Do it yourself, cost about $30.00. Make sure you keep the receipt. I didn't realize it is a 15,000 mile interval. I thought it was like 30,000.

I will have to adjust my maintenance schedule.

 

You don't really need to adjust anything; just do it when your MM tells you to. It takes a lot of factors into account, not just miles.

 

Has anyone changed the rear differential fluid themselves? I can change my own oil but this is the first vehicle I've owned with a rear differential.
I'm looking at these parts
Crush washers for drain and fill bolts
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Genuin.../B00ET6V2KI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511275237&sr=8-3&keywords=honda+94109-20000
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Genuin...00ET6UXLC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511275213&sr=8-3&keywords=honda+90471-px4-000

Fluid x 2
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Genuin...=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KMBFHTF125D1TRN6QVG1#customerReviews

Fluid pump
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Genuin...=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KMBFHTF125D1TRN6QVG1#customerReviews

Youtube video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfEc8zI2Wz0

Seems straight forward but dealer wants $105 and Midas wants $130. Am I missing something?

 

I changed my own, easier than changing the oil.

This thread will help you.


Search this thread

Black Pearl's 2007 Rear Differential Fluid Change Photo Essay

 

The first change is at 15k then every 30k.

 

System says "replace the all wheel drive oil". I'm floored that this needs to be done at only 14,000 miles and less than a year old. I don't do any off-road driving or anything crazy.

2017 EX-L AWD

IIRC the first diff fluid change is near 15K miles and afterwards it's 30K miles. (Someone can correct me if the 2017s have a different schedule for Code 6)

Remember, maintenance for oil changes comes up via an algorithm that takes driving habits into account, but other services display when an oil change is 'nearby' their scheduled mileage.

Another thing to remember is that the newer Vs have a 'smarter' AWD system. It engages from a standing start and during other conditions. So, the clutches in the diff are called upon to 'do their thing' more often than on the older, passive AWD cars like mine.

 

I’ve done my 17 on my own as well. Super easy job dealer here sells the oil and crush washers at a fair price.

 

The "early" schedule for changing that "AWD" oil the first time is simply because the vehicle is new and the first oil will pick up any particles left over from the manufacturing process and from the initial break-in. After that it will go a long time between changes. My brother and I both change our own oil and its a fairly simple process. I think the last time I did mine it was well under twenty minutes from going to get my jack to putting the car back on the ground...and I didn't rush!

There are threads here with details and maybe even pictures. I recall the first time mine was needed on my 2012 the dealer quoted me $180 (he is a big rip off) and I got the biggest smile when I heard that number as I was saying "no thanks".

 

Seems easy enough. Easier than an oil change w/ filter. I just can't understand why the dealer would charge $100 for this when they charge $30 - $40 for an oil change.

 

I just can't understand why the dealer would charge $100 for this when they charge $30 - $40 for an oil change.

Routine Oil changes are 'loss leaders' that get you into the shop, where they suggest other repairs that are needed. I have lots of stories. Such as the suggestion that my car needed wiper blades, when I had replaced them 3 weeks prior!

The advise to say 'no thanks' (my favorite is, "I'll take it under advisement") is a good one. Check back here if you are unsure.

 

All my driving is in FWD mode, no snow, paved roads only. The rear diff will almost never be operated. Maybe a trip to the slopes every other year. So its very likely to have 0mi on the diff, while 15k on the car. Does the Maintenance Minder system take that into account? I know there's a time element to oil changes, so will it keep a separate time/mileage on operation in AWD mode?

Also, part time 4wd drives system that require manually switching to 4wd typically recommend engaging the 4wd periodically to keep the fluids from being stagnant. Is there any such recommendation for the CRV AWD? Or, since the AWD is engaged automatically by the computer, will it automatically engage it periodically if it hadn't been engaged for a while?

 

All my driving is in FWD mode, no snow, paved roads only. The rear diff will almost never be operated. Maybe a trip to the slopes every other year. So its very likely to have 0mi on the diff, while 15k on the car. Does the Maintenance Minder system take that into account?

The prop shaft and rear axles are always connected to the diff (well, hopefully!) spinning the gears inside it, which breaks down the oil over time. It's important to change the diff oil as prescribed by Honda because the AWD system uses hydraulic pumps driven by this oil to detect wheel slip, and determine when, and how much power to send to to the rear wheels.

AWD systems always add a degree of extra complexity and cost of ownership, but I think Honda's system, while perhaps not technically the best, is at least easy to maintain. ~$10 in fluid (like, 1.05-1.1 quarts) and $1 in washers every 30K miles is cheap too.

 

The rear diff runs a lot more than previous ones have. Using the AWD Torque Distribution Monitor in certain trims shows how often it kicks on.

 

I just went for a drive with the awd monitor on. Indeed the torque is being sent to the rear wheels. I incorrectly thought rear wheels only engage when the fronts are slipping. Which is what this test imply, https://youtu.be/9cuZYTQLfA0.

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I can validate this is one minor annoyance with Honda - my wife's 14 Pilot 4WD required this at 13k miles (and as others have said, subsequently every 30k miles) at the cost of $80. Not a big deal, but surprised why it is needed so early and so often.

 

I will repeat this: "The "early" schedule for changing that "AWD" oil the first time is simply because the vehicle is new and the first oil will pick up any particles left over from the manufacturing process and from the initial break-in. "

The unit has clutch plates that rub when it engages. Like any machined parts they will "wear in" and leave some small particles in the oil. Also, when any machine is made no matter how well they clean it when its all put together and the parts wear in together there will always be a bit of debris left over. You should see the grey pile in the bottom of a typical automatic transmission the first time you pull the pan on one. It looks terrible but its quite normal and doesn't hurt a thing, just "Break in dust".

That AWD unit does a lot of work as it engages and releases all the time. There are lots of parts in there including the clutches and friction plates that engage to work the magic of computerized AWD. It does need to break in and it does put some stress on the oil as they clutches do "slip" as the smoothly engage. All those things affect the life of the oil. Its a very simple job to change the oil. If you don't want to do it yourself I am sure you can find a local shop to do it. I think its much easier and quicker than an engine oil change, if you have the little pump to get the new oil in.

 

Someone already linked my YouTube video of changing the rear differential fluid. This is a link to my maintenance videos: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL0pAqdmfaJaIsZr8xUNNvONksOC8Bc-ll

 

One user already posted my YouTube video. My description & comments list specific parts. I hope it is helpful: https://youtu.be/FfEc8zI2Wz0

 

I just did the B-1-6 service on my wife's 2017 Touring (oil/filter change, tire rotation, differential fluid change).

Pretty much the same as our 2005 CR-V, just slightly different locations for the drain/fill bolts. If you have the tools, it's an easy service to do.

Oh, and this was done at just over 20,000 miles.

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