Welcome to the forum! Keep us posted on how this goes.

 

Thank you kloker, will do. Unless someone on here pops up with the answer, I need to decide whether I should take this to a Honda specialist or a more general, trusted mechanic (former Toyota master tech) that I have used in the past for an Infiniti.

 

Runs the same as the day I bought it from them which is fairly rough but my old mechanic told me that is normal for my engine.

That's an odd statement for a mechanic to make--K-series engines, when properly cared for, should run smoothly.

 

Interesting, he said something to the effect of the engine not having an internal balancing rod or balancer. I usually question just about everything and do a lot of research but I didn’t question the mechanic on that statement because he came highly recommended and could have easily told me there was a problem and taken my money to chase issues so I just took him at his word. Also, I had a pre-purchase inspection done at another shop who didn’t say anything about how it was running.

 

I haven't seen or heard of that before on any vehicles but it sounds like you are really gunked up and oil is not draining back. as it should. Can you see inside the valve cover, what does it look like? Maybe pull valve cover? When was the last oil change? I would change it anyway with correct weight oil and a new factory filter (maybe?). Consider doing a motor flush with BG EPR. It was recommended to me from a top level VW tech. They use it on the VW's with oil burning issues and it helps a lot.

The "maybe" for the factory filter is with thought of the BG EPR motor flush. I would probably get cheap Walmart or similar oil and a cheaper filter. Drain what you have, change filter (maybe cut it open to see what's in it). Put in new oil and filter and then do the motor flush per directions. Basically you're wasting that oil and filter with the flush.

I would probably do a couple quick, low mileage (1k) changes with cheaper oil and filter to get junk cleaned if that is the problem. I might grab an extra PCV to at least alternate with changes. You can spray it clean if not to fouled up with some brake cleaner or some regular ATF and acetone. As long as the ball rattles you should be ok.

If I recall from many of the posts at BITOG, Pennzoil regular yellow bottle is one of the better cleaning oils. You could also do some of the old methods of adding Marvel Mystery Oil to in place of whatever qty. BITOG had many threads over the years with members using Lube Control LC20 to help clean.

If it that gunked up that got the PCV, unfortunately the screens for the vtec will probably also have issues and may cause a limp home condition, maybe CEL. Too old higher viscosity 5w-30 in my '04 did that but the screens were clean.

 

I haven't seen or heard of that before on any vehicles but it sounds like you are really gunked up and oil is not draining back. as it should. Can you see inside the valve cover, what does it look like? Maybe pull valve cover? When was the last oil change? I would change it anyway with correct weight oil and a new factory filter (maybe?). Consider doing a motor flush with BG EPR. It was recommended to me from a top level VW tech. They use it on the VW's with oil burning issues and it helps a lot.

The "maybe" for the factory filter is with thought of the BG EPR motor flush. I would probably get cheap Walmart or similar oil and a cheaper filter. Drain what you have, change filter (maybe cut it open to see what's in it). Put in new oil and filter and then do the motor flush per directions. Basically you're wasting that oil and filter with the flush.

I would probably do a couple quick, low mileage (1k) changes with cheaper oil and filter to get junk cleaned if that is the problem. I might grab an extra PCV to at least alternate with changes. You can spray it clean if not to fouled up with some brake cleaner or some regular ATF and acetone. As long as the ball rattles you should be ok.

If I recall from many of the posts at BITOG, Pennzoil regular yellow bottle is one of the better cleaning oils. You could also do some of the old methods of adding Marvel Mystery Oil to in place of whatever qty. BITOG had many threads over the years with members using Lube Control LC20 to help clean.

If it that gunked up that got the PCV, unfortunately the screens for the vtec will probably also have issues and may cause a limp home condition, maybe CEL. Too old higher viscosity 5w-30 in my '04 did that but the screens were clean.

