[szyzk]

I'd be interested in hearing if you have comparisons of your own (1-10 ratings before and after)?
Factory vs. your new set up?

I'm not going to say that my upgrades compete with a high-priced car audio shop install, but they definitely improved the sound by a few points on a 1-10 scale. Speakers and a mini-amp without question made the audio better sounding than any stock system in a friend's or family member's late model vehicle (Kia Soul, Subaru Forester/Outback, Mitsubishi Outlander, Ford Escape). I'm not an audiophile but I definitely appreciate nice-sounding stereos. I spent some years in a touring & recording band, I've upgraded the audio in all of my prior vehicles, for a few years I had my own radio show on a small station, and I started using component home audio systems & building speakers back in high school over 20 years ago, so I guess I have some standards though! 😂

I would rate the stock a 5 and after the upgrades 8 or 9. The stock system wasn't offensive - a person who only listens to local AM/FM stations probably wouldn't care - but to me the quality was underpowered and the sound muddy and mushy. Obviously this is a subjective thing, but aside from more functionality via the touchscreen (my two biggest complaints: terrible navigation of albums/folders on my attached usb player and a lack of Waze/Google Maps) I can't really say what more I would want out of the audio system after the upgrade. As I said in my prior post the clarity and separation is where I want it, it gets louder than I'd ever need it without any distortion, and there's more than enough high/mid/low for me. If I was going to change anything else I would get quieter tires and rip apart everything to add in sound deadening, but I don't have any desire to do all that work for such little gain.

Also are you aware of any FM tuner upgrades that can be done to OEM stereo?
I may opt for the FM Transmitter to get my AUX 3.5mm jack capability.

I'm pretty sure I've seen people mention that they added USB ports to the stock system. I'm on my way out the door to help my daughter practice soccer, so I might not get a chance to dig up any links for you until tomorrow (if I can find them again). As for a tuner upgrade, that's something I don't remember seeing - only full head unit upgrades.

 

[Kazoo2U]

I'm not going to say that my upgrades compete with a high-priced car audio shop install, but they definitely improved the sound by a few points on a 1-10 scale. Speakers and a mini-amp without question made the audio better sounding than any stock system in a friend's or family member's late model vehicle (Kia Soul, Subaru Forester/Outback, Mitsubishi Outlander, Ford Escape). I'm not an audiophile but I definitely appreciate nice-sounding stereos. I spent some years in a touring & recording band, I've upgraded the audio in all of my prior vehicles, for a few years I had my own radio show on a small station, and I started using component home audio systems & building speakers back in high school over 20 years ago, so I guess I have some standards though! 😂

I would rate the stock a 5 and after the upgrades 8 or 9. The stock system wasn't offensive - a person who only listens to local AM/FM stations probably wouldn't care - but to me the quality was underpowered and the sound muddy and mushy. Obviously this is a subjective thing, but aside from more functionality via the touchscreen (my two biggest complaints: terrible navigation of albums/folders on my attached usb player and a lack of Waze/Google Maps) I can't really say what more I would want out of the audio system after the upgrade. As I said in my prior post the clarity and separation is where I want it, it gets louder than I'd ever need it without any distortion, and there's more than enough high/mid/low for me. If I was going to change anything else I would get quieter tires and rip apart everything to add in sound deadening, but I don't have any desire to do all that work for such little gain.



I'm pretty sure I've seen people mention that they added USB ports to the stock system. I'm on my way out the door to help my daughter practice soccer, so I might not get a chance to dig up any links for you until tomorrow (if I can find them again). As for a tuner upgrade, that's something I don't remember seeing - only full head unit upgrades.

When reading through tire posts on this forum, better tires can help reduce outside noise. But don't sell sound deadening short.
Limiting, if not eliminating, outside sounds via sound deadening will enhance all the previous work you've done. Better speakers & amps can't cover up all that extraneous noise.
Think of using your headphones to listen to your music while attending a basketball game. The music will sound better when you walk through the concourse than it will when seated inside the arena.
As always, the final decision is completely up to you.

 

[szyzk]

But don't sell sound deadening short.
Limiting, if not eliminating, outside sounds via sound deadening will enhance all the previous work you've done.

Oh, yeah, I wasn't trying to downplay sound deadening and/or other noise mitigation measures like buying quieter tires. Having a whisper-quiet environment is definitely necessary to allow music to sound its best. I just don't find my Honda to be overly noisy - at least not to the point that I want to go through the trouble of ripping up the carpet, headliner, or hatch to add pricey deadening material. I didn't even take the vapor barrier off the door when I replaced the speakers; boom mats sealed out enough lower door sounds for me to be happy.

We'll see if I change my mind once I drive this on crunchy snow.

 

[Kazoo2U]

In the three Hondas which I've upgraded the sound system & added deadener, I've never felt the need to rip out the interior & layering deadener throughout them. Doing the doors, trunk, & spare tire well, to my ears, has given me the most bang for the buck.

So far, OEM Hankook Kynergy GT tires are at 7/32 after 14 months, 22K miles. Will have to wait a little longer to replace them.

