Look up fuel injectors on this site.

 

You might have a leaky or poor-spray-pattern injector.
Often, you won't get a CEL from marginal causes, especially (as with this) the engine smooths out in a short amount of time.

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A good diagnostic step would be to start the cold engine, if it runs rough shut down immediately. Then remove and inspect the spark plugs. Variations or wetness would point to the cylinders to investigate.

BTW, we had that on our kid's Fit once...had loose spark plugs. Soon as the engine warmed, they would tighten enough to stop the sputter.

 

I second the advice above. Try getting a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. Add it to a tank of gas. Cross your fingers and drive the car for a bit.

 

Try getting a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. Add it to a tank of gas.

Make sure you use the injector cleaner 'as directed'. That is, add a bottle on an almost-empty tank, drive for at least 15 - 20 miles, then fill up.

But I view fuel cleaners as prevention...not to cure issues.

 

-Car has 105k miles on it and has nothing done to it except oil changed since 40k

What MM codes have shown so far, and have you done them by the manual? Top tier gas only if possible; Techron fuel cleaner is good.

Be very careful cleaning throttle.

Amazon.com

 

The only MM codes I have seen so far are for oil changes. I've been surpirsed that I haven't seen other MM Sub Items. My car has 105k miles and I've never seen a code for any of the following:

Rotate tires 2 ● Replace air cleaner element*2 ● Replace dust and pollen filter*3 ● Inspect drive belt 3 ● Replace transmission fluid*4 4 ● Replace spark plugs ● Inspect valve clearance 5 ● Replace engine coolant 6 ● Replace rear differential fluid 7 ● Replace brake fluid*5 9 ● Inspect front and rear brakes ● Inspect these items: • Tie rod ends, steering gearbox, and boots • Suspension components • Driveshaft boots • Brake hoses and lines (including ABS/VSA®) • All fluid levels and condition of fluids • Exhaust system# • Fuel lines and connections#

 

That does not seem right, all codes probably should have shown with the exception of 6.

You bought when? Code 7 for AWD only.

 

Bought used in 2019 with 44k miles on it, it has AWD and as I mentioned I've only ever seen MM for oil changes which was suprising to me

 

Ok, well let us know what happens after you do all maintenance. Not sure if someone reset your codes or it was an error; check the settings.

 

I bet that someone (Garage or you, if you reset yourself) has re-initialized ALL the MM notifications....

Because I keep track of that stuff, I found that eventually, I had to determine change intervals myself, due to resetting/turning off the 'wrench' icon.

Ahhh, just like in the Good Ol' Days...

 

This weekend I changed the spark plugs, oil, tramission fluid, differential, brake fluid. Everything looked fine. I will need a week or so to see if the problem persists but will post results. Here is a pic of my 105k spark plugs. Still need to get fuel injector cleaner and will try that ASAP. Drove 150 highway miles after changing all the fluids and was getting 41.5MPG so seems like it's at least riding well. Despite 105k miles, I was suprised that the brake pads and rotors are still smooth and have never been changed on the car and pads still have a .25" left so going to leave them until the fall.

 

Sounds good, my brakes are the same.

You able to top off battery and charge it?

 

Since replacing these items 4 days ago I haven't seen the same issue when starting my car. I did notice last night driving home when in bumper to bumper traffic there was one instance when the car was in low RPM, probably idling, and I took my foot off the break before applying power and the car shuddled for a second and then stopped. I will continue to monitor my car and post back here either way. I suspect maybe the mornings haven't been cold enough but the issue popping up yesterday makes me think this saga will continue sooner or later. I will also track down some injector cleaner for the next fill too.

Good idea, I will check my battery, that would be an easy test. Wouldn't think it's related since I'd expect the car the have trouble starting, not start immediately and then shudder for a bit but will check.

 

Did you clean throttle? Not sure if you mentioned it directly.

 

No, thanks for the reminder I will try that as well

 

The tips of two of those plugs were black so they were done and due to be replaced.

At 105k miles, you are about ready for a valve clearance check. That was $350 at my dealer.

Sent from my SM-G990U2 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks for posting that. I added injector cleaner to my gas, still starting rough, seems to be getting worse. Going to take it to a dealer to get scanned to see if they can diagnose it. Cleaning the throttle body and/or injectors is a little bit to far out of my comfort level at the moment.

UPDATE: Despite not having an dash lights on my friend used his ODB meter to check for codes. He found a cyclinder 3 minfire. I plan to number the coils and move them around so I can see if the misfire moves with the coils. If it does I know I have a coil issue. If it doesn't I'm betting injectors.

 

Good to know, but hard to say if that was before the plugs were changed. Good to move coils around as noted though!

 

Should've mentioned the cylinder 3 misfire was a pending code.

Update: Cleaned the MA air flow sensor last night, didn't help. Riding home last night there were some very noticable engine bumps, felt like misfires but would expect a dash light to come on with that many misfires, maybe 50 over ten minutes. Driving today and this afternoon was on the highway the "misfires" were pretty significcant. Problem is defintiely getting worse. Labled and swapped the coils around and cleared the pending codes. Drove it on the highway for 10 minutes, didn't feel super rough but drove it pretty soft. Checked for pending codes (misfires) after swapping the coils but there were none after 10 minutes of the highway. Hoping on the drive home tonight I will see the misfire move to the cylinder that I moved coil 3 to, but if it stays with cyclinder 3 it's likely an injector problem. If it is injectors might try the sea foam fix in the throttle body with the engine running to clean the injectors.

