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How long will my CRV last?

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395K views 125 replies 79 participants last post by  Lochinvar  
#1 ·
Serious question! I have a 2000 CRV, with 120k miles and has been pretty well maintained. I never see them with high milage - when do they generally call it quits? I've owned a few Mazda Protege-type cars, and they all seem to make it to 200k without any major problems. I realize this is a very subjective question, and you can keep anything running as long as you replace parts, but I'm more interested in a general sense, how long does the transmission hold up, motor, etc? I'm making a car decision at the moment, and don't know if it's worth keeping at the moment or not. I'm not able to buy a newer car at the moment, but I don't want to hold onto the CRV if it's going to die in the next year or two.
 
#6 ·
My '98 has 230, 000 KM on it. It needed work on the front end, I just did the differential fluid, and the timing belt is coming up. The tranny does this weird laggy thing, so I probably need to get that looked at, too. A lot of work for a used car, but I expect it to last a couple more years as a second vehicle with little depreciation. I expect to get it to 300, 000 KM ;)
 
#7 ·
you will get way more then 300 k miles but thats if you keep everything up to date and on schedule and you need too get the tranny noise looked at if anything get it looked at at the dealer pay dor the diag time and fix it your self but good luck man

mine is just a 98 awd ex mt and i have only 142,5xx miles
 
#8 ·
Honda's will last as long as you take care of them, barring an accident which crunches your car. My sister in law had an 1998 Accord with 378,000 Miles and it was running great up until the day a truck rear ended her and the insurance wouldn't pay to fix it.

I plan on keeping mine will past the 200K mile range.
 
#9 ·
You're Cr-v will probably run till the end of next week. Plan all your camping and stuff before then. Hondas have a reputation for being the least reliable car ever. The most reliable car ever was the 1st gen Ford Pinto and the last generation Ford Tempo. Honda is nowhere near their build quality, trade it in now.



 
#12 ·
My 97 CRV just rolled over 300,000. Original engine and transmission. That said, it HAS been faithfully serviced at Honda recommended maintenance intervals. I'm not talking just oil changes. I mean fluid changes, timing belts, valve adjustments, and so on. Still runs like a top and I put 20K + on per year. A good portion of that mileage is off road and/or in snow and ice in winter. I'm a contract meter reader. Not easy miles!
 
#35 ·
Wow!



>300K is Phenominal! I have an M3. Then, in Feb of this year, I was tired of all the stress from manual transmission on a daily drive 27 miles each way to work, up and down, past downtown los angeles, in the notorious southern california traffic.

I wanted a reliable car with adequate utility. I landed a 1998 CRV with 149K miles. My goal is to double the mileage on "Tilly". Like I told my wife, getting this car actually added years back to my life! So far, only change timing belt, normal oil changes, og transmission and motor, and up next are the rear trailing arm bushings.

And the kicker? My insurance actually went DOWN, after adding Tilly to our garage lineup! :)

i love my crv!
 
#13 ·
Accordingly to the surveys in Consumers Reports... it should last quite a while without any major issues. Toyotas and Hondas seems to perform the best in this regard.

Regualr maintenance is key however. I sometimes wonder if the reliability of Jpanesse vehciel is skewed somewhat by hte type of owners that purchase them. The type of person that buys a Hodna or Toyota si perhaps more liekly ot perform regular maintenance than hte average owner of a Ford or GM product. However, if that is true, that Ford owners have suddenly started doing a better job to taking care of their vehciles, because they are starting to match or even beat Toyota and Honda in the results fo the CR surveys.
 
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#14 ·
I guess the question for me is, "Does a Honda age better than a Toyota?" My Toyota Corolla was 18 years old when I felt it was time to trade it in (owed $1,200 in repairs on it when I had the AC fail and the motor mounts start to fail). It only had 152,000 miles on it, a disappointment. I think that the killing factor was not mileage, but age in the years of winter and boiling summer. Nothing human-made will last forever, and you eventually have to replace everything, maybe except the glass if you're lucky. The question is, "Can I reasonably expect a CR-V to last 40 years if I only drive it 5,000 miles a year, or will it start falling apart quickly due to atmospheric conditions and weather exposure at a certain point in time no matter whether I drive it 1,000 miles a year or 200,000 miles a year?"

