Look for my 2012 EX audio project thread there are links to all the audio diagrams - 2012 is same as 2013. There is a wire bundle going through the firewall just above the accelerator. I was able to poke a bamboo skewer through the large grommet right next to the wire bundle and easily pull a 4AWG power cable.

Do you have an LX, EX or EX-L? Which stereo? Nav, premium with sub, or regular with iMid?

Also, I recommend getting one of these... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Add-An-Amp-Amplifier-Adapter-Interface-for-select-Honda-Factory-Radio-/120995148355?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACR-V&hash=item1c2bdf7243&vxp=mtr

it worked great for me.

 

Thanks for the tip on the gas pedal grommet, got that, now I need to figure out the wiring.
I have the LX without nav 4 speaker. Not sure about iMid... might be included on the 2013's... errr.. not sure about that one. If it's any clue I tend to buy the cheap stuff so no extras that don't come on the base model.

I looked at this diagram for 2012 on page 8 for Harness 'A' & it indicates brown & yellow but I have a lot of pinks & blues. I'll go look again.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bys-c8aVt18mQy1IU0pUSUJwb0k/edit?pli=1

 

I am pretty sure this is your main audio connector. Speaker polarity isn't marked, but from the schematics, the rear speaker (+) wires are Blue. The front speaker (+) wires are White and Red

 

Thanks for the confirmation on the white/black & red/green. I got everything hooked in just after dark, cranked up the radio & the sub didn't fire up, probably a connection somewhere, gonna check in the morning. Thanks for all the help.

 

I used the Purple ACC wire for the remote turn-on to my sub amp.

 

Supposedly mine will work if it senses a high level input, I'm just tossing in a Sound Ordinance B-8PT so I'm not messing around with converting to line level (RCA) inputs or anything fancy. I'll re-check my connections in the morning & if it's still not powering up I'll run the remote wire. It should be all over but cleaning things up at this point. I hope. My wife is getting antsy for me to finish as it's her car & she doesn't exactly trust me to not set it on fire doing this stuff, probably rightfully so since I have no clue what I'm doing. If it wasn't for all the info I'm getting here I'd have to take it to someone but what's the fun in that?

 

Ok, it was bothering me so I went out & checked everything and I'll be damned if it doesn't look correct but the sub/amp isn't powering up.

Tried hooking up the remote turn on and still nothing.

Possible clues:
- I used something like 22 gauge wire to run back to the amp, too small? The factory stuff doesn't really look much bigger if at all

- before I hooked up the remote wire, I would get the power led to half heartedly come on for about half a second by switching from high level sensing to remote turn on. (it's a switch on the sub/amp)

I'm about to run out & grab a line converter & see if that does the job. Walmart car audio department is open at midnight right?

 

The speaker level inputs should work fine. I put a B-8P (the bigger one) in my son's Civic with speaker inputs and the remote ACC wire.

Next thing I would check is your ground connection. Find a chassis screw as close as possible to your amp and remove the chassis paint so the ring lug touches bare metal (I use a dremel tool to get down to bare metal). The Honda chassis paint is silver so looks like bare metal, but you have to sand it off to get a good ground.

You definitely will need bigger than 22 AWG wire for the +12 power connection - I used a cheap 8 AWG power wire on the 8-BP and it worked fine. You can get away with 10AWG or 12AWG for your 120W 8-BPT, but don't go smaller. The voltage will drop too much and the amp won't turn on.

 

It was the ground. Once again, thanks for the tip. I had no clue you had to strip some paint away to make that work.

To recap:
- pulled 8 AWG cable for +12v through the grommet nearest the accelerator pedal
- tapped into existing speaker wire using alligator clips
- Red+ / Green- A15/A16
- White+ / Black- A19/A20
- left & right didn't matter with this install
- used 22 AWG for run from factory radio harness to B-8pt (under passenger seat)
- used something smaller than 22 AWG for remote turn-on
- Purple A24
- drilled small hole in frame below passenger seat (under plastic molding) & removed the paint around it for ground
- ran all wires, hooked everything up & it works great.
- if using under the passenger seat be sure to install the B-8PT with power & inputs facing the drivers seat else it won't fit fully under the seat as they'll hit the rear right plastic covering at the base of the seat.