 

If it is injectors might try the sea foam fix in the throttle body with the engine running to clean the injectors.

Probably do more harm than good. Run it in the fuel tank is safest way, but doubt it will do much.

 

I'll be real curious to hear how the Sea Foam cleaning goes for you (and your injector tips).

If it is eventually that blackened mess, on the tips of the injectors (from my earlier pics), that is the culprit to your issues, I'm wondering how well the Sea Foam works on those. There's plenty of video's online of folks trying to clean the top of their internal engine with Sea Foam - I'm curious if a soaking of Sea Foam would do anything to clean the hydrocarbon crap on the tips of the injectors.

 

I’m curious too, also don’t want to do anything that would wreck things long term but have seen some “year out” tests from sea foam and looked fine. More research to do. Have a car trip this weekend and can’t get a dealer to scan until Tuesday so will be my last resort otherwise no trip. Really hoping it’s just a bad coil, that would be an easy and cheap fix but don’t think it will be

 

Sea Foam is a petroleum product and is widely considered safe to use in any gasoline or diesel powered engine. There are a few who will state the the engine cleaning it does, could harm the O2 sensors in the downstream exhaust - which is technically possible considering the crap it's cleaning out of your fuel system and upper engine.

If you're using Sea Foam, are you going to use the aerosol spray version to spray into the throttle body or feed in the liquid? The liquid Sea Foam can also be put in your fuel as a fuel additive/cleaner.

Wow...I just looked at the prices on Amazon for Sea Foam! I remember not more than 10 years ago a can would go for $5-7!

(Absolutely👍) Yes, you can use Sea Foam Spray to clean a turbo gas engine

 

What’s confusing to me is that I had at separate times I saw a “misfire in cylinder 3” and later a “bank 1 running rich” pending codes on my ODB2 meter. After clearing any pending codes yesterday I've driven for 45 minutes and haven’t seen any more pending codes but car is still running rough. Since the car is still riding very rough I expected to see some type of pendign code. During normal highway driving, especially noticeable during acceleration, not just on startup so something is definitely wrong and the pending codes don't seem to pick that up.


From what I understand from reading online about misfires and codes (in general), one misfire will cause a pending code, another misfire will cause the fault/dash light to go on. If that’s true then I wonder if the rough riding I feel on the highway are actual misfires or if the car just isn’t detecting them.

 

PO172 ?

The 1st reply to your thread...

(2023) Fuel Injector Replacement Discussion [Merged...

New thread as the last one has been retired due to members not obeying the Site Rules and spoiling that thread. So we've started afresh.... Thanks.

www.crvownersclub.com

Can't comment about the misfires, Po300 sets, and then a specific cylinder with code. Not using a high quality recordable scanner does not help a lot.

 

Thanks for the refereance, need to read through that Thread in more detail but dealer said that TSB didn't apply to my vehicle and they hadn't seen many issues with injectors...a few in the last month and those TSB issues are related to the 3.5L engines.

Dealer said a scan would be helpful, could show if the injectors are stuck open. After explaining more symptoms he said it sounded like a valve adjustment would be the first place to look but tech would have to decide if that was the right direction. Also in that thread someone mentions multiple times to their dealer about the TSB and the dealer didn't know so still worth pushing on.

 

When you read the Injector thread (and the locked predecessor thread), WARNING - there are close to 500 posts on the subject. As with most internet posts, some go off on some crazy tangent but after you read through the thread, you get a general idea of what to expect with symptoms, codes, and ultimately in dealing with the dealer servicing department and Honda North America as it relates to injector issues..

Honda did a Warranty Extension for 10years - 150k mile on the 2018-19 Odyssey, 2016-19 Pilot, 2017-19 Ridgeline V injectors due to them not being manufactured to proper specifications -

The fuel injectors may not have been manufactured to proper specifica􀆟ons. As a result, debris from the
high pressure pump or the fuel injector machining process may cause internal wear or clogging inside
one or more injectors. Also, the PCM so􀅌ware may misinterpret sensor inputs as a deteriorated cataly􀆟c
converter.

I wonder if this will extend eventually to the CR-V and other 1.5L turbo engines that seem to have injector related issues.

Personally, I'd have trust issues with a dealer, if they indicated they had not been seeing CR-V's in with injector issues - There's a Honda dealer mechanic who made a video on youtube of changing out the injectors, in which he states he's done MANY Injector swaps. Granted, he's in the Boston metro area and sees a lot of CR-V's...but I'm guessing that the fact that the injector issue has been stickied up here and there are lots of other write-ups about the issue on the internet, it's a lot more common than any of us know....but the service managers know! And so does Honda!

 

Research this page very well! Don't think valves are the issue.

(2023) Fuel Injector Replacement Discussion [Merged...

New thread as the last one has been retired due to members not obeying the Site Rules and spoiling that thread. So we've started afresh.... Thanks.

www.crvownersclub.com

This thread might just get merged here anyways. Best of luck!

 

This thread is starting to go off the rails and turn into an injector thread. Please stay on topic otherwise it will get locked. OP, please updates when you know the issue.

 

Ok, lets get this thread back on the rails...

This thread is titled: 2017 1.5L T Starts Rough and is related to misfires... We shall discuss misfires and the OP's diagnostics, including inspection/cleaning towards finding the reason for his misfires!

Frankly I can understand the natural tendency for a CR-V group to bring up the the dreaded "I" word. It's similar to when some instantly respond to an issue as a battery related issue - it's just a common issue with this generation of CR-V.

OP, I really am looking forward to hear your experience with using Sea Foam - if you go that route.