Thank you sequoiasoon,
Preface to your answers: I actually discovered this issue due to a dead battery. Had the battery tested and it was "OK" but was struggling to start since I posted this. I was just about to test the alternator yesterday (I don't drive much due to WFH) when it went totally dead. So, I am going to jump it today and take to a trusted shop who is known for rebuilding starters and alternators (armature) and have them take a look at the issue.

As for the oil, I agree that it sounds like it is gunked up and not draining somewhere. I have not looked inside. Last oil changed was January 2020 but I have only driven it 3k miles and the car is telling me I am still 60% and the oil looks decent. In support of the gunk theory, the car sat with very minimal use and no oil change for about 15 months before I bought it and there is no telling how long it may have gone without an oil change while my SIL had it. After taking it for pre-purchase inspection and tags/title, I took it in for an oil change at a quick lube before hitting the road back home to my state. Thank you for the tips on the motor flush and Pennzoil yellow. I really like the idea of a motor flush and will ask the mechanic about that today 11/16/20.

I will have to look into the vtec screens. It's possible that its gunked up in every possible place. I will report back after the mechanic today. Thanks!

 

Also make sure the correct amount of oil is in there when you change it. Make sure vehicle is level when you drain it, maybe tilted slightly toward drain. Let it drain long enough. I have read on other threads about too much oil causing foaming which might be what you have? Make sure flat/level when you check it. My driveway and road are pitched so I usually check mine after it sits a couple minutes when I buy gas. I know where that is when in my driveway so at least I can check in between.

 

I changed the oil myself in January 2020 and believe the level is good as I can wipe down the dip stick and re-check and it shows perfectly in-between the high and low marks.

 

As for the hard starts with good battery. Check all the connections and look for corrosion in the cables. Well documented on here that the starter is probably on the way out. Get a new one from Rock Auto. Don't go with the rebuilt ones from your local autoparts. The Honda one is crazy dollars even a rebuilt one. I did that in my '04 and my '08 which isn't that hard to replace (once you take off the intake manifold). How old is the battery and what was used to test it? The newer capacitance testers work well BUT it should really sit overnight, not jump it and drive to shop as it just got a fresh charge then and might show good. Once the normal batteries get discharged a couple times they really don't last long.

If it is good and battery dies again consider doing a Parasitic draw test to see what is draining. One of the bluetooth modules is a known issue and the AC relay. AC relay stays engaged and drains battery even with vehicle off. I think $10-15 for the new relay from Honda, easy replacement.

If you do the flush I would get the BG EPR. If VW dealers with known oil burning gunked up ring issues use it, I will go with that not the auto parts store versions. BG does make good stuff.

 

I did attempt to check the connections and cleaned some corrosion from the terminals but I may have missed something else. I should have looked more in here for the starting issue because I came up with the alternator thought based on a lot of general youtube videos instead of specific Honda CRV info. Luckily the shop I just dropped it off at specializes in this kind of issue and has been rebuilding starters, alternators etc since 1931 (actually rebuilt my Jeep's starter almost 20 years ago and they had 2 Honda alternators sitting on the desk waiting to be picked up).

The first time it wouldn't start and I got a jump, I took it immediately to AutoZone and they tested the battery with whatever tool they have so that was not ideal based on what you said. Said it was not 100% but should have plenty of power to operate as normal. However, my own test at home after it had been sitting and no jump showed it at 14.2 DCV which I believe is acceptable. I don't know when they battery was purchased though. The sticker is hidden underneath and I forgot to go back and check for that.

I thought about a parasitic draw test but my CRV is so plain and stock that I just didn't think it could be an issue (no Bluetooth or anything aftermarket) but I did not know about the AC relay issue. I think I left too many stones unturned before going to a mechanic as I love to DIY but with 2 young kids and working a lot of hours, I was worried I wouldn't be able to figure it out fast enough.

