14mm. In the following diagram, the plug is part 16, the washer part 23.

https://estore.honda.com/honda/part...arts-catalog-detail.asp?m=2017-cr-v-5-exl-2wd-e-liberty-cvt&sn=&b=E++14&dl=#018

 

I've reused the crush washer continuously on the previous Accords and still current Ody and never had a drip of oil occur. Sure I have new ones on hand just in case.

Don't forget to torque your lug nuts correctly too! Really.

 

Pretty sure it’s the one that comes attached to Honda oil filters or they are 50 cent each.

 

Crush washers seal the oil drain hole and are not part of the oil filter. Oil filters have their own rubberized seal built in.

 

@ Rocky The crush washer is taped on the genuine Honda filter... yes I know what a crush washer is....

@bob those fumoto valve are awesome as long as you don’t live in area where they salt the road like crazy. Then it takes some time with a wire brush to get all the funk out of the lever area

 

Actually Crush washers do not come with, they are added with the filter bring your old one with you, and then tel lthem after you get the wrong one in hand.

 

These are how they come at my local dealer. Does yours not come like this?

 

View attachment 110457

These are how they come at my local dealer. Does yours not come like this?

That's not how they come at my dealer. I buy the A01 filter and have to buy the crush washer separate. So, I ordered a pk of 20 online and called it good since I have 2 Honda's that use the same filter and washer.

 

Wow. I’ve never seen the crush washer packaged with the filter. Only seen the in a multi part packet.

 

Why do people replace crush washers every oil change or close to that? I dont get it. 16 yrs in the industry, own 3 hondas. I have a spare crush washer for each in case I loose one or they really start to look bad. But there is 100% zero need to change them that often. Nothing but something to charge $5 for at the dealership.

All my years, odyssey at 125k, still the same crush washer, not 1 drip. CRV with 210K it was looking bad and probably not sealing well anymore so I changed it. Accord, 173k and unless it was replaced by the previous owner a long time ago, still the original and not a drop.

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People replace it because it's called a "crush" washer. After you use it once, it's just a washer.

Crush washers are used because with a plain metal seal (or pre-crushed crush washer), you need much higher torque for the same sealing ability. Reduced sealing torque is a useful thing with aluminum oil pans.

 

I get them at cost since I know people that work at Honda and they give me the homie hook up.

 

Thank you very much, I got the right one then.

 

I read through this post in hopes that it would list all of the crush washer sizes for the 2017 CR-V 1.5L engine. It does not.

I've learned that some folks must feel that replacing a crush washer will destroy the originality of the vehicle and the factory installed crush washer should be used for the life of the car. I am on the other side of the divide, I want to replace mine every time a filler or drain plug is opened. To that end, I want to buy a bag of every size that I will need when performing routine maintenance.

My challenged search skills have failed to turn up what I believe to be an accurate and definitive listing. Below is what I have found, but I cannot say with any certainty that this is an accurate list.

Please let me know if it is incorrect or incomplete. Thanks.

2017 Honda CR-V 1.5L AWD Crush Washer Sizes
Oil Pan Drain Bolt -- 14mm
CVT Check Bolt -- 12mm
CVT Drain Bolt -- 18mm
Rear Diff Drain Bolt -- 18mm
Rear Diff Fill Plug -- 20mm

 

2017 Honda CR-V 1.5L AWD Crush Washer Sizes
Oil Pan Drain Bolt -- 14mm
CVT Check Bolt -- 12mm
CVT Drain Bolt -- 18mm
Rear Diff Drain Bolt -- 18mm
Rear Diff Fill Plug -- 20mm

Now that we all have the "to use or not to use a crush washer" thing off our chests, did I get the sizes listed correctly?

 

Has nothing g to do with keeping vehicles original, has everything to do with it's a complete waste of time and money to replace them every time you service. It isn't till much later in a vehicles life the seal they create could become compromised due to wear.

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My comment was tongue in cheek. I'm sorry, I did not mean to be so cavalier about such an important thing.

What is a waste of time and money is to take the car back to the dealership for an engine and differential oil change and be charged $160.98 (rotated the tires too, I think). In that light, a 35 cent crush washer is cheap insurance against oil leaks sullying my pristine driveway and garage floor, which is my unwavering passion.

