there has to be an easy way to get the fog lights to be on with both high and low beams, they fill in so well on the low beam pattern and the high beam pattern sucks, i think if the fog lights were on with the high beams it would fill in the area in front and the ditches on the sides of the road very nicely, thanks in advance from a new member...............t
t bone
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Recently added Dexter 1's option 4 fog light mod, (Thank You Dexter 1 for this)
I did the following to our 2013 CR-V:
Replaced the stock headlamp bulbs with OSRAM 70/65w Rallye bulbs.
Added Dexter 1's option 4 relay for independent fog light operation.
Pulled fuse 21 (DRL) from the fuse box under the dash on the drivers side.
The OSRAM Rallye bulbs are a great improvement in total output but like all high performance bulbs have a shorter lifespan. I now leave the fog lights on all the time as DRL's and when the OEM bulbs burn out I will replace them with Long Life H11's.
A few notes on the install:
I see no dash indicators on as a result of pulling the DRL fuse.
My car did not require the wire from the "smaller lighting relay control unit" to the DPDT relay shown in CyC's drawing, it is wired as shown in option 4 of Dexter 1's tutorial.
I have some concerns that running the H4 bulb with both high and low filaments on (Option 2) could cause the bulb to explode (YMMV)
I did the following to our 2013 CR-V:
Replaced the stock headlamp bulbs with OSRAM 70/65w Rallye bulbs.
Added Dexter 1's option 4 relay for independent fog light operation.
Pulled fuse 21 (DRL) from the fuse box under the dash on the drivers side.
The OSRAM Rallye bulbs are a great improvement in total output but like all high performance bulbs have a shorter lifespan. I now leave the fog lights on all the time as DRL's and when the OEM bulbs burn out I will replace them with Long Life H11's.
A few notes on the install:
I see no dash indicators on as a result of pulling the DRL fuse.
My car did not require the wire from the "smaller lighting relay control unit" to the DPDT relay shown in CyC's drawing, it is wired as shown in option 4 of Dexter 1's tutorial.
I have some concerns that running the H4 bulb with both high and low filaments on (Option 2) could cause the bulb to explode (YMMV)
I put in one Rallye bulb this evening and tried to get a garage door picture of the notable difference the new vs stock bulb made, but there's just too much total light for the camera to capture. I'll see what some post processing can highlight tomorrow. I wouldn't call it mega bright, but it's noteworthy. With both bulbs now in I might even lower the aim ever so slightly to brighten the foreground a smidge.
Our old Honda would switch to just the high filament when the stalk was moved forward, but illuminate both when you pulled it back (flash-to-pass mode). Honda thought it was acceptable back then and no bulbs exploded! But, that was with stock 55/60 units. 65/70 might be a different case.
I agree, when I put a 70/65w Rallye bulb in one headlamp the difference looking at them and on the wall wasn't dramatic.
On the road it's a much more noticeable difference, especially on high where the stock lights didn't light up much of the road at all just distant objects. With the Rallye's, the beam lights up both distant objects and the road.
The flash-to-pass mode is for a very short time, unlike wiring them to have both filaments on all the time.
Do a search for: H4 both filaments on, I'm not the only one with this concern.
I wouldn't wire mine this way but obviously some people have, and maybe it will never cause a problem.
Agree, there’s always cause for concern with the 9003 bulb lighting system.
I heard about some doing this kind of modification back when I owned a Gen-II Odyssey (2002). I drove around with the stalk pulled back for as much time as possible to assure myself that a cataclysmic meltdown wasn’t imminent before I was willing to make any modifications. And easy access to the service manual and schematics provided solid data and peace of mind. I feel so blind trying to do anything on the 2013 without this!
I’ve attached a page from the manual. To begin with, downstream of the ‘auto-off’ relays we see a 15 amp fuse on each side. That tells us the wiring could likely take a continuous 115 watt load. Of course we have to be cautious that the plastic headlight housings and 3 pin socket can too!
The system uses a form of 'reverse logic', in that 12v is always applied to the bulbs, and it's switching of grounds that determines if they are on or off. The Combination Light Switch has two modes for the high beam filament: Dimmer & Passing. In the normal (center) position, the dimmer switch has the low beam filament tied to ground. When you switch to high beams (pushed forward) it floats (disables, or 'High-Z') the low filament output and connects the high to ground. The ‘Passing Switch’ has it’s own set of momentary contacts, and grounds the high filament while leaving the low filament also connected to ground. So the solution was relatively simple: Just permanently ground out the low beam switched-ground (white-red wire), so that it can never be disconnected. Tap the wire at the back of each headlamp, and tie it to a chassis ground. Easy to do, and easy to restore to stock.
Of course, those vans didn’t have daytime running lights!! DRL’s reconfigure the high beams ground connection with either a switchable load resistor on each side, or place the two filaments in series. So if you enact this simple modification on your CR-V, you’ll be messing with the DRL implementation.
Right now I'm not feeling inclined to try this on the CRV. Just putting it out there that it has been done on Honda's before to improve upon total lighting.