 

The 14.2 VDC I hope was when it was running? I'm with you on the hours but my kids are older in high school/college

The '08 that my daughter now drives was a "gift" from my sister with the "if you can fix it, you can have it" clause. They were tired of paying insurance on something that wasn't being used often and needed a jump every time. They brought it to Honda multiple times with same complaints. They went through 4 batteries in 2 years as it kept dying. Even with new Honda battery it was hard starting. They had replaced the positive and negative cables due to corrosion and got used ones from a Junkyard, they seem OK with no resistance. They actually replaced and put in a used starter, lord knows why once you're that far. The positive battery clamp was not tight as it was stretched. The ground points were not cleaned up. They never changed the AC relay even though I told them multiple times. They said AC works fine, it's not the relay.

So we jumped it, drove it 1.5 hours home and parked it. Next day I went to check battery with capacitance tester and found the loose clamp. Auto parts stores carry a post shim for a couple $$. I did that and charged battery with a recovery charge from my CTEK charger. I let it sit overnight and next day battery tested bad as it was killed too many times. They had 5 month old receipt from Honda with 100 month warranty. Honda tested it bad and gave me counter exchange. I put it in, car cranked slow. I did the parasitic draw test and AC relay caused heavy drain. I bought the new one from Honda and replaced, drain gone. I ordered the delco remy starter from Rock Auto and replaced it as well some other easy access parts (radiator hoses, coolant lines) that were easy access while the manifold was out.

That was 3 months ago, battery is perfect, car starts and runs great, daughter is happy. I also got to do front rotors/calipers/pads and got her new snows.

 

The 14.2 VDC I hope was when it was running? I'm with you on the hours but my kids are older in high school/college

The '08 that my daughter now drives was a "gift" from my sister with the "if you can fix it, you can have it" clause. They were tired of paying insurance on something that wasn't being used often and needed a jump every time. They brought it to Honda multiple times with same complaints. They went through 4 batteries in 2 years as it kept dying. Even with new Honda battery it was hard starting. They had replaced the positive and negative cables due to corrosion and got used ones from a Junkyard, they seem OK with no resistance. They actually replaced and put in a used starter, lord knows why once you're that far. The positive battery clamp was not tight as it was stretched. The ground points were not cleaned up. They never changed the AC relay even though I told them multiple times. They said AC works fine, it's not the relay.

So we jumped it, drove it 1.5 hours home and parked it. Next day I went to check battery with capacitance tester and found the loose clamp. Auto parts stores carry a post shim for a couple $$. I did that and charged battery with a recovery charge from my CTEK charger. I let it sit overnight and next day battery tested bad as it was killed too many times. They had 5 month old receipt from Honda with 100 month warranty. Honda tested it bad and gave me counter exchange. I put it in, car cranked slow. I did the parasitic draw test and AC relay caused heavy drain. I bought the new one from Honda and replaced, drain gone. I ordered the delco remy starter from Rock Auto and replaced it as well some other easy access parts (radiator hoses, coolant lines) that were easy access while the manifold was out.

That was 3 months ago, battery is perfect, car starts and runs great, daughter is happy. I also got to do front rotors/calipers/pads and got her new snows.

Well, I Just received word back from the mechanic. Sounds like the jumping of battery right before autozone testing was a problem because the mechanic said the battery won’t hold a charge, is 5 years old and the alternator and starter are fine. So that issue should be resolved.
As for the oil, they said they don’t see anything wrong and stated that it is normal for oil to push up to the top of the dipstick while running and you just have to make sure to check the level after it’s been sitting. So I’m guessing the fact that the dipstick is always dripping with oil is due to the oil thickening/gunk or maybe even the oil that I used (Castrol GTX Magnatec) clings more.
Any other thoughts on the oil or just flush and change?
Thanks

 

It almost sounds to me like maybe someone put a heavy weight oil in there. I would immediately change the oil and use 05-20, which is what it is supposed to be, with a new filter. Then keep an eye on it and see what results. If I don't say what I'm thinking, maybe it won't happen.

 

Yeah please see my other reply for my detail but mechanic says nothing wrong on the oil front. I know I used the correct weight via Castrol GTX Magnatec 5W-20 and correct volume but I will definitely be changing the oil and filter soon. Thank you

 

OK I hope the battery solves your starting issues. Just remember if it starts slower or harder, the starter is common at higher mileage.

