Shoot. It's not terrible, but definitely a PITA.

 

Well, I picked up the "3 Ton Low Profile" jack at Harbor Freight. ($80 in March w/ coupon 74903253... my circular came early; they gladly take the coupons before the start of the month.) It has just enough lift to get the rears off the ground (1" to spare), and just enough reach to lift the factory jack point for the front (although you'll be doing a lot of shallow pumping as you work the handle between the fender and wheel.)

If you want a little more reach, you need to go to the 2T Long-reach/Low-profile, but it's $140.

Also grabbed a pair of 3T stands. ($18 after 20% off coupon, or coupon 75016008)

 

Street mechanics improvise, we use a 4x4 piece of wood on top of the jack lift point ... works every time and a lot cheaper....

 

I was just going to say that. My dad taught me that trick 30 years ago.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Do what with the 4x4 chunk? That'll make it taller for the rear lift point, but still won't help you reach the point for the front.

 

Where are the jack points if it were put on a lift? Not the one they drive onto, but the ones where they can take the wheels off. I have two jacks similar to the link below and have never had an issue reaching anywhere under neath a vehicle. Both with height and jack location.

You get what you pay for when it comes to tools.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NLE7916420#

 

The lift points are the large tabs underneath the doors. But that is ALSO the only suitable place for the stands. With previous cars, I had a plethora of places to put the jack and/or stands (subframe bolts usually) which meant I could place the stands alongside the pinch welds (where they are supposed to go.) With this car, all the traditional jack points are covered up, leaving only that point in the center for the front of the car.

That jack you posted a picture of should do, but it'll still be a long reach for that front point. I'm not quite sure what you mean when you say "you get what you pay for"; my new $80 HF jack seems to be adequate for the job. (And my $40 Craftsman did just fine for 15 years, even if it is too small for this particular car.)

 

I have my own hoist in my shop.

 

Hey another North Dakota 17 crv guy on here!

 

I have a Pittsburg 2-ton Low Profile High Lift Jack that I bought for my S2000, it reaches very far under the car so I think it should be good for the CR-V.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-...on-low-profilelong-reach-steel-heavy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-68050.html

 

Thank you sirwired for posting this helpful information. I'm looking forward to more info that you would like to share from your "day of service info access".

 

After reading all these horror stories about jacking up this new CR-V I decided to craw down and look under my new one. I am dumbfounded by the comments. When I looked under there I saw a perfectly normal looking sub structure of common design on vehicles today. There is a very nice sub-frame attached to the unibody. The unibody has the structural elements found on most every car built today. I can't see (for me) any issue with jacking this car up.

If you look underneath where the subframe attaches to the unibody structure there is a box section there. This section of the body is actually built of HSS (high strength steel) and will easily support the weight of the vehicle. A standard shop floor jack goes right in and you also have room for standard 5 ton jack stands. Nothing unusual at all about this, the same type body structure we have worked with for many many years.

Now, granted I am not a typical DIY amateur car guy. I taught people how to safely work under vehicles so I only use real floor jacks, the 2 or 3 ton roll around things. I just don't trust those little toy jacks in the trunk for anything more than an emergency tire change. Nor would I work under a car on one of those tiny $29.95 Chinese toys. My life is worth more than that! I did lose a friend who was working at home with one of those.

Go down to Harbor Freight and for under $100 they have lots of good choices. Pick up some GOOD quality jack stands and you are in business. There is nothing difficult or unusual about lifting this new CR-V if you have normal shop equipment.

 

So, are you talking about the unibody section just forward before everything disappears under the fiberglass insulator of doom that covers most of the underside? (There are two galvanized steel bolts protruding from it on each side?) Thank you for pointing it out; with the subframe itself pretty much hidden underneath all those covers, it's not exactly easy to spot if you don't know exactly what you are looking for (a random section of unibody being a bad idea for lifting the car).