![Image]()
I heard about some doing this kind of modification back when I owned a Gen-II Odyssey (2002). I drove around with the stalk pulled back for as much time as possible to assure myself that a cataclysmic meltdown wasn’t imminent before I was willing to make any modifications. And easy access to the service manual and schematics provided solid data and peace of mind. I feel so blind trying to do anything on the 2013 without this!
I’ve attached a page from the manual. To begin with, downstream of the ‘auto-off’ relays we see a 15 amp fuse on each side. That tells us the wiring could likely take a continuous 115 watt load. Of course we have to be cautious that the plastic headlight housings and 3 pin socket can too!
The system uses a form of 'reverse logic', in that 12v is always applied to the bulbs, and it's switching of grounds that determines if they are on or off. The Combination Light Switch has two modes for the high beam filament: Dimmer & Passing. In the normal (center) position, the dimmer switch has the low beam filament tied to ground. When you switch to high beams (pushed forward) it floats (disables, or 'High-Z') the low filament output and connects the high to ground. The ‘Passing Switch’ has it’s own set of momentary contacts, and grounds the high filament while leaving the low filament also connected to ground. So the solution was relatively simple: Just permanently ground out the low beam switched-ground (white-red wire), so that it can never be disconnected. Tap the wire at the back of each headlamp, and tie it to a chassis ground. Easy to do, and easy to restore to stock.
Of course, those vans didn’t have daytime running lights!! DRL’s reconfigure the high beams ground connection with either a switchable load resistor on each side, or place the two filaments in series. So if you enact this simple modification on your CR-V, you’ll be messing with the DRL implementation.
Right now I'm not feeling inclined to try this on the CRV. Just putting it out there that it has been done on Honda's before to improve upon total lighting.
Did a similar mod on my '15 Silverado, LOVE IT!!! ALL forward white lights are ON when I engage my HIGHs, including flash to pass. Looking forward to doing this mod on my '16 CR-V EX-L.
Along the same line of this mod, when I turn on my HIGHs, I want ALL forward-facing white lights ON, including the "eyebrows" (AKA: DRLs) at full intensity (like in Parking Light mode). Also, I want to turn my "eyebrows" OFF when the Parking Lights are set, replaced by all forward ambers ON solid, like every other car in the world.
Along the same line of this mod, when I turn on my HIGHs, I want ALL forward-facing white lights ON, including the "eyebrows" (AKA: DRLs) at full intensity (like in Parking Light mode). Also, I want to turn my "eyebrows" OFF when the Parking Lights are set, replaced by all forward ambers ON solid, like every other car in the world.
I have a quick ? on doing some of the fog light mods. 1st, I have a 2014 CR-V LX. I would like to add fog lights, and also have some of the options above. What do you really need to do?
1) Fog Light Kit
2) What switch do most use when doing an LX? (get an EX light stalk, or just add the toggle switch)
3) With the 4 options, how does that work, you choose the one you want and wire it that way, or can you have all 4 options and switch it for the one you want at that time?
most of my driving is highway, but I do have a portion that is back roads, and we have tons of deer in my area, brighter lights in the morning commute would be extremely helpful.
thanks for any incite.
1) Fog Light Kit
2) What switch do most use when doing an LX? (get an EX light stalk, or just add the toggle switch)
3) With the 4 options, how does that work, you choose the one you want and wire it that way, or can you have all 4 options and switch it for the one you want at that time?
most of my driving is highway, but I do have a portion that is back roads, and we have tons of deer in my area, brighter lights in the morning commute would be extremely helpful.
thanks for any incite.
Aside from all this, can I run fog lights only with the parking lights only? I have a honda crv 2013 that came with h11 projectors for low beams hb3 high beams and h11 fog lights.. I know many 2013 crvs comes with different lighting and I'm not sure if your mod is for that, the reflector lights crv..
Planning to run hid on low beams and led for fog lights, I live in an apartment complex with underground parking lot so I need to turn the lights on but for a short time, kinda want to save the hids and just run the fog lights.
For me, the most direct and foolproof method was to simply wire the fog lights directly to a seperate switch and turn them on as I please. A relay, switch and some wire for a few bucks. You may find an empty switch position on the dash and be able to use an OEM Honda switch. Got one on eBay for $6. Half hour job.
Thanks for posting this mod, unfortunately im having trouble getting it to work on a 2014 crv exl
I followed the directions to the letter and the fogs still shut off when the high beams are applied.On
I'm doing option 1 if that matters.
Is there anything I may have missed? When I move the fog light relay lead to the normally closed dpdt post the fog lights come right on, even with the keys not in the car so I'm feeling like I'm so close.
I triple checked all connections, everything is tight and secure, i tried a new dpdt relay as the first one was a "new old stock" from ebay, the new one is modern from radio shack online store.
Hoping for some ideas before I give up and go with an independent switch and harness.
Thanks for any help
Jeff-
I followed the directions to the letter and the fogs still shut off when the high beams are applied.On
I'm doing option 1 if that matters.
Is there anything I may have missed? When I move the fog light relay lead to the normally closed dpdt post the fog lights come right on, even with the keys not in the car so I'm feeling like I'm so close.
