[harrower]

Those points are where the jack stands have to go. They can only be used for jacking for tire changes, where you don't get under the car. (They can also be used with four-point shop lifts, where the lifts are equipped with backup safety catches as part of the basic design.)

If I can use these points for changing a tire - why can't I use these points for service the car?

 

[sirwired]

As I said, those are the points the jack stands have to go. You can't use them for the stands if you've raised the car using the same point. Replacing a tire doesn't require getting underneath the vehicle, so if the jack fails or the car falls off you won't be injured, unless you are doing it wrong. (The car will be injured, but you'll be fine) Any car you get underneath MUST be supported by jackstands; jacks can (and do) fail suddenly.

The cheap jacks in the trunk of the car are often called "widowmakers" after the number of people that use them for oil changes and learn (briefly) just how terrible they are. They are nearly-inadequate for their listed task of emergency tire changing, and deadly-terrible for any other use. But even fancy hydraulic jacks costing $100's can suddenly fail, with fatal results.

 

[hans471+]

As I said, those are the points the jack stands have to go. You can't use them for the stands if you've raised the car using the same point.

Right. Use your floor jack on the "frame" rails and then you can put your jackstands on the jack point a.k.a "pinch weld". As you may know the car has this strong part of the structure that acts as a frame. It runs down both sides and then has location points where the front sub-frame and rear suspension bolt into. These are strong areas and will easily support the weight of the vehicle. Be careful of how far back from the front wheels you place jackstands. The Center of Gravity of most FWD cars is about where the steering wheel is. You may have noticed this if you put your jack further back and lift the car. The entire side of the car will raise up. You can actually use one jack location to pull off both front and rear wheels at the same time.
But I don't recommend playing around with things you aren't sure of. I have seen more than one vehicle fall off jacks or even four point lifts while up in the air because the mechanic (technician) wasn't careful about where he lifted the vehicle and it fell when he removed a part. While working for a major car maker we had to teach proper lifting during every class regardless of what the class was about due to all the law suits that were coming up over cars falling off jacks and lifts and injuring and even killing people. So my nature is to be cautious. Like I said, I lost a personal friend to a vehicle falling on him while up on a jack.

 

[ArrestMeRed]

Glad I bit the bullet and bought an AC Hydraulics jack years ago. It is very low profile for my weekend toy, yet has a long tongue and a high lift. It should work well on the new CR-V.
http://www.ac-hydraulic.dk/us/products/hydraulic-jacks/dk13hlq/

I also have a couple of cross beam adaptors that may come in handy as well.
http://www.ac-hydraulic.dk/us/products/t3/

There's no substitute for having the right tool for the job at hand.

 

[Isko]

Our cars have a nice, sleek, underside. The consequence? All the places seasoned DIY-ers might have jacked up the car, like subframe bolts or control arm bushings are all covered up.

Previous CR-V's had nice reinforced plates at the front and rear of the vehicle. Ours? Not so much. My Craftsman 2 1/4T trolley jack I've used for fifteen years is useless.

Let's start with the easy one, the rear: The official jack point is the rear towing hook. Easy to get to, but so high in the air that my general-purpose jack won't go high enough to lift the wheels off the ground.

The front one? Even worse. It's the oblong plate with a 1" hole in the middle just behind the front axle, right smack dab in the middle of the chassis. Net? Only long-reach jacks need apply.

This isn't the end of the world, but I was not really wanting to buy a new jack in order to safely raise my car in the air. Off to Harbor Freight for me to find one that'll work. And I guess a new pair of stands while I'm at it.

This guy doesnt know where the right jacking spots are...2015, 2016 and 2017 crv have the same jacking spot. " Rear towing hook?" What are you talking about. And front with hole... what are you looking at.... Seriously... Oh come on your misleading everyone here.

 

[basque30]

I came to the conclusion that this forum is just full of inexperienced mechanically inclined people with 0 knowledge and of no help. Very different than the other honda forums i use for my s2000 and prelude. Kinda sucks because this is the only crv forum as far as i can find..