Sounds like you'll be enjoying your new system for a while.

 

[someguywithav]

In the three Hondas which I've upgraded the sound system & added deadener,

I keep my cars for 8-10 years, and love music so IMO, the money is well spent to get a better stereo. More enjoyment than a brake job right? lol
szyzk: I am no audiophile either, but I also appreciate a good sounding stereo.
I don't want to go overboard with $ and shake my neighbours dentures either.

I am going to drop by the car audio store to discuss options.
So far I think this is what I am going to do for my 2015 CRV EX. (following your advice Kazoo2U)

-Keep OEM head unit
-Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack amp $249CDN (installed by the car audio shop)
-Possibly add an AUX jack (depending on price they charge while they have the OEM HU out)
-JL Audio C1-650 pair $200 front doors only (installed by me)
-Kilmat sound deadening in front doors and spare tire area. $75 (installed by me)
-Tires....my OEM Conti- Cross Contacts tires are ok for now, not too noisy, going to go with my trusty Michelin Defenders for my next summer set.

Questions:
1) do you have any instructions or tips getting the door panels off? I am a little anxious about doing this.
2) The upper door tweeters look like a bugger to get to. Are they difficult to install the new ones into those housings?
3) Should I bother spending the extra $200 for the back door speakers as well?
4) Kilmat....is 50 sq feet enough? or do I only need 25 s.f.? what is the dimensions of the sheets?
5) Lastly, should I buy the amp and speakers from Crutchfield in advance, or do you think a car audio shop will get them at the same price/better?

Thanks for your help guys! This forum is excellent!

 

[agentl074]

I keep my vehicles for a long time as well... I sold my stang after 18 years! Aftermarket audio is definitely something nice if you have the coin to spend. When I dabbled with that stuff years ago, I used Kenwood and Pioneer -- very well known and legendary brands. I would have a car audio shop do everything -- that way there won't be any issues. When doing sound, it's best to do it all... head, amps, and speakers.

 

[Kazoo2U]

Questions:
1) do you have any instructions or tips getting the door panels off? I am a little anxious about doing this.
2) The upper door tweeters look like a bugger to get to. Are they difficult to install the new ones into those housings?
3) Should I bother spending the extra $200 for the back door speakers as well?
4) Kilmat....is 50 sq feet enough? or do I only need 25 s.f.? what is the dimensions of the sheets?
5) Lastly, should I buy the amp and speakers from Crutchfield in advance, or do you think a car audio shop will get them at the same price/better?

Thanks for your help guys! This forum is excellent!

Other than the advice I've already posted, I'll attempt to answer your questions. Hope this is not too long, nor repetitious.

1. Get a good set of plastic interior trim removal tools. Will help you removing the interior trim.
Check YouTube for several excellent videos about removing door panels. Here is one:

I found the trim removal tools better at applying sound deadener material than using the roller.

2. Order replacement tweeter mounts. Got mine from site sponsor Bernardi: Shop Genuine Honda OEM Parts & Accessories Online - Bernardi Parts Honda
That way, you don't have to cut into your OEM mounts. Plus, you'll have a clean "sheet" with which to work applying your new tweeters.
Front tweeter removal:

.

3. Just as easy to replace all the speakers in each door. IMHO, replacing all the speakers at the same time just makes sense. Kind of like replacing both batteries in a flashlight at the same time.
After removing your OEM speakers, do a test fit, especially with the front door speakers.
Roll your windows down all the way. Insert your new speakers to see if there are any clearance issues with the window pane.
On my '18 install, the first set of Alpine speakers I ordered were too deep. They would not fit flush with the pane down. Would fit with the pane up. Didn't want to break either speaker or
pane.
Called Crutchfield & explained the problem. Tech went through other options, then sent speakers which fit the door with the pane all the way down.

4. 50 sq ft should be ample.
Didn't use that much when I did all 4 doors [inner part of outside skin], metal framework of the door, along with the entire spare tire well & the rear hatch.
Had enough left over to add some to the doors on our 2010 Accord.
When applying sound deadener materials, spread several sheets out in the sun. Warmed sheets adhere easier than cool sheets. Be warned: once applied & rolled, sheets are a pain to
remove. The old saw, "Measure twice, cut once" really applies.

5. Visit several car audio shops to see what they have to sell.
I used Crutchfield because most of the audio shops I visited had brands I hadn't heard of, or were basically trying to sell high powered sonic blaster systems.
Crutchfield sells installation kits for your speakers which have all the parts you should need. Don't have to run around because you forgot to get something locally.
Plus, Crutchfield has great customer service. See #3 above.

Don't be afraid to shop around. When I did our 2018, went to 2 different locations of the same installation company for the amp install. #1 wanted to throw in everything, including the kitchen sink. #2 did what I asked them to do: no complaints, no up selling either. Guess which one got my business.