And I'd venture to say that most of us here ARE "typical DIY amateur car guys." I don't think there's anything unusual about not wanting to spend near $100 on a new hulking jack. The jack I used successfully for 15 years is a "real jack" (though not a large one), and I do indeed use it safely, with stands. (I wouldn't work underneath a car supported by ANY jack... not a $29 cheapo special, not some hulking monster costing hundreds.) My garage is a typical 2-car garage (the style with two doors), and I don't have enough space on the right side of the car to use a full-size jack (I have bumpers to keep the walls from scuffing my doors.)

And if you do want to use the rear towing lug for the rear lift point (though there are obvious options on either side), the only option at HF for under $100 is the single one I picked (3T Low-Profile.) None of the other sub-$100 models have sufficient lifting height unless you use a pretty fair-sized height extension.

 

If anyone chooses to put additional wood etc. to the jacks lifting service then extra care is needed. The jacks are not made to be used that way. Yes, on a rare occasion I too have done that, and one time with severe damage to part of the vehicle. So, there is risk involved.

If your jack does not have enough reach then it is well worth the money to buy one that does and Harbor Freight is a good source. I had to retire an old Craftsman jack that was over 30 years old recently. It was built like a battleship. The cost of the hydraulics repair kit was sky high so I retired it. My new low profile 3 ton Harbor Freight jack is well built too and does the job in good fashion. Sure I would prefer to buy a USA made jack, but the price shock is nuts!

And don't forget to take the time to use jack stands. The floor jack is just to lift the vehicle. Be safe!

 

Manual show jacking points behind the front tires and in front of rear wheels. Why can't these be used.

 

Those points are where the jack stands have to go. They can only be used for jacking for tire changes, where you don't get under the car. (They can also be used with four-point shop lifts, where the lifts are equipped with backup safety catches as part of the basic design.)

 

Costco has a heavy duty 3ton jack for about $100. If I need to extend the height or protect the lift point, a hocky puck works well.

 

I'm sure shops won't have a problem.

 

As I said, those are the points the jack stands have to go. You can't use them for the stands if you've raised the car using the same point. Replacing a tire doesn't require getting underneath the vehicle, so if the jack fails or the car falls off you won't be injured, unless you are doing it wrong. (The car will be injured, but you'll be fine) Any car you get underneath MUST be supported by jackstands; jacks can (and do) fail suddenly.

The cheap jacks in the trunk of the car are often called "widowmakers" after the number of people that use them for oil changes and learn (briefly) just how terrible they are. They are nearly-inadequate for their listed task of emergency tire changing, and deadly-terrible for any other use. But even fancy hydraulic jacks costing $100's can suddenly fail, with fatal results.

 

As I said, those are the points the jack stands have to go. You can't use them for the stands if you've raised the car using the same point.

Right. Use your floor jack on the "frame" rails and then you can put your jackstands on the jack point a.k.a "pinch weld". As you may know the car has this strong part of the structure that acts as a frame. It runs down both sides and then has location points where the front sub-frame and rear suspension bolt into. These are strong areas and will easily support the weight of the vehicle. Be careful of how far back from the front wheels you place jackstands. The Center of Gravity of most FWD cars is about where the steering wheel is. You may have noticed this if you put your jack further back and lift the car. The entire side of the car will raise up. You can actually use one jack location to pull off both front and rear wheels at the same time.
But I don't recommend playing around with things you aren't sure of. I have seen more than one vehicle fall off jacks or even four point lifts while up in the air because the mechanic (technician) wasn't careful about where he lifted the vehicle and it fell when he removed a part. While working for a major car maker we had to teach proper lifting during every class regardless of what the class was about due to all the law suits that were coming up over cars falling off jacks and lifts and injuring and even killing people. So my nature is to be cautious. Like I said, I lost a personal friend to a vehicle falling on him while up on a jack.

 

Glad I bit the bullet and bought an AC Hydraulics jack years ago. It is very low profile for my weekend toy, yet has a long tongue and a high lift. It should work well on the new CR-V.
http://www.ac-hydraulic.dk/us/products/hydraulic-jacks/dk13hlq/

I also have a couple of cross beam adaptors that may come in handy as well.
http://www.ac-hydraulic.dk/us/products/t3/

There's no substitute for having the right tool for the job at hand.

