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Honda dealership - Rear differential metal threads came out of the differential case with the drain plug

11K views 55 replies 23 participants last post by  sirwired  
#1 · (Edited)
Took my 76k km 2017 CRV EXL to a dealership for regular maintenance. They recommended code 6 which I approved.

They called later saying some metal came out with the screw (rear diff) and that they would have to keep the car for longer until some manager comes back from holidays. They got me a civic as loaner which is not ideal, but it’s all they had.

The car was left there perfect and the incident happened with their mechanic. The car is under extended warranty for 2 more months. Every maintenance was done at Honda dealerships in the correct time.

I don’t want any quick fixes since replacing the part is the proper and safe way to go.

I’m afraid they might send the $3k bill to replace the diff to me (that didn’t happen yet but I have a feeling).

For now I am trying to get a formal written report of what happened and photos.

Anyone experienced something similar?

Should I take responsibility in any way?

If they do charge me, what are the recommendations?
 
#4 ·
If taking out a bolt and the bolt breaks then who pays for the new bolt?
The customer pays for the new bolt.
If the mechanic cracks the casing of the rear diff removing the bolt
Then is it the mechanics fault? Was the mechanic negligent in his work?
Is there proof of negligence? Stuff happens but it is almost always the customer who pays.

Not saying whose fault it is and why.
Just saying what usually ends up happening.
 
#5 ·
Is this really how it works? I certainly wouldn't say it's the mechanic's fault or that he should be the one to have to pay for it, but it's certainly not the customer's fault either.

It seems to be Honda's fault for designing an item that can't withstand normal routine maintenance without being destroyed.

Especially since it's under warranty, I wouldn't think there should be any charge to the customer, but even if it wasn't under warranty I would hope that the dealership would eat most of the cost in a case like this.

No?
 
#6 ·
If the dealership does not make good on this on their dime, given what you reported, then since you still have an extended warranty that should cover it.

So I don't see any scenario where you are responsible financially. More likely the dealer will try to get it processed as a warranty claim under your extended warranty (given the financial cost), and needs Honda to approve it. Otherwise, the dealer will eat the cost.
 
#19 ·
If the dealership does not make good on this on their dime, given what you reported, then since you still have an extended warranty that should cover it.

So I don't see any scenario where you are responsible financially. More likely the dealer will try to get it processed as a warranty claim under your extended warranty (given the financial cost), and needs Honda to approve it. Otherwise, the dealer will eat the cost.
Exactly! Not really an issue, is it?
 
#20 ·
UPDATE: As my most pessimistic forethought they do want to charge me fully for the damage... It's $2.5k for a used part, or $3.5k for a new one.

I have contacted Honda directly and they agree with the dealership saying that the issue could have happened with anyone touching the car, so not their fault.

They also confirmed my extended warranty will not cover it (I expected this one because the documentation on the warranty is very restrictive...)

On the other hand, they have escalated the issue to a mediator who will contact me in the next few days to talk about the incident. There is a chance they will take responsibility for it, but I will have to wait.

I am thinking in the worst-case scenario, if I have no option but to pay for the damage if it will be worth trying to open a case in small claims court. It really seems unreasonable and unfair that I take my car for regular maintenance and end up with a bill that is probably 20% of the value of the CR-V.
 
#21 ·
While reassembling a car this spring I broke a very expensive Rear Screen after having to remove it to install new airbags and a seat cover (2022 Yukon Denali) I barely grabbed the bottom edge to move the screen up to install the last 2 screws and POW it exploded. $2200 screen, and on 6 months backorder. While I was at fault and I claimed fault thankfully GM warranty actually covered it. Even through we are just a certified body shop.

I broke a headlight on another car and had to pay for that out of a months worth of wage garnishment. It was totally my fault that time.

So I have to say it depends on the situation. Since it's never been serviced before at least not at a dealer. I'd say the dealer will step up and fix it under a goodwill clause. It's noones fault, $h*t happens. Unless the tech admits of using the wrong tool or something even then that's on the dealer. I don't see why you would be charged. If the crack is at the threads a Timecert is a guaranted repair that I would be okay with. I doubt you'd get a brand new rear diff but maybe an equal miles replacement with a 1 year extended warranty on the part.

All.repair parts are covered under a 1 year warranty even if that warranty falls outside of general power train warranties.
 
#23 ·
Did you buy the car from this shop? is it this shop that has done all the service history on your car?
i would very hope that Honda pays as it was their idea to do this oil change at this time as you say “they recommend code 6” and not you. They did it not you, their the professionals and have all the expertise etc
 
#28 ·
Did you buy the car from this shop? is it this shop that has done all the service history on your car?
i would very hope that Honda pays as it was their idea to do this oil change at this time as you say “they recommend code 6” and not you. They did it not you, their the professionals and have all the expertise etc
No, I bought it from the 1st owner who did all the previous maintenance on another Honda dealership. Everything was done as recommended and in time though.
I think they recommendation is standard... although I have no responsibility they wouldn't consider it could generate a problem before it happened.
 
#35 ·
A helicoil would be the easy repair. Threads get pulled. It happens. If it were me I'd want a Timecert installed. This type of thing is far more common than you think. Probably some grease monkey shop checked it at one point and used an impact gun to tighten it.

If that was in my shop not even an hours labor for a helicoil repair plus the helicoil. A Timecert takes more time as the the hole must be machined to fit thre Timecert. But again the helicoil is an acceptable form of repair for pulled threads.
 
