My 2010 has 170,000km and changed the tie rod ends on front end. Ball joints may be worn slightly.

 

for me and someone else I know.. gen 3

front tyres wear quickly
rear diff drain and refil way to quickly compared to how long it should last
front suspension rubber covers tear quickly

 

On my '07 AWD EX-L so far (@93k):

1. Front passenger door lock actuator bad. Replaced.
2. Front struts replaced at 65k, leaking.
3. Leather door and seat armrest covers tattered, replaced covers.
4. A/C just over a pound low on Freon at 92k, recharged and working fine now. Not bad after 12 years, as the system only holds about two pounds. It was still cooling a little, but is ice cold now.
5. Brake pads done at 85k.
6. Driver's Outside Mirror Housing broken on first trip to grocery store. Have part, not fixed yet.

That's it! So far, so good.

 

I have only owned y 2010 EX-L 2wd for 7 months now and here is what I have replaced:

- front outer tire rod ends
- serpentine belt and tensioner( in all fairness the belt had been replaced before and was still good, but the tensioner had not, but I just replaced them as a pair)
- The torque arm engine mounts(they werent broken, but when I bought the car I could feel the motor shift when accelerating or decelerating, so I just replaced them both and its not an issue now)
- Entire suspension this weekend. (rears leaking, fronts are not but really worn out. Im replacing everything and sway bar end links. Went with Sachs strut and H&R springs since its my DD.)
- Spark plugs
- Engine air filter
- All the rear light bulbs(because 2 went out and I just decided to do them all at once while I was in there. Tested LED's and they weren't very good, went back to incandescent bulbs)

 

2007 EX (2 wheel drive) with low mileage 58K (built in Japan). Not much has actually failed or been repaired (if you don't count the brake lights). The LCD info display (between tack and speedometer) started randomly flickering about four years ago. It never got worse, not worth fixing.

Both Takata air bags replaced free under recall. Both brake light bulbs have been replaced. Original tires replaced at around 30K.

All required maintenance performed regularly.

 

2008 EXL AWD. 186K. Japan built. Problems to this point. Failed AC Compressor around 65K. Door actuators failed around 85K. Three replaced by Honda, fourth one replaced by me last year (170K). Interior arm rests (door and on seat) deteriorating. Will replace the door arm rest cover in the spring when it is a bit warmer. Had an issue with one of the rear brake calipers seizing up at 180K. Replaced rotors, one caliper and pads on rear. Airbags replaced for Takata recall. Had to restore/reseal headlight lenses. Finally if you are in an area that uses road salt, be prepared for your heat shield around your cat to rust free and dangle by the O2 sensor making a racket as you drive. Unplug the sensor and slip the bottom cover off or use a couple of screw clamps to clamp back in place.

Other than normal wear and tear items (struts, fluids, brakes, tires, bushings, accessory belt, battery, plugs) It has been a solid vehicle for us.

 

Would be interested in how you plan to replace the armrests as mine are bone thin when it comes to padding. Makes road trips way less comfortable.

 

The replacement covers I got off eBay are made of heavier, nicer leather, and are designed to be installed over the old covers without removal, which should give more padding. I haven't done it yet, so I can't report, but I've read some reports that said it was better. Personally I hate the flip down armrests, and I also hate the worthless center console, so I am working on a plan to choose a center console from another vehicle and adapt it to fit. Right now I'm looking at the Acura ones, which have a nice large and wide single padded center armrest and no seat mounted ones. I much prefer that type of center armrest. I will do a thread on it when I do it in the Spring. Meanwhile I have a lot of measuring to do.

 

2010 CR-V built in Swindon, UK:
My dealer workshop said that the risk of stuck rear brakes, wellknown for Gen 2, also exists on Gen 3. Risk increases with too little use of rear brakes, i.e., too little heavy breaking.

The major sign of stuck brakes is hot wheels.

 

What's a good fix for this? I assume just replacing the rear calipers?

 

I found replacements on Amazon for both the seat attached armrest and the door armrest. The seat one slides over and fits snugly. The door armrest will require me to remove the door card (four screws) and disconnect the power door locks, mirror control. After that there are a whole bunch of screws that come out to remove the armrest. Did some investigation when I had the door torn apart to replace the lock actuator a few months back. Waiting on spring break when my son brings the V home from school. I'll do a writeup and post it here of the process.

 

You will also need to check and see if the piston can be pushed back in to the caliper. I could not do it on mine so the assembly needed replaced. Make sure you check your rotor for wear as well. If badly scored or you can't get them turned and leave enough meat on them you will need to replace rotors on both sides. If you are having pistons sieze up, you should probably do a brake fluid flush as well.

 

hi, anyone has any experience with malaysian built g3 crv here?

 

We have two '09s, and am finding common problems on both.

A/C compressor WILL go bad. Both of ours did within nine months of each other, at about the same mileage. Usually it's the clutch, but I had the entire compressors replaced with remanufactured Honda units by the dealer, so something else doesn't go bad.

Just did a starter in the blue CR-V. Mine I'm going to do once the weather warms up--it has always turned over more slowly than the blue, and when it was near zero, it barely cranked at all. Battery's fine.

@canyon and @spotpup mention the rear brakes. Yep! Both of ours have failed. Mine had the left rear seize up on a weekend road trip while driving, making a weird howling noise. Wheel was almost hot. Ended up replacing the brake pads and the hardware. The blue CR-V was making an odd humming from, yep, the left rear. Turns out one of the boots on the caliper got ripped somehow (effing Michigan roads :rolleyes2: ), and I'm out in the driveway in 18 degree weather, unseizing the pin, replacing with a new one and a new boot, all while snow is falling on me.

The front armrests are sh*t. My driver's side was somehow repaired rather nicely, now the passenger's side is puckering. In the blue CR-V, the fronts were very poorly repaired; I'm having to replace those so it doesn't look like a junker. (Aftermarket replacements are available--I just hope the colors match.)

Struts in both. Within a week of each other. All I could find were the better Monroe QuickStruts. Rides nice but that damn hardware is starting to make noise already.

Two door lock actuators in the blue CR-V have failed. Replaced one (driver's front), bought a passenger front actuator but it turns out the rear passenger actuator was the other noisy one, so I have that to fix.

Belt tensioner in mine is noisy.

Valves in mine are noisier after valve lash adjustment, triple-checked after each adjustment I might add. (I've done this before.) The blue CR-V is nice and quiet.

Oil level in mine rarely drops at all--I've never had to add any between oil changes. The blue CR-V uses a little more, but only one minor touch-up between oil changes is needed. Rear dual pump fluid has been changed in mine, but not in the blue yet.

Had to replace that evap solenoid to get rid of the gas cap error message on the dash. Got a spare for the blue CR-V when that one craps out. Which it will.

 

My 2010 has 170,000km and changed the tie rod ends on front end. Ball joints may be worn slightly.