Can't speak to the Generation 3, but if the tensioner was an aftermarket unit, it COULD be failing/vibrating.


Have it checked out by the folks who changed it for you.

If they say its the tensioner, ask them to obtain one from Honda. It WILL be more expensive.

+++++++++++

On our Fit, we needed a serpentine belt tensioner quickly, so bought one that was in-stock from an auto parts store. We needed to re-assemble it (with additional spacer washers on the pulley shaft) to make it align and rotate to our satisfaction.
:angryfire

 

Thanks carbuff2. The OEM is twice the price of the gates tensioner. I would get the same folks to install but they want $75 to “diagnose” the replacement. The surprising thing is that the mechanics use the gates tensioner themselves. So I don’t think I am going to use them again which is a shame as they were convenient but not competent.

Online the videos show the main process of the replacement show it’s a question of getting space to get to the three bolts. If you remove the pulley and access the third more recessed bolt does this compromise the pulley? The access via the wheel well is no good as I cannot get past the frame.

 

The service manual shows the procedure as:

1. Remove drive belt

2. Remove power steering reservoir from bracket, then remove power steering pump (leaving hoses attached)

3. Remove tensioner pulley

4. Remove tensioner (3 bolts)

Reassemble in reverse order, with tensioner bolts 16 lb/ft torque and pulley 41 lb/ft torque, and power steering pump bolts 16 lb/ft.

I am replacing the pulley on mine hopefully in the next day or two (I leave on a road trip this Sunday). I will have to see how much room I get once the belt and power steering pump are out of the way. With a combination of sockets, I think there should be room to get the tensioner out once the pulley is removed. If I had more time, I would not be against removing that engine mount--it's really not too difficult, but the engine needs to be supported from underneath. (A jack and a long board to span the oil pan are all that is needed.)

Getting the tension off of the belt to remove it, and removing that pulley bolt, are going to be the worst of it. Cannot get a standard socket and ratchet on the pulley bolt--there is not enough room with the engine mount in the way. I will be trying a low profile (aka "stubby") socket to see if I can gain enough space to do this.

 

Hi Wildcat,

When you took the pulley off was the wear pattern even on it, or were there indentations in the pattern?

 

+1 for removing pulley. That’s the way to do it. Discovered my Gates tensioner was never installed. Instead an old reconditioned Honda tensioner was placed in.

Anyway with the OEM tensioner finally the engine is quiet with only the minimal noise!

Sorry Gates. I am sure they are great tensioners (and half the price) as mine was pocketed by the thieving mechanic. Definelty recommend replacing these if you hear the rattle noise.

 

Just as reminder. Check the belt installation also by making sure it’s aligned. I have had the last pulley show uneven wear due to the bad install.

 

Per request this topic is active

 

@Wildcat you replaced yours about the same time. My replacement done at a local garage was an OEM Honda has failed again this fall. It’s consistently filing during fall when the weather gets cold. This time it rattles also as I accelerate gently.

 

Fish,

As I listened to the noise this time there is more noise as I accelerate than when idling which was the case the previous time.

I am only guessing this is the pulley versus the tensioner of the belt tensioner. Is there a way you would know to test for either or both or the pulley at least?

 

You might want to look at this.

2005 damaged crankshaft

Our sister's '05 automatic with 150K miles had a noise that sounded to her husband like a serpentine belt idler or tensioner. It wasn't, and the noise wasn't the water pump or alternator, either. It turned out to be a damaged crankshaft pulley (see pictures). The woodruff key wore in its slot...

www.crvownersclub.com

 

Thanks @Carbuff2 when the crank pulley broke as there a constant knock? Also was there oil loss?

edit: I had taken a screwdriver to the tensioner and it was noisier than the other alternator and power steering. I cannot get to the crank from the top.

 

Just a hunch on my part, but if the crankshaft pulley broke, your belt would be so slack as to be useless. You might be able to remove your belt without even loosening any other piece of equipment.