 

[jimbob15]

Here is a helpful link, albeit about the '15, likeley the same as '17:
https://www.bing.com/images/search?...d=cl6rZbiu&simid=608011085219759723&thid=OIP.cl6rZbiuuZ0p0fCrD5Y6MwEsCo&first=1

 

[isitlive]

Here is a helpful link, albeit about the '15, likeley the same as '17:
https://www.bing.com/images/search?...d=cl6rZbiu&simid=608011085219759723&thid=OIP.cl6rZbiuuZ0p0fCrD5Y6MwEsCo&first=1

Thanks for the link.

 

[DIY Guy]

I came to the conclusion that this forum is just full of inexperienced mechanically inclined people with 0 knowledge and of no help.

You hit that nail on the head. I said the same thing to my wife several months ago. I'm sure a lot of them don't have much for tools either.

 

[aaron.b]

I came to the conclusion that this forum is just full of inexperienced mechanically inclined people with 0 knowledge and of no help. Very different than the other honda forums i use for my s2000 and prelude. Kinda sucks because this is the only crv forum as far as i can find..

So tell me what you bring to the table? You need to realize that everyone on this forum has a vehicle that is still new to them and they are still learning and figuring things out.

I for one have done very little with my new crv but my past vehicles I have done most if not all of the maintenance on myself. I've used forums to help me learn how to do most of this including all upgrades I've done on my own. Most on here have less than a couple thousand miles on their cars so most have done nothing other than drive their cars to this point - what they are made to do!

I've found this forum very useful so far. I've used others tips to install led headlights, fogs, cargo, and reverse lights. I've also used suggestions to fight Honda on the hd radio exl debacle. I've also learned of a great source to purchase hondacare from at a great price.

Not trying to thread drift here but what exactly have you brought to the table on this forum, other than caking people out for having limited technical knowledge?

 

[freshlysqueezed]

Well said, Aaron.

 

[sirwired]

This guy doesnt know where the right jacking spots are...2015, 2016 and 2017 crv have the same jacking spot. " Rear towing hook?" What are you talking about. And front with hole... what are you looking at.... Seriously... Oh come on your misleading everyone here.

Here is a helpful link, albeit about the '15, likeley the same as '17:
https://www.bing.com/images/search?...d=cl6rZbiu&simid=608011085219759723&thid=OIP.cl6rZbiuuZ0p0fCrD5Y6MwEsCo&first=1

FFS, people, the '17 is a completely different car built on an entirely different chassis vs. the Gen4. Surprise, surprise, since the chassis is different, there's new jack points.

That rear hook you posted a picture of from the '15? On the '17, that nice flat plate for your jack isn't there you must use the hook itself. Which you'd know if you'd actually LOOKED at a '17, instead of just spouting off about something you have precisely zero direct knowledge of. Just hunching over at your local Honda dealership would have been enough.

On the front? NO plate at all anywhere near the front bumper. The central jack point (which I got directly out of the '17 factory service manual, instead of just assuming it was the same as the previous generation) is exactly as I described. It's in the center of the chassis about a foot behind the front axles. I mentioned the hole to make it easier to identify. Again, if you actually LOOKED at a 2017, you'd see that helpful plate right near the front bumper on the Gen4 does not exist.

I got both of these right out of the 2017 factory service information. Where did you develop these pearls of wisdom? Oh, that's right, from looking at your completely different earlier CR-V. I've seen the official info on the jack points for the earlier models; yep, they are exactly as you describe, and not the same as the points for the '17.

I've come the the conclusion that this forum is no different from the rest of the internet; occasionally visited by people that want to pretend they know more than they do, and act like an authority on things they know little about. Did it occur to you there's a reason there's a separate forum for the Gen5? Did you bother to read my very first post in the thread where I discussed how it was different from the previous models? No, you didn't. You simply decided to state, without checking of any sort, that it was the same, and then expound on how stupid and ignorant everybody else is.

 

[bubbaken]

I've been waiting All night for this response

 

[Isko]

Our cars have a nice, sleek, underside. The consequence? All the places seasoned DIY-ers might have jacked up the car, like subframe bolts or control arm bushings are all covered up.

Previous CR-V's had nice reinforced plates at the front and rear of the vehicle. Ours? Not so much. My Craftsman 2 1/4T trolley jack I've used for fifteen years is useless.

Let's start with the easy one, the rear: The official jack point is the rear towing hook. Easy to get to, but so high in the air that my general-purpose jack won't go high enough to lift the wheels off the ground.