#36 ·
I think the really technical members are saying that this isn't your fault so you shouldn't have to pay this for out of pocket.

If I were you, I'd definitely take the time to get a free consult from a consumer rights attorney who specializes in lemon law car type issues.

And I would also talk to an independent Honda mechanic who could probably fix it a lot cheaper via the methods that Iggy mentioned.
 
#37 ·
Being reasonably adept at this on vehicles both ground and airborne (and cynical by nature), I would propose another chain of events:
I agree that the threads in the case have stripped and come out on the plug with removal, but I would be suspicious that they came out on a SECOND removal of the plug. Perhaps the plug was overtightened by the "technician" the first time resulting in the damage, and what they have sent you is the photo of the results from it's subsequent removal after the "Oh F**k!!" moment the "technician" experienced (when the plug suddenly started to rotate freely in the clockwise direction as he passed 80lb/ft of torque on the 2ft long 3/4" breaker bar). But then it's just my theory and, of course, I may be completely off the mark....;)
 
#39 ·
All this talk of legal action is off-base. In the end, it will be much cheaper, faster, and easier to find an independent mechanic to fix the threads with a repair kit. (Either an insert/coil, or just tapping out a bigger hole.) It'd be nice if the dealership paid for it (and for the necessary tow), but if not, there's not much that can be done.

There's no certainty that the legal case could be won at all, and it would take months, and have a lot of hassle and expense of its own.

(If it were my vehicle, I'd be pissed, but I'd just get estimates, and if they were much over $150 or so, I'd just have AAA tow it to my house and do it myself; Amazon sells drain plug repair kits for about $40, including a whole set of taps, and a lifetime supply of consumables... this is hardly an uncommon problem to have.)

All this sucks as a problem to have, but the legal system simply isn't practical to fix small problems that can be easily remedied through other means.
 
#40 ·
@sirwired agree. If this again was my shop, The customer would of been notified they had to make a minor repair. Helicoils for drain plugs should be a shop staple. Takes all but 5 mins to fix. Grease up a drill drill the hole bigger. Grease the tap, tap the new threads. Clean the threads and install helicoil. Refill fluid and reinstall new drain plug. Why some dealers and shops make such a hullabaloo over day to day instances is beyond me. Fix it and shove it out the door. But still let the owner know to monitor the plug for weeping. No legal action needed no need to get Honda involved. Just step up and fix it.
 
#42 ·
First off, yes it was very likely over tightened. More than likely instead of using his or her 1/4 inch electric impact driver set on a low setting they used a larger impact driver not set on a low setting.
This is why you never use an impact driver for average bolt twisting work. Use a weak cordless drill to run them down, (if your too lazy to use the hand method) and a normal hand tool to tighten it.
Secondly, my normal gripe, they use junk materials to make things from. Never ever saw that on an old 50's and 60's vehicle, because they didn't go crazy with cast aluminum. Cheap material.
Constant use threads in all aluminum parts need to have hardened threads. So this is a manufacturing defect as well as a technician defect.
Can it be fixed? Yes, but you don't want metal chips entering the case. If it is tapped larger hope the metal chips are flushed out or removed by other means.
 
#43 ·
First off, yes it was very likely over tightened. More than likely instead of using his or her 1/4 inch electric impact driver set on a low setting they used a larger impact driver not set on a low setting.
This is why you never use an impact driver for average bolt twisting work. Use a weak cordless drill to run them down, (if your too lazy to use the hand method) and a normal hand tool to tighten it.
Secondly, my normal gripe, they use junk materials to make things from. Never ever saw that on an old 50's and 60's vehicle, because they didn't go crazy with cast aluminum. Cheap material.
Constant use threads in all aluminum parts need to have hardened threads. So this is a manufacturing defect as well as a technician defect.
Can it be fixed? Yes, but you don't want metal chips entering the case. If it is tapped larger hope the metal chips are flushed out or removed by other means.
I was just going to say that! You have to be careful of, or flush out any metal debris that might fall into the casing if going the "tap out the hole" route. Good call, chidog!
 
#45 ·
So if that's the case they should cover it. It's a 20 min repair. Just make sure they use plenty of grease on the drill bit and tap to catch the shavings and still waste a quart of fluid to make sure nothing fell inside to flush it out. This happens more than people realize and shops just do the repair and not drag it out like this dealer is.
 
#47 ·
For now the dealership doesn't consider repairing a possibility. I am not mechanically savvy... They say the part needs replacement. It's a difficult situation because they have all the knowledge of what happened, and they are actually making a profit out of the whole thing... it's very unfair but they don't seem to care about this case in particular. It's just another client car for them...
 
#48 ·
The reason they don't want to repair is they can't guarantee it for any sort of warranty. They don't want to have the tech do it wrong and it leaks. That's the problem with dealers today. No more problem solvers just profit generators. This would of been an in and out job at a local mechanic. Like I said it's a daily occurrence. Watch videos of shops putting new threads in oil pans without draining oil. Hook a vacuum to the fill hole suck pull plug do the repair and drop in a new plug. I've done it when the dealership forgot to put on a new crush washer (I'd supply) when installed a OE Approved magnetic drain plug. I'd always tape the new crush washer to the key fob for them. And I'd always have a leak. I finally gave up and started doing everything myself.

Sorry they are putting you thru this. Have you reached out to Corp again saying this is still ongoing? Hopefully they have you in a service loaner.