For the oil your post had "ISSUE: oil all the up the dipstick and a little bit leaking out of the oil filler cap" which to me sounded like the whole valve cover filling up. Normal to get drops splashing out if you open valve cap when running. I've never seen all the way up the dipstick but could see it IF the PCV is bad and you are getting too much pressure inside. It would try to force out any opening OR make it's own at other seals/gaskets. If the O-rings on dipstick are dried out/cracked that would be an opening as well as past the rings.

Check the hose that goes from the PCV to manifold. Mine was almost collapsed so basically you have no opening to get the pressure back to intake

 

OK I hope the battery solves your starting issues. Just remember if it starts slower or harder, the starter is common at higher mileage.

For the oil your post had "ISSUE: oil all the up the dipstick and a little bit leaking out of the oil filler cap" which to me sounded like the whole valve cover filling up. Normal to get drops splashing out if you open valve cap when running. I've never seen all the way up the dipstick but could see it IF the PCV is bad and you are getting too much pressure inside. It would try to force out any opening OR make it's own at other seals/gaskets. If the O-rings on dipstick are dried out/cracked that would be an opening as well as past the rings.

Check the hose that goes from the PCV to manifold. Mine was almost collapsed so basically you have no opening to get the pressure back to intake

I hope so as well but I will be checking for parasitic draw as well in case that AC relay is an issue. As for the issue, I may not have described that very well but the dipstick is dripping oil if you drive it, stop and immediately check the oil. As for the oil filler cap, it looked like a light residue of oil around the edges of the cap but not like a little pool of oil. I should see if I can get some good pictures. However, even after a new PCV and making sure the hose was clear and good, the oil is still up the dipstick to the top. My general research indicated that PCV and rings are most typical cause of the high crankcase pressure so I hope it is not the rings although the shop that just looked at it doesn't think anything is wrong and I have never been around a similar vintage CRV to compare.

 

Dripping off the stick could be normal. I never check my oil unless the car has sat for a while

 

Maybe I had just been lucky and happened to check my oil after sitting in the past because I’ve never really considered the timing of the check.

 

JJ,
Check that PCV hose for any signs of collapsing or cracked causing a slight vacuum leak. Mine was squished down at the far manifold end not by the PCV itself.

 

Well here are a couple pics of the dipstick after it had been sitting for approx 17 hours. Hard to get the right light but you can see oil spots on the way up and oil at the very top. It’s much more soaked closer to when it’s been run. I also took a couple videos that I think would be really helpful but I can’t upload videos here only pictures. P.S. I did a parasitic draw test and there is no issue there.

DEF8C819-CACB-4FAE-A85B-6E0EE3456B80.jpeg

• jjsalmon
• Nov 18, 2020

3C1A5E7D-9DD5-4415-83F3-9CCEEBF2FBE1.jpeg

• jjsalmon
• Nov 18, 2020

 

My opinion.. the oil up on the dipstick is simply oil splash that happens as the engine runs. And it can linger for a long time. Nothing abnormal.. at least not in these photos. That said, I guess there could be some issue up inside the engine that may be presenting more lingering oil than normal. To answer that though.. you need to run a comparison test I think..... compare your dipstick to another owners dipstick.. making sure you are both comparing the same model year and engine, and same oil viscosity, and exactly the same procedure to check the oil on the dipstick.

Just follow Hondas guidance on checking the oil. As in.. when to check, and to be sure and clean the dipstick completely with a clean cloth first, etc. etc.

Good luck resolving your concerns.

 

Whenever I check my oil, I always pull the dipstick and wipe it down first, then re-insert and seat properly, then pull it and see what it reads. If it looks like that picture, then one of two things is happening. Either you have too much oil in the engine, or something is blocking an oil passage somewhere, causing a buildup in the pan. Either condition will cause a rough-running engine. This makes me wonder if you could have a clogged or defective oil filter. I hate these head-scratchers!