Here you go:

 

Thanks Tkcr, greatly appreciate it.

 

Called Honda dealer in Niagara Falls they want $435 plus tax for the power window regulator and motor. Ordered from Napa auto parts for $165 plus tax. These dealers are insane.

 

Probably could have still found one cheaper on-line, I believe when I bought mine it was around $45. And that dealer price, that probably wasn't including labor.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/_Car-Tr...essories&_m2home=1&Make=Honda&Model=CR%2DV&_myi=1997-2001&_rkw=window+regulator

 

$435.00 canadian is Honda MSRP for these two items parts only.


This is the price that Honda gives us to work with......

 

A MSRP should never the actual selling price. The guy at Napa told me it's these insane dealer prices that keep places like Napa open. Ya think that the dealers would want to compete. I know they have a high overhead but when you add the tax that's almost $500, then add an extra $150 to install it. I pitty the fool that's going to pay that.

 

tckr, your right about finding one online, problem is that I need it yesterday. Once you factor in shipping and brokerage fees and taxes the final total will be close. I once ordered a guitar pedal for about $60 US with $20 shipping through UPS. The wanted another $68 for brokerage fees and taxes. It cost me more to get it here than it actually cost.

 

OK, so i have a new power window motor and regulator. I connect it up and hit the switch and still nothing. Do you think it's the power window master switch. Is there a relay in the fuse box. I checked the fuse and it's OK. Is there a way i can check the power window motor with leads straight off the batery. I think I loosing it.

 

what did you check before diagnosing you had a bad motor? did you try putting 12V direct to the old motor? try that now that you have it out. If it works, check to see if you have broken wires in the boot between the door and the body.

 

I want to put try putting 12V direct to the old motor. There are four leads coming off the old motor, which ones do I use. Thanks, Joe.

 

Looking at the terminal side of the window motor connector with the little locking notch at the top, the wires from L to R should be 1 (RED/YEL), 2 (RED/BLU), 3 (BLU), 4 (BLK).

Apply GND to 1 (RED/YEL) and +12V to 2 (RED/BLU) for UP and +12V to 1 (RED/YEL) and GND to 2 (RED/BLU) for DOWN. Connectors 3 (BLU) and 4 (BLK) are for the pulser that operates the AUTO function (the resistance across these two should change as the window motor moves).

Let us know what you find.

 

I hooked up the motor straight to the battery and the window went up just fine so it's not the motor/regulator. The volt meter measures power from the red/blue wire and the red/yellow wire at the motor and at the switch. Nothing from the blue wire. All four wires were checked for continuity.

 

Good -- if you're seeing voltage at the switch harness then there's no open in either of those wires. The only thing left to do would be to test the driver's side window ground wire in the switch harness. I don't have the manual at my disposal right now but would be happy to post the wiring information early this evening. It would appear, though, that you're headed for a master switch replacement.

On a related note, I had to replace the master window switch on a 2002 Civic sedan a month ago. The previous repair facility had diagnosed the problem as 3 bad window motors (the driver's window was the only one that worked). I noticed that whatever they used as a jumper to test the wiring at the switch harness left the terminal cavities enlarged a bit so that the male terminals on the new switch were only making intermittent contact with the female terminals in the harness. Just something else to watch out for.

 

Here, these should be some help:

 

Very nice, you beat me to it!

 

As soon as I can I will run these tests. Does anyone know how much a master switch will cost. I see some on ebay that seem to be fairly priced.

 

Looks like list is about $185.00 but you can find it online for a good bit cheaper.

 

Hey guys-

I am currently going through the same thing..

However, mine I think is isolated, but I'm not 100% sure..

My situation:

Wife told me her door wasn't working and she had checked the fuses.. I followed up and the fuses were good.. Out of sheer curiosity, I checked the switch at different positions of the door.

Open all the way - window worked.
Shut the door - window stopped working.

So, I am thinking I have an open wire in the hinge. I grabbed the wire bundle in the hinge and wiggled it around a bit - window no longer works at full open door.

I have tested the motor directly and it works. I am about to check to see if the switch is the culprit, even though I think it is the hinge bundle.

My question is, in the diagrams linked above, I am showing different wire colors than in the schematic. The diagram is showing A3 as Red/Yel and A4 as Red/Blue.. I am showing red/yel in A6 and red/blue in A5..

??

 

scatch, did you ever fix the issue? i have the exact same problem as you and am about to order a new switch. i just want to double check to see if the switch was really the problem.

 

i also want to know if you ever fixed the problem.........

 

I'd like to know as well, when I feel my motor it is very hot?

 

Just purchased a 1990CR-V and driver power window doesn't work. Fuze is ok. When I push the switch, no sound at all. Is there a way to determine part that needs replacement before I purchase, or should I start by replacing the power regulator and see if that fixes the problem? Thanks in advance for the help. Chris.