My 70+ year old ears know what they like. What I don't like is having my rear view mirror vibrate because of the bass pounding out by the person behind me. Methinks a growth occupation for this generation is going to be as an audiologist selling hearing aids. I don't see how some drivers expect to be hearing anything once they get past the age of 50. [Some of you might be wondering if I stand out in front of my house yelling, "Get off of my lawn." Not when it hits 100+ outside, as it has been for the past week!]

 

[szyzk]

Questions:
1) do you have any instructions or tips getting the door panels off? I am a little anxious about doing this.
2) The upper door tweeters look like a bugger to get to. Are they difficult to install the new ones into those housings?
3) Should I bother spending the extra $200 for the back door speakers as well?
4) Kilmat....is 50 sq feet enough? or do I only need 25 s.f.? what is the dimensions of the sheets?
5) Lastly, should I buy the amp and speakers from Crutchfield in advance, or do you think a car audio shop will get them at the same price/better?

1. It was ridiculously easy in my 2016. There's a small plastic cover behind the door handle latch that needs released to reveal two screws, then a rubber piece that lifts out of the molded hand-pull that reveals one screw. The sail panels that house the tweeters pop right off with a twist of a small nylon pry tool or plastic putty knife. With that taken care of, I used a wide putty knife to push between where the metal door meets the plastic door panel - sort of in the middle of the panel under the molded storage cavity at the bottom of the door. I used my free hand to grab that storage cavity, began to pull, and pried with the putty knife at the same time. Once the first plastic pin popped the rest pretty much let go with little effort. Just start underneath and work up each side of the panel. The entire panel then lifts up off the lip where it meets the window, and you can then push the door handle mechanism through the back of the panel before unplugging two connectors at the power window controls (there may be additional connectors depending on your model/trim). At that point you have access to the main speakers, though the wiring is wrapped in a loom and mostly hidden behind the vapor barrier.

Removing the main speakers is easy - remove the only screw holding them in, then tap gently on the bottom of the speaker bracket with a hammer until the assembly lifts up. Then they just pull out and unplug.

One last word of advice: there is a plastic ring molded into the back side of the door panel (around the built-in speaker grill) that needs trimmed off before the panel will pop back in once your new speakers are in place. A box cutter or X-acto will slice through it like butter, and as long as you pay even a minimal amount of attention while doing it you'll never be in danger of slicing through the panel or the speaker grill.

2. The tweeters are hardwired, so they need cut. Then they pretty much snap out of their plastic mount. My new tweeters were just about the same size around as the molded ring the OEM tweeters snapped in to, so I cut and bent a piece of metal backstrap (you could also use hanger strap if you have any left over from a plumbing or ductwork home improvement job), glued it to the back of the tweeter, and glued that to the mount. I ended up soldering the wires, heatshrinking, then wrapping them in tesa tape.

3. I did, but you don't necessarily have to. All things being equal they are quieter than the fronts, so I have my fade set slightly to the rear and the rear gain on my Kicker amp is turned up slightly higher than the front. I do think - at least with the speakers I chose - you get a bit more bass out of the rears than you do with the fronts.

4. I'm not a good judge of estimated area so I won't chime in on sq ft. I'm also more a believer in using strips of deadening material in specific areas of the doors/wells versus applying a whole sheet of material over the metal. I would say that if road noise is bothersome, use some material in the cavities and around the handles on the doors, and also around the same on the back hatch (I assume the panel pops off similar to how it does from the doors). Then you can decide if it's worth doing work in the spare tire well.

5. I'm in a total dead zone for car audio places so I didn't bother doing price comparisons vs Crutchfield. My guess is that by the time you pay for speaker brackets and the snap-in wiring harnesses you're better off buying what you need from Crutchfield (unless a local shop is offering a blowout price on speakers).

6. I tried to figure out where I had seen info about adding aux jacks and I think I misremembered a few projects people documented where they added extra usb outlets (or they re-routed existing usb outlets). I can't speak to this because I didn't test the empty connectors at the back of the stereo with my multimeter, but there were a lot of unused plugs back there. If they work natively - but just have nothing plugged in - I don't see why a shop wouldn't be able to figure out which is an aux line using the car's wiring diagram so that they could wire up an aux-in port somewhere on the dash or center console. There's a ton of room in the car to run wire.

 

[szyzk]

2. Order replacement tweeter mounts. Got mine from site sponsor Bernardi: Shop Genuine Honda OEM Parts & Accessories Online - Bernardi Parts Honda
That way, you don't have to cut into your OEM mounts. Plus, you'll have a clean "sheet" with which to work applying your new tweeters.
Front tweeter removal:

.

As I was hitting the post reply button I started wondering if Honda put the tweeters in a different spot on prior models... And I see that you answered this, and that yes, they are.

So yeah, in my prior reply the sail panel part of #1 and all of #2 wouldn't apply to a 2015.

 

[someguywithav]

Thanks for the responses guys. I look forward to this install someday soon.

 

[thennam]

Did you retain the factory USB ports in the vehicle? I purchased the USB2 and it seems to work for one USB port and not both usb ports because of shape. I have a 2015 crv ex