The front one? Even worse. It's the oblong plate with a 1" hole in the middle just behind the front axle, right smack dab in the middle of the chassis. Net? Only long-reach jacks need apply.

This isn't the end of the world, but I was not really wanting to buy a new jack in order to safely raise my car in the air. Off to Harbor Freight for me to find one that'll work. And I guess a new pair of stands while I'm at it.

I hope this picture serves as an Evidence that this guy is misleading most of you. He was saying "BAD NEWS FOR DIY-ers and its hard to lift your crv because of this and that....And its been same jacking point from 2015 to 2017. What you say boys?

 

[bubbaken]

Bahaha you are totally missing the point Isko. We all know how to read the manual and that you can jack it there for tire changes.

 

[frap]

Isko,

Thank you for the pictures. The issue is, that, once you jack up the car like that, where do you put the jack stands?

For changing a tire, the setup in your pictures is OK, but you should not be going under the car with just the jack as your support.

Typically there is a front and rear jack point you can use to raise the car so you can fit jack stands on the jack points you show in your picture. Then, you can change the oil/trans. fluid/etc. safely.

The point of this thread is that apparently there is no "front" jack point that is easily accessible from the front of the car (on my Accord it was in front of the engine). The "front" jack point is in the center of the car around the front axel, so it is behind the engine and between the wheels. This may require a special jack to reach. I have not tested this on my CR-V but I understand the concern and I'm disappointed it is not easier.

 

[sirwired]

Isko, as the other two have said, and has been mentioned repeatedly throughout this thread, those points are for tire changing. When the car is in the air, the stands have to go there, meaning the jack must go somewhere else, unless you have a death wish.

The service jack points are where I've repeatedly stated they are located, and are quite different from the Gen4.

 

[Isko]

Our cars have a nice, sleek, underside. The consequence? All the places seasoned DIY-ers might have jacked up the car, like subframe bolts or control arm bushings are all covered up.

Previous CR-V's had nice reinforced plates at the front and rear of the vehicle. Ours? Not so much. My Craftsman 2 1/4T trolley jack I've used for fifteen years is useless.

Let's start with the easy one, the rear: The official jack point is the rear towing hook. Easy to get to, but so high in the air that my general-purpose jack won't go high enough to lift the wheels off the ground.

The front one? Even worse. It's the oblong plate with a 1" hole in the middle just behind the front axle, right smack dab in the middle of the chassis. Net? Only long-reach jacks need apply.

This isn't the end of the world, but I was not really wanting to buy a new jack in order to safely raise my car in the air. Off to Harbor Freight for me to find one that'll work. And I guess a new pair of stands while I'm at it.

This is more easier then. This is what i use for changing oil and other stuff under the chassis. More safer and Faster. Just drive on it and its lifted. Solved.

https://m.canadiantire.ca/#/products/photos/0090064P/30090064P?storeClearance=false

 

[genuser]

Honda has "stiffeners" for parts of the body reinforced for the purpose of jacking up or attaching accessories etc.

On a 2017 CRV EX:
* Rear jack point: This may be Part# 27 crossmember, jack stiffener in this diagram: http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts.../view-honda-parts-catalog-detail.asp?m=2017-cr-v-5-ex-awd-cvt&sn=&b=B++4910&dl=

* Front Jack point: I didn't see a part called stiffener. Your best bet may the base of the U shaped front sub-frame, not the front brace. Part#1: http://estore.honda.com/honda/parts...ts/view-honda-parts-catalog-detail.asp?m=2017-cr-v-5-ex-awd-cvt&sn=&b=B++48&dl=

And Yes, you need a long reach floor jack to reach the base of that U. My Nissan Juke is this way. I have a Bug Red 3-Ton that has the reach if I lay the handle close to ground.

 

[sirwired]

Yes, that rear "crosssmember, jack stiffener" is, in practice, the rear towing hook because the rest of that part is under a cover. (This isn't necessarily a huge issue except for the fact it's rather raised off the ground.)

And that front point is the exact place I've been saying all along is the factory front point. Didn't know it was the base of a "U" because you can't actually see the subframe that well (all those covers.) The car certainly doesn't have a jack point right underneath the front bumper like previous models.