 

I didn't mean to come accross as rude, but your actually just as likely (if not more so to start with) to get a leak from a new crush washer. That's why I say it's a big waste of time. Will be an even bigger problem the first time you forget to put a new one on after taking the old on off.

Not saying it's wrong to do at all, just a fair bit pointless.

Seems that you are planning on doing the services yourself? That's where the mess comes in, couple drops will hit the driveway or you accidently spill a little. Happens to all of us.

And $160 for an oil change at our dealership, you need a new dealership because that's beyond insane. I can't blame your for trying to sort everything out yourself.

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I didn't mean to come accross as rude, but your actually just as likely (if not more so to start with) to get a leak from a new crush washer. That's why I say it's a big waste of time. Will be an even bigger problem the first time you forget to put a new one on after taking the old on off.

Why do you think that a leak is just as likely with a new crush washer if you never use one?

The point of the crush washer isn't really leak prevention. It's to reduce the torque necessary to get a good seal with the oil pan. You can certainly torque the plug tighter to make up for the fact that the crush washer ain't crushing no more (it's not a crush washer at that point, just a washer), but it makes it more likely that the threads in the oil pan will eventually strip.

 

I apologize. A comment that I think to be funny can come across as sarcastic. After reading this thread I thought such strong opinions on something as pedestrian as a crush washer was humorous, which is why I made the comment that I did.

Above is the crush washer I took off of the drain plug when I changed the oil. The ridge on the right side is a bit wider than the ridge on the left side. If the washer is not exactly the in the same position when reinstalled will it seal properly? What if I did not notice and put the ridge under the head of the drain plug? Would it seal properly? Now that it is crushed, to what torque is it tightened? If all of the microscopic hills and valleys on the drain plug, oil pan, and crush washer don't line up exactly, will it reseal properly? I don't know the answer to any of those questions. They are all irrelevant if I put on a new crush washer and for $0.35 it is worth it to me not to consider any of them.

Could a new crush washer leak? Absolutely. But which is less likely to leak, a new one or an old one? For me I think the new washer is less likely to leak. That is just my opinion, and whatever anyone decides is right for their car is just as valid for them as what I think is right for mine.

And off topic, it is insane what the dealership charged. And even more insane is that I never checked the oil level until after driving more that 3,000 miles over the winter. I mean, why check the oil, it is a Honda, right? Well, I was proven wrong again. The oil was way high, which I never expected. I took out 32 ounces of oil just to bring the oil level down to the highest mark on the dipstick. So did the dealership overfill the crankcase or do I have the infamous oil dilution problem? I went back to the dealership and they said that they never heard of the problem. For now I know two things, the proper amount of oil was used to refill the crankcase, and I will not go back to that dealership for service.

 

Ya exactly. I dont have strong opinions, just see it as an extra hassle I dont need lol.

I was also trying to crack a joke about the driveway thing lol.

As for the matter of the ridge, I never remove the washers when I remove the drain plug so that part isnt of concern. And it will line itself up as you tighten.

I get the point behind them and understand y some are so set on replacing everytime. Go for it. I just kind of chuckle when people do it every oil change, though only 0.35 I see at as annoying extra step, but that's me[emoji39]

As for the over full oil... ya I would think your seeing the complaint that's known, oil dilution. And dealership saying they haven't heard of it is BS. It's a known problem.



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Can anyone tell me which crush washer in the picture is 150K miles old (about 35 oil changes)?? :Naughty:

As others have said, I replace mine only if needed (if I see a drop of oil underneath when I get under the car). :wrenchin: I don't like to waste 35 cents (although, I have heard of stealerships charging $1.25 for crush washers!)

 

My guess is the one on the right is the "old" one.

 

My dealer charges $33.12 for an oil and filter change and that includes washing and vacuuming the car. For that price, I'm not about to crawl under the car, haul the used oil off, worry about the fasteners on the under tray, or whether or not to change the crush washer.

 

For that price he is not putting in 0-20w synthetic oil. Any problems I had with any auto work was work done by the dealer and not by myself. Trusting the dealer to do everything just right is idiotic.