 

This guy doesnt know where the right jacking spots are...2015, 2016 and 2017 crv have the same jacking spot. " Rear towing hook?" What are you talking about. And front with hole... what are you looking at.... Seriously... Oh come on your misleading everyone here.

 

Here is a helpful link, albeit about the '15, likeley the same as '17:
https://www.bing.com/images/search?...d=cl6rZbiu&simid=608011085219759723&thid=OIP.cl6rZbiuuZ0p0fCrD5Y6MwEsCo&first=1

FFS, people, the '17 is a completely different car built on an entirely different chassis vs. the Gen4. Surprise, surprise, since the chassis is different, there's new jack points.

That rear hook you posted a picture of from the '15? On the '17, that nice flat plate for your jack isn't there you must use the hook itself. Which you'd know if you'd actually LOOKED at a '17, instead of just spouting off about something you have precisely zero direct knowledge of. Just hunching over at your local Honda dealership would have been enough.

On the front? NO plate at all anywhere near the front bumper. The central jack point (which I got directly out of the '17 factory service manual, instead of just assuming it was the same as the previous generation) is exactly as I described. It's in the center of the chassis about a foot behind the front axles. I mentioned the hole to make it easier to identify. Again, if you actually LOOKED at a 2017, you'd see that helpful plate right near the front bumper on the Gen4 does not exist.

I got both of these right out of the 2017 factory service information. Where did you develop these pearls of wisdom? Oh, that's right, from looking at your completely different earlier CR-V. I've seen the official info on the jack points for the earlier models; yep, they are exactly as you describe, and not the same as the points for the '17.

I've come the the conclusion that this forum is no different from the rest of the internet; occasionally visited by people that want to pretend they know more than they do, and act like an authority on things they know little about. Did it occur to you there's a reason there's a separate forum for the Gen5? Did you bother to read my very first post in the thread where I discussed how it was different from the previous models? No, you didn't. You simply decided to state, without checking of any sort, that it was the same, and then expound on how stupid and ignorant everybody else is.

 

I came to the conclusion that this forum is just full of inexperienced mechanically inclined people with 0 knowledge and of no help. Very different than the other honda forums i use for my s2000 and prelude. Kinda sucks because this is the only crv forum as far as i can find..

 

I came to the conclusion that this forum is just full of inexperienced mechanically inclined people with 0 knowledge and of no help.

You hit that nail on the head. I said the same thing to my wife several months ago. I'm sure a lot of them don't have much for tools either.

 

Here is a helpful link, albeit about the '15, likeley the same as '17:
https://www.bing.com/images/search?...d=cl6rZbiu&simid=608011085219759723&thid=OIP.cl6rZbiuuZ0p0fCrD5Y6MwEsCo&first=1

 

Thanks for the link.

 

Well said, Aaron.

 

I've been waiting All night for this response

 

I hope this picture serves as an Evidence that this guy is misleading most of you. He was saying "BAD NEWS FOR DIY-ers and its hard to lift your crv because of this and that....And its been same jacking point from 2015 to 2017. What you say boys?

 

Bahaha you are totally missing the point Isko. We all know how to read the manual and that you can jack it there for tire changes.

 

Isko,

Thank you for the pictures. The issue is, that, once you jack up the car like that, where do you put the jack stands?

For changing a tire, the setup in your pictures is OK, but you should not be going under the car with just the jack as your support.

Typically there is a front and rear jack point you can use to raise the car so you can fit jack stands on the jack points you show in your picture. Then, you can change the oil/trans. fluid/etc. safely.

The point of this thread is that apparently there is no "front" jack point that is easily accessible from the front of the car (on my Accord it was in front of the engine). The "front" jack point is in the center of the car around the front axel, so it is behind the engine and between the wheels. This may require a special jack to reach. I have not tested this on my CR-V but I understand the concern and I'm disappointed it is not easier.