My take on the Sound Ordinance B-8PT:
- great on kick drums (rock, country)
- not great on bass lines (R&B, rap, classical) it simply can't get low enough.
- Paired with some decent 2-way front door speakers the sound is 10,000% better than the factory system for around $200 self installed (paid $120 for the B-8PT from Crutchfield as a scratch & dented unit, arrived brand new as far as I could tell paid $55 for some Infinity 6.5 shallow mount 2-ways, paid $15 for a sub install kit, paid $5 for some insulated alligator clips)
- If you're after full filling rumbling bass you're better off with a traditional 8" or larger sub in a proper enclosure. If you're looking for a cheap, clean, hidden option to fill in some of the gaps left by the 6.5" door speakers & the factory head unit the B-8PT is perfect.

If I did it all over again & wasn't so impatient I would more than likely buy the harness line adapter linked in the thread earlier, just seemed like an easier and cleaner install option.

Thanks for all the help.

 

Excellent. I am glad you got it working. Nice recap too - it should help others wanting to go through the same process. BTW, I finished my project last week, but I used a JL XD600/6 under passenger seat to power everything. This is the diagram of my system...

 

So did you end up piercing through the side if the grommet and snake wires through the firewall? Can you provide any additional tips and details?
I'm worried of water leaking in through the pierced grommet.

 

There is a grommet just above and slightly to the left of the accelerator pedal. You have to pull the carpet pad back to see it. It has a bundle of wires going through it. When viewing from the cabin side, I pushed my wire through the grommet just to the left of the wire bundle. First I pierced the grommet with a coat hanger. Then I cut my wire in a tapered fashion and taped it to the coat hangar and pulled it back through the side of the grommet. (I may have created an X shaped slit first with an exacto knife, but I don't remember for sure. The wire is tight enough that I am not worried about water ingress at all - and have had no trouble. If worried, you can put a dab of silicone sealer on each side. And - yes - I pushed my wire through the "side" of the grommet between the existing wire bundle and edge of the firewall hole.

 

Thanks you sir! I poked it just as you said, and went through without piercing anything but the grommet itself.

 

Hello,

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for 2014 Honda CRV EX-L it has the 7 speaker with the subwoofer.
The main difference I can see is that the main harness uses the speaker outs as a line in for the amps.
You also have to power an additional wire to get the amps on

 

I have some schematics for the EX-L with subwoofer. I will dig up and post later.

 

Do you have the navigation head unit or the regular one?

 

Where did you pick up ground for the amp? I have a ham radio that requires 20A. Does bolting to the frame provide an adequate ground for power? Ideally I'd like to wire positive and negative directly to the battery posts.

Anyone found any other places to go through the firewall other than the main umbilical? Either another grommet, or a safe place to drill one? I am reluctant to go anywhere near the main bundle.

Anyone use one of the unused high current positions in the fuse box (e.g. I have a 2014 LX with no sun roof, so that 20A position is unused). Is there a good ground location near the driver-side fuse box under the dash?

Issy

 

Hey guys, I've been lurking through this thread and I wonder if you guys can help me out with a question: I'm looking to connect an active Sub through the Hi-Level of the rear speakers. Question: Is said signal amplified by the onboard amp of the premium sound system in my 2014 Lifestyle edition (HDD Nav/Radio)? Thank you so much!!

 

Hello there Jepalan, may I approach with a question concerning just this: I'm looking to connect an active Sub through the Hi-Level of the rear speakers. Question: Is said signal amplified by the onboard amp of the premium sound system in my 2014 Lifestyle edition (HDD Nav/Radio premium sound system)? Thank you so much!!

 

Hello Robso,

If you have the premium audio system or the NAV system with the (nearly useless) subwoofer under the passenger seat, then the system uses a separate amplifier for all speakers (including the underseat sub). The amplifier is located under and slightly behind the gear shift in the center dash area. You can see it if you remove the panels in the footwell areas on either side of the center dash.