I have averaged about 5,000 miles a year for the last 8 years I had the Toyota. I had a lot of things done to the car even though I was always on top of maintenance, like a differential replaced, engine block broke, instrument panel replaced (!), entire steering system overhauled, distributor nodal replaced, radiator replaced, water pump replaced, all within the last 7 years. My door handles on the left side were breaking on me, headliner starting to separate, plastic parts in the interior cracking on me, and the headlights were getting so dim that on the trip up to Columbus, I had to use the high beams to see, and I never received a high-beam flash back in the opposite direction to dim mine! I never realized how bad the headlights were getting, having stayed in Houston under very good street lights for a long time. It just reached the end of its service life. If I'm going to have a Honda, I want it for life. The CR-V is growing on me very quickly. I didn't think it would because of my preference for the Element, but I see its advantages in how it drives and having a bit more ground clearance than the Element.

The mileage per year may not change much, since I'm about to receive a 1977 International Harvester Scout II when it comes out of restoration. What am I going to do with 10,000 miles of travel? I may stretch it out to 15,000 miles total for next year when I go back to see my aunt and family in OH. The drive out to OH recently would bump the miles to about 8,000 miles for 2010. It's NICE to get out of Houston for a change!

Stephanie
 
#15 ·
The mileage per year may not change much, since I'm about to receive a 1977 International Harvester Scout II when it comes out of restoration. What am I going to do with 10,000 miles of travel? I may stretch it out to 15,000 miles total for next year when I go back to see my aunt and family in OH. The drive out to OH recently would bump the miles to about 8,000 miles for 2010. It's NICE to get out of Houston for a change!

Stephanie
My Bro' had an IH Scout of that vintage for many years (it finally rusted away)



As stated, longetivity is all in the maintenance. Some folks complain about the need for valve adjustments or diff fluid changes. But it's only routine stuff.


Even older cars (like the Scout) will benefit from periodic fluid replacements. There are always Time requirements as well as Mileage intervals.


Post up a pic of the Scout when you get it. :cool:
 
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#16 ·
In 2008 i tried to buy a 1995 Accord wagon with 389,000 miles on it and very little rust.

I had one customer that worked as a courier that had around 1,000,000 km's on his 89 Civic. His health forced him to before the car quit. I lost count but i think he did have the engine rebuilt 3 or 4 times. Almost 700,000 miles on the original block.


Bottom line is that it will last as long as you want it to as long as you take car of it.
 
#18 ·
They will last forever



Follow the maintenance codes and only have it serviced at a Honda Dealer and drive the speed limits and in 20 years and/or 300,000 miles it will be time to trade it in on a new one. I just sold a 1987 Ford with 200,000 miles that still had the original engine and transmission.
 
#19 ·
Lots of CR-Vs in the family (2 are mine) here with all sorts of mileage:

1999 LX - 333,000+ miles, runs just fine
1999 EX - 168,000 miles, again, just fine
1999 LX - 90,000 miles, obviously fine
2001 LX- 87,000 miles, my wife's car. AC compressor failed/replaced, timing belt/water pump done at 80k, valve adjustment done when we got it at 72k. Been great, no issues besides the AC compressor which got changed out with a $160 internet special that works fine.
2002 EX- 85,000 miles, my car. "Black Death" AC failure fixed for $530 via a complete ebay AC kit. No other issues. Love it as my daily driver.
2007 EX - 24,000 miles. Rear diff fluid done at 15k, no other issues to report. One of the smoothest driving cars I have ever driven in.

Basically, as long as you maintain them well and don't beat the crap out of them they'll be fine. Biggest issues I've ran into are the damn AC systems which is one thing Honda can't seem to make that lasts more than 80k before torpedoeing. Oh well at least those are easy enough to change/get at with the bumper off.
 
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#21 ·
it will last

Congrats to other members with their awesome mileage!

Mine is around 175K miles. My coworker's '98 is around 210k miles.

I'm still on the original engine and original transmission (auto).

I'm an amazingly excellent driver (read: terrible = I beat my car to hell). I constantly drive above 70mph and bring her close to redline a few times a week.

Even with my treatment, she performs well and still keeps on kicking!

Best of luck to you!
 
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#22 ·
Heh, I drive 80+ on the highway because I have to in NJ or I'll get run off the road lol. I take both the 01 LX and 02 EX autos up to 6k regularly, nothing wrong with that at all. I actually like when the variable timing comes on with the EX although it is nowhere near making it fast lol, just a big difference for that particular car.