I triple checked all connections, everything is tight and secure, i tried a new dpdt relay as the first one was a "new old stock" from ebay, the new one is modern from radio shack online store.
Hoping for some ideas before I give up and go with an independent switch and harness.
Thanks for any help
Jeff-
Hi Jeff,
I have been waiting for someone to report back on success or failure. Since the prior posts seem to suggest the process does work, I can only assume you missed something or the instructions are flawed.
Hopefully someone will chime in with some solutions.
It's a great mod, I wish it would work for me...I haven't given up quite yet, I'm fairly certain its a matter of moving a wire to a different spot and it will work.
I've been considering moving the steering column wire down to the interior fuse box to an ignition activated slot.
I'm not electrically skilled but I think my relay isn't getting power so it's not making whatever magic takes place inside a relay to close the normally open circut.
I'll be sure to post back if I get I sorted out.
Jeff-
I've been considering moving the steering column wire down to the interior fuse box to an ignition activated slot.
I'm not electrically skilled but I think my relay isn't getting power so it's not making whatever magic takes place inside a relay to close the normally open circut.
I'll be sure to post back if I get I sorted out.
Jeff-
Joined
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1,840 Posts
Relays are simple. It's an electromagnet. Positive and negative applied and it energizes, pulling a piece of metal over closing the circuit. Even with someone typing up instructions it's best to search for a wiring diagram because the wires color codes can change over years.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
thank you for the input
i dont think im getting power to the relay, according to the instructions it should energize the relay when the high beams are turned on, closing the circuit and keeping my fogs on..that is definitely not happening:bluduh:.
the wiring diagram for a 2014 crv is apparently a unicorn..lol...multiple searches have turned up zero useful information.
The photos included in the tutorial match what i have exactly, i was very confident at the start that this was going to work. Maybe youre right though, its not unheard of for a manufacturer to change things as they go.
An independent harness and switch are available on ebay for about $15, but the bumper looks to be a major chore to remove..ugh.
Jeff-
Joined
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8 Posts
The European Model uses Projector headlights.
www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de
Can't we just replace the headlights with European ones?
![137854]( "137854")
Gebrauchte Autoteile günstig | kleinanzeigen.de
Kleinanzeigen: Gebrauchte Autoteile günstig kaufen - Jetzt in Großrinderfeld finden oder inserieren! - kleinanzeigen.de
Can't we just replace the headlights with European ones?
I installed custom "parallel" 12 volt wiring on my wife's 2014 CRV to enable Factory Fog lights while High beam is ON as well. Simple low cost parts from eBay and very simple DIY install as well. And before I sell my wife's vehicle in future, I can apply a simple "undo - back to factory" configuration as well. For more details, surf: Fog Light mod - simple version...
Note: Above is labeled FOG lights as DRLs but they can be "on" with H beam as well...
IMO, this should be factory "base build". Especially for folks driving in deep dark country woods.
Note: Above is labeled FOG lights as DRLs but they can be "on" with H beam as well...
IMO, this should be factory "base build". Especially for folks driving in deep dark country woods.
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38 Posts
I know this is a thread revival, but I found it while on my phone and can't open the attachment Dexter put up. Hoping it works for me on my computer, saving this for later!
Joined
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38 Posts
Apparently there's a plug-and-play premade relay kit for this (don't really see how that's possible) called the "4 High Mod" - I'm not sure where you find it, but food for thought it case anyone is reading this in the future.
I managed to get everything hooked up and it works perfectly. Big thanks to Dexter for putting this together (Merry Christmas whereever you are!) . Whenever you flash the high beams at folk (pulling the lever towards you) the low beams/fog lights do not power on; however, pushing the lever forward to "turn on" the high beams leaves the low beams/fog lights on. That is exactly what I was looking for! Also - my car is a 2012 that I retrofitted the 2015/2016 headlights to (highly recommended). I posted a "how to" thread on here for those curious.
The two tricky spots for me during this install were fitting everything under/around the Light Relay Control Unit (in the fuse box) and shaping the damn fuse taps. Other than that - everything went perfect. I even passed another wire from the cab into the engine bay, just in case I wanted to do another project in the future. I'm getting old, I only want to contort myself like that as few times as possible. Haha!
I managed to get everything hooked up and it works perfectly. Big thanks to Dexter for putting this together (Merry Christmas whereever you are!) . Whenever you flash the high beams at folk (pulling the lever towards you) the low beams/fog lights do not power on; however, pushing the lever forward to "turn on" the high beams leaves the low beams/fog lights on. That is exactly what I was looking for! Also - my car is a 2012 that I retrofitted the 2015/2016 headlights to (highly recommended). I posted a "how to" thread on here for those curious.
The two tricky spots for me during this install were fitting everything under/around the Light Relay Control Unit (in the fuse box) and shaping the damn fuse taps. Other than that - everything went perfect. I even passed another wire from the cab into the engine bay, just in case I wanted to do another project in the future. I'm getting old, I only want to contort myself like that as few times as possible. Haha!
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