic sound system (Specifically the "SUB") Worried about the warranty. HELP!!! I'll be off to Al & Ed's to see what they say. I can't live like this.
 
#39 ·
Unfortunately, I don't have pictures of the install since it wasn't one of my more elaborate systems. I just used the outputs straight from the head unit into a JL Audio 300/4 amp. The amp accepts high or low level inputs so that negated the need for a line level adapter. I'm running the amp in 3 channel mode with 2 channels running Diamond Audio 6.5" components, and the third channel running a JL 10W3 sub. Very simple, but major difference in performance.
 
#40 ·
Just got my 2012 CRV today.. I have owned a 2002/2005 in the past.. in the 05 I put an Infinity Basslink in the back hatch area.. was hoping that 7 years later the factory system would be better.. but it's not.. may have to consider another Basslink.
 
#41 ·
A basslink is not going to be enough I'm afraid. I've been tinkering with audio files and re-leveling them a bit. They may sound like crap outside the CR-V but; when played in the CR-V; they actually give the system some life. Granted; the Puny 5.25" sub sucks and there is no getting around that. IF it were me; I'd be looking into a JL Audio Clean Sweep!! Bottom line here is the way in which the Honda audio systems are tuned to produce what they feel is good sound is all wrong. Simply adding an amplifier to a stock head unit's out puts are going to give you the same fugly sound processing. Need to install a clean sweep so it takes the tweaked sound processing profile from the factory unit out of the loop and just delivers plain, clean signal to an amp. Basically; the issue is not just in the cheap speakers but also the head unit. Simply replacing one will not really deliver any appreciable results.
 
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