As long as you do regular and required maintenance to these cars they definitely will last to 200k just fine, probably longer. Obviously there are always going to be exceptions though. Lots of people get rid of their 02-04s because of the "Black Death" AC issue which did happen to me but I am part of a family of mechanics so it wasn't such a big deal for me.
 
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#23 ·
I have a 2004 EX with 89,500 mi on it. I haven't had to do a thing besides brakes & tires. I bought it 5 years ago with only 17k on it. I did the rear differential change myself, after dealer wanted $195 to do it. I'm hoping for another 10 years out of it, and I will be thrilled! Best vehicle I've ever owned!
 
#24 ·
2000 crv

I just purchased a 10-year-old CRV this week with 192,000 miles. So far, so good. Ever since the cash for clunkers program, buying a used car at a reasonable price is difficult and time consuming . I was happy to find a 10 year old Honda under 3,000 dollars. I decided to purchase a used Honda based on many testimonials regarding long living Honda engines.

My advice is to change your oil and filters often, turn off your air-conditioner, heaters, cruise control, etc everytime you turn your car off so that your small motors inside don't get the power surges everytime you start your car. This will increase the life of the tiny motors and keep your car out of the expensive repair category.

New used Honda Owner.
 
#25 ·
The AC compressors don't come on right away when you start the car. Engine starts, then the compressor comes on about 5 seconds later so no surge if you leave the AC on. You can hear it do this if you listen for it when you start the car. Heat has nothing to do with anything as far as putting any extra stress on a motor and neither does the cruise box being on or not. MAYBE a little extra pull from the alternator but nothing major enough to hurt anything.

Agree about making sure to change the oil at regular intervals but as long as you are using a good filter and a good synthetic you can go 5k between changes and not worry. Valve adjustments are probably the most important thing in G1s. Father in Law just had another head failure at work because a guy hadn't adjusted his valves in the entire 160k he'd owned his G1 and the service writers are having to deal with that guy now lol.
 
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#27 ·
Haha no. With that said, there are PLENTY of Hondas pushing past 20 years old still driven daily. I sold a 1986 Accord back in 2006 at its 20 year mark and that thing still ran like a top, just needed the carburator rebuilt every freaking 6 months lol. And there was the rust starting to eat away the back wheel wells and trunk area.
 
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#28 ·
Two 01's. #1, recently sold to co-worker's college kid, is going strong at 190K. Work done, besides obvious maintenance stuff like oil, fluids, valve adjustments, was tie rod ends and sway bar links. We have bumpy roads here in Michigan. Still had original rear brake shoes, front pads redone at about 125K. Doesn't burn oil, trans shifts just fine. Oh, an "ignitor" (coil???) needed replacement once. Slow failure with hard starting. No big deal.

#2, purchased used from brother, is better at 140K. No suspension work (streets in his town are much smoother) needed yet All that's been done is Honda-suggested routine maintenance of fluids, valves (at 30K intervals, not 105K like Honda tells us) and brakes before I bought it. Engine and trans running just fine.

BTW, 03 Pilot at 170K is running just fine, too. Had to replace the hood latch of all things, but nothing else. Just put its 3rd set of tires on it, too, which is pretty remarkable as the Pilot is heavier than the CRV.

Maintenance is the key. For any brand of car.
 
#29 ·
My CRV is old too!

I have a 1998 with 194+k on it. I have changed the timing belt and the fluids regularly and the only "real" problems I have had are the clock dying, and the wheels making a knocking sound. I found out that there is a bad solder in the clocks and that most of them will die. If I could figure out how to pull the clock, I would fix it. The knocking in the wheels comes from the sway bar link. I took it to the DEALER and it cost $200 to fix, so it is probably pretty easy to do, if you have the tools.
 
#31 ·
I have a 1998 with 194+k on it. I have changed the timing belt and the fluids regularly and the only "real" problems I have had are the clock dying, and the wheels making a knocking sound. I found out that there is a bad solder in the clocks and that most of them will die. If I could figure out how to pull the clock, I would fix it. The knocking in the wheels comes from the sway bar link. I took it to the DEALER and it cost $200 to fix, so it is probably pretty easy to do, if you have the tools.
The clock is easy to get apart. There are already several threads about it. Just get a long thing flat something to slide in the A/C vent right under the clock. I used a 6" taping knife and it popped right out. Once the center A/C vent housing is out, there will be 2 screws on the backside holding the clock to it. The the clock just snaps apart.
 
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