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Discussion starter · #161 ·
I'm sorry to hear about all this. Unfortunately, you are in a bad spot. Luckily, there is nothing mechanically wrong with the V, the fuel economy is just bad. The best financial decision is to just keep it and accept the poor fuel economy unfortunately.
Which is what I'm probably going to do. But I don't understand what could be causing it that can't be corrected.
 
Discussion starter · #162 ·
It seems you are quite a way from Rochester metro, which makes it difficult. I’m sorry about all this but I have a ‘21 AWD EX-L and the mileage is much, much better. You say you have Honda warranty on the vehicle. Take it to Ralph Honda and get it assessed. Don’t trust Garber.
I am quite a ways away. The major issue is that Bob Johnson went out of their way over their policies to let me keep a loaner I could drive 93 miles away. I can try Ralph Honda, but must Honda dealerships don't have loaners and only shuttles. Garber needed 2 days to fix it. Without a loaner I couldn't do it.
 
I still think you have a stuck open thermostat. That will cause the engine to think it is cold and add fuel to each cylinder to get it up to operating temperatures.

A cheap way to find out is to get an ODBII bluetooth module and phone software and monitor the engine temperature with it.

I bet it never gets to 185 - the optimum for the 1.5L engine. At 140 you will get 20 Mpg at 185 you should get 32 Mpg.

Here are some choices and reviews of OBDII Bluetooth for phones.

Here is one that is less than $25
 
Discussion starter · #164 ·
I still think you have a stuck open thermostat. That will cause the engine to think it is cold and add fuel to each cylinder to get it up to operating temperatures.

A cheap way to find out is to get an ODBII bluetooth module and phone software and monitor the engine temperature with it.

I bet it never gets to 185 - the optimum for the 1.5L engine. At 140 you will get 20 Mpg at 185 you should get 32 Mpg.

Here are some choices and reviews of OBDII Bluetooth for phones.

Here is one that is less than $25
That one for 25 is actually on sale for 21. How easy is it to set up and how easy is it to navigate and understand the results on the app? Not that you might have even had one yourself but if you did even have one similar to go over how they work.
 
If you can work a smart cell phone - you can figure it out - not hard.
There are generic apps too You can use the least expensive ODB II dongle with free torque and the pro version is $5.


Plenty of demos in YouTube on using torque

This one is $5 on ebay
 
Discussion starter · #166 ·
If you can work a smart cell phone - you can figure it out - not hard.
There are generic apps too You can use the least expensive ODB II dongle with free torque and the pro version is $5.


Plenty of demos in YouTube on using torque

This one is $5 on ebay
Thank you. I think I'm going to pick up that one for $21 on Amazon and see what happens.
 
Let's go back to square one.
Assuming you drive 15000 miles per year and the difference in gas mileage is 10MPG below what you think you should be getting, you're using 150 gallons per year more than you think you should. If gas is $4 a gallon, you're spending $600 more per year (plug in your own numbers.) If you really love the car other than this issue, is it really worth the angst? And if you want to sell it try selling it on Craigslist or EBay and name your price and don't settle for anything below what you paid less maybe $1000 for your use thus far.
 
Discussion starter · #168 ·
I see your point. I would lose probably at least a couple of thousand by selling it even outright. I do love the car. I guess I am just having a hard time wrapping my mind around the situation. It's a machine with parts, parts break, fix them. Nothing is wrong with the car, nothing is out of place but we know it is not performing like it should. Even Honda says it isn't but no one can figure out why. I had an 2011 Taurus that I would have still been driving if I hadn't been rear ended at a stop light. I truly enjoyed and took good care of that car, inside and out. But I had saved for a long time for the day I would need a new one. I did my research, test drove a lot of cars and picked one based on the big picture. I know everyone has their opinions on it and might think I am wrong for nitpicking. It might only be $600 a year but if I keep it 12 years that is an extra $7,200 in the big picture I am spending extra. I don't think that's right. To some it might not be a lot but to me $600 can be an issue from year to year.
 
Discussion starter · #169 ·
So far I've had the dealership I purchased it from, their local Honda dealership, my local Honda dealership that Honda customer service referred me to and my own personal mechanic who has been taken care of our cars for over 15 years and I trust explicitly. No one has been able to find anything concrete wrong with the car. No codes, no engine lights, no fuel leak and the Honda dealership I went to today wasn't able to find anything physically wrong underneath. I am stumped. My wife is going to drive it to work next week as it's almost an hour for her to go one way and she is going to see if while she drives it anything changes as far as MPG that could be due to my driving habits. My mechanic says there are two possibilities but neither is guaranteed and it would be a roll of the dice. After going through everything they could they are thinking either air fuel sensor or mass air flow sensor. That's it. They kept the car and couldn't find anything concrete. I'll let my wife drive it Monday and see what happens. Have an open case with Honda customer service and my case manager who spoke to the dealership I had the car at today is going to call me back. He has been wonderful to work with but I'm sure if nobody is finding anything his hands are tied.
 
Check for leak in Air intake. I had same problem and I found out that fuel to air ratio was messed up. They found air leak and had to replace turbo intercooler. My mpg went back to normal after Intercooler was replaced. Air leak like this is suppose to give you warning but if its a small leak than error might not show up. I got exhaust system failure error once but upon reset I never got that error again even when I had problem. Intercooler sits behind AC condenser and they had to remove front bumper to replace it.
 
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