If you have the audio system without the subwoofer, then there is no separate amplifier - the speakers are connected directly to the OEM radio.

 

Thanks for being in touch!

Yeah, I found the googledoc you uploaded in the 2012 project thread and it's good to know that every speaker cable holds an already amplified signal. What I'm dying to know is: Can I tap into said amplified rear-speaker-wires to get the signal into an active subwoofer? Or will that kill the amp in that active sub? THX a bunch!

 

It will work just fine to tap into the rear speaker wires to get the signal - just make sure your new sub has true high-level "speaker-level" inputs.

The only time people run into trouble is when they try to connect speaker signals into a line-level RCA input. Sometimes this grounds out the negative speaker lead and loads down the amp.

 

Long story short:

I'd love to just hook my active subwoofer to the battery for power and get the audio signal by tapping into the speaker-cables in the rear. The thing will go under the driver seat.

Is that possible? Seems way too simple (no removal of the OEM unit, no frequency hassels, ...).

 

Yes. It is that simple. I installed an active sub in my son's Civic exactly as you describe. If the sub has a remote bass control knob, you may want to find a convenient place to mount it within reach of the driver.

Another option: if your car has the OEM subwoofer under the passenger seat, you could unplug the 2-pin connector going to it and use that signal for your new sub instead of the rear speaker signal. Either way works fine though.

 

Hi again, one last question: After browsing the web for pics of the OEM Sub, I have found what seems to be two versions of the thing. Here's Version 1, pretty much all plastic housing:

And here's Version 2 with a weird iron element that looks to be an amp, maybe?:

Both are labeled "2012-2014 OEM CR-V underseat sub". Now: Which one is the right one and then: Which are the speaker-ins? Because I still want to go as discussed yesterday: Grab the audiosignal that is underways to this sub and redirect it to my new active sub. I just want to avoid running into this 2nd version and acidentally tap into power wires ...

 

The wiring diagrams I have for 2012 and newer CR-Vs only show the sub *without* the built in amp (the top pic in your post). The bottom picture looks like the one for CR-Vs older than 2012.

But I am not 100% sure for non-US models. You could find an online Honda parts site and put in your VIN number. Then go to the Electrical parts section and you should see that the amplifier assembly is inside the center console section, not in the sub.

 

Here you can see the difference:

This one is for 2008...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subwoofer-Speaker-Under-Seat-2008-Honda-CR-V-TSX2502ZH-/131493000199?vxp=mtr&hash=item1e9d97f407

This one is for 4th gen (2012 and newer)...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-2013-HONDA-CR-V-OEM-SUBWOOFER-/141684243850?hash=item20fd09fd8a&vxp=mtr

 

Here is the wiring diagram...

 

Here is the wiring diagram...

View attachment 47810

Does anyone know what connectors look like on the amp?

I need to get an adapter to get the front left right out and send to a MS-8 ... from there I need to return to either the amp of I need to bypass the amp and I will end up needing some wire harness..


This is for a 2015 with premium audio.

I think first I need out from radio to signal processors (MS-8). I only need the single to turn on the amp and I need the front left and right... but then the return I need to I think plug into the exit harness of the amp... does anyone know if they make these two connectors?

I'd also wouldn't mind trying a connector that returns from MS-8 to the in side of the amp too.


Thanks everyone

 

Here is the amp pins and connector view...

 

Here is the amp pins and connector view...

View attachment 48353

Thanks Jepalan.

That will help with the amp input and output.

I then I really am looking for a sorta of a way to patch the 24pin out from the radio and the 24 pin into the amp. I am going to first try the factory amp... so I don't' want to splice the wires...I just want to try "plugging them in through a harness. So ... the wires that lead from the head unit to the amp... I want to separate only the audio in and out. So i'm looking for some wiring harness that let me tap into that out wires / audio wires only...

If plan 'A' doesn't work... then I'll need a 5 channel amp and i'll be feeding all the wires back to post amp. Then I'll just need a basic female adapter out from the amp.

Maybe I should draw a picture ...I might be confusing everyone.