Don't have any experience with your model CR-V but it sounds like they've wired the Astro Start to the 'backup fuse' and in the process re-routed all the things that go 'dead' when you remove it, through it too.
You're going to have to find a way to isolate all the systems that are involved in order to figure out which one is causing the draw.

 

Try this find the feed for the module for the Astro Start & disconnect it. See if the parasitic draw goes away. Let us know.

 

This would be my guess. Once it is disconnected, make sure to put the backup fuse back in, and this will narrow it down to the car starter.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I should have mentioned the dealer wired the remote starter to an empty fuse in the fuse box, labeled it and I already tested.

I googled this same issue and found several other people experiencing this problem on Civics, CRVs, Ridgelines and Odysseys and only one person who traced a rear door handle switch to a Ridgeline. All the other people that asked for help disappeared without any answers. The info I saw was the back up fuse controls a lot. May need to find an expert, but hoped someone may have seen this issue in a CRV to give a starting point. It's odd.

 

View attachment 75161

Hi, Did you ever solved this problem. I have a 2007 model CRV and have a similar problem. Battery draws parasitically at 0.5A. Upon drawing the fuses out from the hood, I figured out that if we take a 10A fuse out that controls the Navigation/Radio and Alarm then the draw goes immediately down to 0.02A. Upon further checking I have removed the Navigation console out from the car but it did not help. I have also removed the fuse number 25 under the dashboard that controls the alarm system but it did not help either. The car draws current continuously and emplties the battery in 1 day. Does this fuse control other things as well? which I should check.
Picture is attached.
Regards, Mohsin

 

I have just detected the same problem after 3 weeks re-charging batterries... I have removed the backup fuse after detecting a permanent draw of 182ma! Removing for a couple of days to prove my case is fine, but wife is not happy with manual door locking and no sterio.

Before Honda charge me £££ for changing every component on the car - did anyone have a solution?

 

Picture attached that shows the fuse box and which fuse is causing trouble

 

Is there any Aftermarket devices installed in the vehicle?

 

Is the Alarm OEM in the vehicle?

 

I had an aftermarket DVD player put in another vehicle I had previously owned that was causing my parasitic draw. If I parked for any length of time I would have to disconnect the battery. Look at any and all aftermarket devices you have had added to the vehicle.

 

The alarm is OEM and there is no after market device installed to my knowledge. A non Honda workshop has tried to figure out the problem with but with no luck. They changed the cables between the fuse box and the battery.

 

Here is a pretty good article that may be of some help to you.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a5859/how-to-stop-car-battery-drains/

Google "alternator diode problems" too to see if that helps you any.

Jump to 6:36 in the video below for an explanation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYM3P4vyBtw

Kinda hard to diagnose electrical problems over a forum. Above would be my suggestions on things to look at.

 

This sounds a lot like an alternator diode problem I once had.

 

This is definitely not an alternator problem otherwise removing the fuse that controls Nav+Alarm would not have shown any improvement in the current draw. Is there anything else connected to that circuit? or is there anything else connected between the fuse box and nav console/alarm. Where can I find the circuit diagrams for CRVs.

 

Mohsin,
I have a UK spec 2007 CRV with the same symptoms as you described in your jan 17 post. It is drawing 550 mA with ignition off. When fuse 16 is disconnected,which is in same position and same rating as yours, it drops to 20mA. It is described as Back Up circuit. Did you find out what was causing it. We may have the exact same fault!
Regards,
Gramacho

 

Exact same problem here - Did you ever find a fix?

 

Hi everyone! Been searching forums for a fix to this exact problem on a '07 crv, please tell me someone has found the solution!!!!

Battery draining when left for more than a few days, parasitic draw located to back up fuse no. 16, where to go from there????

 

Usually this can be traced down to an aftermarket security system or Honda's Handsfreelink module. Honda's HFL module is usually a PITA to get to. It's located below the audio unit. It can be simply unplugged. If the drain goes away after unplugging it you can decide if you just want to leave it or replace it.

 

Amazing thank you, I don't have an aftermarket alarm as far as I'm aware, will have a look for the HFL already have the aftermarket audio unit out as I thought it was that!

 

Is this the right cable to unplug? All info I could find pointed to this, but it hasn’t reduced the draw after replacing back up fuse

 

Danborg, thats not it, I just made the same error. Its the one to the right in your photo, with a white connector. That leads to the HFT module which, on my 2007 CRV just died. Let me know how you get on

 

Lost power to A/C so must have been that I disconnected

 

 

That’s not very helpful!

 

This is the best method for isolating a parasitic draw. No need to disconnect anything.... just measure across each fuse.. looking for any sign of a small voltage drop across the fuse (which indicates current being drained).

 

It's located here.

And it looks like this.

 

It's located here.

And it looks like this.

Thank you! I will take a look hopefully in same place in a 07 model!

 

Look different in mine, do you know if it’s either of these? Cheers

 

Looks likes the one on the right. I'm going by the mounting tabs on the module.

 

Thanks! Only just got around to trying this out, so with out back up fuse the meter reads 0.02amps with fuse 0.53amps and then when I disconnect the Bluetooth module it reads 0.26amps, which is amazing and has halved the parasitic draw but is this amount still going to cause battery drain?

Thanks to whoever lead me to this answer it has cost me countless batteries, a new alternator, a year or so without central locking for fear of killing the battery, it’s been a saga to say the least!

 

0.26 amps is still very high, should be around 0.02 amps. Is the 0.26 amps occuring after the vehicle has set for awhile to allow all the cpu's to go into sleep mode?