If all the lights were flickering when you tried to start it hat is a good indication of a failed or failing battery. I've seen this twice and each time a new battery was the answer to the problem. Try charging the battery to see if it will take a charge battery voltage should be about 13.9 volts, 12 volts is low with the battery doing nothing, cranking shouldn't pull it down to 3 volts.

 

There are two main grounds, G1 & G2. G2 is a heavy gauge wire that jumpers across the the top engine mount on the right side of the engine block. For G1 just follow the two cables coming off the negative battery terminal.

 

Appreciate the diagram will see in the morning and let you know, thanks for the help

 

BTW, Ground point G1 is you main ground / current carrier. It ties the chassis, transmission case and negative battery terminal at a single point with a heavy gauge cable. G2 at the top engine mount is a lighter gauge, about a #12 AWG wire.

 

Hope the grounding fixes your problem.
However, when my recently replaced starter failed, I had similar symptoms despite cleaning the grounds and having a new, fully charged, battery. How old is your starter?

 

Probably as old as the car, just got it a couple months ago, haven’t had any electrical or weird ignition noises so far so I’m just working my way up the cost ladder and hoping it isn’t the $200 starter. Can the starter cause a ground issue on the motor like this though?

 

Its as simple as just tracing the ground wire from the battery negative terminal. It goes to a bolt to the frame just below the battery tray, and then goes to the transmission. They need good electrical contact and then use battery terminal protectant on them. This is for a 2009. Make sure the battery terminals and clamps are clean too.
This is where a battery load tester is nice. Do the head lights dim when trying to start it?

 

I have a 2011 Honda CRV one morning it did not crank the dash lights flickered but it seemed that there was no power getting to the starter.

No power? Is the battery dead? Over night drain?

At first I pulled possible blown fuses no luck, I didn’t get out of multimeter checked on a few things and whenever I would turn the key to the on ignition slot the battery would drain from 12 V down to 3 V within a matter of seconds.

12 volts does not mean a good battery. Need to load test. Dropping down to 3 volts could be a dead battery?? Have you tried to jump start?

Upon testing possible ground issues it seems that the engine block has it ground Issue for it is showing 5 V when tested on a multimeter. If anyone has any suggestions let me know and please if you know where the engine grounds are placed that would be a big help also. Thank you guys

Ground issue shows up when testing grounds. For example, from battery negative to chassis or engine block. That is measuring across from one ground to the other and reading a voltage drop.

If battery is good? Disconnect the one pin connector attached to the ECM (behind battery).
The connector part that stays on the ECM bracket goes to the ignition switch/starter cut relay
The connector part that comes off goes to the starter.
Applying 12 volts from a good battery should crank the engine
If it does not then check to see if starter is getting power and ground.
Good luck

 

A quick test of engine ground (and thus, body grounding) is to connect a jumper cable from the engine block directly to the negative terminal of the battery.

 

I have to agree with reply #2 @wmurky
Your fully charged battery should hold more than 13 volts. Have you fully charged it or tried jump starting or boosting?

 

Your fully charged battery should hold more than 13 volts.

"Holding" the charge is relative. The best evaluation of a battery's voltage is after it sits overnight.

I'll repeat this chart again.

Testing voltage immediately after driving (as when, you drive to a parts store and they measure voltage to test it) is a reason why many 'weak' batteries are not diagnosed.

 

I think that more troubleshooting is in order.

EG, even with a new battery, the charging system should provide a LOT more than 3 or 5 VDC.

 

Trouble shooting such as?

Current draw from the starter. (Not voltage...CURRENT)

ELD (Electric Load Detector)

Do you get the same voltage readings if you totally disconnect the present battery? Thinking shorted internal cell..

A bad cell could be damaging the alternator. Had that once, went through 3 junkyard alternators before I realized my NEW battery was killing them.

Unfortunately, I think you will need to 'dig in'....

 

I will test ELD and current draw from starter. Battery is fine until key turned.

 

Battery is fine until key turned.

Sorry, just re-reading your opening post.
To clarify, key turned to 'On' or 'Start" when you see the drop?
Thanks.

 

Anyone know the placement of the led in this year models fuse box

 

So ACCESSORY position it is okay, but when turned to RUN the voltage drops?
Or does the current draw only happen in the next position, START?

 

A recap of what is going on, ...
Battery has serious drain when key is turned to on or crank.
OP suspect ground issue?
Measuring voltages but not describing how measurement is made
Are you measuring voltage across the grounds?
For example from the battery negative post to the chassis ground??

When key is in the on position, need to find why voltage drops so much.
Whether it is caused by the battery being no f... ing good or something else.