A loose crankshaft pulley could also be at fault for the uneven wear on your belt.

When you take the belt off, try to move the crankshaft pulley by hand. If you can, the woodruff key is not doing its job. Probably worn / loose. If it had fallen out, only the crankshaft bolt would be holding the pulley to the crank.

In this video, the woodruff key is the small rectangular pin you see at about the 4:00 position when the pulley bolt is removed @ about 2:10.

 

I will try that. Right now no oil leak from the engine. I had noticed a small leak which I fixed that came from the engine crankcase bolt on the side above oil pressure sensor.

Also tension is ok just the rattle under load when in gear and also when accelerating slowly.

 

When is the last time your serp belt was replaced? It doesn't take much belt stretch to cause the tensioner to rattle off the travel stop.

 

Slvr7 it was 3 years ago October 2017. The tensioner was replaced then but was replaced again in September 2018. The belt I think could do with a replacement, it was worn but I could not see uneven wear.

I checked the crankshaft pulley and woodruff key and those did not make noise. Of course I did not run the engine with the belt off but slow movement did not show anything to my naive ear.

the tensioner is moving slightly not as much as it did in 2017 so I think it’s failed again. I don’t understand why this part is the Achilles heel. How do attach videos to the post?

edit: I don’t know how to add the video but the vibration I see is similar to the video here

 

Since you no longer have a Honda tensioner, the window and arrow aren't there to judge. However with an oem tensioner, it takes very little belt stretch to cause the tensioner rattle of the travel limiter. Non oem belts seem to stretch rather quickly as well.

 

I was told that the one installed was OEM Honda, I chose that over the non Honda one despite the shorter warranty of one year over 2 for the non OEM one. (the serpentine belt currently in the car is a bando which I thought is the OEM version?)

given that what arrow would I be looking for on the serpentine belt? I know the timing chain has the alignment arrows for the cylinder timing.

 

 

thank you! Here is mine

 

Right of the bar the Belt needs replacement. I am going to try that. Start from the bottom? do I need a tensioner belt tool or use a wrench?

 

I use a tensioner tool, and it probably will take an assistant to help you. I put to balancer on last.

 

Thanks, I think it makes sense to use the tool from the bottom. Which belt brand or is that not a factor?

 

I personally only use oem belts.

 

Aside from the need for a polish the tension looks fine...identical to Slvr7s picture above.

 

Carbuff, knocking me off my balancer!

is that not slvr7 before picture to show the replacement required?

 

Once the pointer gets more then about half way through the short section, many times, the tensioner will rattle.

 

Edit: ignore the comment below. The L is there albeit tarnished. Carbuff is right I need to polish the engine. Getting the steel wool and soap now.

ordered the belt and will update after trying that.
——-
This would have saved me a lot of headache 3 years ago. I don’t see that small section the one labeled “B”. I am now under the impression I got a non OEM part.

in your picture of the tensioner the belt is not on, does that position move when the belt is on?

The belt took care of the noise. It seems even gates or dayco tensioner a have the L market on it. I noticed my belt had some residue most likely from the oil leak from the bolt from the crankcase.

Slvr7 thanks for the tips!

Also wanted to add ac Delco sells the oem tensioner with the litens stamp, l shaped window for tension exact OEM version for roughly half.

The Other post for the 3rd gen serpentine belt was archived. The video linked shows generally how to remove the belt but I found using the gearwrench for a novice tool to be easier that the coupled wrench. Or you can get the tool in this picture.

Used an ACDelco 7K685 Professional V-Ribbed Serpentine Belt length 1758 mm 5.1 mm thick versus the bando 1750 mm 4.5 mm ( the bando sourcing on Amazon is a problem, third party bando stretched to 1757 mm after a year, if you can get ahipped and sold by Amazon that’s better) once you get the belt over the pulleys i found that it’s easier to loosen from the top with one hand and then pull the belt over the crankshaft balancer. Before the indicator looks like this :

then moves back to align exactly: